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When it comes to Kindred, you can forget your preconceived notions of vegan restaurants. The South Park spot features killer cocktails, filling food, and an edgy design, complete with a coffered ceiling, a white-marble bar, and a demon-wolf-head sculpture mounted on the wall. Pair the refreshing Place of Certainty (vodka, elderflower, Aperol, lemon, Thai basil, winter melon bitters, and cucumber) with Kindred’s take on the charcuterie board (smoked golden beets, kale pesto, and red-chili-and-orange-fennel seitan), or order something more substantial, like the beet risotto or the seared cauliflower steak with squash puree and steak sauce. The restaurant also offers an excellent weekend brunch with everything from cinnamon rolls and banana bread French toast to pancakes with bourbon butterscotch.

For some travelers, what comes to mind first when they think of Japan is tales of samurai and shoguns, centuries-old temples, and the tea ceremony and kabuki. For others, however, what makes the country most exciting is its contemporary art, fashion, and architecture. The National Art Center should be at the top of the list for anyone with an affinity for the latter. Designed by one of Japan‘s most interesting contemporary architects, Kisho Kurokawa, it is among the country’s largest exhibition spaces. There’s no permanent collection, but temporary exhibitions cover a variety of mediums and topics—photography, manga and anime, architecture, and fashion, among others. The exhibitions aren’t always limited to works by Japanese creators, with international museums lending pieces as well. If you are looking for gifts to take back home, the Souvenir from Tokyo shop in the basement has a delightful selection of Japanese products, both whimsical and elegant.

The Black Rose is reliable in every way: It’s a genuine Irish pub in a part of Boston where authentic can be hard to find among the tourist joints; the bar food is first-rate (you can’t go wrong with a pint of Guinness and the house-made corned beef on marble rye, hold the mustard); and there’s live music seven nights a week. Located across the street from the historic Custom House and close to Faneuil Hall, the Black Rose has thrived for 40 years by keeping it real, and you’ll find a lively crowd of locals and visitors here even on wintry weeknights to drink Irish beer poured by Irish bartenders and listen to Irish music.

Fish from tins, fish whose fins were in the sea just this morning—they’re all stars at Saltie Girl, a compact seafood bar and restaurant in the Back Bay from Kathy Sidell of MET restaurant fame. Whether you love your seafood raw, smoked, fried, or—yes—out of a can, settle into one of the 11 stools in front of the active kitchen to watch as your dinner is prepared or, well, opened. Of course, you’re not paying top dollar for Chicken of the Sea here: The tinned seafood comes from small artisan producers, sustainably sourced, packed fresh, and shipped from around the world. Caviar, squid, anchovies, cod liver, and cockles are among the savories served cold with dipping sauces and crusty bread.

When Mozart was a child, he performed here for Empress Maria Theresa; Franz Joseph I was born and died here, and his unhappy wife, Sisi, presumably sulked inside. Schönbrunn Palace, in the western Hietzing district, naturally invites comparisons to Versailles, as the Hapsburgs built it to rival the French palace. Today, the 1,441-room baroque masterpiece designed by Fischer von Erlach is a World Heritage site, with its Great Gallery and carriage museum among the draws. Its gardens are so vast that a small train takes you around to the palm house, an orangery, and a zoo. The recently renovated, columned Gloriette structure and its café look over the palace and, beyond, Vienna. Schönbrunn’s grandeur never ceases to impress—not bad considering that the palace was only a summer retreat for the Hapsburg rulers.

The Ravoux Inn (also known as the Maison de Van Gogh) is located in the town of Auvers-sur-Oise, just north of Paris. When Vincent van Gogh lived there for just 3.50 francs a day, Auvers-sur-Oise was already a picturesque village attracting impressionist artists. He spent the last months of his life here, and prolifically and feverishly produced more than 80 paintings in just 70 days. Today there’s a walk [link] around town, with signs showing reproductions of many of his final paintings right in front of the still existing subject matters (churches, walkways, landscapes, etc). The Ravoux Inn has kept its original feel, and and although its a short visit (including a brief film), it’s fascinating to find yourself in Mr. Vincent’s room (as he was known to the inn keepers). OPEN (2017): March 1st – October 29th Wed – Sun 10am - 6pm FEES Adults: - 6€ (no preferential rate) - 4€ (handicapped) Children: - 12 to 17 years: 4€ - Under 12: free Lunch and dinner is served as well, from 1st March to 26 November: Lunch: Wednesday – Sunday: 12:00pm to 14:15pm Dinner: Fridays and Saturdays only 7:30 to 9:00pm >>>Warm thanks to my lovely friends at AmaWaterways for an unforgettable river cruise on the Seine from Paris to Normandy. My visit to Auvers–sur–Oise and the Maison de Van Gogh was one of many excursions available daily at no additional cost. Great concept, AmaWaterways!

The cathedral, usually called the Duomo, is Florence’s most recognizable building. You are able to catch glimpses of its magnificent red-tiled cupola from just about anywhere in the city center. Construction on the church complex began in 1296 and the work—Brunelleschi’s dome and his Baptistery, and Giotto’s bell tower—was completed in 1426. The interior of this architectural is reserved in contrast with the exterior’s marble Gothic facade and its green, pink, and white stripes. Climb the 463 steps up into the dome for a close-up look at Giorgio Vasari’s fresco, The Last Judgment, and a bird’s-eye view of the city.

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes. ~ Marcel Proust. For my inaugural highlight on AFAR, I am starting with my wife’s favorite quote, and a local sight in Chicago. Sometimes people feel they must jet off to some far off exotic place in order to ‘travel.’ However, if you gaze anew at your immediate surroundings with fresh eyes, you will discover an entire host of wonderful surprises. Here we have Cloud Gate, located down in Millennium Park, back before they buffed out the seams. The contrast between the organic form of ‘the bean’ and the structured grid lines, along with the warped fun house mirror quality of the city, makes this a truly unique destination.

On Sandoval Street, this warmly lit gourmet spot from chefs Mark Connell and Arthur Martel (Arroyo Vino) provides a welcome detour from the standard New Mexican fine-dining route. In a reconsideration of the traditional dim sum cart, shareable dishes—plated on pretty, Instagram-worthy ceramics, are presented to diners. Offerings change seasonally and often include creations like suckling pig wontons or cassoulet with rabbit sausage as well as veggie-focused items like parsnip risotto with thyme and maple, and English pea and stone fruit salad with a goat cheese sorbet. There’s also a stellar wine list.

Formerly the residence of the Maharajah of Jaipur, and now one of Jaipur’s most elegant luxury hotels, the 19th-century Rambagh Palace has had a front-row seat to history—and has hosted a long list of royals, dignitaries, and celebrities along the way. As an homage to those regal roots, the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant spotlights the cuisine of four of India’s former princely states: Rajasthan, Awadh, Punjab, and Hyderabad. In what used to be the palace’s banquet hall—still dripping with gilded mirrors and Italian frescos—enjoy dishes like laal maas (a Rajasthani spicy lamb curry), chicken cooked with raw mango and saffron, skillet-grilled lobster, and apricot-stuffed cheese dumplings simmered in tomato gravy. Cap off the night with a drink in the nearby Polo Bar, which serves fine spirits and cocktails inspired by the royal equestrian sport.

The Altar of Peace, also known by its ancient name, Ara Pacis, is a 1st century BC monument embellished with marble reliefs. The structure’s carved stone surfaces depict religious processions and allegories, all of which glorify the family and virtues of the Emperor Augustus. Inaugurated in 9BC, the altar was a destination for ritual and sacrifice for four centuries, after which time it was neglected and ultimately buried by deposit left by Tiber floods. Its rediscovery took centuries and culminated in a Fascist-era excavation, followed by the repositioning of the monument in its current location beside the Tiber River. In 2006, American architect Richard Meier completed the Museo dell’Ara Pacis, the glass and limestone building that houses the Altar, as well as numerous exhibition spaces.

The dishes are as gorgeous as the environs at this Lincoln Park eatery, where chef and partner Lee Wolen serves contemporary American fare by way of seasonally driven and artfully composed plates. Grilled bass with charred eggplant and cucumber or slow-roasted-beef short ribs with gem lettuce and sweetbreads are just a few displays of the award-winning chef’s creativity—but he shares the stage with pastry chef Meg Galus, who centers her masterful desserts around one main ingredient of the season (like summer’s Blackberry, with huckleberry, black sesame, and crème fraîche, or autumn’s Pear with wattleseed, pistachio, and buckwheat).

Since bursting on to the scene in 2013, this Chippendale hotspot has multiplied its loyal fans along with its awards—chef Mat Lindsay was even named Australian Gourmet Traveller’s 2018 Chef of the Year. Surrounded by stucco archways and strung with pendant lights, the dining room provides a subtle backdrop to dishes that are rustic yet refreshing. The wood-fired oven is put to good use, sometimes in surprising ways, like for charring cauliflower or lightly roasting rock oysters to warm, gooey perfection. There are also beautifully baked meats and breads, and a baby blood sausage “sanga” for those craving comfort food. For dessert, order the burnt pavlova, a classic meringue that takes a trip through the flames before being dusted in elderflowers.

Blackbird is a charming pub with oodles of traditional atmosphere in the quiet fishing village of Ballycotton in East Cork. Its secret is the Field Kitchen, a trailer that was lowered into the rear beer garden, which supplies fish and chips, garlic mussels, and monkfish scampi to accompany your pint. The beer garden overlooks the stone ruins of Ballycotton village, and inside, the bar is lit by candles in Jameson bottles, as the pub is very near the home of Jameson Distillery in Midleton.

Known to New Zealand’s indigenous Maori people as pounamu, jade or greenstone is treasured throughout the country, and in the North Island city of Rotorua, Rakai Jade provides travelers with the opportunity to craft a special memento of their visit. Working with local Maori artisans, a one-day Carve Your Own experience takes you through the full process from initial design to final product. Popular traditional varieties include pendants and stylized fishhooks, but if you can’t spare the time for a custom bauble, many excellent already-carved pieces are also available. (Reserving at least one day ahead is recommended for a design-and-carving session.)