Search results for

Since its founding in 1893, the Hassler has been a pillar of luxury accommodation in Rome. This five-star hotel is perched theatrically atop Trinità dei Monti, the hill at the apex of the Spanish Steps, providing dazzling vistas over Rome’s rooftop terraces and church domes. More than a century after opening, the hotel remains privately owned. Generations dedicated to carefully cultivating a loyal clientele have made the Hassler the destination of choice for many royal and celebrity visitors to Rome. Accordingly, the staff is well-equipped to fulfill every imaginable whim and desire, regardless of how outlandish.

The formal service and decor hark back to the last days of the Grand Tour when European and American elite converged on Rome for its cultural—and couture—offerings, a tradition that still thrives in places like this. The Hassler oozes Old World charm, and its nearly 100 rooms are clad in marble, embellished with antiques, and accented with gilded furnishings, a reminder of the city’s late 19^th-century splendor. The common areas are similarly lavish and offer palatial settings for meetings, cocktails, and lounging.

Just across the Piazza Trinità dei Monti, the Hassler’s second property, Il Palazzetto, offers accommodations with a lot less gilding but no less class.

The government said the cliffs of Calcata, a medieval hill town 30 miles north of Rome, where crumbling and the residents would have to abandon the village for a new one a half mile away. They were right. Sort of. There was a government policy, created during the Fascist era, that stated any village that was so decrepit it was dangerous, the government would destroy it and build a new town nearby. The residents of this cramped hill town, tired of the poor living conditions, took advantage of this law. By the 1960s, the new town, Calcata Nuova, was ready and the old residents slowly moved. At the same time, hippies and artists discovered this slowly abandoned village and bought up the houses, knowing the village was to be condemned. They eventually had the law reversed, saving the village, and went on to fix up Calcata. Today home prices have soared and it’s become one of the most beautiful (and bizarre) places in Italy.

Why we love it: An apartment-style hotel designed by acclaimed architect Jean Nouvel

The Highlights:
- Individually decorated rooms with modern appliances created for longer stays
- A thoughtful mix of modern and historic design elements
- A rooftop lounge that looks out over the Roman Forum

The Review:
When the Fondazione Alda Fendi-Esperimenti acquired the Palazzo Rhinoceros—a 17th-century palace near the Roman Forum—and handed renovations over to Jean Nouvel, something special was bound to happen. The renowned French architect transformed the historic palace a stone’s throw from Rome’s birthplace on Palatine Hill into a 24-apartment sanctuary for guests staying anywhere from one night to one year.

The apartments—which all have kitchens designed for longer stays—each have their own unique layout with sliding steel walls so you can close off the living room from the bedroom, or create one massive space. Even though the use of steel materials and contemporary furnishings makes for a thoroughly modern atmosphere, Nouvel kept some old paint intact and installed window panels with photographs of the space before renovations to help tie the property to its historic location. For the best views in the building, head to the six-floor terrace, where you can take in the sunset over the Roman Forum with a cocktail in hand.

There are dozens of markets throughout Rome, and while many are threatened by the popularity of supermarkets, the Mercato Trionfale thrives just north of the Vatican. Some 200 stalls sell produce, cheese, eggs, meat, honey, fish, and housewares of a quality that’s hard to replicate. Enter from Via Andrea Doria and explore the butchers’ stalls, then head to the back where Rome’s largest number of fish stalls are clustered next to farmers selling fresh-picked produce.

From the morning’s first jolt of espresso through the evening’s final sip of Tuscan wine, your tastebuds will be happy and engaged the whole time you’re in Florence. You’ve come to a city where cooking pasta is a fine art and where lunch at a tripe stand can be followed by the creamiest gelato you’ve ever tasted. Let others stand in line to see Michelangelo’s David—you’ve got another meal to eat.

Just a short walk from the Vatican Museums, La Tradizione sells more than 400 cheeses, which are carefully selected and, when appropriate, aged. This gourmet shop is hands-down the best place in town to shop for fermented dairy, as well as cured meats, prepared foods, and other gourmet products. To get there, take the Metro A to Cipro. La Tradizione is across the street from the Metro stop. And while you are there, pop over to Pizzarium, which is only 200 yards away.

Panificio Bonci, which opened in November 2012, is legendary baker Gabriele Bonci’s bread bakery. Located in the Trionfale district—not far from Bonci’s famous pizza-by-the-slice joint, Pizzarium—the bakery sells loaves, sandwiches, and a handful of pasta varieties. There is also pizza by the slice (though a more conventional variety than you will find at Pizzarium) and pastries. Perhaps the greatest menu item, however, is pizza con la porchetta, a flatbread sandwich filled with slices of moist roasted pork and its crispy skin.

Cesare al Casaletto is far off the well-beaten tourist track, but it is easy to get to: just take the 8 tram from Piazza Venezia or Largo Argentina and get off at the very last stop. Fifty yards from the tram tracks sits Rome‘s best trattoria, where spectacular fried appetizers (get them all, or at least the gnocchi fritti and polpette di bollito) give way to classic pasta dishes like carbonara and gricia. The second courses are excellent and fall-off-the-tailbone braised oxtail is a favorite. Pair it all with fairly priced natural wines from all over Italy and be sure to leave room for dessert, preferably the panna cotta.

The D.O.M., which opened in late 2013, is a five-star boutique hotel in the heart of Rome’s historic center. Originally built as a 17^th-century noble palace, the property was subsequently converted into a monastery, then Ministry of Justice offices. Its current design, which blends architectural elements from its previous uses, was entrusted to architect Antonio Girardi, who has seamlessly married Renaissance reverence and modern design.

Thanks to the previous ecclesiastical incarnation, rooms are intimate and many have low ceilings. Dark gray and brown hues mingle with velveteen, brick, and wood, creating a cavernous feel in the ground-floor common areas, which contrast with the bright and open rooftop terrace and its views over Rome’s Renaissance quarter and across the river to Trastevere. On the ground floor, a small reception area precedes the hotel bar and restaurant, as well as a small enclosed terrace.

With a nod to the neighborhood’s tradition of carpentry, this furniture store sells chairs, tables, bowls, and wall hooks made of Chilean lenga wood, crafted with clean, modern lines and smooth finishes. This appeared in the May 2014 issue.

In 1589, the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi became the official church of Rome’s French community, and with true Bourbon flair, the church’s decorations are a celebration of France’s power and wealth, with gilded stucco, lavish marbles, and detailed ornament. But it can feel as though no one is noticing, since visitors usually head directly to the Contarelli Chapel in the transept to the left of the main altar, where three incredible Caravaggio paintings reside: The Calling of Saint Matthew, The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew, and Saint Matthew and the Angel. Known as the Matthew Cycle, the beautifully detailed and dark oil paintings show off the best of the baroque painter.

There are now 35 locations of Eataly, the massive Italian food hall, around the world, with 18 of them in Italy itself. The New York City one at Fifth Avenue and 23rd Street, which opened in 2010, was the first in the United States (it’s been joined by others in Boston, Chicago, and Los Angeles, as well as by a second outpost in Manhattan, near the World Trade Center site at 101 Liberty Street). For connoisseurs of all things Italian, this is a must-visit—or, more accurately, a must-shop and must-eat stop. Covering more than 50,000 square feet, Eataly NYC Flatiron includes five different restaurants (plus occasional pop-ups) offering opportunities to graze on antipasti, fish, pizza, and other dishes. A popular rooftop beer hall is open all year round (thanks to space heaters and a retractable roof). While you will want to eat your gelato on the spot, there are also a number of stores where you can buy gifts from biscotti to olive oils to take home a little bit of Italy via New York.

Founder’s Note: Uncommon Travels

If you want to meet the kindest cheesemonger in Rome, visit Roberto at Antica Caciara in the ‘you-must-cross-the-Tiber’ Trastevere section of town. Stock up on Pecorino Romano (that amazing hard grating cheese used in the standard Roman fare Cacio/Pepe pasta) and sliced cured meats. And if you are still hungry, you can grab a bag of handmade pasta before Roberto kisses you ‘buonasera’.

At Sewall’s Point in the Harbour Bay Plaza on S.E. Ocean Blvd. (3720 ), you can dine in an authentic Italian restaurant on fresh, tasty fare. Renato’s has been in this location for 18 years pleasing their regular customers and many newcomers each year. This is a family owned restaurant that is run by Renato & Josephine Maira whose roots are Sicilian. Josephine makes sure to stop by each table and chat with the diners. She is friendly and cheerful. The staff is helpful and professional. The restaurant’s decor is all Italian from the authentic Sicilian hand painted donkey cart to the murals of different cities and towns in Italy. Family recipes from grandparents and parents are successfully used in Renato’s. The food is well prepared and tasty. Try the Antipasto Misto, Chicken Scarparello, or Linguine Vongole. Don’t forget expresso and desert. The wine list is excellent and extensive. There is outdoor patio seating as well as the indoor dining rooms. On Friday and Saturday evenings, Zoltan Racz entertains with international accordion music. Try Renato’s Italian Ristorante & Grill. You won’t be disappointed if you like authentic Italian food. Another plus: they accept reservations. (772) 219-9600