With a profusely sweating forehead, bright red face, and tears forming in the corner of his eyes, my guest continued to shovel chopsticks full of Crying Tiger Beef into his smiling mouth. The spicier the better at Jitlada, an authentic Southern Thai restaurant in an unassuming strip mall in Los Angeles’s Thai Town. To balance the heat, the Crispy Morning Glory Salad and Coco Mango Salad are just cool enough to give your mouth a reprieve. On the opposite end of the spectrum is the Kua Kling, a turmeric dry curry pork dish that is one of the hottest items on the menu. No matter your tolerance for heat: make sure to have a Lassi, a traditional yogurt-based drink, next to you at all times to soothe any unexpected (but always to be expected) burn.