The Fjellheisen cablecar in Tromsø, which takes you up Mount Floya, operates 24 hours in the summer, when the Arctic sunshine stays with you all night. Whether you're planning to hike or merely to stand and gaze at the view of the mountains, it's a lovely experience. We went up around midnight, just after a blood-red sun had 'set' behind the peaks. By the time the cable car had reached the top, the sun was visible again. Little patches of dirty snow sat in hollows around us, the town of Tromsø spread out below, and the mountain range disappeared invitingly behind (we didn't accept the invitation, but that wasn't the point...).