5 Best Places in France Without Summer Crowds

Rocky coast with people on little beach and in shallow water, plus several small boats offshore — Swap the Côte d’Azur for the Côte Bleue and calm bays like those of the Calanque of l’Erevine.

This article was originally published in 2018 and most recently updated on July 7, 2026, with current information.

Any idea how many international tourists visited France last year? 102 million. You read that right: 102 million people poured into a country whose population is 66.8 million and is smaller in land size than Texas. In 2025, France was the most visited country in the world.

Living in the South of France, I’ve seen this firsthand. I love visiting the towns and villages along the French Riviera, but they’re way too crowded in summer. Vacations shouldn’t be about competing for a dinner reservation or getting to the best viewpoint during a hike. With a little legwork (sometimes literally), you can visit places in France without the crush of other travelers.

In these five areas, including three coastal spots, you’ll find reasonably priced local wine, picturesque town squares, quiet stretches of beach, and a medieval castle. Here’s where to go to avoid the crowds in France this summer.

Instead of St. Malo . . . go to Perros-Guirec

Rear view of person in striped shirt on coast, with glass of white wine and looking at distant lighthouse (L); aerial view of small beach, with boulders and trees in foreground (R) — Perros-Guirec sits on the Côtes-d’Armor, which takes its name from the French word for “coast” and the Breton words for “by the sea” (*ar mor*) .

Between people coming on the ferries from England, day-trippers from Paris, and visitors staying the night to see Mont Saint Michel, St. Malo can get packed. Instead, head to the seafront town of Perros-Guirec on the same Brittany peninsula, but further west in the Côtes-d’Armor region. Here you’ll find striped shirts aplenty, tureens of mussels gathered only a few hundred feet away, rocky beaches, and pleasant temps that top out in the upper 70s.

What to do in Perros-Guirec

The town is proudly low-key, eschewing gimmicky attractions in favor of relaxed, refreshing ocean activities. You’ll find locals picnicking on the beach, sailing and kayaking, and taking in sea views along the Customs Officers’ Trail, a waterfront path cleared in 1791 to combat smuggling. For a unique day trip, take a boat around the Sept-Îles archipelago, four miles off the area’s Pink Granite Coast. The archipelago is known for its 27 bird species, among them puffins, and you may even see dolphins on the way. The boat stops at Île-aux-Moines, where you can meander the coastal paths down to a small park filled with rabbits.

Where to stay in Perros-Guirec

Opened in June 2025 in an early 20th-century stone villa, Les Bassans has 25 ocean-view rooms done up in beachy beige and white. Interiors feature light wooden furniture, ceramics, and tile from local artisans, and the hotel has an energy-monitoring system to reduce its consumption. Les Bassans is five minutes from the beach but, given how bracing the Atlantic is, you’ll be glad for the ocean-facing hot tub.

Instead of Biarritz . . . go to Hossegor

Long, wooden path with stairs and rails leading to beach and sea, with scrubby dunes on either side — Small grassy dunes lead down to Hossegor’s golden-sand beaches, where surfers try to catch waves and swimmers brace for the icy Atlantic.

The Atlantic coast of southwest France is a favorite of surfers who come to ride its big waves and then enjoy just-caught seafood and white wines from the Occitanie and Pyrenees regions. Surf-capital Biarritz can get jam-packed in summer, but 22 miles north is the smaller surf town of Hossegor. You’ll find waves for surfers, a placid lake for paddleboarding or swimming, a handful of restaurants where you can sip rosé and slurp oysters, and—as in all French towns—a few boulangeries selling baked treats.

What to do in Hossegor

There are a dozen surf schools where you can sign up to try your hand at riding the waves. For a water sport that requires less core strength, the Yacht Club Landais rents kayaks, paddleboards, and paddle boats and offers paddleboard yoga classes.

Where to stay: Les Hortensias du Lac

With its fragrant pines, white exterior with forest green trim, and wooden decks, the 1930s art deco villa that houses Les Hortensias du Lac suggests the northeastern USA more than southwest France. Its designers have certainly pulled inspiration from the States; the hotel’s owners describe its 25 rooms as having “a laid-back spirit similar to the Hamptons’ surf hotels.”

Instead of the Côte d’Azur . . . go to the Côte Bleue

Blue and turquoise bay, with several small boats and trees (L); arched stone bridge, with small white boats in foreground (R) — Hike from Niolon to Ensues-la-Redonne and you’ll pass gorgeous vistas and bobbing boats.

I’ll be the first to tell you: The vibe of the Côte Bleue is nothing like that of the Côte d’Azur. There are no see-and-be-seen restaurants, no buzzing nightlife, or seafood towers topped with sparklers. But if you’re after calm little bays where you can swim in the warm, azure waters of the Mediterranean without dodging elbows, take the train west from Marseille instead of east. Fifteen minutes later, the tracks curve along the dramatic 39-mile coastline, revealing the turquoise sea and rocky limestone cliffs known as the calanques. These cliffs run down to the sea, forming little inlets where you can swim.

Only residents are allowed to park near the beaches, so it’s best to take the train and be prepared to walk (15 minutes to an hour, depending on the path you choose) to reach the coast. The beach at Pointe de Figuerolles is the easiest to reach. From Niolon train station, it’s about a 20-minute walk that’s relatively flat. If you take the train all the way west to the town of Martigues, you’ll arrive at the wide, sandy beaches of Verdon, 15 minutes’ walk from La Couronne station, and Sainte-Croix, an easy 35 minute hike east from Verdon.

What to do in Côte Bleue

Hiking to and along the beach is popular here; head out either early or late in the day in summer, since there is absolutely no shade. Some of the calanques beaches, such as Mejean, have walls that cast shadows later in the afternoon (around 4 p.m.), but otherwise it’s strongly advised to bring an umbrella, plenty of water, and a hat. At the western end of the Côte Bleue, wide, sandy plage du Verdon has pedal boats, lounge chairs, and umbrellas for rent.

You’ll find kayak and stand-up paddleboard rentals in several of the calanques, including Niolon (closest to Marseille) and Carry Kayak, Akila Côte Bleue, and Base Nature & Nautique in Carry-le-Rouet. If you want to sail around the Côte Bleue without chartering a boat, you can book a group full or half-day trip with Balade à la Voile (from €75) from L’Estaque (the first stop on the train). You can also book a private sailing excursion departing from L’Estaque on one of the many sailboats docked here (see Click&Boat).

Where to stay in Côte Bleue

Vacation rentals far outnumber hotels here. The Côte Bleue is an easy day trip from Marseille, so you can always stay overnight in the city. Otherwise, check out Love and Sunsets in Sausset-les-Pins, a suite a few minutes from the beach with hot tub and paddleboards to borrow. In the same town are two B&Bs: La Restanque, which has three rooms and a homey feel, and the more contemporary Les Cactus Bleus, which also has three rooms plus a pool. Further west in Martigues, try La Bergerie à la Mer, a 10-minute walk from Verdon beach; guests here can eat breakfast (with homemade fig and pear jams) around the pool or in the succulent-filled garden.

Instead of the Luberon . . . go to the Ariège

Aerial view of 12th- and 13th-century timbered houses lining grassy main square in Mirepoix, with large church in distance — Twelfth- and 13th-century timbered houses line the main square in Mirepoix, where you’ll find a covered market each Monday.

The hilltop villages of the Luberon in Provence are undeniably charming; I go all the time in spring, fall, and even winter, but in summer they’re absolutely swarming with visitors. If you want to see a similar setting in the southwest of France, head to the Ariège region, 29 miles south of Toulouse. You can explore the medieval hilltop villages once defended by the Cathars against invading Roman Catholics in the 12th and 13th centuries without defending yourself against hordes of other tourists.

What to do in Ariège

Make your home base in Mirepoix, a medieval market town that has given its name to the culinary art of dicing vegetables and gently cooking them. Stroll through the narrow streets full of 13th-century timbered houses. Don’t miss the Monday market in the cobblestoned Place Maréchal-Leclerc (from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m.), where you can gorge on farm-fresh fruits and vegetables and fill your rustic straw tote with all manner of bread, charcuterie, cheese, honey, and jam.

Another great market is the Marché de Revel, Saturdays (7 a.m.–1 p.m.) in the small town of Revel, an hour away by car. There has been a market here for nearly 700 years, and today 300 vendors sell everything from produce to dishes such as aligot (cheese blended into pureed potatoes) to artisan goods like shoes and bags. The UNESCO-listed Cité de Carcassonne, the best-preserved medieval walled city, is 45 minutes away by car.

Where to stay in Ariège

Relais Mira Peis sits inside a mansion from 1666. The five rooms have terra-cotta or hardwood floors, exposed beams, and antique furniture. Eat in the lovely garden, indoors, or by the pool—a very welcome respite during toasty summer days.

Instead of Chamonix-Mont-Blanc Valley . . . go to Mercantour National Park

Aerial view of gray mountains with patches of grass and trees, plus three dark green lakes in distance — Many hikes in Mercantour National Park work their way around glacial lakes.

Just 90 minutes north of Nice, Mercantour National Park is a quieter alternative to Chamonix-Mont-Blanc. Its mountains, glacial lakes, and skiing rival those of Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, but Mercantour has fewer visitors (and much lower prices). Mercantour is also one of only seven Dark Sky Places in France, and generally mild weather makes it a lovely spot for admiring the stars.

What to do in Mercantour National Park

Come for stargazing, hiking up to glacial lakes, and skiing in winter (Alpine and Nordic). A popular and not-too-difficult hiking route is from the Laus parking lot to Allos Lake, a mostly flat 4.5-mile loop around the water. Covering 133 acres, Allos is the largest high-elevation lake in Europe, at 7,309 feet above sea level.

Where to stay in Mercantour National Park

There is no camping in the park, but you can book a seasonal guesthouse at Longon Refuge, which has its own farm. Other nearby options include five snug cabins at Les Toits Rouges and Les 3 Flocons, which has a “bubble” yurt, a cabin, and an apartment. For a really special experience, stay an hour from Mercantour National Park at Auberge de la Roche, a one-Michelin-star restaurant that has five chalet-style guest rooms.

Lauren Elkin contributed to the reporting of this story.

Sophie Friedman

Sophie Friedman is a freelance journalist and editor based in Marseille, France. Prior to contributing to Afar, she oversaw Michelin Guide’s site and print guidebooks. She has worked on a dozen guidebooks for Fodor’s, covering destinations such as Egypt, Myanmar, and China. Her writing and photos have appeared in the Wall Street Journal, Travel + Leisure, The Infatuation, Roadbook, and more. Her favorite ways to move around are by train and bike, and her backpack always has nuts, clementines, and something to read.