Exploring France’s lesser-known highlights doesn’t mean compromising on your French experience. Eschew the Eiffel Tower, leave the Riviera behind, and you’ll find the same magical pull persists elsewhere—as well as even richer opportunities to delve into France’s fascinating food culture, history, and natural beauty.
You don’t need to venture far. Swap a villa amid Provence’s lavender fields for a farmhouse stay in a quiet corner of the Lot, to the west in the Midi-Pyrénées départament, only an hour or so longer to reach by train from Paris. Settle into a small city like Toulouse, soaking up the charm of the southwest and its cuisine: a true expression of terroir. Or, if adventure calls, trek to fortified towns as spring unfolds in the Alps.
These places represent the real France, where weekly markets still set the pace of country life, village squares resound to the thwack of pétanque boules in summer, and vine leaves flutter in carefully tended vineyards.
You can also choose to support more responsible tourism, favoring locally run businesses, often in the same families for generations, and staying in renovated châteaux and gîtes that help sustain rural communities. Opt to dine among France’s glut of Michelin Green Star restaurants, awarded for their commitment to sustainable gastronomy, and where possible, make the most of memorable journeys by train, on foot, or even by water.
Toulouse is France’s fourth-largest city, after Paris, Marseille, and Lyon.
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1. Skip Paris and favor longer stays in smaller cities instead
Your French trip will be immeasurably richer if you spend a week in one of the country’s smaller cities rather than three days racing between museums, monuments, and fine-dining spots in Paris. “There’s a real feeling of hospitality and warmth in Toulouse that you won’t get in the other large French cities”, says Jessica Hammer, founder of Taste of Toulouse. “Your presence as a tourist is more likely to be welcomed as a positive contribution to the economy and an opportunity to show off local treasures.” Her guided culinary tours shine a light on the down-to-earth gastronomy of southwest France, telling the stories of local artisans and their products, sharing their enthusiasm and pride. Expect to sample delicacies like rillettes d’oie (slow-cooked shredded goose meat, similar to a pâté and among the many ways duck and goose are celebrated here), explore an array of raw sheep and goat milk cheeses, see displays laden with haricots blancs (white beans), and learn why locals always say chocolatine, not pain au chocolat.
Stay a little longer, and you can also use Toulouse as a base to explore further. Jessica has recently launched food tours to the nearby town of Albi, reachable by train in just under an hour, and surrounded by the Tarn départment. “Every time I visit Albi, I fall in love all over again with its charm, its little hidden secrets, the generosity of the food and wine, and the beautiful architecture that is so similar—but also different—from Toulouse,” she says. “You could spend a day in Albi, but I would have no problem spending a week here as well, just sinking into the slow pace of local life and the everyday wonders that the residents here enjoy.”
Each of France’s small cities has its own appeal. Nantes, in the Loire-Atlantique département, is artsy and a little bit alternative. Montpellier has grand, classical architecture that rivals Paris—but none of the capital’s infamous snootiness. Lille holds on to its Flemish history, delivering impeccably cozy vibes in its estaminets (traditional bistros) and cafés.
Noirmoutier, in the Bay of Biscay, is only accessible by one bridge. It’s a 90-minute drive to the nearest big city of Nantes, but as the tourist board here says, “distance makes the heart grow fonder.”
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2. Explore France’s fascinating islands, including Corsica and Noirmoutier
If you really want to lose the crowds, leave mainland France behind. You’ve got more than 1,000 islands to choose from along the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts.
Noirmoutier in the Vendée, halfway down the Atlantic coast, is only accessible by one bridge or a road at low tide. It’s simply one of France’s most charming beach destinations, all whitewashed houses, salt marshes, oyster farms, and sandy coves. Visits to the island’s salt makers help sustain the artisanal production that has long been at the center of local life here. Some hundred salterns make up the Coopérative des Producteurs de Sel, with tours (usually free) showing how the forces of the sea, sun, and wind have been used to harvest salt for centuries. You can take home beautiful packets of fleur de sel, or the coarser gros sel, for a few euros.
Parisians might descend on Corsica, one of our favorite places to visit in France, en masse come July and August, but you’ll still find plenty of island escapism here, too. Visit out of season (May, June, September, and even October can be beautiful) and make a beeline for the wild beaches and crags of Cap Corse, the island’s northerly, finger-shaped promontory. Aside from lending its name to one of France’s most famous aperitifs, Cap Corse is distinguished by its rugged landscapes, traditional villages, and defiantly Corsican culture.
There’s responsible luxury here, too. Check into one of the calm, driftwood-decorated rooms at Misíncu hotel and find yourself surrounded by pines and lemon trees, the Mediterranean at your feet. An official European Union Ecolabel award reflects the hotel’s respect for this remarkable environment, including an ambitious permaculture project.
3. Chase Michelin Green Stars
In the five years since Michelin launched its Green Star award, celebrating the restaurants at the forefront of sustainable gastronomy, the number of French restaurants holding the accolade has climbed to reach one hundred.
Plan your trip around a meal at one of these adresses and you won’t leave disappointed.
La Bòria provides an unexpected draw to the Ardèche countryside, to the south of Lyon, a true farm-to-table philosophy showcasing homemade charcuterie, locally sourced produce, and even plates and knives crafted by local artisans. Or, try Choko Ona in Espelette, where all things Basque take center stage—including the local chili pepper, piment d’Espelette. It’s just a 30-minute drive away from Biarritz, but deeply seasonal menus will immerse you in a different world.
In Brittany, you can stay and dine at Maison Tiegezh, which has been in the same family for generations. Chef Baptiste Denieul became the youngest to be awarded a Michelin star back in 2017 and today holds the Green Star, sourcing most of his ingredients within a 15-kilometer (9.3-mile) radius, or from the restaurant’s own vegetable garden. Local apples might find their way into delicate crepes, while the bounty of Brittany’s coastline is shown across just-seared scallops, perfectly pink langoustines, and salty seaweed butter.
The Canal du Midi, which spans 360 kilometers and numbers 328 engineering structures (such as locks, bridges, and tunnels), dates back to 1667. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site.
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4. Charter a boat along France’s extensive canal network
France has Europe’s largest river network: an astonishing 6,700 kilometers (4,163 miles) of navigable waterways. The Canal du Midi, itself a UNESCO World Heritage site built under the reign of Louis XIV in the 1600s, is the most famous and perhaps easiest route to explore, running from Toulouse to Marseillan past the walled city of Carcassonne and its Disney-esque spires and the laid-back town of Narbonne.
You don’t need a license to rent a barge from one of Le Boat’s four bases, setting off at a sedate 6 kph (3.7 mph) and living aboard for a few days on the section of your choice. Stock up with wine en route from the vineyards of Minervois—heaven if you like black currant-y reds. The Côtes Noires from Château La Villatade, whose husband-and-wife owners Richard and Sophie left Paris to spearhead biodynamic winemaking and sustainable development in the region, are a must try.
You could also choose to explore sleepy routes to the north, floating down the Canal de Garonne aboard one of Locaboat’s hybrid pénichettes (their more environmentally friendly version of a self-drive barge), passing over the remarkable Roman aqueduct at Agen and stopping in the abbey town of Moissac.
Even in Paris, taking to the canals will show you a new side to the city. Skipper an electric boat from Marin D’Eau Douce, starting in the Bassin de la Villette in the northeast of the city before heading out for a few hours along the Canal de l’Ourcq. Stop at Dock B in the once-industrial suburb of Pantin for a beer before cruising back into the city.
The southwestern department of the Lot is home to innumerable produce markets and a handful of eye-catching villages, including the cliff-hugging Rocamadour.
Photos by steve estvanik/Shutterstock (L); Jon Ingall/Shutterstock (R)
5. Rent a gîte (or a château)
If you want to venture to villages where hotels aren’t there to host you, you’ll find it surprisingly easy to rent a storybook home all your own.
Through Gîtes de France, you can reserve thousands of vacation rentals, properties ranging from renovated barns and tiny homes to stone-walled country cottages and half-timbered farmhouses. (Just be sure to check the small print, as sometimes French travelers don’t expect linens and towels to be included.)
You could add a countryside escape to your trip with a week in one of Normandy’s peaceful villages, while in the south beautiful properties are a steal in the Lot. Look for those near the market town of Figeac, which also puts the cliff-top villages of Rocamadour and Saint-Cirq-Lapopie in easy reach. During your stay, you’ll be able to stock your fridge with organic produce, visit local restaurants, and often directly support those who’ve painstakingly restored homes in rural communities.
Even châteaux are possible to make your own for a week. The charming Château Lamothe de Haux, a fourth-generation family-owned domaine set amid the beautiful rolling vineyards of Bordeaux, has a historic guest house as impressive as the main 16th-century château itself. Stays, naturally, include estate tours and tastings as well as days relaxing by the pool or enjoying games in the billiard room.
“We like to work as a family, respecting nature and ensuring we produce quality wines,” says domaine manager, Maria Combart. “We love our region of Entre-Deux-Mers, which remains both authentic and simple.” They recommend that guests visit not just the city of Bordeaux and Saint-Émilion during their stay, but really get to know the area, exploring the smaller towns of Cadillac and Blaye. Then there’s the coast: “it’s just an hour’s drive to Arcachon, the Dune du Pilat (the tallest sand dune in Europe), or Cap Ferret.”
Lac du Bourget, at the southernmost tip of France’s Jura Mountains, has been immortalized by Balzac, Dumas, and others. The region, including nearby town Aix-les-Bains, is a great base for a relaxing spa trip.
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6. Try a thermal cure in a charming spa town
Spa breaks in France often have little to do with luxury hotels. The healing powers of thermal waters and thalassotherapy (saltwater cures) are so enshrined in the national psyche, French residents, often retirees, can actually be prescribed multi-day wellness vacations with state health insurance picking up the check.
If you’re seeking serenity on your own dime, Aix-les-Bains is the perfect destination for a first dip into French spa culture. Snuggled onto the shores of Lac du Bourget, France’s largest natural lake, the town offers the beauty of the Alps as well as more spas, pools, and rejuvenating treatments than you could pack into one trip.
Check out La Parenthèse, with its floatation center and vast aqua-relaxation area, for either a stay or a day. Or sample a more old-school approach at Thermes Chevalley, where the waters bubble up into indoor and outdoor pools at 34°C (93°F)—just be prepared that like many French pools, they mandate Speedos or tight swim shorts only for men, while women can wear a swimsuit or bikini as they wish.
Vichy, in the Auvergne, has a different vibe but similarly can feel like a step back in time. Check into the Art Deco Vichy Célestins Spa Hôtel for access to the largest thermal spa in Europe at 7,500 square meters (81,000 square feet). June offers both cheaper rates and few crowds before summer breaks get underway in earnest in June and July.
Écrins National Park (left) and Pyrenees National Park (right) provide miles and miles of crowd-free hiking and exploring.
Photos by Francois Roux/Shutterstock (L); Poliki/Shutterstock (R)
7. Set off on some seriously beautiful hikes
There are two letters you need to know if you want to go hiking in France: GR, standing for “grande randonnée” or great hike. Some 300 long-distance GR routes lace the country, many traversing France’s 11 national parks.
Écrins National Park, high in the Alps, holds both the GR50 and GR54, which can be attempted from when the snow melts on the lower slopes in spring through to the fall. While the entire GR54 can take up to 15 days, you can easily tackle smaller portions, perhaps adding on a stop in the Vauban fortified town of Mont-Dauphin.
The mountains are no less spectacular in the Parc national des Pyrénées along the Spanish border. The GR20, with its 55 stages, is a serious undertaking. More accessible are day hikes from ISKÖ’s mountain chalets—or the team can set you up for canyoning, mountain biking, or climbing.
Although perhaps the biggest Pyrenean draw of all comes after the day’s activities are done, when the night skies reveal some of Europe’s best stargazing. Sleep out beneath the stars in a dome at the Perchoir des Pyrénées or take the cable car to the top of the Pic du Midi, in the Dark Sky Reserve, to visit the observatory.
