This Lesser-Known Island Is Malta’s Quieter Little Sister

On the surface, Gozo is a pleasantly sleepy island. It sits comfortably in the middle of the Mediterranean and is part of the vibrant Maltese islands, while removed from the hubbub of the mainland. In Gozo, residents peacefully sweep their doorsteps while church bells toll distantly in the background. But beneath this laid-back facade is an island bursting with activity, as I found out when I moved here two years ago.

Weekly festivals, epic hiking trails, and a thrilling underwater world provide residents and visitors with plenty to do every moment of the day. Plus, mesmerizing valley views and villa pools await.

Whatever kind of vacation you’re looking for, Gozo can likely provide it. I’ve enjoyed exploring every corner of the island, getting to know locals (many of whom shared their top Gozo tips for this story), and discovering off-the-beaten-path gems. Malta’s smaller neighbor is also easy to get to and get around in—find out more, including where to stay, in our guide. Keep reading for everything the island has to offer, as recommended by the people who know it best, its residents.

Scuba dive Xatt L-ahmar’s shipwrecks

“The things I love most about diving in Gozo are the crystal clear visibility, stunning vistas, and epic wrecks,” says Chris Dennis, a scuba diving instructor trainer in Marsalforn. Gozo, more so than Malta, is the place in the Mediterranean for scuba diving. Its variety of dive sites, including reef walls, caverns, boulder fields, and wrecks, offers a diverse range of underwater experiences for everyone, from recently certified divers to technical professionals.

At Dwerja, on Gozo’s west coast, two sites await newly qualified divers. One of the most popular, the Blue Hole is an almost perfect circle cut into the limestone that allows divers to descend into the pristine blue water and swim out into the open ocean through an underwater archway. Next door, the towering crevice of the Inland Sea connects a shallow pool on the inside of the cliff face to the sea, framing views of the sparkling sapphire waters with soaring dark rock.

“My favorite spot is Billingshurst Cave, which, as you exit, showcases just how incredibly blue the water can be,” says Dennis. Gozo has numerous caverns, providing cave-like experiences for recreational divers with the added comfort of large, arched entryways leading back to the open sea.

Xatt l-Ahmar on the south coast is a true diver’s playground. Here, four magnificent shipwrecks await exploration. Advanced divers can swim through old engine rooms, along coral-encrusted decks, and even down the iconic staircase of the MV Karwela. Technical divers should try the newest wreck, the 196-foot-long ex-oil tanker, MV Hephaestus, which sits at a depth of nearly 164 feet off the corner of Red Bay.

See scenic views at Dwerja and San Felipe Bay

Courtesy of VisitMalta/Nathalie Wanders.

Gozo’s small size compared to Malta is one of its biggest assets. It makes accessing its distinctive, captivating scenery relatively easy (nowhere is more than about 20 minutes away by car). Enjoy long walks, mountain biking, or even quad bike tours to experience the island’s outdoor attractions. Or simply go on a scenic drive.

Dwerja is undoubtedly Gozo’s highlight. The steep drive down from Gharb reveals panoramic vistas dominated by the almighty Fungus Rock, a huge spit of land jutting out of Dwerja Bay, which is usually dotted with yachts and snorkelers. As the road curves around, the Inland Sea comes into view, its small pool feeding into the ocean through a massive slit in the cliff. Locals run 15-minute boat rides through the crack for a small fee—awe-inspiring transportation between the busy, boathouse-flanked Inland Sea pool and the vast expanse of the open ocean.

Two of my personal favorites are Wied il-Mielaħ, an impressive rock “window,” and the short walking trail on the northeast coast just before San Felipe Bay. Here, huge fallen boulders and caves throughout the side of the valley make you feel like you’re on another planet.

Hike Gozo’s coastline

“Gozo is made for walking,” says Victor Natalias, director of Ta Óneira language school in Xaghra. “It’s compact but full of layers. I’ve been walking it for years and I’m still discovering new corners.”

Gozo’s many rewarding hiking trails are thanks to its rural landscape. Trails weave between farmhouses, fields, and along the craggy cliff edges of the island’s stunning coastline.

Experienced hikers will love the challenging undulation of the Coastal Path. More than 47 miles of trails feature quintessential Gozitan buildings, such as baroque churches and Punic-age ruins, as well as geological marvels like Wied il-Mielaħ and the deep-cut Għasri Valley. With regularly spaced towns and villages, you can easily divide the hike into sections.

One of the most spectacular stretches is along the Ta’ Ćenć cliffs (the highest on the island) to Xlendi, one of Gozo’s most celebrated seaside towns. For Natalias, Gozo’s standout hiking region is the north coast. “[It’s] my favorite: every season brings a different mood, different colors, different sounds. It never looks the same twice.”

Plenty of inland trails await, too. Walkers can take in the staggered plots of orange groves and prickly pear bushes in Marsalforn Valley or soak up the quiet back streets of Gharb, the island’s westernmost town, overlooking Dwerja.

Swim at Wied il-Għasri and Ramla Beach

Courtesy of VisitMalta.

Mgarr ix-Xini is a beautiful inlet flanked by cliffs and frequented by locals. Snorkelers will spot crabs, spoon worms, sea cucumbers, and all manner of fish in the sun-dappled shallows. San Felipe Bay, found near the popular swimming spot of Daħlet Qorrot, is worth the rocky climb for an underwater view of rocks and boulders.

Valleys define the landscape of Gozo, and many are delightful places to take a dip. Some of the best swimming spots lie at the bottom of steep declines or steps, such as Ta’ Ćenć and San Blas Bay. Wied il-Għasri, reached by steps carved into the side of a cliff face, is particularly picturesque. Water from a winding, jagged valley feeds the swimming spot, which has a 32-foot-wide pebbly beach.

For a more accessible scenic swim, head to the red-sand expanse of Gozo’s longest beach, Ramla Bay. Along with ample parking and amenities, it has the postcard-worthy Ta Mixta Cave overlooking the beach from the cliffside.

Visit the Cittadella and Megalithic Temples

Courtesy of VisitMalta.

Historic sites are among the Maltese islands’ star attractions, and Gozo boasts several. Intrepid visitors can explore the remnants of 5,000-year-old temples tucked away on clifftops (such as the Wardija Punic temple in Dwerja), sip fresh water from centuries-old springs, and walk the walls of 16th-century fortifications.

History enthusiasts should start at the medieval Cittadella in Gozo’s capital, Victoria. The 194,000-square-foot fortress houses a cathedral, a granary and grain silos, World War II bunkers, and four museums. One day is barely enough time to absorb it all.

Next, head to Xaghra’s UNESCO-listed megalithic temples, a site Maria Wybrew, a Cittadella tour guide who’s lived in Gozo for nearly 10 years (and my mom), enthusiastically recommends. “The Ġgantija complex is fabulous,” she says. “The views are lovely, and the museum attached to it is incredibly interesting—particularly with all the amazing figures on display.” The complex (named after the giants said to have made it) dates to 3,600 B.C.E., making it among the oldest standing structures in the world and older than their sister temples in Malta.

For more recent history, the Ta’ Kola and Xewkija windmills are open to the public and offer an enlightening insight into a simpler time. You can also see picture-perfect watchtowers (at Mgarr ix-Xini, Xlendi, and Dwerja) and numerous intricately built churches. St George’s Basilica in Victoria is one of the best examples of the baroque style popular on the islands.

Courtesy of VisitMalta/Albert Camilleri

Go rock climbing in Munxar and Mgarr ix-Xini

Gozo’s limestone landscape is a climber’s dream. The island’s combination of gorge-like valleys and soaring ridges makes for a pleasing panoply of climbing routes. Few places on the island wouldn’t tempt climbers, but a couple of key spots regularly draw the cragsmen crowd.

One of the most loved is Mgarr ix-Xini Valley, whose easy access and varied topography offer bolted and trad routes of all grades. When Javi Pesquera isn’t delivering parcels for Maltapost, he’s scaling Gozo’s rock faces, something he’s been doing as a hobby for more than eight years. “I love climbing at Mgarr ix-Xini,” he says. “It’s easy to access and has plenty of climbing routes. You can find every single level from beginner to more challenging pro routes.” Thanks to a generous promontory, setting top ropes for beginners here is simple. A small tunnel through the cliff leads to the overhanging Dream Walls, where more experienced climbers will enjoy testing their limits.

Elsewhere, Black Slabs in Munxar offers a quick but heart-racing climb for those with limited time, as this dense piece of rock slopes right down onto a road. The White Tower in Nadur boasts routes up to grade 8a as well as the perfect photo opportunity straddling the gap between two slabs.

Attend Gozo festivals

“Carnival is one of the best times of year to visit Gozo,” says Boo Scerri, a Maltese marketing manager living in Fontana. “The island bursts with color thanks to the elaborate floats and spectacular costumes locals have spent months making.”

In February, in the weeks leading up to Lent, this momentous event sees locals enjoy a weekend of celebration ahead of Easter. The Knights of St. John introduced carnival in the 16th century, and it’s grown in size and popularity ever since.

It has also given rise to a modern spin-off, which has proven popular in recent years. “I particularly like Nadur’s ‘spontaneous carnival,’” Scerri says. “Outfits are often satirical, and people really let loose for the weekend.” Costumes are often political and controversial, representing a relatively rare moment of expression in an otherwise orderly community.

Aside from Carnival, every locality on the island has its own festa dedicated to the patron saint of the town. Such festivities see squares draped with banners and flags. Music, processions, and revelry fill the streets over multiple days.

The calendar also features festivals celebrating flowers (Gozo Flower Art Festival), honey (Honey & Bee Fest), films (Gozo Film Festival), ceramics (Gozo Ceramic Festival), food (Gozo Food Festival), music, and more. Oenophiles should visit during the Fontana Wine Festival. Stalls feature locally produced vintages, and a live DJ set sees merrymakers sampling more than 35 varieties of wine late into the evening.

Children will enjoy the International Kite and Wind Festival, which fills Gozo’s blue skies with multicolored creations from around the world each October. Xaghra’s fig festival is a sweet celebration of the much-loved fruit, and offers generous samples to visitors, accompanied by music performances and local artisanal stalls.

Ally Wybrew