As a Puerto Rico native, I’ve had countless amazing experiences on my Island, but joining AFAR editors on a trip earlier this year to collaborate on stories was different. Mountains, coffee farms, urban art districts, award-winning restaurants, and locally recommended spots are all just a taste of what filled our days as part of the inaugural United Voices by AFAR program. So, we decided to share the details of our off-the-beaten-path itinerary, tips from the locals we met along the way, and impressions from editors. Puerto Rico isn’t just for dipping your toes in pristine beaches—it has more than one can imagine.
Local content creator Jesse Echevarria poses with an AFAR editor at the public art installation, Yaucromatic.
Photo by AFAR editors
Ponce and beyond
Our trip started in Ponce, a charming city located on the southern coast of the Island, known for its picturesque architecture and rich history. We stayed at the Ponce Plaza Hotel and Casino, across the main plaza right in front of the cathedral, where I met AFAR’s associate destination editor Chloe Arrojado, photo editor Michelle Heimerman, and deputy editor Katherine LaGrave.
We split into two groups, with one visiting the vibrantly painted buildings in Yauco that are part of the public art project Yaucromatic, followed by a hike through Puerto Rico’s dry forest in Guánica. “If I could do any of our activities again, it would definitely be the dry forest hike,” Arrojado said. “Not only did I gain an understanding of Puerto Rico’s environment, but I also learned about the way it tied into its history.”
Meanwhile, my team visited an incredible coffee farm, Sandra Farms, on the beautiful mountain ridge of Adjuntas. I thoroughly enjoyed this activity because as a local, I’ve never experienced having coffee at such a high altitude while admiring the beautiful scenery. When it rained, the view was covered by mist and mystery. There was an underlying sense of excitement, almost as if the mountain air brought a positive vibe.
It was impossible not to feel enthusiastic as we all gathered to learn more about the different varieties of coffee beans, harvesting, and the roasting process. Our tour guide, who’s also a coffee specialist, processing technician, and roaster, Carmelo Rodriguez, eloquently discussed Puerto Rico’s history of coffee cultivation (dating back to Spanish conquistadors) and how this bean became part of a fast-growing economy.
Scenes from Sandra Farms
Photos by Herson Guerrero
The highlight was tasting a variety of roasts, including one produced using the time-consuming “natural process” for a richer flavor, and chocolate-covered coffee beans. This coffee was so fresh and smooth, it didn’t need any kind of sweetener. It’s one thing to just order coffee, but diving into all the essentials that increase coffee’s quality gives you another perspective and appreciation for each sip of brew you take in the morning, on a commute or if you’re ever lucky enough—at Sandra Farms.
Exploring the local fabric, past and present
The next day, one group headed to the fascinating Caguana Indigenous Ceremonial Site, while my group visited the Ponce studio of an inspiring artist who’s dear to the people of Puerto Rico, Antonio Martorell. Celebrated in the Puerto Rican art scene as well as in other art-world circles, with works in the permanent collections of museums throughout the world, Martorell is the kind of artist whose name is known even among those that have never stepped foot inside a gallery. Earlier this year he was awarded a National Medal of Arts, and he’s been an art professor in Puerto Rico, Colombia, Argentina, and Mexico, among other achievements.
Antonio Martorell in his studio
Photo by Herson Guerrero
Going to Martorell’s studio, which he calls Taller de la Playa (or “beach workshop”), was one of those things you never actually thought would happen but did. His space is filled with sundry artworks—paintings, wood carvings, furniture, posters—a small sample of the quality (and quantity) of work that brings a sense of pride and accomplishment that is truly part of our Puerto Rican legacy.
As a local, I greatly admire how diverse and profound Martorell’s art is, how it transcends from generation to generation. And having him give a guided tour made it even more of a treasured memory. LaGrave called the visit one of the trip’s high points and said, “It was a gift to walk and listen to Antonio Martorell’s life’s work.” (Pro tip: Martorell holds regular tours. Check his Facebook page for upcoming dates.)
Afterward came what was, for many of us, the overall highpoint, El Pretexto. At this scenic property in the mountains of Cayey, we enjoyed a curated dinner experience. Freshly picked ingredients and free-range poultry (who often wander over to the alfresco dining table) elevated the “farm to table” concept to an experiential level and was another standout for LaGrave. “I learned about farming and the importance of sustainability [while] witnessing local producers in action,” she says. In contrast, sipping well-paired wines while watching the sunset, having cocktails with live Spanish guitar melodies in the background, and staying the night in a room with a private pool, was truly fantastic for me.
Music and food in Cayey
Our third and final day began with a stop in Cayey at Casa Histórica de la Música Cayeyana, which took my heart away. This historical music museum is a must for all music lovers. We had a private musical performance where we enjoyed Puerto Rican folkloric music and a tour showcasing moments and people in Cayey that impacted music globally.
For lunch, we headed to Guavate, also known as the Ruta del Lechón (or Pork Highway), a popular local destination where you can eat slow-roasted pork, rice and beans, cassava, fried sweet potatoes, and sweet plantains, among other delicious typical foods. “I loved the Pork Highway atmosphere, driving through the scenic winding roads through mountains to get there,” says Heimerman. “[It was] very colorful and full of great crowds of locals and tourists.”
A fitting final feast
AFAR’s photo editor shoots one of the colorful dishes at Bohemia Cocina en Movimiento.
Photo by AFAR editors
Our journey ended with my favorite restaurant of the entire trip, Bohemia Cocina en Movimiento, in the breezy mountains of Cayey. This gastronomical experience, helmed by Argentinian chef Mariano Sena in partnership with local Puerto Rican chef Manuel Massa of Yunta, included a selection of wines from different regions of the globe that pair well with the stunning scenery surrounding the restaurant and with a reception, lunch, or dinner. “I am Argenrican,” Sena said with a smile as he introduced what would be a very special meal.
It opened with a distinctive cultural snack, an alcapurria, a Puerto Rican fritter. “Being from Argentina and living in Puerto Rico, I’ve found the powerful chemistry between these two magnificent gastronomy cultures,” the chef said. Drawing on his Italian heritage, a mixture of spicy yet smoky peppers gave a twist to a traditional pasta recipe with fresh tomatoes that was also part of this four-course dinner.
“The sorbet is amazing,” someone shouted across the table. And it was just in time to clear our palate before the delicious ribs, cooked in wood and bathed in cognac, got our attention. Conversations with the friendly staff added to the intimate experience as the evening unfolded.
The experience of traveling in my homeland with AFAR editors made me feel so proud of my roots. Each person I met along the way demonstrated dedication and passion for what they’ve built. Seeing my fellow travelers’ reactions when learning something new about my culture reassured me that Puerto Rico is a little piece of paradise. Sunsets are spectacular, people are joyful and charismatic, food is some of the best I’ve tried, the ocean has many shades of blue, and the mountains create a beautiful canvas as if it were painted to allure any traveler that sets his or her eyes on them. Being in my country and showing the natural beauty and potential it has to others reminds me that sometimes you don’t have to go far to wanderlust.
