Auguri! I exclaim to a couple after stumbling by accident upon their marriage proposal. The new bride-to-be acknowledges my congratulations with a nod, wiping tears from her eyes. In the distance, Vernazza’s colorful buildings sit beside a curved dock of small boats that float on aquamarine waters. It’s the kind of lookout made for tooth-achingly sweet, intimate moments. But here in overcrowded Cinque Terre, finding seclusion can be rare.
I came to Cinque Terre (Italian for “five lands”) to explore the villages for which it’s named—Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore for a weekend in May. This part of northwestern Italy, 90 minutes north of Pisa by train, is graced by 70 miles of hiking trails, vineyard terraces, pebbled beaches, and incredible Mediterranean views. The towns sit within a 15-square-mile national park, itself part of a UNESCO World Heritage site. The problem is that everybody knows it: While Cinque Terre is home to 4,000 residents, more than 2.4 million people visit the area per year.
As with very popular cities like Venice and entire countries such as Greece, I was determined to explore Cinque Terre while avoiding the crowds.
Finding Cinque Terre beyond the crowds
The first step to avoid rubbing shoulders with the hordes of hikers, especially when traversing the four-section 7.5-mile Sentiero Azzurro trail is getting an early start. Also known as the “Blue Trail,” it’s the most popular hike in the area, connecting Cinque Terre’s five villages while offering views of the Mediterranean Sea below the Ligurian cliffside. If you want to beat the crowds, you’ll want to start walking by 7 a.m.
Commencing a section of the hike in the early morning from the northernmost village of Monterosso secures my companion and me almost complete privacy. The only noise is the sound of our sneakers (keep in mind you can be fined for wearing flip-flops or other unfit shoes). The silence lulls us into an almost meditative state as we venture up steep inclines and over uneven trails, inspecting the pink flowers that grow along the path. By late morning, the reality of Cinque Terre’s popularity settles in as greetings of ciao between hikers become more frequent, and I find myself constantly maneuvering around families on the narrow pathway.
The liveliness extends to the villages as the Cinque Terre Express trains bring a consistent stream of travelers excited to explore each hamlet’s personality. Riomaggiore, the southernmost village of the five, draws lively crowds to explore the water with boat and kayak rentals. Manorola leans on the romantic side, with many establishments boasting views of the Mediterranean to accompany a fresh seafood dinner. (Try Trattoria dal Billy—the layout spread over several floors maximizes the chances of a scenic evening.)
If there were a “middle child” village, it would have to be Corniglia, which is also physically situated in the middle of the five. Its clifftop location gives a more isolated feel, and quiet seems to be only a side street away from the main piazza. Further north, Vernazza’s beauty is loud and in your face: A boat dock frames the side of the village, creating an idyllic coastal landscape that can be admired from afar. Vernazza is even considered one of the country’s most beautiful villages. Monterosso, the northernmost and largest of the five hamlets, is great for accommodations, restaurants, and access to the only sandy beach in the five villages.
On a coffee break in Vernazza, my friend’s comically large cappuccino—more akin to a bowl of soup—makes it clear how accustomed the villages are to foreign tourists and their expectations of large portions.
Overtourism has been an issue for years, and various efforts have been made to address it: For example, only 400 people are allowed to walk a 0.6-mile stretch of the Sentiero Azzurro, the Via dell’Amore. You’ll also need to book in advance (from €13 in low season, which includes the Cinque Terrre Trekking Card, your ticket to enter the national park).
Still, finding quiet in Cinque Terre is possible. A five-minute detour from the gift shops leads to Vernazza’s outskirts, where the crowds disappear. Life moves blissfully slowly in these parts. Someone dusts their carpet draped over a balcony, and residents chat with one another as they lug a wheelbarrow down the hillside. The land feels open once again.
Related: Been There, Seen That: 7 Compelling Alternatives to Europe’s Busiest Cities
Hiking without the crowds means you can see gorgeous views—without bodies blocking them.
Photos by Chloe Arrojado
Tips for experiencing Cinque Terre without the crowds
1. Time your visit right
Many sit-down restaurants don’t open until around noon, so work up an appetite by hiking early in the morning, which also helps you avoid the crowds (they peak from the late morning to late afternoon). The Cinque Terre Express trains between the villages run from 5 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Cinqueterre.eu.com, an unofficial but useful site, has info about trains, ticketing, and the condition of each hiking trail.
Late spring, summer, and the early fall months are the busiest. Winter brings fewer crowds, and many restaurants and shops close during this time. Consider visiting during the shoulder seasons of April and October. Keep in mind that Cinque Terre is also popular for Italian travelers, so it’s crowded during national holidays like Easter and Italian Liberation Day (April 25). On certain days in April, May, and June, the Monterosso–Vernazza leg of the Sentiero Verde Azzurro is one-way only.
2. Stay longer
You could just spend a day in Cinque Terre, and many do. But choosing a quick trip means weaving through groups of hikers and missing the quotidian beauty of life beyond the piazzas. If you really want to see the Cinque Terre without stress, stay in the area for at least two or three nights.
After the day-trippers leave Cinque Terre and others retire to their hotel rooms, villages are left in arguably their most magical state. An evening walk in Monterosso reveals the warm glow emanating from apartment windows and the sounds of residents having dinner and washing dishes, allowing you the chance to relish these vignettes of resident life.
3. Get off the beaten path
While hiking the Sentiero Azzuro is by far the most popular way to explore the trails of Cinque Terre, it’s certainly not the only one. If you’re an experienced hiker, consider the hilly 15.3-mile Santuari e Chiese (“sanctuaries and churches”) trail; this more inland hike connects each of the village’s church sanctuaries. Cinque Terre’s trail network also extends to the lesser-visited, outer villages of Levanto (a four-mile hike north of Monterosso) and Portovenere (an eight-mile hike south of Riomaggiore).
Another option for avoiding the crowds is to book experiences. Cinque Terre is known for sciacchetrà and other white wines made from local bosco, albarola, and vermentino grapes. Timing a tasting at wineries like Cheo in Vernazza during the extremely busy afternoon hours not only gets you away from the bustling streets but also saves you from hiking when the sun is at its most intense.
Where to stay in Cinque Terre
Many travelers prefer to stay in the nearby city of La Spezia, as it offers more hotel options than any of the villages. But staying within one of the five hamlets is key to taking advantage of uncrowded early mornings and late evenings.
For beach lovers, Monterosso is the place to set up camp; it’s the only outpost with access to a proper sandy beach. The village’s Hotel Porto Roca, located right by the starting point of the Sentiero Azzuro, offers expansive sea views from the cliffside and includes local wine tastings and private Jacuzzi bookings.
Related: 7 Beautiful Places in Italy Without the Crowds
This article was originally published in 2024 and most recently updated on June 17, 2025, with current information.
