Commonly known for its beer, chocolate, fries, and waffles, Belgium has another culinary reason to hit the road: more than 300 varieties of cheese. The country has several cheese trails that lead past Trappist abbeys where monks produce semi-hard, washed-rind wheels and family-run dairies making everything from Herve to traditional Walloon boulette.
While there are a variety of routes to choose from, this itinerary combines driving between Belgium’s major cheese regions with bikeable stretches between tastings and hotel stays. The most accessible cycling section is the roughly two-hour, mostly flat ride from Ghent to Bruges, which passes through rural Flanders. Other areas, including Heuvelland, are better suited to shorter cycling loops, allowing you to leave the car at your hotel and explore the surrounding countryside by bike.
Once you arrive, a good place to start is by renting a car in Brussels, along with bikes or a bike rack depending on the rental company. You’ll mainly want to drive between the major stops and do shorter bike rides between cheese tastings, farm visits, and other local stops. On this trip, each destination serves as a base for a combination of driving, cycling, and cheese tastings.
Day 1: Get an intro to Belgian cheeses from Brussels to Pajottenland
- Driving time: 45–60 minutes (14–16 miles) from Brussels to Pajottenland
Belgium is known for Herve, washed-rind varieties, and monastery-made cheeses.
Photo by Denis Erroyaux
Begin your journey in Brussels, where you can enjoy boutique hotels, a slew of cheese shops, and the buzz of the city before venturing to the countryside.
Start with more than 1,001 options at Fromagerie Catherine, including all the typical and atypical Brie, blue, and Parmesan varieties. Or head to La Petite Vache, one of the oldest cheese shops in Brussels. A 10-minute drive away, Le Plateau du Berger is a modern cheesemonger where you can chat with the owners about small producers. This is a good place to get acquainted with Belgian staples like creamy Herve, farmhouse tommes, and washed-rinds. Before leaving the city, consider picking up a curated Belgian cheese box (that’s easy to take along for a picnic or road-trip snack) from Tout un Fromage.
Southwest of Brussels, the rolling hills of Pajottenland are dotted with historic, family-run farmsteads and lambic breweries crafting a wild yeast fermented beer from this region. Look out for cheese highlights like Beverse Kaasmakerij, which produces traditional semi-hard farmhouse varieties, and nearby Geitenboerderij De Volle Maan, celebrated for its fresh chèvre and other soft goat cheeses. Most of the accommodation options here will be rustic family-run types, like Rosario B&B or Auberge du Vieux Cedre.
Related: So You Want to Plan a Cycling Vacation?
Day 2: Enjoy a long, cheese-fueled ride from Pajottenland to Ghent to Bruges
- Driving time: 45 minutes (50.3 miles) from Pajottenland to Ghent
- Cycling time: 2.5 hours (29 miles) from Ghent to Bruges
Next comes Flemish dairy country. About a 45-minute drive from Pajottenland, Ghent has medieval charm and a thriving food scene. If you’re basing yourself here, Pillows Grand Boutique Hotel is a beautiful choice, with its neoclassic grandeur design, a pool- and sauna-equipped spa, and Michelin-starred dining.
While much of the region’s cheesemaking takes place beyond the city, Ghent’s specialist cheese shops offer an excellent introduction. Among the best is Het Hinkelspel, an acclaimed artisan cheesemaker based just outside the city in Zele, whose organic washed-rind, blue, and semi-hard cheeses are available
Whichever direction you choose, you must stop in Ghent for the scenery alone.
Photo by Daniel Esteves/Unsplash
in delicatessens and restaurants across Ghent. For a closer look at production, a short 20-minute drive into the surrounding countryside leads to Little Cheese Farm BV, a small dairy producing handcrafted cheeses.
From Ghent, cycle the mostly flat route through rural Flanders in a little over two hours to Bruges. Or drive most of the way and stop at the welcoming Baliehof Cheese & Dairy Farm before exploring the surrounding countryside by bike.
Alternatively, spend the night in Bruges at Hotel Van Cleef, housed in a historic 17th-century mansion along the canal. It has Italian-style decor, marble bathrooms, a bar, and free bicycle rentals.
Day 3: Bike rolling hills from Ghent/Bruges to Heuvelland
- Driving time: 1 hour (52.6 miles) from Ghent to Heuvelland or 1 hour (48 miles) from Bruges to Heuvelland
- Cycling time: 3 hours (33 miles) loop from Kemmel through Heuvelland and Westhoek
Depending on your overnight stay, the journey from Ghent or Bruges to Heuvelland takes about one to two hours of driving through Belgium’s rolling hill country. For cyclists, this is a hillier and more demanding stretch than the mostly flat ride between Ghent and Bruges, but the climbs come with panoramic countryside views.
For a central base, Kemmel is a practical choice, with easy access to local wineries, restaurants, and scenic cycling routes. Perched on the highest point in Flanders, Hostellerie Kemmelberg offers an elevated countryside stay, with a French Belgian fine dining restaurant, wellness facilities, and views over the hills.
From Kemmel, a full-day cycling loop through Heuvelland and the surrounding Westhoek countryside connects some of the region’s best local producers. On mostly rolling terrain, ride out to Kaasboerderij ‘t Groendal in around 1–1.5 hours for award-winning farmhouse cheeses crafted by a family-run producer recognized at international cheese competitions. Take a break at the biking bar for themed interiors and an extensive beer list. Then stop in Kemmel at De Polka – Brecht en Céline, a local specialty shop known for its curated selection of regional cheeses, charcuterie, and West Flemish products.
Some ancient Trappist monasteries are in ruins and some are still making cheese today.
Photo by Lamio Giancarlo/Shutterstock
Day 4: Explore Trappist monasteries from Heuvelland to Wallonia
- Driving time: 2 hours and 19 minutes (134 miles) from Heuvelland to Wallonia
- Cycling time: 30–45 minutes (6 miles) loop from Namur through the surrounding countryside
Leaving the hills of West Flanders, pass through the quieter Belgian countryside to the heart of Walloon cheese country, known for producing more than 300 artisan varieties. This area is also famous for its Trappist monastery dairies and breweries, where either the cheese or beer is brewed within a monastery and under the supervision of monks who still live there. Along the way, make a stop at Wallonia’s oldest brewery, Brasserie Dubuisson, before venturing to Chant d’Éole, a world-renowned vineyard (awarded the title of Best Sparkling Wine in the World in 2019).
Spend the night in the capital city of Namur, situated between rural cheese regions. Stay in the old town at Les Tanneurs de Namur, a boutique hotel set within restored 17th-century buildings, or retreat to Le Château de Namur, a hilltop castle hotel with sweeping views of the city and the Meuse Valley. If you want to get back on two wheels, use Namur as a base for a short ride through the surrounding countryside before driving to the nearby villages and cheesemakers.
Just a 25-minute drive outside Namur, head to a leisurely lunch at Fromagerie du Samson, a small riverside artisan cheesemaker set in the rolling Condroz countryside.
Before heading south, sample beer and cheese at Maredsous Abbey, which has a cheese factory in a cave, a microbrewery, a distillery, and guided tours of the monastery. Less than an hour’s drive from there, Espace Chimay also offers monastic cheese and beer pairings alongside tours. Participants learn about the history of the abbey, monks, and more than 150 years of Trappist brewing and cheesemaking traditions.
Notre-Dame du Val-Dieu is another abbey that makes craft beer and Herve cheese.
Courtesy of Oivier Michallet
Day 5: Finish with cider and rare raw-milk cheese from Wallonia to Herve
- Driving time: 1 hour (54.2 miles) from Wallonia to Herve
The route to Herve is paved with farms, abbeys, and old food traditions. Begin the day at Herviscope, where interactive exhibits showcase the landscapes, history, and traditions of the Pays de Herve. The visit ends with a tasting of washed-rind Herve cheese, local cider, and apple juice produced in the area.
Continue on to Abbaye Notre-Dame du Val-Dieu for craft beer and local cheese set amid the tranquil pasture lands where Herve cheese culture developed. A short distance away, Le Herve du Vieux Moulin is the last traditional artisan producer of the protected AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) raw-milk Herve cheese. Come for guided tours of the production facilities, an inside look at the aging process, and tastings of both young (doux) and mature (piquant) Herve cheeses.
For a traditional overnight stay before venturing back to the big city, the beautifully restored farmhouse of Côté Verger sits amid orchards and pastures, with just three stylish guest rooms and a seasonal pool.
Related: This 81-Mile Bike-and-Train Loop in Southern France Is All About Gorges, Gîtes, and Farm Lunches
