“I know why this cruise is 10 days,” my husband half-joked as we wandered the Riviera shortly after boarding in Athens. “Because it takes that long to figure out where everything is.”
Indeed, with a capacity of 1,250, the ship seemed large to my husband and me; we have typically sailed on ships with 500 passengers or fewer.
While Oceania Cruises bills itself as small-ship luxury, I would characterize it as medium-size. Whatever the definition, we were a bit hesitant. But we decided to give it a whirl because of Oceania’s reputation for outstanding service and cuisine, as well as Riviera’s very appealing itinerary this past July through the Greek islands and Türkiye.
And, I have to admit, even at full capacity, Oceania delivered a true small-ship experience, with bonuses that usually only larger ships can offer. Those included multiple gourmet dining options, an almost overwhelming choice of excursions, live entertainment, and plenty of indoor and outdoor spaces to socialize or tuck away. And all within a casually elegant, adult-focused, intimate atmosphere.
Most importantly, there was never a need to play that annoying game of running out early to claim a pool lounger. There was also plenty of availability for last-minute spa treatments and, for those of us who are bad at planning ahead, a wide range of adventurous, small-group, and more traditional excursions (for an added fee) that we could book up to the 11th hour.
The writer managed to avoid the crowds in Santorini by opting for an early morning excursion that had her already leaving crowded Oia by 10:30 a.m., when more visitors starting coming in.
Courtesy of Dawid Tkocz/Unsplash
The itinerary
Our 10-day sailing from Athens to Istanbul had daily stops, starting in the popular (read crowded) islands of Santorini and Mykonos. But we managed to avoid most of the congestion with the excursions we booked through Oceania. For instance, in Santorini, we took an 8 a.m. tender boat from where we were anchored off Fira to the northern end of the island to wander through the postcard-perfect, cliffside town of Oia before it got too crowded. The streets of Oia were filling up by 10:30 in the morning, about the time we got on a coach and headed to a private wine tasting and traditional lunch back near Fira.
We skipped the crowds in Mykonos with a private boat tour that took a small group of us to explore the ruins on the island of Delos, the famed birthplace of the twin gods Apollo and Artemis and one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece. After exploring the ruins, we hopped across the bay to play in the cool waters of the Aegean Sea.
Next up: Crete and Rhodes, where the crew showed their true small-ship colors by pulling off a seamless last-minute pivot in schedules after Greek tour operators announced a countrywide, one-day strike, swapping stops in Rhodes and Bodrum, Türkiye, without even a hiccup in the excursion schedules.
From there we wandered off the big ship path, not seeing another cruise ship for the next five days, until our final stop in Istanbul.
Türkiye was truly the highlight for us. In Bodrum, we explored the 15th-century Bodrum Castle before hopping on a traditional gulet for an afternoon cruise to two coves where we swam, enjoyed a few beers, and laughed at the ice cream boat that went by.
On the Turkish island of Bozcaada, a destination mostly frequented by locals, we wandered the cobblestone streets and open-air markets before settling down on the marina to sample raki, an anise brandy similar to ouzo, and Turkish appetizers like pumpkin seed–stuffed grape leaves and “atomic” (very spicy) yogurt. In Istanbul, where we had a full day and overnight, we skipped the traditional tours and instead took a boat ride down the Bosphorus and enjoyed a relaxing final afternoon by the pool before disembarking to spend two more days on our own to explore the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, the city’s famed spice market, and Grand Bazaar.
Oceania puts a strong focus on its culinary programming with optional tours to venues such as open-air food markets like this one in Kusadasi, Türkiye.
Courtesy of Tom Hermans/Unsplash
The food and excursions
Oceania is known for its culinary focus, both on and off the ship. And while I wouldn’t dare try to verify or deny its claim to have “the finest cuisine at sea,” I would agree that it may have the finest food with none of the upcharges that have become common for specialty restaurants on cruise ships.
We had amazing pad thai at Red Ginger, a tender filet at Jacques (named after executive culinary advisor chef Jacques Pépin), perfect gnocchi at Toscana, steak and potatoes at Polo Grill, and a delicious beef bourguignon over noodles in the Grand Dining Room. More casual fare is always available at the outdoor Waves grill and the indoor-outdoor buffet-style Terrace Café, which hosted a special Greek night with a wide range of local dishes, including gyros, moussaka, hummus, fresh fish, spanakopita, and a parade of olives, lamb, and baklava.
For true foodies, there is a broad range of intimate culinary-focused excursions plus a cooking school aboard with daily classes led by two master chefs who focus on the local as well as favorites from the ship’s gourmet restaurants.
On Santorini, we sampled one of the small group excursions Oceania offers in partnership with the culinary travel company Food & Wine Trails. Our expert local guide took us to the Boutari winery, whose founder, Yiannnis Boutari, was a pioneer of the Greek wine industry. After a private tour, we sampled the wines during a traditional lunch of Greek salad, tomato fritters, and lemon chicken. Maybe I’ve been living in Albuquerque too long, but I had no idea Santorini produced a crisp, light white wine that is perfect for any meal on a hot summer day.
From Kusadasi, Türkiye, while history buffs like my husband opted for a day tour to the ancient Greek city of Ephesus and the temple of Artemis, chef instructor Stephanie Hersh, who worked for 14 years as the executive assistant to Julia Child, led a small group of us through the nearby village of Kirazli for lunch and cooking demonstrations at a small boutique hotel, Kirazli Sultan Konak. Along the way we wandered through the village, stopping to sample watermelon and cucumbers at a roadside stand.
Before sitting down to a veritable feast at the hotel, we learned more about the dishes and spices that influence local foods, such as the dried chilies used as a staple of local cuisine, tarhana soup, and had hands-on lessons in rolling stuffed grape leaves and shaping Turkish dumplings, or manti.
There is no jockeying for position around the Riviera’s pool, where there is room enough for everyone aboard.
Courtesy of Oceania Cruises
The ship
Built in 2012, the Riviera is one of the company’s older vessels; it was refreshed with lighter, more contemporary decor in 2022. And like its sister ships, it offers what the company markets as “the luxury of space.”
Indeed, we never had a problem finding a pool chair or a place to sit at one the bars, dining or lounge areas.
The ship has a wide range of cabin sizes, from the 2,000-square-foot owner’s suite to the 174-square-foot inside staterooms. We stayed in a 291-square-foot Concierge Level veranda stateroom, which had a seating area, private teak-floored veranda, and an oversize bathroom with a spacious shower and more drawers and cabinets than we could fill. The Concierge Level also gives you access to a private lounge stocked with snacks and coffee, as well as three free bags of laundry during the trip, garment pressing on arrival, a welcome bottle of champagne, and a complimentary in-room minibar.
In addition to six restaurants, there were several bars, including our favorite outdoor pool bar, Waves, and the piano lounge, Martinis. There were musical reviews and comedy shows in the Riviera Lounge; late night dancing at the top deck lounge, Horizons; a shopping area; small casino; large spa and fitness center; golf center; tennis court; and shuffleboard and table tennis.
With so many venues, it just never felt crowded, even with a full ship. In fact, at times, many of the public spaces felt almost empty.
We also discovered one more bonus of a larger ship: a lot more stairs to climb if you opt to avoid the elevator to help burn off those delicious meals.
To book: Itineraries vary by season. Seven-day sailings between Athens and Istanbul this fall and next year start at $1,999 per person, based on double occupancy.