Rates: From $800 per person per room sharing
The Afar take
More than half of the world’s mountain gorillas live in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The sole luxury accommodation within the park gates is the former Gorilla Forest Camp, now completely rebuilt as Gorilla Forest Lodge, an A&K Sanctuary.
The property reopened in June 2025, and its 10 standalone villas climb a forested slope overlooking the canopy below, each villa blending into the tangle of trees and dense foliage.
The lodge’s contemporary design draws from a habitat-inspired palette of greens, terra-cotta, and earth tones paired with such natural materials as papyrus thatch, banana fiber, and traditional barkcloth. The result conjures a warm, organic feel. Every piece of furniture, says the lodge’s general manager, Azei Lago, is handcrafted in Kampala.
In the main dining room, clusters of inverted tribal baskets hang as chandeliers from vaulted ceilings. A row of floor-to-ceiling French doors runs the length of the space and remains open during the day, keeping the mountain air and birdsong close at hand. Cocktails and light bites are served on the stone terrace, where guests gather each evening around the firepit while Wallen Mutaka, a local elder, plays his handcrafted wooden harp.
A small spa offers a menu of experiences that combine individual treatments. The “Journey of the Mountain Gorilla,” for example, pairs a sacred foot ritual with a full-body and scalp massage. Treatments can also be booked à la carte.
Who it’s for
Physically fit travelers who understand that great adventures don’t always come easy will feel at home here. Wildlife enthusiasts and photographers will, too. Honeymooners and couples looking for a luxury retreat to unwind after an extraordinary—if sometimes demanding—wildlife encounter are well-suited, as are families with children over 15, the minimum age for gorilla trekking.
Mountain gorilla near A&K Gorilla Forest Lodge
Photo by Susan Portnoy (L); photo by Damian Russell/Abercrombie & Kent (R)
Who it’s not for
I’ve been on more than a dozen safaris throughout Africa, but most were enjoyed from the comfort of a vehicle. Gorilla trekking takes the term “trekking” seriously. You may not have to trek far, depending on where the gorillas are, or you may need to hike for hours. Nonetheless, the terrain is steep and uneven, and the gorillas are often in areas without an established trail. Frequent rains are also a factor, adding slippery mud to the equation. Therefore, travelers with difficulty walking, balance issues, or a strong sensitivity to motion sickness may want to consider an alternative. Anyone uneasy around animals in close proximity—or the occasional unusual insect—may also be more comfortable elsewhere.
During my stay, a troop of L’Hoest’s monkeys and later baboons played on my veranda. One morning, I found a large neon-green praying mantis in my bathroom. I relished these encounters, but they’re not for everyone. Gorillas have also been known to wander the property’s network of paths, though sadly, they didn’t during my visit.
The location: Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park
A&K’s tenure in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park in southwest Uganda spans decades, which helps explain its coveted spot inside the park’s boundaries. A five-minute walk brings guests to the Buhoma gate, where rangers lead daily treks. Getting here, however, is not for the faint of heart. The journey begins with an hour-long bush plane flight from Entebbe to Kihihi, followed by a nearly two-hour drive along winding dirt roads so deeply rutted I white-knuckled my seat’s grab handle most of the way. Still, the jostling felt like a fair trade for observing gorillas up close and staying in a lodge that offers real comfort without dulling the experience.
A&K’s tenure in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park in southwest Uganda spans decades, which helps explain its coveted spot inside the park’s boundaries.
The villas at Gorilla Forest Lodge have guests staying in style.
Photo by Damian Russell/Abercrombie & Kent
The rooms
Each villa occupies its own jungle perch and connects to the communal areas by wood-framed, pebble-filled pathways and steps. A large private veranda with two surprisingly comfortable hanging chairs is an ideal spot to sit and listen to the forest.
Glass sliding doors open onto a spacious interior with a king-size canopy bed—warmed by an electric blanket on chilly evenings—and an en suite bathroom includes a deep, circular tub. Personal yoga mats and weights are a thoughtful addition, as are the in-room Leica binoculars and complimentary minibar.
Take note: Villas are numbered 1 through 10, with number 10 being the farthest up the hill and requiring the longest climb. Guests who prefer a shorter walk should request a lower-numbered villa.
The food and drink
The lodge keeps recipes intentionally simple: All meals and drinks are included and served in the airy dining room or out on the terrace. The kitchen follows the same philosophy, with a concise, seasonal à la carte menu—typically two starters, three mains, and a special dessert. Each changes daily.
Dishes highlight local ingredients and regional flavors, such as char-grilled Ugandan lamb chops or Nile perch in coconut curry. Breakfasts, timed around early trekking schedules, include Continental standards alongside classics like oatmeal, omelets, and French toast. Lunch leans more international, with offerings such as matar paneer masala, burrito bowls, or Caprese steak salads.
Food and drink at Gorilla Forest Lodge highlight local ingredients.
Photos by Damian Russell/Abercrombie & Kent
Staff and service
The staff and service really shine here. My villa attendant, in particular, always seemed a few steps ahead. He stocked my minibar with Coke Zeros (I don’t drink coffee or tea in the morning), returned my laundry early so I’d have what I needed for trekking, and appeared just in time to unlock my room when I realized I’d left my key behind—saving me a long downhill-and-back detour.
For gorilla trekking, guests are sent off well-prepared. Ankle gaiters, daypacks with packed lunches, ponchos, walking sticks, bug repellent, and sunscreen are all provided.
Accessibility
Because of the steep terrain, stair-heavy villa access, and the physical demands of gorilla trekking, the lodge does not accommodate guests with mobility-related issues.
Make a trip of it
You can book à la carte directly with the lodge, or opt for an A&K package that includes two days of gorilla trekking, which I recommend. Two days on the trail gave me a greater appreciation for Bwindi’s varied ecosystems and the ways gorilla families move through them. While a silverback leads every troop, each family’s composition is different.
Supercharge your safari with “A&K Sanctuary’s Safari in Kenya and Uganda,” which covers Ol Pejeta Conservancy in northern Kenya and the Masai Mara’s Mara Triangle in the south, two locations I’ve been to multiple times and loved. Then on to Uganda and Bwindi for a couple of days of gorilla trekking.
A nice perk: Each package includes a custom A&K rolling duffel designed to meet bush plane weight and size restrictions. Despite its compact footprint, it held everything I needed, thanks in part to two large compression cubes (also included) that kept gear neatly organized.
