Hanoi

As anyone who has fallen for its evocation of Indochinese charm or witnessed recent introductions such as top-end restaurants, designer boutiques, and even Bentleys will know, the Hanoi of today is not short on class. Nevertheless, this grand old dame of the Orient, which celebrated its millennium in 2010, is as thrilling as it is beguiling, its buzzing streets alive with colorful sights, pungent smells, and often deafening sounds. A fascinating blend of Vietnamese, Chinese, and French influences, Hanoi is changing quickly but maintains a strong identity. Timeless tableaus of Old Asia are easy to spot, although those looking to buy a period piece will leave disappointed. From grandfathers with wispy beards playing chess to youngsters sipping wine at art openings, Hanoi is a stew of many flavors that emerges tasting singularly Vietnamese.

Hanoi  Vietnam - Jan 16 2023: Motorcycle and car traffic at the junction of Hang Bai and Trang Tien next to Trang Tien Plaza on a grey winter's day, Hanoi, Vietnam.

Photo By Andy Soloman/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Hanoi?

The best time to visit Hanoi is undoubtedly March–April or October–December, when springtime and autumn temperatures are cooler. In winter, the city tends to be shrouded in a pall of gray mist. Summer is hot, humid, often wet, and largely uncomfortable.

How to get around Hanoi

Many international airlines fly into Hanoi’s Noi Bai Airport from other parts of Asia and also from European hubs such as Frankfurt, Paris, and London. As of now there are still no direct flights from North America, but plenty of connecting services via cities such as Beijing, Seoul, and Tokyo.

Taxis are generally safe and efficient, though a bit more expensive than other options. Taxi scams are not uncommon but can usually be avoided by riding only with a trusted taxi company. Mai Linh and Hanoi Taxi are two of the capital’s most reputable companies.

Can’t miss things to do in Hanoi

Rent a bicycle from Hanoi Bicycle Collective (www.thbc.vn) in the late afternoon and ride around West Lake, taking in the sunset on the roof terrace at Commune café.

Food and drink to try in Hanoi

Hanoi’s food scene is one of its prime assets. Northern Vietnamese food varies quite significantly from food in the south. It tends to be saltier, and prevalent use of fermentation is a legacy of the region’s relative poverty. Pho (rice-noodle soup with beef or chicken) is Hanoi’s best-known culinary creation. Other greatest hits include banh cuon (rice-paper crepes stuffed with pork and mushroom) and bun cha (vermicelli noodles served with mini pork patties, sliced pork belly, and herbs). The favored drink of Hanoian men is beer. Hanoi Beer is the most popular local brand, while bia hoi—a light draft beer delivered in fresh batches to vendors daily—is as much a part of Hanoian life as honking horns and crazy traffic.

Culture in Hanoi

In Vietnam, Hanoi is regarded as the high-minded counterpart to Ho Chi Minh City’s upstart glitz. The reality is that both cities have plenty of cultural highlights to show, with Hanoi offering everything from reminders and celebrations of Vietnam’s tumultuous past to cutting-edge art galleries and regular live music events.

Late January to mid February, you can breathe in the excitement of Tet, the lunar New Year (the date each year changes based on the Chinese lunar calendar). The lead-up to the celebration sees the city come alive with displays of moon cakes, red banners, joss sticks, and red envelopes for giving lucky money (mung tuoi) to children. February and March are the months to join the mass Buddhist pilgrimage to the Perfume Pagoda, just south of Hanoi.

Local travel tips for Hanoi

Women shouldn’t wear long skirts to any of Hanoi’s many bia hoi joints; toilets are rudimentary at best, and the predominantly male clientele tend to relieve themselves on the floor. When visiting Hanoi, make sure you choose your season right: December to March can be terribly gray and miserable. April–May is gorgeous. Summer can be compared to a steamy Peruvian jungle. And the weather finally relents in autumn, when the sky turns azure with fresher days.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
Writer Anya von Bremzen takes a two-week-long Silversea cruise involving bubble baths, lots of food, and the ancient art of “villain hitting.”
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Known locally as Ho Tay and situated just northwest of the Old Quarter, the city’s largest lake is the backdrop to this whitewashed hotel, whose layout fittingly mimics the shape of the open lotus flowers that line its shores. The main building houses about half the rooms, most of the lounges and restaurants, and a bright atrium lobby with an elegant 23-foot crystal chandelier for a focal point. Lit at night by torches, a hedge-trimmed walkway leads to a small island where you’ll find the Sunset Bar (no surprises on the name), as well as three pavilions with additional rooms built on the lake. Accommodations start at a generous 460 square feet and feature contemporary furnishings, marble and wood floors, stone wall accents, and Vietnamese timber shutters, as well as roomy soaking tubs, padded leather headboards, and private balconies with views of the lake or Hanoi’s skyline.
Every year, the guys behind Hanoi‘s Club for the Appreciation of Music and Art (CAMA) bring some of the finest left-field musical talent from the region to the city’s American Club for a one-day shindig. The event usually takes place in May.
There’s a pleasing bit of cognitive dissonance happening at Meliá Hanoi. Housed within a green-glass, part-cylindrical tower, the hotel tempers sleek European-style hospitality (think streamlined gray and cream furnishings and high-tech amenities like flat-screen TVs and satellite channels) with touches of local influence: depictions of pagodas and traditional gateways figure in giant murals along the walls and central column in the lobby, and lantern-inspired pendant lighting hangs in the guest rooms. The hotel sits in theHoan Kiem district, within walking distance of the lake and the Old Quarter, making it an ideal base for urban exploration, but there’s also plenty on site to keep you occupied, from the Mediterranean buffet and the palm-fringed outdoor swimming pool to the fitness center and Marquee Club, a nighttime haunt that attracts young Hanoians intent on drinking and dancing into the wee hours.
From its striking colonial-inspired exterior and elegant marble lobby to the uninterrupted views of the Hanoi Opera House, the Hotel de l’Opera evokes the spirit of an old world performance hall. The Old Quarter hotel’s cynosure is the nine-story atrium where velvet jewel-toned sofas, tasseled curtains, and an emerald tufted-silk wall behind the marble concierge counter have the dramatic effect of a theater foyer. The theme continues in the guest rooms: Moody walls, Hollywood-style vanity mirrors, and metallic accents nod to performers’ dressing rooms. Take in the sights from the third-floor pool terrace, which looks straight down Trang Tien Street to the iconic landmark, then head to the Fée Verte bar for cocktails before dinner at Café Lautrec, honoring the 19th-century painter and Hanoi’s ubiquitous French influences.
A 1901 landmark in Hanoi’s French Quarter, the colonial-style Sofitel Legend Metropole has long been a celebrity magnet, welcoming presidents, ambassadors, and literary and cinematic royalty into its marble lobby. Somerset Maugham and Graham Greene both wrote books here (The Gentleman in the Parlour and The Quiet American, respectively); Charlie Chaplin and Paulette Goddard celebrated their honeymoon at the property; and Jane Fonda and Joan Baez took to the bomb shelter beneath the hotel during air raids (book the complementary Path of History Tour, held every day at 5 and 6 p.m., for a chance to see where they hid out).

The 364 guest rooms are divided between two wings: The historic Metropole section has decor shaped by French architecture and Vietnamese culture (think wood floors, louver windows, bird-cage lampshades, and porcelain light fixtures); the newer wing, opened in 1996 just across the traffic circle from the Opera House, has a strong Neoclassical edge with rooms in dramatic red, black, and white. With its green awning, filigree ironwork, and outdoor wood-deck seating, La Terrasse has the feel of a Parisian café, while Le Beaulieu restaurant serves classic French fare and a decadent Sunday brunch. Spices Garden showcases Vietnamese flavors, and three drinking dens—sleek Angelina, gentlemanly Le Club Bar, and poolside Bamboo Bar—appeal to every kind of spirits lover. Between the central courtyard garden and the pool sit the SoFit gym and Le Spa, with eight rooms for soothing East-meets-West treatments.
Located in Hanoi’s business district, just two blocks from Tran Quang Khai highway (where it’s a quick 18-mile ride to Noi Bai International Airport), Hilton Hanoi Opera is in demand with the corporate crowd. Built to resemble the performance venue directly opposite, the Beaux Arts structure’s two-story lobby makes a lasting impression with floor-to-ceiling marble columns and a French crystal chandelier shaped like an inverted wedding cake. Rooms feature elements of traditional Vietnamese design, plus double-glazed windows that promise quiet, accent walls outfitted in floral wallpaper, and bathrooms with separate tubs and walk-in showers. Spend the day admiring opera house views from the outdoor pool, which is heated in the winter, then sit down at Ba Mien to savor such regional specialties as cha ca (turmeric fish with noodles) and roasted pork with green papaya.
A lilliputian property on a busy Old Quarter street, Essence has an unassuming entrance that belies its stylish interiors. Renovated in 2017, the eight-story hotel’s intimate rooms are well-appointed with velvet headboards, lantern-like pendant lighting, and writing desks with laptops and reliable Wi-Fi—plus decent soundproofing to block out the Hanoi bustle. Turndown service includes flower petals sprinkled on the bed and towels folded into animal shapes (swans are a favorite). Fresh seasonal fruit such as mango, papaya, and pineapple and complimentary mini-bar snacks are restocked daily. Head downstairs to dine on updated Vietnamese specialties like spring rolls and bun cha (barbecue pork) or hit the town: The hotel is surrounded by jewelry and clothing shops, cafés, and bars.
Local artisans benefit from this nonprofit organisation, which sells their crafts such as bags, textiles, scarves and trinkets at fair market prices. Items are of high quality and prices are reasonable.
Unlike many of the cookie-cutter Vietnamese restaurants in Hanoi, there’s a good reason why many tour groups are brought here for their lunch. There are a la carte menus on offer, but most guests prefer to opt for the “popular” meal, which involves pointing at steaming vats containing things like Chinese braised pork and fat juicy ribs.
With a fantastic location by Hoan Kiem Lake and some of the best-prepared Vietnamese food in the Old Quarter, this stylish venue is onto a winner. The dishes here are very much old-style Vietnamese. There are no bells and whistles or attempts at fusion, but down-home creations such as pork steamed in coconut, fried tofu with lemongrass, and shrimp in chili sauce are right on the money.