Key West and the Florida Keys

Extending southwest from the tip of the Florida mainland, the Florida Keys are a dotted line of islands and spits of sand, all linked by 120 miles of the Florida Keys Overseas Highway. The Keys also seem linked by a preferred lifestyle of bare feet, hammocks, and fishing. Down at the end of the archipelago, though, Key West adds some extra energy to the laidback vibe with its festivals, drag queens, and actual nightlife.

Key Largo Pier / Marina With Ocean View

Photo By Inspired By Maps/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Key West and the Florida Keys?

While the weather is warm year-round, the best time to visit the Florida Keys is during the dry season, between November and April. That, of course, is also the high season, so room rates will be high. If you’re looking for fewer people, days that aren’t too hot, and decent hotel availability, visit between the rush of spring break and late May. The hurricane season runs from June through November, but the for those in the mood to gamble, those humid months also bring the best room rates.

How to get around Key West and the Florida Keys

If you choose to drive (and unless your ultimate destination is Key West, you undoubtedly will), you’ll find yourself driving along the Overseas Highway and its 42 bridges. Domestic and international airlines offer flights to Miami International Airport, but you can also fly directly into Key West International Airport on a number of domestic airlines (Delta, United, American, and Silver Airways). Another way to get to Key West is via ferry from Fort Myers or Marco Island on Florida’s Gulf coast. Key West is only a 2-by-4-mile island, so if you’re staying here, you can skip driving and get around on foot, bike, or scooter.

Can’t miss things to do in Key West and the Florida Keys

All along the archipelago, the nightly sunset is cause for celebration. In Key West, crowds gather at Mallory Square to boisterously bear witness to the sun’s descent into the Gulf. Other destinations in the Keys celebrate more quietly, but cocktails are almost always involved.

Fishing is still a vital part of the Keys culture. Even if you don’t want to drop a hook, try to get out on the water while you’re visiting, and do your best to keep the local commercial fishing ventures afloat by indulging in as much fresh seafood as you can. Conch, anyone?

Key West is closer to Cuba than it is to Miami, and this geographical blessing shines through in its culture and cuisine. To honor that connection, make your way to the iconic Southernmost Point marker that marks 90 miles to Cuba.

First-time visitors shouldn’t miss the home of one of Key West’s most celebrated residents—the Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum. The Old Town house looks exactly how it did when the writer resided in the Conch Republic, and descendants of his six-toed cat Snowball still roam the grounds.

Food and drink to try in Key West and the Florida Keys

You’ll find a wealth of fresh seafood on the region’s menus—especially stone crab, lobster, fish, and conch. On the northern end of the island chain, cuisine often takes a Caribbean turn with coconut and mango making plate appearances (and showing up in cocktails, too). The food in Key West shows a distinctly Cuban influence, especially at breakfast when a cup of cafecito and some toasted bread will soothe the lingering headache from last night.

The Keys dining experience wouldn’t be complete without key lime pie. In Key Largo, Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen serves up a popular slice, and Islamorada’s Green Turtle Inn has diehard fans. In Key West, several shops claim to serve the best one in town (some with mile-high meringue, others with a modest dollop of whipped cream), so you should conduct a scientific test and decide for yourself.

Culture in Key West and the Florida Keys

Chances are, you won’t be thinking about museums while sunning on the beaches and lagoons of South Florida, but the region *is* a magnet for fine artists and writers, so you may inadvertently be exposed to some culture. Music—and not just the works Jimmy Buffett, (though, goodness knows, you’re likely to hear a few verses of Margaritaville during your visit) —has a way of inserting itself into the daily Keys experience.

The region’s position at the edge of the continent means history, too—in the forms of crumbling military installations to be explored and lots of pirate lore. Key West’s Mel Fisher Maritime Museum holds the artifacts salvaged from shipwrecks off the Keys, including vessels carrying Africans bound for slavery, as well as booty from a pair of 17th-century Spanish galleons.

Key West’s Mardi Gras atmosphere permeates the island year-round and can be experienced on any given day by heading into one of the Old Town bars or by attending the Sunset Celebration along with sword-swallowers and fire-jugglers. The town also has its fair share of literary haunts and a visit to the Ernest Hemingway Home & Museum and the tiny Tennessee Williams Exhibit will make you feel part of the scene.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
These Florida Keys hotels are blessed with warm sunshine, fresh seafood, and stellar beaches—and are the perfect passport-free alternative to the Caribbean.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Located on Fleming Street in the heart of Old Town Key West, the Marquesa has everything you might expect from a romantic coastal-Florida retreat. Wide porches overlook lush gardens and a bijou pool at the center of the complex, and brick paths shaded by large palms and tropical foliage give the 1884 Greek Revival–style property a secret hideaway feel. It’s understandable if you want to hole up in the guest rooms, which reside in traditional clapboard conch houses and are furnished with an eclectic collection of wood pieces sourced from around the world. In 2018, Marquesa 4-1-4 opened across the street, featuring a new compound of three buildings around a central swimming pool and courtyard. After a day spent exploring nearby Duval Street, make your way back to Café Marquesa, which is perennially packed with locals and visitors enjoying fresh seafood and an inventive menu.
Set at the end of Duval Street, near Sunset Pier and Mallory Square, Pier House takes advantage of its waterfront address with three tiers of balconies and a pocket-sized stretch of private beach. Its location means guests are within walking distance of all of Old Town’s highlights, from the Clinton Square Market to the Harry S. Truman Little White House. Many come to follow in the footsteps of the mayor of Margaritaville himself, Jimmy Buffet, who played his first gig in town in the hotel’s now infamous Chart Room Bar. Order a rum runner, then head to the heated outdoor pool; though it’s on the small side, it has sweet views to Key West Bight. After an adventure-packed day, the rooms and suites offer low-key comfort, decorated with traditional furniture and local art and overlooking the ocean or tropical gardens and koi ponds. Equally serene is the full-service spa, one of the few on Key West.
Right on Key West’s famous Sunset Pier and next to Mallory Square, Ocean Key is at the center of the action, proven by the flocks of tourists who descend on the pier every evening at sundown. Inside the resort, the contemporary rooms are decorated in tropical colors like bright lime and turquoise, and have bathrooms with rainfall showers and whirlpool tubs and private balconies with views of the Gulf of Mexico or buzzy Duval Street. The angular pool is surrounded by cabanas and day beds; grab a ringside seat for the daily fashion show at Liquid, the kicking poolside bar. Prefer a quieter experience? The spa has a full range of treatments and packages that lean heavily on Asian traditions and ingredients, from Balinese massage to a Javanese rice-and-turmeric body scrub.
Key West doesn’t have many swimmable beaches, but this elegant 1920 oceanfront resort sits on the largest private one in town—an 1,100-square-foot strand punctuated with tall palms. While the shoreline itself is on a rocky shelf, a long dock extends out to the shallows for laps and snorkeling. Just off the beach, two large pools are set into green lawns and lush landscaping in front of the Spanish-style main building, which is on the National Register of Historic Places. The hotel’s wooden coffered ceilings, arched entryways, red-tile roofs, and other key architectural details recall the hotel’s glamorous heyday, while the clean, refreshed rooms are entirely modern, with sleek wood-framed beds, white linens and curtains, and ocean views. Children under 16 stay for free and babysitting is available for adults who want to take a break at the Spa al Mare, which has an open-air cabana right on the sand for al fresco massages and treatments.
Both charming and affordable (it doesn’t charge a resort fee), this intimate 37-room property also has an unbeatable central location—near the heart of Old Town and just a few blocks from Duval Street and Mallory Square. Part of the Historic Key West Inns collection, the Key Lime Inn features classic Key West style with a 19th-century main house highlighted by a double-height colonnaded entrance and green shutters. Rooms follow suit with high ceilings and classical proportions, and beds are done up in crisp, white linens; most have sitting areas and private walkouts or porches to encourage lingering. Though short on amenities, the grounds are shaded by tall palms and dotted with Caribbean-style clapboard cottages painted in cheery colors with gingerbread trim, and all offer free WiFi. And if the beach doesn’t call you, a large wood deck surrounds the heated outdoor pool, and hammocks and porch swings are placed around the property for maximum relaxation.
Latitudes is the acclaimed restaurant at the Sunset Key Cottages, on Sunset Key, a small private island accessible only by boat. Take the ferry across the Key West Harbor—your scheduled ferry time is your reservation time. The dreamy ride across the gulf waters sets the tone for the rest of the evening. While most restaurants in Key West have flexible dress codes, if any, Latitudes is a place you should break out the nice clothes. If the weather’s nice, ask to eat on the patio, which is decorated with twinkling lights wrapped around the green palms that surround the courtyard, and features tables set with white cloths and candles.
Chances are that when you return home after your trip to Key West, someone will ask you if you went to the Green Parrot. It’s that kind of iconic bar, the kind your parents’ friends ended up at over spring break in college long ago. The bar started as a local grocery store about a hundred years ago; the building became the Brown Derby, a bar that was popular first with the submarine sailors from the naval base down the street.


When the naval base closed in the ‘70s, the bar transitioned into a hangout for fishermen and local sailors and the hippies that began to drift into town. The Green Parrot still has the air of a honky-tonk, lit exclusively by spotlight and neon, with a roster of almost-nightly live music, mostly of the bluesy, rollicking sort.
The Southernmost Point buoy, at the corner of Whitehead Street and South Street, marks not only the spot for the southernmost point of the continental United States but also the distance (90 miles) to the next country, Cuba. The buoy, installed by the city in 1983, is visited by thousands of people each day. (Before the buoy, a small sign stood at the spot alongside a line of seashells for purchase.) Taking a photo in front of the buoy is imperative for a first visit to Key West, so bring a tripod, or ask a stranger to snap a few shots. Buskers play music, and street vendors sell food and goofy souvenirs and slash open coconuts to drink.
The Key West Shipwreck Museum transports visitors back to 1856, when the young city’s port had more than 100 ships passing through daily. Because of the coral reefs, shipwrecks were common at the time and salvage became a thriving business. At the museum, visitors will meet an actor portraying Asa Tift, an actual Key West citizen whose family made a good living salvaging, or saving, crew, passengers, and cargo from ships that were wrecked on the reefs. He’ll tell the stories of the many wrecks and recoveries of Tift’s time. The museum’s immersive experience includes films and historic artifacts, including the wreckage of the Isaac Allerton, which sank off the coast in 1895.
Blue Heaven is a favorite in Key West—Jimmy Buffett even mentioned it in one of his famous beach tunes. The whimsical courtyard is filled with brightly colored tables and chairs, twinkly lights, foliage, and stray animals. The bar and restaurant is owned and operated by a husband and wife whose creative backgrounds in art and literature inspired the space. There’s a mini art gallery, a sandwich shop, and roaming roosters on the grounds. Once a boxing ring (with Ernest Hemingway as referee), the spot now pays tribute to the Caribbean, with bright accents and Cajun seasonings on the menu. Menu highlights include the scallops, which are locally celebrated, served with white wine and lemon butter with tomatoes, onions, mushrooms, and lots of garlic. Locals say the Key lime pie is one of the best in town.