Los Angeles

Swallow your preconceived notions with a shot of wheatgrass: Los Angeles is a cocktail of culture. Sure, there are the over-the-top poolside parties, but the real L.A. is a diverse blend of characters that drive pop culture, inspire counterculture, and embrace all ethnicities. Nestled between the mountains, the desert, and the sea, L.A. beckons locals and travelers alike to engage in an active and healthy lifestyle. Avocado is always on the menu, a yoga class is always about to start, and a celebrity sighting is just around the corner. But truly the best way to learn is to listen: Getting to know L.A. can take years, so insider knowledge is invaluable.

A view of a person at sunset biking down a ramp towards a road just to the left of the ramp in Los Angeles, California. A the beach is to the left of the road, with houses and palm trees in between the road and ocean. Hazy mountains are in the background.

Courtesy of Shutterstock.com

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Los Angeles?

Los Angeles has a moderate temperature year-round, so any time is a good time to visit. If you’re looking for warm nights, wait until August or September, because “June Gloom” delays the start of summer with overcast skies. L.A. may not experience much seasonal change, but the temperatures can fluctuate over the course of each day—so be prepared to bring some light layers just in case things do cool down.

How to get around Los Angeles

If possible, drive into Los Angeles for convenient transportation. Otherwise, fly into LAX and rent a car—cabs are pricey, and fares add up quickly. In sprawling L.A., a car is essential, so use Waze for quicker routes to dodge traffic jams. For alternatives, try Uber or Lyft to avoid cab hassles. While L.A. is car-centric, some neighborhoods are walkable and bike-friendly, offering a break from the city’s traffic. Public transit is improving, but check routes ahead of time, as locals may not know the best connections.

Local travel tips for Los Angeles

Avoid the crowded center. The best and freshest parts of L.A. are on the fringes: Venice, Santa Monica, Los Feliz, Silver Lake, and Echo Park. Exceptions may be made for unique spots in other neighborhoods like West Hollywood, Downtown, and Culver City, but for those who like to wander and discover, the border neighborhoods are your best bets. Start the week off right with free concerts on Mondays at Hollywood’s Bardot. Or, head to popular east side music venues like the Satellite, which hosts monthly residency nights for the indie elite.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
The Pacific Ocean is a force that calls to some to jump in and join the dolphins that frequent its waters. Temperatures are warmest in August and September, but wet suits are available to rent year-round. Go surfing or take a stand-up paddleboard lesson to more fully appreciate the SoCal spirit and connection to the waves. For a more passive yet still exhilarating way to enjoy the coast, you can parasail above the waves or join a sailing charter from Marina Del Rey.
The mecca of bodybuilding in the United States is Venice Beach, California. Venice Beach is the place where Gold’s Gym was founded, and the epicenter of it all is here at Muscle Beach. Between the boardwalk and the sand you will find an amazing outdoor gym full of bodybuilding equipment and larger than life, fitness-crazed men and women. On July 4th of each year, there’s a fierce competition—open to all amateur athletes—to crown Mr. and Mrs. Muscle Beach. Watch the fun festivities, spot some celebrities, and then stroll the world-famous Venice Beach boardwalk.
Union Station is as stunning as it is rich in history, and continues to be a vital hub for L.A. rail, metro, and bus transport. On the outside, the building resembles an art deco riff on the old California missions; inside, the inlaid travertine and terra-cotta floors show the sort of detail work so rare in modern depots. Local tip: Settle into one of the giant leather chairs in the cavernous waiting room and immerse yourself in the city’s seedy side with Chandler’s noir classic, The Big Sleep. (Without a ticket you can’t enter the waiting room, but you can at least enjoy the Navajo patterning on the station floors.)
The Santa Monica Pier embodies what Southern California is all about: fun in the sun. Popular with tourists and locals alike, this iconic boardwalk adjacent to the Pacific Ocean—filled with all the amusement rides, midway games, fried food, ice cream and cotton candy you can dream up—is a fantastic place to spend a nice day. My favorite attractions are the Santa Monica Pier Aquarium and the world’s first solar-paneled Ferris wheel, which provides breathtaking beach and ocean views as you ride ‘round and ‘round. Be sure to dip your toes in the soft Santa Monica sand, too. Nearby, you’ll find the Third Street Promenade, a bustling entertainment district filled with wonderful eateries and shops.
When the Last Bookstore debuted in 2005, the name was meant to be ironic. Now, in a world of Kindles and iPads, digital books (or at least digital bookstores) are the norm, and brick-and-mortar establishments such as the Last Bookstore are a dying breed. That hasn’t stopped this Downtown L.A. icon from growing. The shop still buys, sells, and trades new and used books and vinyl records just as it did when its doors first opened over a decade ago, and it shows no signs of stopping anytime soon. Come in to browse the store’s impressive collection, to hang out for an afternoon, or to catch author talks and more. The Last Bookstore puts on some killer events, and past speakers have included the cast of Portlandia, How to Kill a City author Peter Moskowitz, and Holocaust survivors. Oh, and they occasionally give away free concert tickets on their Instagram account, so it’s worth a follow even if you’re not a die-hard bookworm.
Sitting near Mount Hollywood in Griffith Park, the Griffith Observatory has a vantage point that allows visitors great views of the HOLLYWOOD sign during the day, and even more fantastic views of the stars at night. The space has plenty of telescopes for stargazing, but it’s also a great informal setting for learning about the universe, thanks to a large exhibit space and a 290-seat planetarium that puts on rotating shows about topics ranging from the northern lights to water—and possibly alien life—on other planets. There is no entrance fee for the institution and just a small admission price for the planetarium itself.
Encyclopedic is one way to describe L.A.’s oldest art institution. Sprawling is another. The Los Angeles County Museum of Art opened in its current Miracle Mile location in 1965 and has not stopped growing, becoming the largest museum in the western United States. Its 135,000-piece collection spans 6,000 years of art. It also includes some of the museum world’s most photographed outdoor sculptures, such as Michael Heizer’s mind-boggling Levitated Mass and Chris Burden’s Urban Light. The museum hosts some 40 exhibits per year, plus a dynamic schedule of events, such as Tuesday film matinees and picnic-friendly Jazz at LACMA (held weekly on “summer” weekend nights—which in L.A. means April to November). While anyone can join free tours throughout the day, docents also lead customized experiences for a fee, which will take you through the galleries before or after hours to marvel at artists as wide-ranging as Henri Matisse, Ai Weiwei, Diego Rivera, and Catherine Opie. Kids are also catered to with a special gallery, Sunday activities, and a free membership, which includes entry for them plus an adult guest any day of the year. Pro tips: Plan to spend several hours at the museum, fueling up on wood-fired pizza midway through the day at Ray’s & Stark Bar. And if you’d like to experience the outdoor sculptures without the crowds, go early in the morning or on Wednesdays, when the museum is closed and gloriously quiet.
The trek to the HOLLYWOOD sign may be the most famous L.A. hike to outsiders, but if you’re looking for downtown views, celebrity sightings, and a typical L.A.-style glamour hike (not necessarily strenuous, but very fashionable), the 3.3-mile Runyon Canyon loop is your best bet. You’ll still get a great view of those giant letters, but you’ll also be able to spot the who’s who of the Hollywood Hills, with plenty of locals out on their routine pre-Sunday-brunch ritual. (And there are lots of grade-A brunch spots nearby, such as the Griddle Café, if you too are in search of a pancake-heavy menu.) The trails are dog-friendly, and dog-loving Angelenos take full advantage, so your pooch will have no shortage of company if you decide to bring him along.
When it comes to music venues in Los Angeles, there isn’t anywhere more sacred to rock and punk fans than the Echo. Located in the now-hipster neighborhood of Echo Park, the concert venue has hosted plenty of legends, including Beck, Green Day, and LCD Soundsystem. Its sister venue, the Echoplex, located just below the Echo, has an equally impressive roster, with the Rolling Stones, Nine Inch Nails, and Thom Yorke having performed there in the past. These sister clubs have additionally provided a launchpad for the careers of Foster the People, the Airborne Toxic Event, and Warpaint, to name just a few. Despite being a place to catch shows by heavyweights in the rock sphere and to see soon-to-be-famous bands before they hit it big, the Echo and Echoplex are intimate spaces that let you get close to the stage and all the heart-pounding, drumstick-spinning, sweat-dripping action.
Palsaik Samgyupsal, which means, “Eight Colors of Pork,” is a divine discovery for a bacon lover like myself. Seriously, what can be better than a restaurant that specializes in flavored bacon? You can’t help but salivate as marinated slices of pork sizzle and pop on the grill in front of you. The eight flavors—Original, Wine, Ginseng, Garlic, Herb, Curry, Miso Paste, and Red Pepper Paste—take your tastebuds on a delicious journey as K-Pop music videos play on flat screens in the background. There is always a crowd, so make sure to call ahead, get there early, and prepare yourself for a massive meal of meat and endless sides.