Abu Dhabi

Abu Dhabi is the largest of the seven emirates that make up the United Arab Emirates (UAE) and the nation’s capital city. Spanning 26,000 square miles, it’s home to spectacular landscapes ranging from the deserts of the vast Rub’ Al Khali Empty Quarter to palm-filled oases and more than 200 natural islands that speckle the warm waters of the Arabian Sea. Established as the capital in 1971 with the founding of the United Arab Emirates, Abu Dhabi city has a more relaxed feel than nearby crowd-pleaser Dubai. But it still gives visitors a memorable experience, thanks to its impressive amount of sunshine, appealing venues for action and adventure, exceptional cultural landmarks (including the Louvre Abu Dhabi), fantastic dining, and enviable shopping. Whether you choose to spend your days exploring inland oases, kayaking through mangroves, climbing dunes, or sipping sundowners at the top of the iconic Etihad Towers, Abu Dhabi’s welcome is always warm, and it’s a place where you’ll feel true Arabian hospitality.

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Photo by Tasneem Alsultan

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Abu Dhabi?

Abu Dhabi’s sunny and warm winters are perfect for escaping colder climes in the Northern Hemisphere. The mild temperatures from mid-October through March make for a comfortable visit, compared to summertime temperatures that can hover around 100°F.

The UAE’s workweek used to run from Sunday to Thursday, but in 2022 the government shifted it to Monday to Friday, with weekends falling on Saturday and Sunday.

If your stay occurs during the month of Ramadan, there may be some restrictions regarding venues that serve food and drink during daylight hours, although restaurants in most hotels and some shopping centers will largely be open to cater to those who are not fasting. Note that the majority of Muslims throughout the UAE will observe the fast during daylight hours and that restaurants and hotels will put on lavish iftar meals to break the fast at sunset. Joining one can be a way to experience the Holy Month and to feel the spirit of this special time. Ramadan dates are different each year, so check the calendar.

How to get around Abu Dhabi

Major airlines and their partners fly directly into Abu Dhabi International Airport (AUH). Etihad Airways, based in Abu Dhabi, is the national carrier and flies routes to destinations around the world. Neighboring Dubai International Airport (DXB) is another port of entry and is also served by major carriers, including its own airline, Emirates. The drive from from DXB to downtown Abu Dhabi is about 90 minutes. The newer Al Maktoum International Airport (DWC)—also in Dubai—is 30 minutes closer to Abu Dhabi but is not yet served by as many commercial carriers.

Unless you plan on staying in one neighborhood, like Sir Bani Yas Island or the Corniche, a car is the best way to navigate Abu Dhabi. Cars drive on the right like they do in the U.S. Parking can be a challenge at busy times and a color scheme denotes which spots fall into which payment category, but taxis are reasonably priced should you decide to leave the car behind. Taxis originating at the airport cost slightly more. Typically taxis take cash, but it’s also possible to pay by credit card or Apple Pay by downloading the Abu Dhabi Taxi app. Uber and local equivalent Careem are also available. They usually work out to be slightly more expensive than local taxis but can be convenient, especially if you’re going to a location that a taxi driver might not immediately know.

Can’t miss things to do in Abu Dhabi city

The Emirati capital is a seaside city with a five-mile corniche lined with hotels, restaurants, and beaches—both public and next to stylish beach clubs—to enjoy along its stretch.

No one should visit Abu Dhabi without going to the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. The impressive white domes, inlaid stones, chandeliers, carpets, glass, and light come together in a marvelous, architecturally masterful place of worship that dazzles by day; it transforms into a place of reflection by evening, when the arches and columns are reflected in the water features. The Qasr Al Watan presidential palace, which opened to the public in 2019, is also worth a visit for its sheer scale and the striking craftsmanship that went into its construction. Thrill seekers will want to head to Ferrari World on Yas Island to try the world’s fastest roller coaster, and neighboring Saadiyat Island is blessed by some of the most beautiful waters in the region: warm, clear, calm, and inviting, with a shade of turquoise that’s almost impossible to believe. Abu Dhabi is also home to Jean Nouvel’s architectural masterpiece, the Louvre Abu Dhabi, and will soon welcome the interfaith Abrahamic Family House, combining a mosque, synagogue, and church and due to open in 2023, as well as the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi (in 2025).

Food and drink to try in Abu Dhabi

More than 200 nationalities live in the UAE, and you can find food from nearly everywhere in the world. Don’t miss the opportunity to try Emirati food in the capital, as well as other favorites from across the Arab world, like shawarma, shish tawook (skewers of marinated chicken), fatoosh salad (mixed greens and fried bread topped with a dressing of sumac and pomegranate molasses), kunafa (a sweet dessert made from spun pastry), and kebabs. If you have a hankering for Japanese, Peruvian, Italian, Greek, pan-Asian, regional Indian, or Afghani cuisine, you’ll find it here. The first Michelin Guide to Abu Dhabi arrived in 2022, with three restaurants receiving stars. On the other end of the scale, Visit Abu Dhabi has recently compiled a list of Urban Treasures, low-key, long-established outlets such as bakeries, sweet shops, and restaurants, some of which have been operating since before the UAE became a nation.

Culture in Abu Dhabi

The skyline of modern-day Abu Dhabi may be filled with gleaming skyscrapers, but this is a place that values its culture, and there’s a depth and richness of tradition here. In the center of the city, the Qasr Al Hosn fort, parts of which date back to 1790, is a good place to get an understanding of Abu Dhabi’s evolution, and at the adjacent House of Artisans you can learn about traditional local crafts from the craftspeople who make them. At the nearby Abu Dhabi Cultural Foundation, housed in a building that fuses brutalism and Arabian modernist touches, you can discover contemporary art from the region.

Holidays are marked by large celebrations and feasts. During the Muslim Holy Month of Ramadan, the evening iftar, the meal at sunset that breaks the day’s fast, is a time of celebration. For National Day in December, the town paints itself red, green, black, and white—the colors of the flag. Most public holidays, such as Ramadan, Eid Al Fitr, and Eid Al Adha, follow the Islamic lunar calendar. This shifts backwards in respect to the Gregorian calendar, so be sure to check what festivities might occur during your stay.

Local travel tips for Abu Dhabi

A hospitable city, Abu Dhabi warmly welcomes visitors, regularly appearing on lists of the world’s safest places. Travelers are unlikely to encounter any crime here, but if you’re driving, do bear in mind that it can feel fairly intense on the highways, with tailgating being common. Although Abu Dhabi is less conservative than some of the other emirates and neighboring Gulf countries, save your short shorts and tube tops for the hotel—while it is a seaside city, wearing beachwear and overly revealing clothing in public may be considered offensive. Also, do note the laws of the country. For instance, it’s illegal to swear or make rude gestures at others, and being drunk in public is a definite no-no.

Practical Information

The official language of the UAE is Arabic though those who just speak English can wander Abu Dhabi confident that they’ll be able to communicate without having to engage in faux sign language or pointing.

On the electric front, you can plug in as long as you have adapters for 220 v. and round prongs (plug types C, D, and G).

Guide editors

Jonathan Burr is an assistant archivist at NYU Abu Dhabi’s Akkasah Center for Photography.

Andrea Rip was born in Vancouver, Canada, and raised in Washington State. Andrea calls North America home and favors the Pacific states. She most recently lived and worked in Honolulu, Hawai‘i, where she relished long weekends on the neighboring islands and searched for the best fish taco on O‘ahu.

Yorkshire-born writer Nicola Chilton has lived in Mexico, Japan, Hong Kong, and Thailand and has called the United Arab Emirates home for the past eight years. She loves exploring the country’s deserts, mountains, oases, and beaches, as well as the UAE’s neighbors throughout the Gulf.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
Sparkling waters, otherworldly sand dunes, and palm-shaded oases await near Abu Dhabi’s most exciting hotels.
These hotels know how to make an entrance.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Motorists on the 100-mph superhighway between Dubai and Abu Dhabi can tune in to a radio-guided art gallery.
With the rise of IMAX, cultural institutions and museums have become the places to see repertory films on the big screen. Abu Dhabi has its very own world-class repertory-film program—and best of all, it’s free to attend the screenings. Located at the Manarat al-Saadiyat complex in the city’s Saadiyat Cultural District, Cinema Space shows films from all over the world, including restored classics and family movies. In the past year, Cinema Space has featured—among many worthy films—a stunning restoration of Stanley Donen’s Two for the Road, Disney’s 20,000 Leagues under the Sea, and the Oscar-nominated Macedonian film Before the Rain. Check its site to see what cinematic treasure will be showing when you’re in Abu Dhabi.
Abu Dhabi did not miss out on the speakeasy trend, and while the name of the Hidden Bar is a bit on the nose, it’s a perfect cocktail destination before dinner on Al-Maryah Island—as well as a great dim-sum spot in its own right. Tucked away behind a large wooden door at the end of a dark corridor in the Rosewood Hotel, Hidden Bar’s warm, mod decor and quiet ambience will inspire you to talk in hushed tones over a classic old-fashioned or martini. In cooler months, it offers what most speakeasies do not—a cozy outdoor terrace where you can sip a drink while taking in the Abu Dhabi cityscape from across the water.
After a decade in the making, the UAE outpost of the renowned Paris museum opened to the public on November 11, 2017.
Starting out as one of the United Arab Emirates’ first food trucks, Meylas is no longer so much about grabbing a quick bite of local culture on the go, as it is about experiencing the traditional flavours in a small cafe decorated like a “canteen” from a bygone era. You will feel like you’re at the start of the modern development in the UAE. Dallah (traditional coffee pots), henna, shopping bags, postcards, and children’s games are on display and for sale if you choose to take a bit of that culture home with you.


Of course, the food and hospitality is at the center of attention. Locally sourced ingredients contribute to chbaab, a pancake served with date syrup and salonat badu, the traditional bedouin stew made with chicken or lamb. At the end of the meal, you’ll find several sweets like khabees that are spiced with cardamom and saffron or legeimat, which reminds me of a donut hole sweetened with dates syrup and topped with sesame seeds. Coffees and teas are prepared the way they used to be and should not be passed up at the end of the meal while you mull over the days events. I recommend ordering a smattering of anything that looks interesting off the menu to share.
Perhaps the most inviting cafe to spend time at in Abu Dhabi is The Third Place. With furnished alcoves, window seats, and patio tables, it’s a great place to meet a friend, settle in with a book, or get some work done over wifi. The food is terrific—fresh, well-prepared, and good for you. Servers cheerfully welcome their patrons with a smile and offer recommendations from the large menu written on the wall. When your meal is finished, they move things away quickly so you can continue conversing or working. Started by architects, the business showcases an appreciation for art and design, in a second-floor gallery.
With a bit more Arabian flare than a typical shopping mall—and a design that comes from the regional souk architecture, the WTC Souk (or Central Market) is a replacement to an outdoor souk that stood in the same place until a fire destroyed it in 2004. The new indoor shopping centre draws in shoppers and visitors all year round who seek a more authentic shopping experience in Abu Dhabi to purchase local jewelry, fashion and scarves, and gifts including plenty of camel figurines, paintings, sculptures, spices, and carpets. Typcially Arabian, the market is also filled with cafes where you can lounge and enjoy a coffee with family and friends. More contemporary shops can also be found at the World Trade Center Mall which is part of the same shopping center development.
Lovely ambiance, casual poolside atmosphere, and beautiful and sumptuous foods greet you at Nahaam. The restaurant in Jumeirah Hotel at Etihad Towers features an internationally inspired menu with stir fry, hamburgers, pizzas, and traditional beef, chicken, seafood, and vegetarian mains. The best time to go to Nahaam is for Friday brunch when they pull out a phenomenal selection of seafood, hot food on the grill outside, kids alley of sweets and smaller bites, and a dessert buffet that will tempt even the most diehard dieter into eating a few stunning creations.
It’s a better time than ever to learn about the capital of the United Arab Emirates.
After the evening call to prayer, several cafe trucks open up to people strolling along the stretch of Marina Island—across the water and parallel to the Abu Dhabi cityscape on the Corniche. From Arab coffee to karak (similar to chai tea), the drinks are the perfect way to end a day. On this particular evening, I enjoyed a piping hot Karak Zafron with a hint of saffron from the Street Bites Truck. With a park, a long jetty to a theatre, new restaurants, and some green park spaces, it is a local’s hot spot; yet the area remains mostly undiscovered by tourists and expats. The spit of land is perfect for long walks with a hot beverage from one of the trucks in the wintertime.