Norway

The name conjures images of icy fjords, Viking longboats, and trolls. But these icons of Norway tell only part of the story. While the landscape is still largely dominated by a long, snowy winter, Norway’s northern climate is moderated greatly by a wealthy society placing a heavy premium on convenience, beauty, and accessibility for all. Yesteryear’s marauding Vikings are today’s well-mannered hydroelectric engineers, so the nation has the intellectual know-how to make theirs not merely a highly desirable nation in which to live but a great year-round destination for travelers. From art, culture, and history to the world’s best hiking, biking and skiing, Norway has much to offer.

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Photo by Michelle Heimerman

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Norway?

Summer’s warm weather and long days are perfect for hiking, cycling, or making the most of a 72-hour Oslo stopover (about 58 of which will be spent in broad daylight in mid-June). Winter, though dark (with long nights down south and endless nights up north), is the best time to visit for cold-weather activities like skiing, snowboarding, and ice-climbing—all pursuits either invented by Norwegians or perfected by them. Visitors to Norway’s far northern city of Tromsø can experience 24 hours of sunlight for much of the summer, and perpetual and near-perpetual darkness, with a good chance of witnessing the spectacular northern lights, during much of the winter.

How to get around Norway

Oslo International is the usual gateway for most visitors entering the country, though many visitors from Sweden enter by train, bus, or car. There are also car and passenger ferries from Denmark, Germany, and Belgium.

Norway is a big country and—outside the cities—best explored by vehicle. Buses are plentiful, clean, and well-regulated, though travelers looking to explore outside major towns may wish to rent their own cars. Many chose to visit the country’s famously beautiful fjord-laced coast by boat, and even if you chose to drive, you’ll find car ferries an integral part of your journey. Norwegians heading for more remote communities often do so either by plane or boat. Train travel is also an option, with Norway’s passenger train service running as far north as the town of Bodø.

Food and drink to try in Norway

Cold climes breed hearty eaters, so it’s no surprise that Norwegian cuisine packs in the calorie. A typical hotel buffet breakfast paints a pretty clear picture: In addition to eggs, ham, and bacon, expect to see several varieties of cheese (including rich and flavorful Norwegian favorite gjetost), several types of bread, smoked and fresh salmon, reindeer or elk sausage, and a tube of “KAVIAR,” a spread made from fish eggs that’s as ubiquitous as ketchup. Though dishes like lutefisk are traditional, they tend to be something you’ll need to go out of your way to find, except during holidays. Norwegians love their coffee, and they drink more of it than almost any nation in Europe outside Finland.

Culture in Norway

Norway’s rich cultural tapestry is on display in the capital city of Oslo, where you’ll find museums dedicated to such famous Norwegians as the founder of the Nobel Prize, Alfred Nobel (actually a Swede), and playwright Henrik Ibsen and artist Edvard Munch (whose ghosts are said to sometimes meet for celestial high tea at the Grand Hotel). The city also has one of Europe’s most intriguing sculpture parks.

Aside from obvious festivals like Christmas (a big deal in Santa’s home country), Norway is home to celebrations ranging from unsurprising to downright quirky. People flock to the far northern city of Tromsø for the Northern Lights Festival, January 26–Feb 2, while Bergen holds a summer music festival called Bergenfest, June 21–24. On the quirky end, you can watch musicians play instruments made of ice during the month of February at Lillehammer’s Frozen Waterfall Festival, and facial hair aficionados (and those who love them) won’t want to miss the World Beard and Mustache Championship in Trondheim (usually held in May).

Local travel tips for Norway

Norway is among the world’s most expensive countries—a difficult place to travel on a budget. While hotel prices are comparable to other destinations in Europe, everything else is more expensive. Booking train, bus, and plane tickets in advance can help save on transportation costs. While eating out in Oslo is famously expensive, many cafés offer all-inclusive and quite affordable lunch specials.

Guide Editor

Joshua Samuel Brown has authored or co-authored thirteen travel guides for Lonely Planet and is a regular contributor to their website and “Best in Travel” series.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Set high on a mountainside between Aurland and Flåm, Otternes Farm is composed of a collection of farm cottages that date as far back as the 1700s, many preserved the way they were centuries ago. Pick up a map for a self-guided tour; the farm hosts traditional handicraft demonstrations that include dyeing yarn and brewing ale. They also serve local dishes (think pancakes with sour cream and raspberry jam) in a restored barn.
Take a 70-minute guided train tour of Ålesund that includes spectacular views from Mount Aksla and Borgund Fjord near Ålesund’s harbor. Other sites include the Molja Lighthouse (Norway’s oldest lighthouse, built in 1858), the Color Line Stadium, the historic Ålesund Church and a trip across the Hellebroa Bridge that connects the islands of Nørvøya (which includes the city center of Ålesund) and Aspøya. Tours are offered in English (as well as Dutch, French, German, Italian, Norwegian, Russian and Spanish) and include free Wi-Fi.
Norway’s only revolving restaurant is a great choice if you’re traveling with family. Located at the top of a telecom tower, the restaurant takes approximately one hour to complete a rotation, ensuring a different view of Trondheim’s glorious water and mountains whenever you glance out of the window. While there’s nothing special about the food here, some dishes offer better value than others. Shun the pizzas, burgers, and steaks and order instead from the creative mains menu. Blackened chicken rarely disappoints, and the pasta dishes will easily fill you up. Booking is essential on the weekend. Allow an extra 15 minutes before your booking time to ride up in the elevator.
Unlike most hard-to-navigate Norwegian cities, the streets of downtown Kristiansand form a grid pattern known as kvadraturen. At the northern end lies Posebyen, Kristiansand’s old town, whose interconnected wooden houses occupy fourteen blocks. The best preserved building is the old post office, which dates back to 1695. For a self-guided walking tour, pick up a copy of the Kristiansand Guide from the tourist office at Rådhusgata 18, just a few blocks to the south. The residents who occupy this former commercial area are proud of their homes, so expect well-tended flower boxes and friendly greetings.
In Scandinavia, Viking museums are popular stops in many cities and towns, and the hamlet of Borg, 15 minutes by car from Leknes, has an excellent one. The Lofotr Viking Museum is a replica of a chieftain’s longhouse, with artifacts from the excavation of one discovered here in 1983. Period actors who look like Game of Thrones extras recount and sing Viking sagas, while guests drink mead and feast on whale meat and hearty stew. The museum contains the results of archaeologists’ Iron Age research, which is also explained in a number of videos.

Shopping for unique crafts and other souvenirs is a trip highlight for many travelers, and this art collective, representing 70 local artists, is a special spot. Nordic imagery, such as the northern lights and winter landscapes, figures prominently in many of the works. You’re sure to find a one-of-a-kind gift here, from glass angels to handmade cups.
Treat yourself in the Paris of the North with a visit to Sweet Heart, located inside a lovely red wooden house in the heart of Tromsø’s main shopping district. For a true taste of Scandinavia, choose salty over sweet and try some black licorice, the house special loved and loathed in equal measure. Those without that acquired taste needn’t fear though, as the shelves are packed with all kinds of chocolates, jellies, and other candies, many beautifully packaged into gift boxes. The store also sells tea, coffee, and ice cream, making it extremely difficult to leave without satisfying any craving you had three times over.
Embarking on a glacier tour has often meant hopping on a gas-guzzling boat or bus; talk about an ethical conundrum. These ice-focused expeditions offer a more environmentally conscious approach.
First opened in 1894, the open-air Folk Museum has some 160 historic buildings, five of them dating from the medieval period, including Gol Stave, a 13th-century shingled wooden church. The buildings, from sod-roofed farmhouses to village shops along a cobbled street, represent rural and town life in Norway. In summer, visitors enjoy demonstrations and historic reenactments of folk life. Indoor exhibits explore the indigenous Sami culture and display folk art, textiles and historic native costumes.
A Baltic Sea voyage on Viking Cruises proves just the ticket to satisfy both our 30-something writer and her baby-boomer mom.