Toronto

Whatever you call it—Toronna, Hogtown, the Big Smoke, TO, or the 6ix—Toronto is a city of neighborhoods. These enclaves, influenced by diverse ethnicities, blend into each other, creating a unique and special vibe. From the lively Chinatown to the Latin-influenced Kensington Market, the 6ix is more than the film town it’s known to be every September. It is home to some of Canada’s best chefs, an explosive music scene, and abundant visual and performing arts.

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Photo by Sandro Schuh/Unsplash

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Toronto?

Fall and spring are the most comfortable, weather-wise. October and November are cool and crisp minus the snow; March and April can be rainy. In early September, stars and star seekers touch down for the Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF), so book well in advance!

How to get around Toronto

Your best bet to get to the city from Toronto Pearson International Airport is the UP Express rail line, which takes you to downtown’s Union Station for $12.35 CAD. By taxi, the trip downtown will cost anywhere from $60 to $85. Toronto’s sprawling public transportation system, called the TTC, also has a bus that takes you to the subway and then downtown. Have exact change of $3.35 for this bus, called the Airport Express. The smaller Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport, served by Porter Airlines and Air Canada, connects to downtown Toronto by ferry or an 853-foot-long pedestrian tunnel.

TTC trains, buses, and streetcars traverse the city. A one-way fare is $3.35, and visitors can buy daily, weekly, or monthly passes in stations. You can buy the pass with a credit or debit card. Cash is also accepted, but you’ll need exact change and won’t get the system’s free two-hour transfer. Taxis are readily available, but Uber or local taxi apps like Beck are also there to ensure safe and reliable rides.

Can’t miss things to do in Toronto

Rising 1,815 feet, the CN Tower is an iconic part of Toronto’s skyline. It’s also home to Edgewalk, a thrilling walkway on the tower’s exterior and an incredible vantage point of the metropolis. Nearby attractions include the Hockey Hall of Fame, Ripley’s Aquarium of Canada, and Toronto’s futuristic City Hall, designed by Finnish architect Viljo Revell in 1965. Its giant, illuminated “TORONTO” sign is a popular selfie spot.

The Beaches Boardwalk offers a nice place to walk or run, plus a great skyline view of the city. Walk south to Ashbridge’s Bay Park from Coxwell and Queen, past the cluster of sailboats and beyond the Boardwalk to “the rocks,” where you’ll find this peaceful view. Make a day of it by packing a picnic, your bike, or a swimsuit to for a dip at Woodbine Beach, the largest of the area’s four beaches, and a 15-minute stroll west. Just north is the Burger’s Priest, known for its tasty hamburgers.

Food and drink to try in Toronto

Toronto is renowned for its widely diverse food scene. From Afghani kabobs to Aboriginal fry bread, Belgian waffles to Bahamian guava duff, Tibetan momos to Taiwanese fried chicken, you’ll find it here. The scene has even birthed its own fusion combos: Kensington Market’s Rasta Pasta is Canada’s first Jamaican-Italian fusion spot. Toronto also boasts three Chinatowns, Little Italy, a Koreatown, Little India, and a kaleidoscope of cuisines in neighborhoods like Scarborough, Brantford, and Markham outside the downtown core.

With 13 Michelin starred-restaurants in the city, Toronto cuisine extends beyond poutine. Canoe is famous for haute Canadian cuisine with views to match. SAP, at the Bay department store, is a runner-up. And a new breed of chef is spurring innovation with restaurants like Alder, Parquet, and Sunny’s Chinese.

Markets come to life in every neighborhood on the weekends. The best-known is the historic St. Lawrence Market, flush with fresh produce and eating options, including the famous peameal bacon sandwich from Carousel Bakery.

Culture in Toronto

There’s plenty to do in the city. The Royal Ontario Museum and the Art Gallery of Ontario offer fun and thought-provoking exhibitions and events on a regular basis. Bloordale Village, West Queen West, Ossington, and the Distillery District house clusters of small art galleries. The Four Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts is home to performances by the Canadian Opera Company and the National Ballet of Canada. And the symphony performs at the unusually-shaped Roy Thomson Hall. Toronto’s quirkier sights include the Bata Shoe Museum and the Canada Walk of Fame in the heart of Toronto’s theater district.

Although Toronto is known for its film festival, TIFF, Hot Docs brings film buffs back every April. North by Northeast (NXNE), Canadian Music Week (CMW), and Jazz Fest keep music lovers entertained in the spring and summer. Neighborhood festivals like Kensington Market’s Pedestrian Sundays happen from May to October. In June, Toronto Pride celebrates the diversity of the LGBTQIA+ community. The Canadian National Exhibition (known as the CNE or the Ex) is a fun way to count down the summer and has become known for quirky food creations like the infamous Bacon Ice Cream Sandwich. Art is celebrated year-round at the Contact Photography Festival in May, Nuit Blanche in September, and the Distillery Winter Village in December.

Local travel tips for Toronto

You can discover Toronto’s grittier side through its graffiti and public art installations. For rogue art, check Graffiti Alley just south of Queen West, though you’ll find glimpses of incredible street art scattered throughout the city. The Red Canoe (Tom Thomson’s Canoe) is a favorite installation in the lovely urban greenspace, Canoe Landing Park. The Toronto Sign, and the annual winter art in the lifeguard stations along the lakefront provide art-lovers lots of detours in town.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
In Toronto’s burgeoning hotel scene, you’ll find Canada’s first Ace Hotel, a reimagined St. Regis, and an ultra-cool boutique stay in a private women’s club.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Until Toronto hosted the 2015 Pan Am Games, City Hall—two curved modernist office towers that look like a pair of parentheses surrounding a period—lacked tourist allure. But enter a photogenic, rainbow-hued, eye-catching TORONTO sign, and voilà! A star was born. Found in the square directly in front of City Hall, the illuminated sign, originally meant to be a temporary attraction, has become one of the city’s most photographed structures, along with the CN Tower. The sign’s O’s, in particular, are popular with canoodling couples.
A visit to Ripley’s Aquarium will swiftly transport you to the tranquil depths of the ocean—or to a different planet completely. This popular attraction, home to 16,000 sea creatures, features a number of galleries that show different ocean habitats from around the globe. Fancy some up-close time with jellyfish? A backlit display can transfix even the most jaded visitor. An underwater tunnel lets you walk through a shark tank. A journey into Canadian waters reveals what lurks beneath. (Hint: There’s plenty of kelp in the Pacific.) But not everything is behind glass: Aquatic fanatics can get in the water to swim with a stingray or assist the animal caretakers.
Shoushin is, hands down, Toronto’s finest destination for fish—and for convincing customers that they’ve somehow been transported to Tokyo. The fish isn’t gussied up with sauces and you won’t find a dragon roll in sight; instead, simplicity reigns supreme. The kitchen serves Edomae sushi, which is prepared in the most traditional way. (The ancient name for Tokyo is Edo.) Order either from the set menu or opt for an omakase dinner and leave the meal entirely in the chef’s hands.
It’s not often that one comes across a double-decker theater. In fact, the Elgin and Winter Garden Theatre Centre is the only still-active stacked theater, and has been designated a National Historic Site. Built in 1913 by American architect Thomas W. Lamb for the Loews theater group, the two venues were meant to serve two separate markets. Today, they frequently host live performances, musicals, and films. The Winter Garden is especially unique, featuring a decorative ceiling hung with dried leaves, a touch that transforms the room into a magical land.
The West End neighborhood of Parkdale, once considered an unsavory part of town, has undergone a transformation. One of the new arrivals is the Shameful Tiki Room, a Vancouver transplant with a kitschy Polynesian atmosphere. The cocktail selection emphasizes drinks made with rum and orgeat—tiki ingredients from the 1950s—particularly fruity, boozy punches. The best, dubbed the Volcano Bowl, arrives tableside in conjunction with a smoke machine, a thunderous voice-over, and a flaming “volcano” in the center of the drink vessel. It doesn’t get much more fun than this.
White tablecloths may have been cast aside at many Toronto establishments, but Scaramouche doesn’t play by trends. No barn-board tables or Edison bulbs can be found here. This swank uptown restaurant is a classic, having wined and dined customers—and topped many a restaurant list—for over 35 years. Take a tip from regulars and start the evening with the foie gras terrine before ordering entrées like Canadian grass-fed filet mignon or pork with hazelnut spaetzle and white asparagus. And, by all means, leave room for the coconut cream pie.
When Torontonians heard that French pastry chef Bertrand Alépée was set to open a patisserie in Parkdale, tongues wagged. While the emerging ’hood had embraced plenty of hot-to-trot restaurants, the idea of locals coughing up $6 for an saccharine work of art was a bit questionable. Thing is, they were wrong. Since The Tempered Chef swung open its doors, a steady flow of sugar keeners has made its mark on the wooden floors. The inviting room sees a communal table up front along with plenty of smaller seating arrangements in a high-ceilinged space. A glass case displays an ever-changing set of rather handsome pastries like the choco citron (pictured), a lemon tart with a layer of milk chocolate ganache topped with meringue. Croissants, croque monsieur and mini quiches are also present, aimed at those seeking out a more lunch-y fare. Turns out, a patisserie was exactly what Parkdale wanted.
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Built in 1927, the neo-Gothic structure of the Windsor Arms was intended to resemble the buildings of the University of Toronto. (The hotel is near Victoria College at the university.) The entrance feels like stepping into a castle, the Windsor Arms logo perched neatly beside the portico, doorman at the ready. The hotel was purchased by developer George Friedmann in 1995 and resurrected with modern touches for a fresh debut in 1999. The hotel is birthplace to the idea of the now-famous Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF). It continues to attract celebrities who want a boutique feel, and though TIFF has shifted its headquarters south, the Windsor Arms will always be a refuge for those who want Old World charm and exclusive service. The streetside patio is perfect for people watching during the lively month of September. And in the hotel’s hallways, you can “stargaze” at the portraits of celebrities, from Robert Redford to Barbra Streisand.
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