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Just across the street from Montréal’s City Hall (or Hôtel de Ville), the Château Ramezay has been witness to almost three centuries of history. It was first built in 1705 by Claude de Ramezay, then governor of Montréal, as his official residence. While the building principally served as the home of later governors, it was also briefly the headquarters of the Continental Army when American troops occupied the city. (Benjamin Franklin spent a night in the house during that period.) In 1895, it began its current incarnation, as a portrait gallery and history museum. The collection includes prints, drawings, photographs, and other works of art, as well as humble household objects, that shed light on the daily life of the city’s residents and First Nations peoples in Québec over the centuries. Be sure to leave time to explore the small kitchen and pleasure gardens, as well as the orchard, for an introduction to the horticultural practices of settlers in New France and residents of 19th-century Montréal.

Hunting poutine is hard work, but it can do serious damage to your waistline if you’re not careful. Call in at Fitz & Follwell and work off some of those excess curds on a bike, snow, or walking tour of Montreal. The shop is located on beautiful Avenue du Mont-Royal, and should serve to whet your appetite for all things bipedal. Montreal is one of Canada‘s most bike-friendly cities, and the folks at Fitz & Follwell Co. can help get you on your way.

George-Étienne Cartier may not be a household name for many people outside of Canada, but he is recognized there as one of the founders of the nation. The 19th-century lawyer was crucial to rallying the country’s francophone population to the cause, and his impact on Canada included everything from helping negotiate the creation of the province of Manitoba to introducing legislation that established the Canadian Pacific Railway. His life and achievements are celebrated In this house where he lived from 1848 to 1871. It also provides a glimpse of what daily life was like for Montréal residents in the Victorian era.

The Bonsecours Market is hard to miss, whether you are walking around Montréal’s historic center or looking at the skyline from the harbor. A silver dome caps the long building, which dates from 1844 and was modeled on Dublin’s Customs House. It looks more like a stately civic building than a market, and in fact it was Montréal’s city hall for a while, as well as the seat of Canada‘s parliament for one session. After serving as the central market of the city for nearly a century, it closed in 1963 and was largely abandoned until 1992, when it reopened as the home of a visitors’ center for Montréal’s 350th anniversary. Today it houses a dozen or so boutiques featuring works by local designers, as well as a few restaurants that make for good pit stops on a day of sightseeing.

To me, no other place in Montréal represents the city better than Place d’Armes. After all, it is the second oldest public site in the city, and its center is home to a statue of Paul de Chomedey, the founder of Montréal. And the varied architectural styles surround the square in a way that clearly demonstrates just how old and historic Montréal is. A blend of Gothic Revival, classic Art Deco, and ultra-modern sleek skyscrapers illustrates the major periods of Montréal’s development. It’s definitely a great place to start or end an Old Montreal exploratory tour, or to stop and people watch!

This is the storefront to the internationally known high fashion web empire that few people – even Montrealers – know is based Montreal. SSENSE has been selling brands like Erdem, 3.1 Philip Lim, Givenchy, Chloé, Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino and dozens more élite designers for years now, bringing the world of fashion to Montreal in a way even department stores Ogilvy and Holt Renfrew haven’t been able to. In contrast to the web store, this stylish storefront on fashion avenue – where local designers Denis Gagnon, Rad Hourani and more have their boutiques – is the place to go to try some designer items on in the flesh.

When it isn’t occupied by the Grands Ballets Canadiens or Opéra de Montréal, this largest concert hall in Montreal’s Place des Arts cultural complex has been known to host big musical names, including Maria Callas, Bob Dylan, Radiohead, Luciano Pavarotti and Ella Fitzgerald. The sound system is the utmost in refinement, and, combined with the cushy seats and hushed atmosphere, it makes for a sophisticated listening experience indeed. Half the fun is the opportunity to wander through the impressive 1960s building, punctuated by salons and bars for that ubiquitous intermission gin & tonic. Go ahead of time and reserve a table at one of the famous glassed-in restaurants on the Quartier des Spectacles, Brasserie T! or F Bar.

Parisian Brasserie dining, and a few hundred bottles of good wine standing sentinel for good measure. It didn’t take me long to get used to afternoons and evening at La Coupole. I had an equally delightful time at breakfast; a bit of yogurt and granola, some bread and cheese, and NHL highlights from the night before. I’m a simple guy, what can I say. Fine dining, good wine, and hockey fights go together like PB&J. In my book, anyway.

Contemporary art can sometimes be pretentious or obscure, but DHC/ART adds an edgy sense of wit, with exhibitions ranging from the visual puns of Ceal Floyer to the exuberant portraits of John Currin. 451 rue St.-Jean, (514) 849-3742.

New York City vs Montreal. Oh, the debate. In the ongoing Great War of the Bagels between the two cities, Montreal has always been the favorite contender, both among the proud locals and the tourists. Let’s be honest here—Montreal wins, and there is no such thing as better bagels than Montreal bagels. If you agree with the premise of this highlight, then you might want to add this to your next Montreal trip: the Fairmount Bagel Bakery in the Mile End area. Founded by Jewish immigrant Isadore Shlafman in 1919, the knowledge was transmitted from generation to generation, and the family still uses the same methods even today. Everything is done by hand, and with love! It’s very rewarding, as a consumer, to buy things locally and encourage an almost-century-old family-owned business. And in this case, it’s double the reward: good conscience, and full stomach. What’s not to like?

This rickety old five-storey loft building downtown became an enclave for art galleries a couple of decades ago because the rents were affordable and the location was central. Management has since embraced its status as Montreal’s small-gallery and artist-run centre headquarters, and spruced the building up a bit, encouraged by the enthusiastic foot-traffic the galleries bring. Some mainstays absolutely not to be missed on your trip there include Pierre-François Ouellette Art Contemporain (pictured), where you might catch art by Kent Monkman, Maskull Lasserre or Karilee Fuglem; Circa, an exciting space in constant development these days, dedicated to sculptural works; and Galerie Joyce Yahouda, an effervescent space where you can see work by local artists including Céline B. La Terreur, François Morelli or David Elliott.

“She’s an original yet timeless Québec fashion designer—a rare combination. Marie Saint Pierre is known for using unusual fabrics with soft colors as well as black and white. Her designs feel really classic. I stop in when I need something chic and comfortable,” says Nathalie Bondil, head curator at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts.

This is a 5-star boutique hotel located in the heart of Montreal, across the street from the Centre Bell, home of Les Montréal Canadiens, and tucked along famed rue Sainte-Catherine. Was I blown away during my stay here? Yeah, and then some. After checking in, I was greeted by a frosty bucket filled with my favorite beer, tossed the curtains back to reveal the stunning view of downtown Montreal, then scrambled up to the 12th floor for a dip in the saltwater pool, and relaxed in the outdoor hot tub as the day rolled along. I rarely thought about leaving. I dined at La Coupole and had a few cocktails in the Wine Bar, and... well, that’s enough. Things got out of hand from there. I spent four nights at Hotel Crystal, and had what is to date my best hotel experience in my homeland.

A church—or, at least, a small chapel—has stood on the site of the Basilica of Notre-Dame since shortly after Ville-Marie (Montréal’s predecessor) was founded in 1642. The current building, however, dates to 1829 and was constructed in a soaring Gothic Revival style. At the time, that aesthetic choice raised some eyebrows—Gothic designs were associated more with Protestant churches than Roman Catholic ones. (Perhaps the fact that the architect was an Irish-American Protestant didn’t help the situation.) Whatever initial resistance there was evaporated in the face of the beauty of the completed building. In the decades that followed, Gothic became the popular choice for churches in Canada of every denomination in large part because of Montréal’s basilica. In the 1870s, in what was perhaps a case of gilding the lily, the basilica became even more stunning when its interiors were painted in bright colors to resemble Paris‘s Ste-Chapelle.

At 185 acres, the Montréal Botanical Garden is less than a third the size of Mount Royal Park, but it manages to fit a remarkable collection of some 22,000 plant species and cultivars into that space, organized into 20 thematic gardens and including 10 exhibition greenhouses (ideal if you are looking for some tropical warmth in the depth of a Montréal winter). Everyone will have his or her own favorites when it comes to the different spaces—Alpine, Chinese, Japanese—but the First Nations garden stands out. Wandering alongside its pond and following its forested trails, you’ll feel like you are far from the city and instead in the northern reaches of the province of Québec—at least until you catch sight of the swoop of the nearby Olympic Tower, with its distinct incline. You can continue the naturalist itinerary at the Biodome, also nearby, where five different ecosystems of North America are re-created with flora and fauna—auks, lynx, penguins, and more.