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The great Almohad sultan, Moulay Ismail made Meknes his imperial capital and it is there that he is entombed. Although his mausoleum lies stone’s throw from Place El-Hedim and Bab al-Mansour, it’s not easy to find because it’s not marked. You will have to ask for help. When you enter in the mausoleum, you step inside a small entry room, painted buttercup yellow with a small fountain marking the center of the room. The entry room leads to the first of several interconnected open aired courtyards, each of which is also painted buttercup yellow. Surrounded in all directions by bright yellow walls, it’s hard to believe you’re actually in a mausoleum. The last courtyard fronts the tomb room and unless you’re a Muslim, you cannot enter. But not to be disappointed, the ante room will simply take your breath away. It soars up several stories high with a row of windows at the top that lets the sunlight filter in. Intricately carved plaster and delicately patterned zellij tiles adorn the walls. In the center of the floor is a small fountain collared by the eight pointed star that is classic to Moroccan design. There is perfect symmetry in all the design elements. It’s just a magnificent space!

The newest Yountville venture by Chef Thomas Keller and his restaurant group opened in January 2019. The casual Mexican eatery welcomes diners with bright, festive decor and crockery sourced from artisans in Mexico. Though Keller’s name earned the spot a ton of buzz long before its opening, Chef de Cuisine Kaelin Ulrich Trilling is the real culinary captain of the place. In addition to highlighting dishes from his native Oaxaca, Chef Kaelin honors flavors from across Mexico in a menu which features dishes like tostada de nopales (grilled cactus), pollo en mole negro (chicken in mole), tacos al pastor (pork with pineapple) and a tres leches cake that’s worth the trip alone. But above all, Trilling and his team are committed to embodying the restaurant’s name. “A calenda is a celebration,” says Trilling, “and the name is to bring to Napa Valley a sense of fun and Mexican culture. You come in, have a great meal, but we want you to feel like you’re relaxed and hving a good time, maybe sipping a good mescal.” So far, they’re hitting the mark.

White Elephant has been a Nantucket landmark for nearly a century, with more rooms than a typical inn but without sacrificing the intimacy and personal service of a small property. Located on the waterfront a short walk from Brant Point Light, the inn has a sprawling lawn with chaises for relaxing, as well as shuttle service to the area’s beaches. Accommodations range from king-bedded guest rooms (each with a private balcony or patio) in the main inn building to spacious garden cottages (some with kitchens and fireplaces) and penthouse-like lofts in downtown Nantucket. A small spa offers therapeutic massages, facials, and body treatments. A luxury resort that is truly family-friendly, kids and babies can get fully kitted out for bath time, mealtime, or beach time with a wealth of amenities and toys. The Brant Point Grill is a local favorite for an al fresco lunch, lobster dinner, or Sunday brunch (complete with Bloody Mary bar). The White Elephant also provides regular transfers on the 21-passenger boat, Lady Wauwinet, to the Wauwinet Inn’s restaurant TOPPER’S, which cultivates its own oysters.

Why we love it: A Mdina refuge that offers the ultimate escape from the crowds

The Highlights:
- An ideal location within the city walls of Mdina
- Suites with terraces and outdoor Jacuzzis
- Al freso dining in the charming hotel courtyard

The Review:
Perched on centuries-old bastions and surrounded by stunning baroque architecture, this Relais & Châteaux property provides a fairytale setting for a stay in Malta. Housed in a 17th-century palace, it’s the only hotel within the walls of Mdina, making it the ideal refuge from cruise passengers and other day trippers who crowd the fortified city each day. Simply decorated with period furniture and muted colors, the 17 guestrooms are spacious and comfortable, with several offering lofted sleeping areas. Some rooms even have private porches or terraces, while a few suites boast outdoor Jacuzzis.

The hotel doesn’t have a pool, but guests are welcome to use the one at sister property Xara Lodge. If you’d prefer to relax on site, go instead to one of Xara’s four bars and restaurants, which range from the fine-dining deMondian and The Medina Restaurant in the courtyard to the Italian-inspired Trattoria AD1530 and the casual Palazzo de Piro Café and Bistro.

Beloved by artists and curators attending the annual Art Dubai fair, XVA Art Hotel wraps around the three courtyards of the restored 19th-century home of the Seddiqi family, prominent traders who became the emirate’s Rolex dealers. Longtime resident Mona Hauser, founder and owner of the XVA Gallery of contemporary art, decorated each second-floor room of the traditional wind tower house in collaboration with a regional designer or artisan such as Nada Debs, a Lebanese designer known for her custom mother of pearl inlaid furniture. The on-site alfresco vegetarian lounge café—praised by chef Gordon Ramsay as his favorite place to eat in Dubai—is a hangout for independent travelers and resident creatives who linger over mint lemonade, salads, soups, and cheesecake. There is a running trail along Dubai Creek and the hotel can recommend nearby beaches, as well as spa services and fitness centers at all price points.

You don’t have to be a guest at El Fenn’s hotel to relish the eclectic surroundings of its gallery and boutique—all ruby red tadelakt around a gleaming silver bar, with a chest-high fireplace and a trompe l’oeil of strutting pink flamingos. As spaces go, it’s a work of art in and of itself. Put it on your list for lunch, dinner, or drinks so that you can also delight in the frequently changing exhibits of contemporary Moroccan and international artworks. Recent highlights featured a showcase of the best of Essaouira art naïf painters and the late, great photographer Leila Alaoui’s moving portraits entitled simply The Moroccans. Peruse the boutique for a carefully curated selection of made-in-Morocco housewares, fashion, and gift items by local designers and artisans before heading upstairs for a long, lazy lunch of market-fresh salads and grilled meat and fish served family style on the rooftop. If it’s too cold for dining alfresco, grab a perfectly crafted negroni from the bar and snag a spot by the fire for an intimate tête-à-tête.

On the North Shore of O‘ahu, Turtle Bay Resort is the only hotel of its caliber on this less developed part of the island. Set on a 1,300-acre property—half of which has been set aside permanently for conservation—the 408 rooms and suites all have ocean views and a neutral/blue palette inspired by the surrounding area. The resort’s commitment to environmental sustainability is palpable: Meals are prepared with leafy greens, beets, and other crops from the resort’s own Kuilima Farm, a plot of land five minutes from the hotel with a farm stand and “you-pick” self-harvesting days for locals. Meanwhile, the 18-hole golf course is maintained with gray water treated by the resort’s own plant.


The resort doubles as a wildlife sanctuary. A birding experience via electric golf cart led by Captain Scott Sundby, who runs Shaka Kayaks and has lived on the North Shore for 20 years, offers a glimpse at some of the wild residents. They include the ‘alae ‘ula, or Hawaiian common gallinule, which according to Hawaiian legend got its fiery red forehead from the gods, and Hawaiian monk seals, one of the world’s most endangered seal species. The coastline here is set within the Hawaiian Island Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary, extending more than 1,200 nautical square miles; in the winter, it’s the site of humpback breeding, calving, and nursing.

Dried fruits, nuts and more at Djemaa el Fna, I didn’t know what most of the items were but was sure to try 90% of them and everything was delicious. Moroccan food is amazing but only when eaten in Morocco!

Travelers can now take in the beauty of Oman’s otherworldly desert landscapes from the comfort of Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort in the central Al Hajar Mountains. Set on the rim of a massive canyon surrounded by craggy mountains, villages, and date plantations, the 115-room resort is a retreat with stone walls inspired by the region’s ancient citadels.

During the many years I lived in Dubai, I must have sipped drinks on the wide, breezy veranda of Bahri Bar hundreds of times. It was the bar I took my many visitors to Dubai—from my Mum to my old school friends—on their first night in the city and on their last. On the first night it was all about setting the scene and creating an impression and on the last it was about making my guests already start to miss Dubai—and thereby ensuring they returned again to visit me! Although an expat favorite, it’s undeniably touristy. But there are few lovelier ways to start a vacation in Dubai than settling into a cushioned chair on a deck strewn with Oriental carpets and dripping with lanterns, sipping a glass of wine, a cocktail or icy cold beer, and feeling the warmth of sun on your face and a breeze wafting in from the Arabian Sea. The interior of the colonial-inspired bar is sumptuous and that’s where you’ll want to retreat during the warm (i.e., scorching hot) months of spring and summer. But in the cooler months (i.e., the beautiful stretch of weather from November to April) you need to snag a table on the veranda for views of the abra boats cruising on the man-made waterways, the striking sail-shaped Burj Al Arab, and the sublime sunset. Make sure you book a restaurant for dinner somewhere else, or you might never leave.

As soon as the ferry pushes away from Kabataş ferry terminal on Istanbul‘s European side, you can feel the frenetic pace of the city slipping away. Sipping a coffee on the ship’s bow, the beautiful scenery and azure Bosphorus waters enchant as the boat makes stops on the Asian side, then on to each of the five Prince Islands (Adalar), just around an hour’s journey away from the city. Büyükada is the largest of the five islands. With no cars on this idyllic and relaxed isle, horse-drawn carriage and bicycles remain the main modes of transportation -- both of which can be hired at the ferry terminal upon arrival. An afternoon’s cycle can cover the whole island, and caters to stopping at the stunning scenic bluffs, hidden beaches, and clifftop cafes along the route at your own pace. In town, mansions boast swaths of bougainvillea and visitors dine al fresco at restaurants serving fresh seafood. Tasty ice cream can be bought near the ferry for the journey home. Go on a weekday to miss the weekending Istanbul crowd, to whom the island’s charm is no secret.

One of St. John’s most beautiful seaside spots, Hawksnest Beach offers a beautiful and easy-to-reach locale with convenient parking, picnic tables, barbecue grills, and ample shade. That accessibility, alas, can mean crowds, so try to arrive early and find your spot on the sand. A long snorkeling reef begins a few yards from the shore.

Opened in 1997, Jumeirah Beach Hotel is one of Dubai’s first modern resorts. The broad, wave-shaped tower sits next to a white-sand beach with a full flight of water sports, and it gets year-round traffic including many sun-seeking Russian package tourists and British families. Despite a capacity of more than 1,200 guests, the hotel has enough pools and restaurants to absorb the crowds. The guest rooms are still some of Dubai’s largest (that’s saying a lot), and the hotel is a convenient 20-minute taxi or free shuttle ride to the Gold Souk on Dubai Creek, or to the Mall of the Emirates, site of Dubai’s famous indoor ski slope. Kids will want to maximize their time at the Wild Wadi water park just up the beach, where Jumeirah Beach Hotel guests enjoy free entrance. Couples migrate to the 24th-floor Uptown Bar patio for cocktails and breezy views of the Persian Gulf and the lights of Dubai’s iconic skyscrapers, including the Burj al Arab and Burj Khalifa.

As ubiquitous as “mandu” (dumplings) may be in Korea, when in Seoul, seek out their Mongolian lamb-filled ‘ancestors.’ One theory says that meat-filled dumplings were introduced to the Korean peninsula during the Mongol invasions of the 14th century. If that’s the case, then “buuz” (Mongolian dumplings) have made a comeback in the 21st century. In recent decades, tens of thousands of Mongolians have immigrated to South Korea, and the neighborhood just to the west of the new Zaha-Hadid-designed Dongdaemun Design Plaza has become home to a Central Asian village. Seek out the Cyrillic lettering and look for “Ulaan Baatar” restaurant, on the second floor of an otherwise nondescript building in an alleyway. A plateful of “buuz” would make a hearty meal, but it’s best shared. Hand-cut noodles, al dente, stir-fried with carrots and mutton are another option. If you want a break from the seemingly non-stop chile-garlic-soy palette of Korean food, but still want a ‘local’ flavor, this is your fatty chance. My wife and I were the only non-Mongolians when we had lunch here. We followed the example of the other diners and ordered salty milk tea to go with our food. I couldn’t bring myself to dunk my dumplings in it, though, as everyone else was doing. (Beer and Fanta are also available.) By subway: at “Dongdaemun History and Culture Park” station, take exit 12, walk west and turn left at the next corner; look for the 10-story building with cyrillic lettering on your right.

“Buongiorno, Signor Farley,” said Umberto, the head waiter at Hotel Missoni’s Cucina restaurant. By the beginning of the third day of my stay, the staff knew my name. And what I drank with breakfast. An espresso doppio was delivered to my table a minute later. “Prego,” the server said.

You’d think I was in Italy. In fact, I was 2,500 miles southeast of the country’s heel, in the capital of diminutive, oil-rich Kuwait. Opened in spring 2011, Hotel Missoni, owned by the eponymous fashion and home furnishings house, is one of many designer-conceived hotels that have popped up around the globe.

I have to confess: I have a complicated relationship with fashion. Maybe it’s related to my childhood. (Isn’t everything?) In the seventh grade, I wore a T-shirt to school that read, “My Son Is in the Navy.” My trend-conscious peers, who clearly had no sense of irony, laughed at me until the final bell rang. When I wore bowling shoes to high school, I was similarly mocked. How would I do in a hotel designed by a couturier?

I was picked up at the airport in Kuwait City in a Maserati (a complimentary perk for all Missoni guests). Not a bad start.

The property (like its sister hotel in Edinburgh, which opened in June 2009) is the brainchild of the Missoni family matriarch, Rosita. The hotel’s 169 rooms were designed to feel like her home. Compact Hans Wegner wishbone chairs and tuliplike Eero Saarinen–designed tables rest on hardwood floors, and everything—espresso cups, towels, even the swimming pool—displays the colorful striped patterns Missoni is known for. Generous helpings of turquoise, gold, and beige are splashed throughout the hotel to evoke the bayfront landscape outside, and every room looks out on the ever-expanding Kuwait City skyline. Like many things Italian, the hotel is simple and comfortable.

The Missoni team, which is fine-tuning its approach before opening hotels in larger markets, learns fast. There are no design hotel clichés here: no faucets with the function designed out of them, no overly formal staff. “Are those Camper shoes?” a waiter asked me one day at breakfast. I nodded. “Like bowling shoes,” he said. “Very cool.” Here, it seemed, fashion and I got along great.

965/2577-0000, from $414. This appeared in the September, 2012 issue.