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  • Tauentzienstraße 21-24, 10789 Berlin, Germany
    The largest department store in continental Europe, Kaufhaus des Westens (usually abbreviated as simply KaDeWe) is over a century old and a must for any shopper visiting Berlin. After being largely destroyed in World War II, its reopening in 1950 was not only an important shopping moment but a propaganda one too, an embodiment of the prosperity of West Berlin. Regardless of its Cold War significance, the sixth-floor food hall provides an unforgettable culinary experience with a chance to sample the best German and international products.
  • Prinzregentenstraße, 80538 München, Germany
    It takes some German engineering to surf in land-locked Bavaria. But endless rides are possible on the Eisbach wave, a man-made, standing curl in the middle of a narrow artificial stream that runs through the English Garden. It has drawn both international river surfers—even in winter—and gawking crowds since soon after the wave was created in 2000. The Eisbach wave is located at the southern edge of the English Garden park, near the Haus der Kunst art museum. This appeared in the November/December 2011 issue.
  • Robert-Gerwig-Platz 1, 78120 Furtwangen im Schwarzwald, Germany
    The Black Forest is famed for its cuckoo clocks, and the German Clock Museum (Deutsches Uhrenmuseum) in Furtwangen is the best place to get up close and personal with several examples. Here, visitors will find a collection of more than 1,000 iconic clocks, some 160 years old and others extremely rare, as well as troves of information on the history and technology of clock-making, including the concept of timekeeping. Visit the main exhibition to see items like an atomic clock, iron clocks from the 16th century, and the first-ever radio-controlled wristwatch, then check out the library and archive, which features books on horology from the local university. If you have kids in tow, be sure to also take advantage of organized treasure hunts for children, guided tours, and workshops on how to make and decorate a clock.
  • 29 Oderberger Straße
    For the past 10 years, Mario, the owner of VEBorange, has been selling DDR (East Germany) collectables and other German antiques. Most items in the shop on Oderberger Strasse are objects made and sold between 1950 and 1980, making this a great place to find kitschy and totally unique goods. When I visited on a sunny Saturday afternoon, Mario was tinkering with a Sputnik relic from the CCCP. Not everything that he collects or receives ends up on the shelves. Behind the counter are the things deemed interesting or noteworthy—things that might fit in a museum. If the nearby Mauer Park turns out to be too disappointing for you, head over to VEBorange (a short three-minute walk away) to find truly unique and special items. You can find everything from old Soviet war medals to clothes and furniture.
  • Kiehnwerderallee 1-3, 12437 Berlin, Germany
    Even fun has a shelf life. This is what runs through my mind as I walk around Spreepark, the abandoned, dilapidated amusement park in Berlin. When East Germany and the GDR fell, so did many of the businesses operating under the rules of communism. They were never really able to make the transition to capitalism successfully. Spreepark, located in the East German part of Berlin, was one such casualty. Even though Spreepark is “dead,” it is now a present-day photographic amusement park. The park is closely guarded, and trespassing is typical but also dangerous, so an enthusiastic, enterprising young man has started running tours on the weekend, providing access to shoot away to your heart’s content. The rides and stands have all deteriorated in place over the years, which makes for an eerie photographic landscape. More Information: Tour information (only in German) – www.berliner-spreepark.de/ – Tours are given mainly on the weekends. If you want to go on a tour, contact him, as he does know a little English and you can at least book yourself into a tour and get access for photography—even if you don’t understand the stories.
  • 9 Residenzstraße
    Zum Franziskaner has a laid-back vibe that makes you feel like you’re dining in someone’s living room. The central location means it’s always full, and it’s a popular spot after the opera. There are two menus, a German one and an English one which doesn’t include all of the same dishes as the German ones, so if you want to try something *really* Bavarian ask for the German menu as well and see if your server can help you. Also worth noting is that the pretzels on the table are not free. They’re delicious, but you pay for each one that you eat.
  • Schloßgasse 26, 63739 Aschaffenburg, Germany
    Completed in 1614, Johannisburg Palace is one of the most important Renaissance castles in Germany. Located along the Main River, the immense, four-winged complex served as the second residence of the archbishop-electors of Mainz until 1803. Today, it’s home to innumerable cultural and historical treasures, including a unique collection of cork architectural models called Bringing Rome Across the Alps. The State Gallery displays early German and Dutch paintings, with a special emphasis on Lucas Cranach the Elder, while the Princely Apartments offer a fine array of neoclassical furnishings. In the Palace Church, modern technology brings the Renaissance altar to life in a new way, using light and sound installations to highlight the 31 alabaster sculptures and almost 150 relief figures. Also not to be missed is the Palace Museum, showcasing the history of Aschaffenburg, as well as the gardens, where the fruit trees and flower beds are particularly splendid in summer.
  • Theatinerstraße 22, 80333 München, Germany
    Theatine Church (Theatinerkirche in German) towers over Odeonsplatz. The inside is mostly white marble, a contrast to the bright yellow facade. It’s much more formal inside than many other churches in Munich and is the burial place for many Bavarian royalty, including King Maximilian II. The Catholic Church was built from 1663 to 1690. It was severely damaged during WWII. Look for a newspaper clipping on the right side of the church, about halfway down to see it in its destructive state. Thankfully it was carefully restored.
  • Platzl 9, 80331 München, Germany
    Germans, especially Bavarians (who are or are not Germans, depending on whom you talk to) love eating their meat and potatoes. While there, I went for a giant joint of pork with kartoffel (potato) salad. Nobody does fresh potato salad better. Sure, the famous Hofbrauhaus in Munich is a great place to sit with friends and try to avoid spraining your wrist as you suck down liter glasses of beer, but it’s also a great place to eat. Filling up helps you enjoy the beer even more and fights off the eventual intoxication as well.
  • 7 Lenbachplatz
    The Palace of Justice (“Justizpalast” in German) is one of the most beautiful buildings in all of Munich. It was constructed from 1890-1897 by the architect Friedrich von Thiersch in neo-baroque style. The highlight of the building is the 67m glass dome. It houses the Bavarian Department of Justice and the District Court of Munich.
  • Augustinergasse 1, 76829 Landau in der Pfalz, Germany
    The picturesque village of Landau, located halfway between the German town of Speyer and the French town of Wissembourg, makes for a great stop along the Wine Route, especially to see the Church of the Holy Cross. A former monastery for Augustinian monks, it was built in the early 14th century but expanded throughout the centuries to include a three-aisled Gothic basilica and several attractive Baroque elements. When you’re done touring the church, head to Landau’s medieval city center, where you’ll find traditional taverns, charming cafés, some excellent restaurants, and several great boutiques.
  • Linienstraße 160, 10115 Berlin, Germany
    It might be small and simple—conspicuously bare white walls, just a smattering of handmade wooden tables topped with flower arrangements, and a few barstools—but the updated German cuisine at Lokal is far from basic. With a commitment to local and organic ingredients, the kitchen draws on classic carnivore favorites like offal and game, making them look and taste completely unique. There are usually a couple of equally tasty dishes for vegetarians, also created using ingredients sourced from farms around Berlin. The atmosphere is generally quiet and pleasantly refined.
  • Kampenwandstraße 85, 83229 Aschau im Chiemgau, Germany
    Sixteen apartments—plus a library and wine cellar—owned by German furniture designer Nils Holger Moormann sit at the foot of the Bavarian Alps. Inside a 17th-century estate, Moormann’s modern interiors are fashioned from brick, clay, and untreated wood. The cable car near the property leads to the Kampenwand ski area. But serious skiers should head 30 miles south to the higher-elevation Wilder Kaiser–Brixental ski resort in Austria. On the night of the full moon, snowshoe about two hours to the Riesenhütte mountain chalet for a Bavarian meal served around a campfire. From $144. 49/(0) 805-290- 4517. This appeared in the November/December 2012 issue.
  • Platz der Republik 1, 11011 Berlin, Germany
    Built by Kaiser Wilhelm I in the late 19th century as a gesture to parliamentarians, Berlin’s famed Reichstag came into its own during the Weimar era—Germany’s first attempt at democracy. The parliament building burned under mysterious circumstances in 1933, leading to the suspension of civil rights and Hitler’s ensuing dictatorship. Seized and shot to pieces by Soviet troops in 1945, then abandoned during the city’s division, the traumatized building reentered public life when the German government returned to Berlin following reunification. Today the Reichstag stands proud, topped by a glass dome designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster as a symbol of political transparency. Going inside the dome is very popular; you can look down on plenary sessions as well as admire sweeping city views.
  • schlosshof 1, 69117 Heidelberg, Germany
    A restaurant inside Heidelberg Castle was never going to be modest or inexpensive, and Scharff’s Schlossweinstube is nothing if not upscale. With classic parquet flooring, sparkling chandeliers, and stucco ceilings, it’s romantic and refined, its Baroque decor only outdone by its Michelin-starred fare. Informed by classic German and French techniques, head chef Martin Scharff serves local favorites like Swabian ravioli, as well as roast duck, unique dishes such as veal kidneys, and a delicious cheesecake with raspberry sorbet, all perfect for pairing with an extensive selection of international wines.

    If you’re not looking to splurge, try the neighboring Bistro Backhaus, with a more rustic appeal including vintage furnishings, a huge baking oven, and a casual menu of coffee and cake. It also features a shaded terrace and the same wine list as Scharff’s.