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Built in the 1920s by a Croatian businessman, Palacio Astoreca underwent two years of refurbishment and restoration before opening its doors as a boutique hotel in 2012. The work was carried out to a meticulous degree, maintaining the original parquet floors, and adding splashes of color with art deco furniture and modern art, including one piece by Switzerland’s Frédéric Clot. The stucco-and-brick mansion rises up from the streets of Chile’s port city, Valparaíso, like a piece of red-and-white confectionary.

A statement staircase winds up to the 23 rooms, some of which have stand-alone bathtubs. And the basement level is home to a small spa with an open-air, wood-fueled hot tub set alongside a living wall. The reception level and entrance hall open out onto a terrace where lunch, tea, and cocktails are served, allowing guests prime views over the hilly city and Pacific Ocean. There are quiet corners for those seeking a solitary moment, including a library and a piano bar, which comes to life in the evenings with live music.

This pink-marble waterfront edifice in Piazza San Marco dates back to the 14th century, when it was the residence and seat of government for the doges (rulers) of Venice. Today the ornate Byzantine- and Moorish-influenced Gothic Palazzo Ducale is a symbol of the city, and serves as a museum hosting some of Venice’s most important art, including the famous Bacchus, Venus, and Ariadne masterpiece by Tintoretto. It also runs the popular Secret Itinerary and Doge’s Palace Hidden Treasures tours. After you’re done, treat yourself to a glass of wine in the small on-site bistro, with windows looking onto the Grand Canal adjacent to the Bridge of Sighs.

Nina Compton, a native of Saint Lucia in the Caribbean, came to New Orleans a few years ago to compete in the Top Chef television series. She didn’t win the culinary slugfest, but New Orleans came out ahead—a short time later she returned to set down roots by opening Compère Lapin, a charming, brick-accented restaurant in a hotel that’s a reasonable stroll from the French Quarter. It’s good to get there early to grab a drink at the bar, which treats its libations with the same seriousness as the kitchen does its food. (A frozen drink… with chartreuse.) The dishes are alive with creative Caribbean flavors—among the more memorable plates are the seafood pepper pot, black drum, and curried goat.

Blending a cheerful, laid-back spirit with a splash of formal elegance, The Reefs Resort & Club is uniquely Bermudian. Staff greets you with a rum swizzle upon arrival at the family-owned and operated property, then whisks you up to a room where bright botanical prints complement crisp white linens, deep wood tones, and tile floors, and windows offer views of the Atlantic’s turquoise-tinged waves. Days are spent indulging in frangipani salt scrubs and ayurvedic massages at the spa, sitting in on a sunrise yoga session on the beach and hitting the links nearby, or simply napping on a chaise at the freshwater infinity pool. Sited to capture awe-inspiring vistas of the water, limestone cliffs, and lush vegetation that surround the resort, three restaurants serve classic continental fare, but more adventurous types can rent a scooter across the street to sample the local food scene on a culinary tour of Hamilton and St. George.

Housed on the Grand Cul de Sac, Le Barthélemy specializes in tranquility. All of the 46 rooms and suites have drop-down screens that transform outdoor terraces into private spaces. French chef Guy Martin, of the two-Michelin-star Le Grand Véfour in Paris, developed the menus for the two restaurants. Book the “Picnic Chic” service and a concierge will pack beach chairs, a hamper of canapés, and a bottle of rosé for you to take to any of the island’s secluded beaches.

Following renovations made necessary by Hurricane Irma, the hotel re-opened in October 2018 with an enhanced focus on wellness. In addition to new beachfront villas and three-bedroom suites, the property now features a hydrotherapy area, a traditional hamman, beach yoga, and an advanced fitness center with state-of-the-art equipment. There’s also a new beach grill serving light fare and a rooftop bar with DJs and live music.

Opened in 1890 as an unofficial state guesthouse, the country’s first Western-style property built for the aristocracy to welcome an increasing number of foreigners, the Imperial Hotel has had a momentous history. Ravaged by a fire in 1922, it was rebuilt in 1923 by Frank Lloyd Wright in Maya-Revival style, though it fell into disrepair over the decades and was demolished in 1967. The blocky current version comprises a main building and a tower that together house 931 rooms, but the interiors stick to the property’s past with leather headboards and velvet-covered furnishings. The hotel boasts the largest executive center in Japan, but more leisurely activities await in the 20th-floor swimming pool and sauna, in the fully equipped music room (complete with Steinway piano), and in 11 restaurants that range from upscale French and traditional Japanese cuisines to snack-worthy sushi and confections.

Few structures in Taiwan are as instantly recognizable as Taipei’s Grand Hotel. Set on a hill on the northern bank of the Keelung River, the Grand seems less a hotel and more an imperial sentinel keeping eternal vigil over the metropolis to the south. Among the world’s tallest classical Chinese structures, the hotel’s 285-foot red columns hold high a curvaceous burnt umber, temple-style roof topped by carved dragons. This classical Chinese motif continues inside the hotel, with dragons, lions, plum flowers, and other symbols of Imperial China woven throughout. Guestrooms are stately, though more functional than plush. All are decked out in imperial gold and red, and each offers carved teakwood chairs alongside other furnishings reminiscent of bygone dynasties. South-facing rooms all have balconies with city views so visitors can enjoy quiet meditations while looking out over the meandering river separating Taipei’s quieter north side from the more frenetic south.

Located just outside of Santa Cruz in the heart of the Colchagua Valley, Clos Apalta Residence (formerly Lapostolle Residence) is known for its premium Chilean wine. In 2005, the Marnier family opened the stunning property on a steep hillside in the micro region of Apalta. In addition to a state-of-the-art, gravity-fed winery, they built four villas, giving wine lovers a unique place to stay. Today, Clos Apalta functions as a Relais & Chateaux luxury hotel, complete with beautiful views of the valley and its surrounding mountains. Guests can relax on their private terrace, in the lodge, or by the infinity pool, sipping house wines while enjoying the vistas. They also have exclusive access to the dining room, where chefs use produce from the hotel’s own organic garden, and tours of the owners’ wine cellar during visits to the winery.

To get a feel for the real Dubai, there’s no better way than to book a tour with Frying Pan Adventures. Frying Pan was the first culinary tour outfit in Dubai, and their success is well deserved. A day with Frying Pan will get you out of the glitzy hotel scene and into Dubai’s neighborhoods, which can be hard to imagine when you’re sitting in a bar 25 stories above the city. On Arva’s Middle Eastern food tour you’ll try Syrian, Jordanian, Palestinian, Egyptian, Iranian, and Emirati cuisines. Good Emirati food is difficult to find outside of homes, so the tour is worth doing for that chance alone. You’ll get to sample delectable treats: from succulent Persian kebabs and wonderful Egyptian pastries to baklava dripping with honey and piping hot flat bread straight from the oven. Arva’s walking tours (or air-conditioned vans, in the hotter months), will take you from food trucks to tiny Egyptian kitchens, from Iranian saffron rice to Emirati date-scented desserts. Make sure to book well in advance, especially in the winter months.

Cerro Ancón, or Ancón Hill, is a patriotic symbol for all Panamanians. While the Stars and Stripes waved atop the hill throughout the period of United States control of the canal, now the proud promontory displays Panama’s colors. There’s just one footpath that leads to the top. In addition to its historical significance, it’s worth scaling the peak to visit the surrounding jungle and catch a glimpse of the area’s wildlife, all of which makes the park an oasis amid big-city bustle. Cerro Ancón’s second-generation, restored forest is home to more than 260 plant and 70 animal species. Once you hit the summit, every vantage point offers views of the Casco Viejo, the modern metropolis, the harbor, and densely populated downtown districts.

Around for over 10 years, this small “ital” (vegetarian) and vegan spot dishes out flavorful, affordable, and creative lunches in the one-table interior of a green house in Soufrière’s downtown. Favorites include the house pizza, a pie with whole-wheat crust topped with lentils, cabbage, pumpkin, and cheese. Other options include salads, veggie burgers, empanadas, smoothies, fresh juices, and a special cocoa tea. The atmosphere is about as casual as it gets, with a TV loudly blasting as locals stop by for a bite and to hang out.

Purpose-built as the first Ritz-Carlton in the Southern Cone, this Santiago hotel opened its doors in June 2003. When guests enter the impressive red-brick building, they are enveloped in a sense of occasion—paneled woodwork, ornately framed paintings, and staff dressed in suits and tuxes. All the trimmings delivered so well by the Ritz brand.

Tradition is the name of the game, both in service and style. The rooms are classic, with touches of Latin America in the artwork. The bathrooms are a high point—large, decked out in marble, and stocked with indulgent Asprey amenities. One of the most striking design features is the domed glass roof that tops the hotel. The view of the Andes is fantastic from the rooftop, and the best part is a swimming pool, so you can swim surrounded by snow-capped mountains. Service is a strong point (not always a given in Chile). You know you’re in good hands at the Ritz-Carlton.

Classic luxury in a colonial building is what visitors can expect of Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City, located near the swanky neighborhood of Polanco and the sprawling Chapultepec Park. Proximity to the park offers respite from some of the noisier parts of the city, as does the hotel’s own expansive courtyard. Citrus trees and other greenery, tended by the same gardener since the hotel opened, radiate from a central fountain, while sculptures by Mexican artist José Luis Cuevas add even more atmosphere to the peaceful setting. This sense of refinement extends throughout the property, with Four Seasons’ signature service on full display—housekeeping, for example, is performed twice daily, and the staff can arrange for in-room massage services. Guests can also look forward to a contemporary Latin American restaurant, a tequila and mezcal bar, and a health club with a sauna and whirlpool.

Melbourne’s market culture is obviously very much alive and, in the case of Queen Victoria Market, has been since the 1870s.


Food stalls to try: Börek; Bratwurst Shop & Co.; American Doughnut Kitchen; Gozleme Turkish Café; Le Croissant des Halles; Pizza by Nature; La Cantina; Sushi Kissaten; Pide Bread Bakery; Spanish Donut Van.

This appeared in the May 2014 issue.

In 2008, chef Olivier Roellinger stunned the culinary world by shuttering his famous three-Michelin-starred restaurant to focus on more relaxing endeavors. This was good news, however, for guests of Château Richeux, his picturesque hotel in St-Méloir-des-Ondes. Set on a cliff overlooking the sea, the 1920s villa offers views of Mont St-Michel across the bay, and a serene space where guests can completely unplug.

Without TV or Wi-Fi, you must find entertainment in Château Richeux’s elegant, antique-strewn interiors and beautiful grounds, complete with terraced gardens and a blind for birders. Relax in one of 11 sophisticated rooms with ocean vistas, cozy up in an armchair with a hot toddy, or linger in the living room over a book about the region. Come dinnertime, book a table at the hotel’s singular Restaurant La Coquillage, where Chef Roellinger’s mastery is on full display in dishes of local seafood, produce, and spices. A breakfast of homemade pastries on the ocean terrace is another rare treat.