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My bucket list included seeing the Northern Lights. This took me to the Chena Hot Springs Resort located an hour outside of Fairbanks, Alaska (the address is WRONG on the map). The Northern Lights are best seen in clear dark skies which is abundant in the Fairbanks area. It was 22 below (which is way cold!), but you could stay snuggly warm in the natural hot springs. The medicinal powers of the hot springs are also a high point. Maybe my imagination, but I went into the pool with an achy hip and came out pain free. The rock hot springs pool is surrounded by snow covered trees. This one looks to me like a tree nymph pointing to the sky and promising you a night time glimpse of the Northern Lights. What a spectacle it is! Mother Nature at her best is the colorful dancing lights that can be seen in this Alaska wonderland. Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that the Northern Light will appear so I am not promising you or guaranteeing you that if you go you will definitely have that remarkable experience. But, if you are one of the lucky ones that are blessed with a view of this remarkable phenomenon, it is worth the trip. If not, you may also see shooting stars in the dark night sky filled with more stars than you can imagine, go on a one horse open sleigh ride or go mushing in a sled pulled by a group of eager sled dogs! Also enjoy the cozy pub that has a great menu and drinks aplenty! Call the resort to confirm what activites will be available during your stay.

When I stepped into the grand lobby of Québec’s Le Château Montebello, I felt like I was entering Paul Bunyan’s living room. Giant timbers braced a three-story-high ceiling, and a massive fireplace in the center radiated warmth in all directions. After checking in, I joined the guests gathered around the six-sided hearth and sank into a leather club chair. I spent the rest of the day by the fire, sipping hot toddies and napping, as the comfort of the crackling flames sent me and the other fireside dozers snuggling deeper into our cushions. I had come to ski some of the 65,000 acres of wooded backcountry that neighbor the resort, but the château was so welcoming, I found it hard to leave.


Often described as the world’s largest log cabin, the lodge and two other main buildings were constructed in 1930 from 10,000 red cedar logs and 500,000 handmade wooden shingles. The houses and the vast surrounding forests were long owned by the politically prominent Papineau family, and until 1970, the estate remained a private nature retreat for Canada’s upper class. As I walked through the château’s halls, the intricately carved banisters and exposed beams reminded me of the great western lodges in the U.S. national parks—only without any grumpy tourists demanding to know where the animals are.

In the guest rooms, deluxe amenities such as flat-screen TVs and rain-dome showerheads upstaged anything found in Yellowstone or Yosemite. Despite the modern perks, rawhide lampshades and other rustic details helped my suite retain its frontier appeal. When I got up to pull the plaid drapes closed that night, I watched a horse-drawn sleigh pass by, glowing in the moonlight against the dark ribbon of the frozen Ottawa River.

Without fresh snow to ski the next morning, I was left to explore the lodge’s other activities. I opted out of getting scrubbed with maple sugar at the spa or unsuccessfully flirting with French-Canadian women by the fire, and instead devoted the day to learning the inscrutable rules of curling. The château has an indoor ice rink dedicated to the sport, a national favorite that’s best described as a combination of shuffleboard and falling down a lot. My instructor was Henri, a kindly sexagenarian who, like many in Québec’s western Outaouais region, seemed more comfortable speaking French than English. As it turns out, kindly reassurance sounds the same in either language. But as my backside repeatedly hit the ice, Henri’s patient polyglot insistence that I was doing “une belle job” grew progressively less convincing.

After my rough-and-tumble day, I dined in the white-tablecloth Aux Chantignoles restaurant. Québecois cuisine dominates the menu, and I followed a dinner of tender venison osso buco with a slice of Québec’s famously sweet and jiggly sugar pie—think pecan pie sans pecans. Snow fell just in time for me to ski through the nearby forest on my last day. I spent a long afternoon there, gliding among stands of birch, pine, and spruce in the rolling Laurentian Highlands. Now and again, I paused to admire one of the countless frozen lakes, their smooth surfaces dotted with tracks left by moose and white-tailed deer. I skied in the silent wilderness until just after sunset. As the scent of a wood fire began to tickle my nose, I grew eager to cozy up by the hearth again. I turned back toward the château’s stone chimney, its rising plume of smoke signaling for my return.
This appeared in the November/December 2010 issue.

Scandinave Spa, at the edge of the forest beside Lost Lake, is a Nordic–inspired spa that recommends alternating dips in the hot and cold pools, steam rooms, and brisk waterfall rinses. There are myriad ways to stitch together a rejuvenation regimen: Breathe deeply in the eucalyptus steam bath, then follow up with a series of hot baths before a shocking plunge under a chilly cascade, followed by a series of cold, colder, and almost freezing baths, or go the other direction. You can finish the treatments in around 90 minutes, but some choose to make a day out of a visit to Scandinave, tossing in a massage or facial, hanging out in the solarium to read or snooze, or even napping in one of the hammocks strung around the large property. The spa’s café, an open timber-paneled space with floor-to-ceiling windows, serves freshly prepared soups, sandwiches, salads, and smoothies.

Old Québec can be a little hard on the wallets of budget travelers. It’s not that the restaurants are overpriced, but they definitely cater to the tourists who fill its streets most days, especially in the warmer months, and who are happy to pay a little extra for the location and the opportunity to enjoy a long meal savoring some Québecois dishes. Le Chic Shack is a good option, however, if you are looking for a quick meal that’s a good value. The restaurant’s gourmet burgers include beef, bison, chicken, and veggie ones, all served on brioche rolls. There are also three different choices of poutine—classic cheese, braised beef, and wild mushroom. Try the restaurant’s rendition of a milkshake, or lait frappé, spiked with Baileys, Kahlua, or whiskey if you are in the mood for something stronger.

Why we love it: A city slicker–approved beach retreat with a vibrant art collection

The Highlights:
- The secret indoor pool up a staircase from the main pool area
- Fresh-baked breads by pastry chef Simone Colla served daily in the Filosofía restaurant
- An entryway featuring a rare sculpture by KAWS and vintage armchairs hung like swings from the ceiling

The Review:
The people watching is just as entertaining as the artwork at Casa Malca, a mansion once maintained by Colombian drug lord Pablo Escobar but now owned by New York gallerist and art collector Leo Malca. Set on a Caribbean-facing swath of sand next to the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve—and just a short bike ride from Tulum’s beachfront boutiques and restaurants—the hotel features 71 rooms, complete with polished concrete floors, floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the ocean, and bold artwork from Malca’s personal collection. A black-and-white print inspired by Keith Haring covers the lobby bar, while antique baby dolls adorn the walls in one of the hotel’s three restaurants. The pool and beach areas are more sedate, with cerulean daybeds and colorful hammocks studded like jewels among the leafy palms.

Officially named the Emperor’s Cathedral of St. Bartholomew, Frankfurt’s main church is recognizable for its striking 328-foot-tall tower. Dating back to the 13th century, the cathedral is also famous for the fact that its Wahlkapelle (election chapel) served as the location for selecting Holy Roman emperors from the 14th to the 18th centuries. Rebuilt following an 1867 fire and again after World War II, the church features a traditional Romanesque cross-shaped floor plan and high altar decorated with a 15th-century retable depicting the life of Christ. Other highlights include the Maria Schlaf Altar in the Mary Chapel, created in 1434, and the choir stalls, which date all the way back to 1352. Added in the 15th century, the tower holds 328 steps, which visitors can climb for sweeping views of the city. There’s also a small on-site museum with precious liturgical objects, plus organ recitals and other concerts throughout the year.

You don’t know you need a paperweight shaped like a dumpling until you see it. Hidden behind sliding doors on an unassuming street corner in Shanghai‘s Jing’an District, Spin is the best place in the city to buy modern Chinese ceramics. The shop works with artists in Jingdezhen, China’s porcelain capital, to make original, limited-edition works of art at competitive prices, from a small porcelain and wood display table to delicate celadon-green teacups and dainty chopstick rests shaped like chili peppers. Spin ships worldwide at a reasonable cost, so you don’t have to worry about lugging a vase the size of a small child through Asia.

Only in Berlin could a hulking, aboveground World War II‒era concrete bunker, right in the center of the city, be turned into an art gallery. The structure—too bulky to be blown up after the war—was transformed in 2008 by collector-curator Christian Boros, who lives in a penthouse on top of the building. After extensive renovation, the lower floors house the Boros Collection, around 500 works of art spanning sculpture, installations, paintings, and photography. Works change every couple of years but always feature big international names such as Damien Hirst, Olafur Eliasson, Elizabeth Peyton, Wolfgang Tillmans, Manfred Pernice, Ai Weiwei, and Michel Majerus. You can view the collection only on weekends, as part of a guided tour; book an appointment via the website.

Only 10 minutes from downtown Abu Dhabi—but a world away in spirit from the city rush—St. Regis Saaydiyat Island looks like a Mediterranean palace but feels like pure Abu Dhabi. The impressive architecture blends luxe finishes like calacatta marble, chisel-edge stone, and petrified wood with a golden color palette that’s offset with views of the turquoise waves of the Arabian Gulf (look close enough and you might even catch a dolphin swimming in the distance). Indulge in a pampering session at the Iridium Spa, go for retail therapy in the property’s shops, or hit the greens at the Saadiyat Island Golf Club. If that sounds like too much exertion, you might prefer to simply lounge in a cabana near one of four pools while sipping an Arabian Snapper, a classic Bloody Mary made with zaatar spice.

New Delhi’s first modern business and luxury hotel, built in 1965, is a contemporary white box amid a sea of greenery. After a $100 million makeover overseen by starchitect Adam Tihany, The Oberoi now has 220 large rooms inspired by Sir Edwin Lutyens’s original plans for the city, with peacock-blue accents, spacious bathtubs, and super fast WiFi. Beloved restaurant threesixty˚ maintains its see-and-be-seen status thanks to its airier layout, and a new rooftop bar has become the go-to cocktail spot on warm-weather days. But the enthusiastic, attentive staff remains unchanged, earning adoration from repeat guests who appreciate the brand’s reliable and faultless service. Indoor and outdoor pools, a spa, proximity to a large golf course, and the convenient location just south of Delhi Gate make this hotel a great place to relax at the beginning or end of a countrywide tour.

Among the original guests to pop in at Dr. Thomas Bond’s 1769 Georgian home on South Second Street was none other than Benjamin Franklin. Together the duo chartered Pennsylvania Hospital, the first public hospital in America, and Bond was an influential figure in Philadelphia throughout the Revolutionary War into the first turbulent decades following the founding of the country. Today, the four-story red-brick home within Independence National Historical Park has been meticulously restored, offering history buffs a taste of Philadelphia at the dawn of America. Original architectural details restored to their full 18th-century splendor include the modillion cornice at the roofline, the parlor’s Rumford fireplace, and the grand staircase connecting the third and fourth floors that was subsequently copied in other prominent buildings around town, including the still-standing City Tavern.

Each guestroom has been furnished with Federalist-style reproductions, with a few antiques sprinkled around. Ten rooms offer queen beds, with the two original bedrooms nearest the first floor adding small sitting areas with working fireplaces.

Built between 1840 and 1845 by Prince Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, an extremely influential royal family in Europe, the Palais Coburg is a bright and spacious bit of luxury. Opened in 2003 after extensive restoration, the palais has suites (and only suites) that are clean and classy, sometimes even grandiose with antique furniture and vibrantly lit chandeliers. Many suites are named in honor of important members of the family such as Queen Victoria and Albert of England, and King Leopold I of Belgium, so guests will get a lesson in the history of Europe’s intermarried royal families.

Outside is a quiet garden with a water basin, shade trees, and magnolias. The outdoor café provides sanctuary from the city and is a great place to enjoy breakfast. In addition to two marvelous restaurants, Palais Coburg has an excuisite wine cellar with some 60,000 from four different centuries.

Built on the site of Roman and Celtic ruins, the unassuming 5-star Widder Hotel comprises nine medieval townhouses that were painstakingly renovated over a 10-year period by Swiss architect Tilla Theus. The results are jaw-dropping, from the unusual structures such as circular rooms and passages that refer architecturally to a Roman well uncovered during construction, to the mix of antiques and modern designer furnishings (Eames, Frank Lloyd Wright) in the rooms.

Alongside the 35 standard rooms, 14 suites also mix the old with the new, featuring works of art by the likes of Robert Rauschenberg and Andy Warhol, contemporary design classics by Le Corbusier and Mies van der Rohe, and original medieval frescoes, exposed-beam ceilings, and brick or stone walls. All rooms are equipped with a TV, Quadriga communication system, and two telephones.

Widder Hotel also features three great restaurants, a bar with more than 1,000 spirits, and a cozy garden restaurant and lounge open in the warmer months.

This veteran hotel on Tibidabo’s Hill has a history that stretches back to 1924, with its heyday in the ‘50s as a hot spot for wealthy Catalan families and, later, for visiting stars like Ernest Hemingway, James Stewart, and Princess Fabiola. After closing in 1979, La Florida reopened in 2001 in a more postmodern incarnation that blends original features such as wrought iron and antique tapestries with bold stainless-steel and glass accents. Internationally acclaimed artists such as Dale Keller, Rebecca Horn, and Cristina Macaya designed the art nouveau-inspired guestrooms, and the hotel is dotted with contemporary art by a similarly impressive cast—sculptures by British artists Ben Jakober and Yannick Vu and paintings of flowers by Catalan artist Isabel Cruellas, for example.

All the rooms have oak floors, luxurious furniture and fittings, and generously sized marble bathrooms with in-floor heating and separate showers and bathtubs. Terrace rooms face the city and seaside, junior suites have separate living areas, and the presidential suite has an outdoor Jacuzzi and hammocks where you can take in views of the Mediterranean. The hotel features a wonderful restaurant, spa by L’Occitane, open-air swimming pool, and in-house café and bar with regular live music.

From the subtle lighting in the lobby to the seven-story central atrium featuring works by contemporary Russian artist Ekaterina Ganchukova, First Hotel Grims Grenka has a chic, edgy vibe that contrasts nicely with the neighborhood’s Old World surroundings. Themed after each of the four seasons, the accommodations are modern and minimalist in design, with large platform beds, Bang & Olufsen TVs, and single-button mood control lighting, as well as bathrooms with mirrored walls and waterfall showers; larger deluxe rooms have broad-cushioned couches and more than enough space to entertain for those here on business, and some rooms have smart beds that allow you to adjust the firmness to your preference. Outward-facing rooms offer lighted catwalks with views of the surrounding city, while inner-facing rooms have windows overlooking the glass-ceilinged atrium and lobby bar. Don’t miss the updated Nordic cuisine (think salmon pastrami and potato and truffle soup) at Madu restaurant, followed by drinks (during warmer months) at the open-air rooftop lounge.