Search results for

Fes is well-known for producing the best pottery in Morocco. The local gray clay is much more hard-wearing than many clays used further south; items made from this material are often fired at volcanic temperatures, and usually capable of withstanding a microwave or dishwasher. The pots are still painted by hand here. If you’re keen to stock up on treasures for your kitchen or dining room table, you have several options. Several stores along Talaa Kbira stock good-quality tableware, including our favorite, the Fondouk Tazi, which also offers some lovely modern designs. Continue into the bowl of the medina to the Henna Souk to find traditional patterns such as the tomato flower, various Berber motifs, and embroidery-inspired designs. Serious buyers hop in a taxi up to Ain Nokbi, the industrial quarter, to see the potters at work. The shops can also organize big shipments for you, but oversee the packaging yourself if you want it to arrive intact.

Hoshinoya Tokyo is a modern ryokan that gracefully stands between the Imperial Palace and the Journalism Center of Tokyo. Built upon the heritage of Japanese inns, this hotel exudes warmth and minimal elegance from every angle.

At first glance, I was drawn to the understated steel pattern of the facade that’s graphically new, yet mysterious ancient. Once inside, I was immediately soothed by the interior decor and furnishings crafted from the finest woods and fibers native to Japan. On each floor, there is an Ochanoma lounge where you can read or enjoy tea by the diffused light of the shoji screens. My favorite part of the ryokan is the hot springs on the top floor. If you have seen and love the Skyspace series from artist James Turrell, onsen is where you can truly feel connected to earth, water and sky.

I travel for the opportunity to learn and to see things anew. On the subject of Japanese aesthetics, the novelist Jun’ichiro Tanizaki writes “We do not dislike everything that shines, but we do prefer a pensive luster to a shallow brilliance, a murky light that, whether in a stone or an artifact, bespeaks a sheen of antiquity.” I read this as a young design student but it’s only until my stay at the hotel that I vividly saw this sheen of antiquity. I highly recommend Hoshinoya Tokyo for the finest amenities and a chance to experience the modern Japanese approach to beauty and design.

This airy poolside restaurant serves up Curaçao classics like iguana soup, goat stew, and fried funchi, a crispy (and addictive) polenta. But the menu has something for even the pickiest of travelers. In the mood for a regular ol’ burger? Rancho El Sobrino offers one of the best on the island. Can’t get enough fajitas, like Michael from The Office? You’ve got four varieties to choose from here, including a veggie option. After your meal, stroll through the adjacent garden or order your favorite cocktail from the veranda bar—and gaze up: You’ll see a bed frame hanging from the wooden ceiling. Because why not?

Fans of the movie Apocalypse Now probably know it was shot in Baler, some 150 miles northeast of Manila. At the time, locals were already well aware of the area’s killer waves, which caused trouble for the fishermen. But attitudes toward the waves slowly changed, thanks to the film: Residents used the surfboards left behind by the crew to learn to ride them. Surfing culture in the Philippines was born, and the big waves were no longer considered a threat, but rather an opportunity to bring in surfing tourism and events each year from October to February. But Baler has a lot to offer for the non-surfer, too, even if you just sit on the beach and watch the ocean. Couples love the long stretch of sand at Sabang, which is perfect for romantic beach walks, and the sunrise here is a must-see. From a historical perspective, Baler is significant because it was the last stand of Spanish forces in the Philippines; the yearlong siege that began in July 1898 is one of the longest in the country’s recorded history. The undermanned Spanish troops, not knowing the war was over, held onto their fortress in the only stone building in the area, the San Luis Obispo de Tolosa church, for 337 days.

New safari tents at an iconic central California coast resort invite guests to glamp under the redwood trees. Nightly turndown service, included. Big Sur is once again open for business following last spring’s debilitating mud slides, and autumn is an especially luminous time to explore this legendary stretch of central California coast, some 20 miles south of Carmel. Big Sur’s magic lies in its untamed wilderness: redwood groves, chaparral-covered hills, and iconic rocky cliffs that sprout improbably from the ocean. Condors circle overhead and sea otters float just offshore. For many, the isolation—and peace and quiet—that Big Sur offers is the reason to return again and again. For travelers seeking a soft landing, the Ventana Big Sur resort recently reopened under new ownership and after a massive renovation. New glamping cabins have been added to the 59 rooms, suites, and villas spread throughout the resort’s 160 acres. Shaded by redwoods, the 15 safari-style canvas tents come equipped with hickory walking sticks, portable lanterns, and access to a bathhouse with teak-lined showers and heated floors. Guests can enjoy nightly turndown service and the use of fire pits for making s’mores in the evening. As part of the renovation, the Ventana also built an on-site gallery to showcase paintings, sculptures, jewelry, ceramics, and photography by Big Sur’s most renowned artists. And the new Sur House restaurant—helmed by executive chef Paul Corsentino, who worked in New York and Chicago before heading west—houses a 10,000-bottle wine cellar that highlights small-production central coast wineries. Guests eager to embrace the region’s back-to-nature philosophy might appreciate a soak in the heated, clothing-optional Mountain Pool, undoubtedly more pleasant to ease into than the roiling, frigid Pacific Ocean just down the hill. This appeared in the Jan/Feb 2018 issue.

Crowds may swarm upon it daily from sunrise onwards, but exposure hasn’t dulled the impact of the largest religious monument in the world. Commissioned by King Suryavarman II in the 12th century as the centerpiece of the mighty Khmer empire, the structure is inspired by Hindu sacred design and is estimated to have taken around 30 years to build. The biggest surprise upon visiting might be learning that the vast complex of spires, moats, frescoes, cloisters, and balustrades was constructed in such speedy fashion. You won’t be alone while witnessing it, but sunrise over the iconic temple remains one of the essential experiences in Southeast Asia. A return in the afternoon when the camera-toting hordes have dispersed is also advisable.

Started by a British master weaver almost 20 years ago, Mungo weaves a wide range of quality linens, throws, blankets, bedding, towels, and apparel, which are sold internationally. The company says that ethical trading and integrity underpin its philosophy, and it is particular about sourcing quality natural fibers. The linen in raw form comes from Belgium, while the cotton, mohair, and wool are from South Africa. You can view some of Mungo’s weaving on its 19th-century Hattersley looms at its Old Nick Village headquarters, outside Plettenberg Bay. Better yet, just go to the Cape Town store (with its own micromill) on Hout Street and see the products for yourself.

It’s believed that this village located six kilometers (four miles) outside Malacca was founded by the parents of the 15th-century Malaysian warrior Hang Tuah. According to a local legend, when they were sitting by the river, they spotted a mermaid (duyong) and thus the village got its name. Hang Tuah would go on to become a legendary admiral of the Malacca sultanate, which was conquered by the Portuguese in 1511. A visit to Kampung Duyong today offers a chance to see its historic mosque, traditional houses and a well said to have been dug by Hang Tuah with water that is believed to have healing properties. The homes of Hang Tuah along with those of four of his fellow warriors are open to the public.

Visitors to this modern Russian River Valley winery receive a personal greeting and a glass of sparkling wine as they walk up—an appropriate welcome for a relaxed-yet-sophisticated few hours. Most tastings take place in the comfortable and airy Estate House, where all guests enjoy seated tastings under soaring wood ceilings, or outside, on one of three patio terraces overlooking 13 acres of vineyards. Some tastings feature only wine; others incorporate a tour and food and chocolate pairings. Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen specializes in bordeaux-style varieties, which means she only makes chardonnay and pinot noir. Year after year, the wine earns high scores from experts, and the winery garners accolades for mixing estate-grown grapes with some of the best fruit the Russian River Valley has to offer from farming families such as the Duttons, Sangiacomos, Martinellis, and Bacigalupis. The highlight of the in-person experience is the view; the Estate House sits atop a hill, offering visitors panoramic vistas of Sonoma County in just about every direction. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Mount St. Helena, more than 40 miles east. On gray days, you can look into the fog—the natural feature responsible for keeping temperatures cool and making Russian River wines so good.

Tepotzlán is the perfect day trip from Mexico City. A strange and wonderful mixture of colonial heritage and architecture, new age spirituality, and peaceful mountain vistas, this town certainly deserves its UNESCO designation as one of Mexico’s “pueblos mágicos.” According to legend, this town sits on the birthplace of the Aztec serpent god Quetzacóatl, and its impressive pyramid (“Pirámide de Tepozteco,” built in honor of Tepoztécatl, the Aztec god of the harvest) is now a gathering place not only for pre-Colombian enthusiasts, but seekers of all kinds who believe it to be a generator of groovy vibes. The pyramid is located at the top of of a cliff above the town and the 2km hike is recommended only for the physically fit. If you do go, start out early before it gets too hot and bring plenty of water. Tepotzlán also offers plenty of more down-to-earth attractions, like a beautifully preserved historic center, a selection of nice restaurants and hotels, a bustling crafts market, an interesting monastery and museum, and a world renowned cooking school (lavillabonita.com). For breathtaking views of the valley and cliffs, have a meal at La Sibarita, which is perched on a hill high above town.

Fushimi Inari Taisha on Inariyama mountain is dedicated to the Shinto gods of rice and sake, but Inari is also the god of merchants and that brings a lot of businesspeople to worship here. Everyone else stops by to see the thousands of vermilion torii, or gates (each of which is funded by a Japanese company). They lead to the main shrine, which was built in 1499. Walking underneath the gates is like passing through a fiery tangerine tunnel, and visitors leave behind tiny torii replicas as part of their prayer.

This “Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven” was once the heart of Korea. It was the power center of the Joseon dynasty (1392–1897), and was originally built in 1395—some new digs for a new dynasty. Like the Forbidden City in Beijing, the palace is a complex of buildings—a throne hall, the king’s living quarters and more—a sort of city inside a city, accented by gardens and pavilions. The Japanese flattened the place in the 1590s, and the site remained a ruin until a complete reconstruction in 1867 brought back more than 500 buildings. At the Gwanghwamun Gate, soldiers, beautifully costumed in red robes, still perform the changing of the guard. Seoul has other palaces, but this is the one to see if your time in town is limited.

For a place that’s best known for its buttermilk biscuits, Juniper & Ivy seems improbably swanky at first. Picture curtained-off banquettes, modern light fixtures, and painstakingly turned-out patrons. But the upscale/down-home contrast is exactly the point. Trendsetting chef Richard Blais, of Top Chef All Stars fame, is known for starting with American classics—say, buttermilk biscuits—and elevating them (in this case, with individual serving domes full of biscuit-infusing alderwood smoke). Similarly, the New York strip steak deviates from the norm with crispy sunchokes and mushroom sofrito, among other touches. Then there’s the semi-secret menu item: the so-called In-N-Haute burger, made from a blend of short rib, brisket, chuck and dry-aged beef, then wrapped and seared in cheese before landing on an egg bun next to a heap of salt-and-pepper-dusted fries. Although you’ll be tempted to order something from the wine collection that spans two stories—if only to see the sliding library ladder in use—you should at least consider one of the cocktails, and particularly the Salt of the Earth: mezcal, tequila, Ancho Reyes liqueur, beet juice, lemon juice, mole bitters, honey, and cracked salt. This magenta elixir is almost too pretty to drink. Almost.

Starting out as one of the United Arab Emirates’ first food trucks, Meylas is no longer so much about grabbing a quick bite of local culture on the go, as it is about experiencing the traditional flavours in a small cafe decorated like a “canteen” from a bygone era. You will feel like you’re at the start of the modern development in the UAE. Dallah (traditional coffee pots), henna, shopping bags, postcards, and children’s games are on display and for sale if you choose to take a bit of that culture home with you.


Of course, the food and hospitality is at the center of attention. Locally sourced ingredients contribute to chbaab, a pancake served with date syrup and salonat badu, the traditional bedouin stew made with chicken or lamb. At the end of the meal, you’ll find several sweets like khabees that are spiced with cardamom and saffron or legeimat, which reminds me of a donut hole sweetened with dates syrup and topped with sesame seeds. Coffees and teas are prepared the way they used to be and should not be passed up at the end of the meal while you mull over the days events. I recommend ordering a smattering of anything that looks interesting off the menu to share.

Deshaies Botanical Garden is one of the largest in the Caribbean and a simple stroll through its 12 acres is a treat. Expect to see flamingos, hummingbirds, parrots, and goats, as well as over 200 species of tropical flora, including hibiscus, orchids, various palm trees, and bougainvillea. There’s a fishpond, cascade, and plenty of shaded areas. The on-site restaurant is a great spot to relax with a cocktail and panoramic views over the gardens and Caribbean Sea.