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  • The Best Things to Do in St. Croix

    It’s one of the three isles that make up the U.S. Virgin Islands, and though St. Croix is the largest—measuring 218 square kilometers (84 square miles)—it’s the least visited of the trio. Perhaps that’s because much of the island has been set aside as parkland, which means fewer tourist hubs and more space dedicated to natural wonders, including pristine beaches and primo snorkeling and diving. But St. Croix also boasts many excellent historical sites. At various times it was controlled by Spain, Britain, France, the Netherlands and Denmark; the latter’s influence is the most visible in the architecture of St. Croix’s charming capital city of Christiansted, on the northern coast. Frederiksted, on the western point of the island, is a busy port surrounded by some significant colonial attractions, with a restored sugar estate and an 18th-century fort being among the most noteworthy. Here you’ll also find a family-run rum distillery and many restaurants and shops.

    December 16, 2020 01:21 PM
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    Staff
  • Can a Spiritual Quest to India Heal a Broken Heart?
    Health + Wellness
    Can a Spiritual Quest to India Heal a Broken Heart?
    After a string of personal losses, a writer heads to Tamil Nadu seeking solace from her sorrows. It takes two temples, a palm leaf astrologer, and the driver of a velour-lined taxi to make her feel whole again.
    December 2, 2011 11:18 AM
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    Lisa Abend
  • Barcelona’s Local Catch
    In the Magazine
    Barcelona’s Local Catch
    In the city’s once-gritty fishermen’s quarter, a group of activist chefs is reviving—and reinventing—traditional cuisine.
    January 3, 2012 01:45 PM
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    Tom Downey
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    In the Magazine
    Learning to Understand the South, One Note at a Time
    An aspiring bluegrass fiddler from London discovers much more than music on a trip to North Carolina.
    June 11, 2012 06:44 PM
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    Emma John
  • The Best of St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands

    St. John is the least developed and most sparsely populated of the three main islands in the U.S. Virgin Islands. That’s not surprising, since more than half its land is protected as a U.S. National Park. Most visitors reach St. John by ferry from St. Thomas, landing at the dock in Cruz Bay, St. John’s main settlement. A village with only a few thousand residents, Cruz Bay has gained a reputation as an upscale retreat for movie stars and other high-profile people looking for a secluded getaway.

    It all started back in 1956, when businessman and conservationist Laurance Rockefeller, who had bought extensive land holdings on St. John, opened the low-key but luxurious Caneel Bay Resort. It’s still going strong, and visitors can stop in for lunch and a swim in the beautiful bay. Rockefeller later donated much of his estate to the national park.

    Snorkelers should make time for an underwater tour in Trunk Bay, where the National Park Service maintains a submarine snorkeling trail. And no sightseeing drive around the island is complete without a stop to see the fabulous panoramic view from the Bordeaux Mountain Overlook. Back in the town, the boutiques at Mongoose Junction offer one-of-a-kind souvenirs, while Cruz Bay Landing is a perfect spot to grab lunch and drinks.

    December 16, 2020 01:21 PM
     · 
    Travis Marshall
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    Volcano Village Estates
    11-3968 Hale Ohia Rd., Volcano, Island of Hawaii
    In the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it village of Volcano, on the slopes of Mauna Loa and just outside of Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, are a handful of B&Bs and cottage rentals (see also Volcano Rainforest Retreat). Among the oldest—but no less charming for its 25 years—is Volcano Village Estate (previously known as Hale Ohia).


    It’s a small cottage colony, with guest quarters scattered around a two-acre estate thickly carpeted in emerald-green moss and shaded by stands of soaring sugi (Japanese cedar) trees. The main house, a quirky Queen Anne style Victorian with a miniature turret and stone chimney that make it look like it was lifted right out of a children’s storybook, dates back to the 1930s when the manager of a sugar plantation built it as a summer holiday home. The gardens were planted by the same master landscape architects responsible for the Liliʻuokalani Gardens in Hilo (at one time the largest Edo style garden outside of Japan).


    All guest quarters are sweetly decorated, in a largely Craftsman style with ceramic tiles and soft woods; some have pretty, stained-glass windows. But on a chilly Volcano night—and most of them are since the town sits at 4,000 feet—nothing is quite as romantic as curling up by the fireplace in one of the three stand-alone cottages, unless, of course, it’s sitting in the garden and watching the dazzling night sky, which is reason enough to stay on this side of the island.
    November 20, 2023 08:17 PM
     · 
    Deborah Dunn
  • Amsterdam, Going Dutch
    Travel Inspiration
    Going Dutch
    In Amsterdam, Chris Colin asks why the locals are so friendly, so relaxed, so … tall. A search for the untranslatable.
    October 4, 2011 04:47 PM
     · 
    Chris Colin
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    Brasswood Bar + Kitchen
    3111 St. Helena Hwy, St. Helena, CA 94574, USA
    Brasswood Bar + Kitchen is part of Brasswood Estate, a sprawling complex at the north end of St. Helena, comprises a winery, tasting room, restaurant, café, art gallery, and bottle shop. The property was formerly known as Cairdean Estate but was rebranded in 2016. Like many eateries in Napa, this one features local bounty—produce and protein grown in Napa and surrounding counties. Executive chef David Nuno specializes in Italian cuisine, so everything has a bit of a Mediterranean flair. In the restaurant, the duck Bolognese, with duck from Sonoma, is rich and savory; the herb-crusted lamb chop is made with local lamb, as well. The artisan bakery serves food in a less-formal setting; here, pay for your white corn soup or mushroom salad at the counter, and enjoy it by the fountain on the plaza outside.
    April 12, 2022 03:36 PM
     · 
    Matt Villano
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    Inn on Biltmore Estate
    1 Antler Hill Rd, Asheville, NC 28803, USA
    On a hilltop perch overlooking 8,000 acres of grounds designed by famed landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, the Inn on Biltmore Estate’s 210 rooms and suites evoke traditional 19th-century manor houses, with dark mahogany beds and desks, billowing window treatments, and comfortable overstuffed chairs; book a room with a balcony to breathe fresh mountain air while appreciating views of rolling hills—or simply take in the vista from the hotel’s veranda. The formal dining room showcases seasonal specialties using estate-raised cattle and lamb, vegetables from the on-site garden, and wine from the property’s own winery, where you can participate in a free tasting, then ride back in a complimentary shuttle. If you’re looking for something more casual, the lobby lounge and library bar offer salads and sandwiches—and no dress code. But the main attraction is the 250-room Biltmore château, the Gilded Age mansion George Vanderbilt built here in the late 1800s, and its 16th-century tapestries, Renoir and Sargent originals, and 65 fireplaces.
    April 20, 2021 04:57 PM
     · 
    Deb Hopewell
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    Delaire Graff Estate
    Helshoogte Rd, Stellenbosch, South Africa
    While most travelers visit the Cape Winelands in the spring or fall, Delaire Graff is a year-round destination. At the estate’s Wine Lounge, guests can enjoy a glass of wine on the outdoor terrace during the summer, or cozy up by the crackling fire in winter, enjoying the famous view through floor-to-ceiling windows. The wines here range from elegant reds with soft tannins to white wines that capture the freshness of the harvest.

    Those craving a more complete experience should know that Delaire is also a Relais & Châteaux property with an on-site spa and six separate lodges. Book a massage and you’ll enjoy full use of the pool, steam room, and sauna as well as a tasting in the Wine Lounge post-treatment, or stay overnight in the Owner’s Suite, which features a heated plunge pool and views of Table Mountain.
    April 20, 2021 04:56 PM
     · 
    Sarah Buder
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    Shinn Estate Farmhouse Inn
    2000 Oregon Rd, Mattituck, NY 11952, USA
    On the North Fork of Long Island, Shinn Estate Farmhouse Inn is tucked away on a peaceful vineyard. Rooms are in the estate’s historic 1880s homestead, and guests get to experience life on the vineyard—and taste the final product in the winery’s tasting rooms. There is also a lovely front porch and gazebo for kicking back with a glass of wine. A cozy wood-burning stove in the reception area is an ideal spot on a chilly day. Breakfast here is a slow and civilized affair, starting with hot coffee and finishing with a full farmhouse hot breakfast from chef David Page, made from farm-fresh ingredients. This is the pastoral North Fork at its best, designed for lazy afternoons, sleeping in, and one too many glasses of wine.
    April 20, 2021 04:06 PM
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    Jessica Colley Clarke
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    Warwick Estate
    R44, Stellenbosch, 7607, South Africa
    If you’re seeking a quirky yet educational winetasting experience in South Africa, look no further than Warwick Estate’s “Big Five Wine Safari.” While you won’t see any lions in Stellenbosch, your guide may help you spot a falcon or two while you cruise around the vineyard. Here, the Big Five refers to the five types of wine grapes planted on Warwick’s farm, from cabernet sauvignon and sauvignon blanc to pinotage, merlot, and cabernet franc. Board Warwick’s safari-style vehicle and leave the driving to your guide as you enjoy the views—and the wine. Advance bookings are recommended.
    April 20, 2021 04:01 PM
     · 
    Matt Long
  • Duck_20Parade_20at_20Vergenoegd_20Marie_20Frei-1165.jpg
    Duck Parade at Vergenoegd Löw Wine Estate
    1 Faure Village Rd, Stellenbosch Farms, Cape Town, 7131, South Africa
    The daily duck parade at Vergenoegd Löw Wine Estate is quite the sight to behold. Every morning at 10 a.m., a single caller uses different whistles and motions to corral some one thousand Indian Runner ducks away from their pond and onto the grounds of the wine estate. While entertaining to watch, the parade is performed for more than just amusement—the ducks have been helping with pest control in the vineyards since 1984, devouring hundreds of snails, slugs, and other unwanted insects each day.

    Recently, the vineyard also started working with WWF South Africa and other conservation agencies in the region on a project related to indigenous waterfowl habitat rehabilitation. Learn all about it on a visit, and be sure to ask about touring the duck pen and breeding area with one of the herders.
    April 20, 2021 04:59 PM
     · 
    Marie Frei
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    Round Pond Estate
    875 Rutherford Rd, Napa, CA 94558, USA
    Wine, as they say, belongs at the table. Yet most tasting rooms offer only the wine. For a richer experience, seek out wineries that offer food pairings or, better yet, an entire meal. At Robert Sinskey winery, cookbook author and Chef Maria Helm Sinskey pairs bites made with ingredients from their garden with the new releases of Pinot Noir and the excellent Abraxas, a blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Gewurztraminer. Round Pond Estate takes it a step further — the four-course lunch served on the terrace uses all biodynamically farmed produce, vinegar and honey from the estate as well as olive oil that is crushed by stone just a stone’s throw from the winery.
    April 20, 2021 04:56 PM
     · 
    Staff
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    Château Mouton Rothschild
    Château Mouton Rothschild, 33250 Pauillac, France
    A benchmark name in Bordeaux wines, Mouton Rothschild is also one of France’s greatest wine producers. At the estate—the first of two Rothschild estates in Pauillac (the second is the renowned Château Lafitte)—you’ll want to explore everything from the winemaking facilities to the two excellent museums (one covers the history of the château, while the other houses the original works by artists like Chagall and Warhol that have appeared on Mouton Rothschild’s labels since 1945). Tastings are also available here, so leave plenty of time to enjoy this sophisticated estate to the fullest.
    April 20, 2021 04:59 PM
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    Jennifer Ladonne