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For a night of music, soul food, and raucous fun, head to Madam’s Organ, a local landmark in the Adams Morgan neighborhood. It’s not hard to find this place; look for the large mural of “Madam” on the side of the building and an entrance that defies description (“urban junkyard,” perhaps?). Inside, things are just as wacky—don’t touch the taxidermy and don’t try to figure out the signs—and the crowd eclectic. Madam’s Organ dishes up live music every night of the week, mainly blues and bluegrass. There are multiple levels: live music on one, pool on another, lounge on another floor, and finally, the rooftop for views of the city. Warning: This place packs a big crowd on the weekends, as the fun and noise level ramp up.

Don’t go looking for Casa Grande, the national monument of pre-Columbian ruins, in Casa Grande, the sprawling exurb of a town about halfway between Phoenix and Tucson. You have to drive about 20 miles away to the small town of Coolidge to find the site. This may not be the most scenic stretch of desert, it must be said, but the destination is worth the detour. The Hohokam culture built this complex of dwellings and irrigation canals—one of many—late in their tenure here. Erected in the 1300s, this particular site was abandoned by the mid-1400s—the end of perhaps a thousand years of irrigated agriculture in the Sonoran Desert. The network of villages and canals continue to fascinate archaeologists and urban planners. The “big house” (Casa Grande was named by the first Spanish explorers in the area) stands about four stories tall. In the 1930s, the current shelter was built to protect it from further erosion. (Look carefully: you might catch a glimpse of the resident horned owls.) The timbers needed for construction came from the mountains about 50 miles away; at the time there were no pack animals, and thus no wheeled vehicles in this desert—makes you think... The surrounding ballgame-courts show influence from Mesoamerica. Desert civilization in North America is often thought of as a recent phenomenon—take the 20th-century explosions of Las Vegas, Phoenix, etc. Dig deeper, and get off the interstate. The past is not remote, and this is an easy day trip from Tucson.

With award-winning restaurants such as the rustic Italian Esther’s Kitchen and epic dive bars like the Silver Stamp, the Arts District has emerged as the place for locals looking to unwind and visitors who want to live the way actual Las Vegans do. (Needless to say, most locals avoid the Strip.) The adults-only English hotel, named after founding partner and celebrity chef Todd English, offers the area’s swankiest accommodations. Visitors who aren’t into gambling will appreciate that there’s no casino here, and for points travelers, the hotel is part of Marriott’s independent Tribute Portfolio collection. All 74 guest rooms are minimalist with neutral tones; each has a stocked bar cart and an open chifforobe for hanging clothes. Bathroom showers have an ingenious hole in the glass wall so guests can turn on the water without getting soaked.


One of the Arts District’s buzzier restaurants is the English’s own Pepper Club. Since chef English set the place in motion in the spring of 2022, the upscale Japanese and Mediterranean restaurant (English was careful not to call it “fusion”) is now under the auspices of chef Roman Allen Sarmiento, who specializes in sushi platters with fish flown in fresh multiple times each week. Sarmiento also has his own sake business—ask for a taste of his special dry elixir at the bar.

Related: 7 Hotels to Book for “Non-Vegas” People

It should come as no surprise that Seattle has an umbrella boutique downtown. What might be a surprise is the fact that you can rent umbrellas by the day (and that a single day’s rental might be what you were expecting to pay to purchase one outright). Fanciful, elaborate umbrellas with layers of brightly colored ruffles, asymmetrical shapes, and unique prints hang from the ceiling in an eye-catching display that’s worth stopping in just to see. For a sunny day, a lightweight paper parasol might be just the thing for portable shade (though you’ll find them cheaper in the International District). Locals tote the clear plastic “bubble” umbrella, which has a hemispherical shape to offer more coverage and a transparent material so you won’t sacrifice visibility.

El Charro sits in a converted set of historic houses & buildings a block off Tucson’s old town district—the same location where it began serving food in 1922. We had lunch here, at a big old wooden table in a warmly decorated dining room. Ask to be seated inside, or else in the garden, if the weather’s amenable. It’s a bit cold and dim in the front of the restaurant. I had an amazing vegetarian burrito, stuffed with roasted veggies, avocado and a green corn tamale. The others went for the excellent chimichangas, reputedly invented here (you can read the story on the menu). The special-brewed beer, an amber, was great, the salsa verde addictive, the decor a great talking point.

Le Bon Café is a teeny neighborhood cafe located in the shadow of the Capitol and surrounding landmarks like the Library of Congress and the Supreme Court. The café’s menu is short—pastries and breakfast sandwiches in the morning, and soups, salads, and sandwiches for lunch. Le Bon also serves up a cup of decent coffee. Nothing complicated, just simple fare that’s satisfying and you don’t have to wait long to get it or lose your wallet for it—everything on the menu is very reasonably priced by D.C. standards. It’s no wonder that this is a popular place for Capitol Hill staffers to grab a bite for breakfast or lunch. There are just a handful of tables inside and a few more outside. If you want to do some networking, Eat at Le Bon and you’ll likely be rubbing shoulders with someone who works on the Hill! Otherwise, grab something to go, head down to any of the green areas near the Capitol building, and enjoy a picnic meal.

Just 30 miles from the southern gate of Zion National Park, Quail Creek State Park surrounds a 600-acre reservoir that boasts some of the warmest waters in Utah. Its consistently mild climate draws year-round tourists and day-trippers eager to boat, fish, and swim in the clear blue water. The park is also home to a spacious campground, which proves a popular alternative for Zion visitors who want to stay in a red-rock-desert setting.

The newest Yountville venture by Chef Thomas Keller and his restaurant group opened in January 2019. The casual Mexican eatery welcomes diners with bright, festive decor and crockery sourced from artisans in Mexico. Though Keller’s name earned the spot a ton of buzz long before its opening, Chef de Cuisine Kaelin Ulrich Trilling is the real culinary captain of the place. In addition to highlighting dishes from his native Oaxaca, Chef Kaelin honors flavors from across Mexico in a menu which features dishes like tostada de nopales (grilled cactus), pollo en mole negro (chicken in mole), tacos al pastor (pork with pineapple) and a tres leches cake that’s worth the trip alone. But above all, Trilling and his team are committed to embodying the restaurant’s name. “A calenda is a celebration,” says Trilling, “and the name is to bring to Napa Valley a sense of fun and Mexican culture. You come in, have a great meal, but we want you to feel like you’re relaxed and hving a good time, maybe sipping a good mescal.” So far, they’re hitting the mark.

Goblin Valley State Park is famous for its series of mushroom-shaped rock formations, also known as hoodoos. While there are a few established trails within the park, the namesake attraction offers three square miles of open landscape, which visitors are free to explore on their own. Beyond the Valley of Goblins, there are seven miles of easy-to-moderate mountain-biking paths, which make five separate loops in various corners of the park. Since it’s so far from any population centers, the area also offers incredible stargazing.

“When bands are in town, I send them to the instrument shop ST Music, which is a five-minute walk away from the calligraphy tool shop, Geng Yen Jai. They sell an instrument called the pipa, which is like a Chinese guitar, plus Chinese flutes and very tiny Chinese hand cymbals.” —KK Yeh

This appeared in the November/December 2017 issue.

A must-stop on the traditional handicraft circuit, this massive market—stretching four city blocks in Miraflores!—is home to stall after stall of kitschy bric-a-brac, pre-Columbian–style pottery, alpaca everything and an endless array of Andes-inspired arts and crafts. Come and shop around.

September 2,1935, Labor Day - a hurricane hit the Florida Keys and was the first Category 5 Hurricane to make landfall in the United States. It was devastating! It struck at night and was terrifying as was recorded by any survivors.185 mile sustained winds fed the storm.The storm surge was 18 -20'. It destroyed everything in its way. Most buildings in Islamorada were leveled. The ramshackle camps of the railway workers in Windley Key and Lower Matecumbe Key were swept away. About 200 WW I Vets at the camps were killed. Henry Flagler’s dream of a railway that would connect the Keys to the mainland died that night. The railroad was torn up and was never rebuilt. A roadway -The Overseas Highway, US 1- was constructed in its place. The Keys were accessible by the road and its bridges. Only Gilbert (1988), and Wilma (2005) have surpassed the strength of the 1935 storm. The monument at MM 82 in Islamorada was unveiled in 1937 and about 4000 persons attended the dedication. The stone crypt in front of the marker holds the victims’ ashes from the makeshift pyres after the storm. In 1995, the memorial was added to the United States National Register of Historic Places. Locals, hurricane survivors, and descendants of the victims care for the monument. I stopped to visit the site. I stood there picturing the howling winds, the wall of water and recalled the stories and photos from that September, 1935. So many lost their lives and so many survivors’ lives changed overnight.

Cal Anderson Park (named after Washington’s first openly gay legislator) is located at the Pike/Pine nexus of gay-friendly, hipster-filled Capitol Hill. With plenty of grassy lawns for picnics, reading, or playing bocce ball, it’s no surprise that crowds flock here whenever there’s a sunny day anytime of year. It’s also conveniently located near some great shops and restaurants: Molly Moon Ice Cream, Rock Box karaoke, Cure, Cupcake Royale, Unicorn, Elliott Bay Book Company, Everyday Music, and all the cheap eats on Broadway. Grab some takeout or a coffee to go and head to the park to admire the fountain or enjoy some people-watching. On Sundays, the Broadway Farmers Market is just a block away on Broadway.

I love public art and one of my favorites is “The Awakening,” which was created by the famed American sculptor, J. Seward Johnson, Jr. The Awakening is an iconic sculpture was originally installed by the artist at Hains Point in Washington, D.C., but was moved to National Harbor in 2008 when the developers purchased it. The Awakening consists of five separate pieces of metal, embedded in the ground, giving the impression of a giant man struggling to free himself from the ground. The left hand and right foot look like normal body parts. The left right hand, bent leg, and the bearded face with mouth mid-scream, are the parts that convey the pain of the man’s struggle to free himself. At any given moment, you will someone posing in front of one body part or another for a photo op. Kids especially love to clamber onto the man’s head. You can tell from the photo which part are my favorites! The way the foot and the fingers bent, the veins and folds of the skin—it’s all amazingly realistic. At National Harbor, The Awakening has been installed at the small beach area by the marina. It’s a great place to let the kids loose to have fun in the sand, and for the adults to admire a great piece of public art!

Arizona’s best hotels are as varied as its landscapes. Everywhere from the Grand Canyon to downtown Phoenix to Camelback Mountain, you’ll find glamping retreats, dude ranches, spa-centric stays, historic hotels, and even boutique properties with design-forward guest rooms. Whether you’re seeking a kid-friendly spot for a family road trip or a secluded resort for a romantic getaway, you’ll find it all in the Grand Canyon State.