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You will be served good Portuguese food by the owner, Mr. Cerqueira, and you will feel like home. He knows the locals who come here often, and he knows already what each one of them likes, making a bit of conversation with them. You can reach the restaurant by catching Lavra Lift. Or, at Rossio look for Calçada de Sant’Ana, near the theater, and go up. Address: Calçada de Sant’Ana, 49

To open this all-organic small-plates newcomer near Sé Cathedral, Chef António Galapito imported a caravan of culinary wizardry from the U.K.'s Taberna do Mercado (the London restaurant of Michelin-starred chef Nuno Mendes), including four members of the kitchen staff. The daily menu is an imaginative—challenging, at times—procession of flavor and fun. Standouts might include a charred purple broccoli with buckwheat in a tangy red pepper coulis; a black pork tenderloin with quinces and chocolate peppers; or a portobello mushroom ice cream with pearl barley, sea lettuce flakes, and pork-fat salted caramel (you read that right). Whatever’s on, it will surprise and dazzle even the most blasé of foodies while recalibrating your idea of what Portuguese cuisine is and can be.

Le Chat has an awesome view, it’s just perfect to finish the day or to have a long lunch. You can enjoy the view over the 25th April Bridge and the Tagus River to the other shore and maybe you will see a cruise ship leaving Lisbon and heading towards the ocean. This glass cube of a joint—near the National Museum of Ancient Art—offers seats inside and outside on a terrace. Even in winter the terrace is appealing, with heat lamps and blankets provided. Rather than ordering a full meal, share some appetizers like sweet potato chips, sautéed shrimp, and a traditional Portuguese dish, Peixinhos da Horta (batter-fried green beans), while enjoying the fresh air and expansive views.

There is a fado song proclaiming that all artists and fado singers come to A Tendinha, here in one of the oldest areas in Lisbon, founded in 1840.


At Rossio, between the old cafes like Suiça and Nicola and on the other side of the D. Maria II National Theatre, next to Arco da Bandeira, you will find this little tasca. Here you can eat ham or fresh cheese sandwiches, bifana (pork sandwich) or some fried petiscos (snacks) like the Pastel de Bacalhau, a codfish cake, and shrimp croquettes. Ask for a beer or red wine from the house to accompany.

A residential neighborhood with traditional commerce, and considered to be the most peaceful in Lisbon, this neighborhood brings together the best of life conditions to those who call this home. Taste a chocolate cake at the pastry shop which sells “The Best Chocolate Cake in the World” (Rua Coelho da Rocha, 99, next to the market). Then walk off your calories by visiting Santo Condestável’s Church, an emblematic monument which was designed by Vasco Regaleira, the architect of the “new churches.”

Founded in the early 1950s by European film archive pioneer Manoel Ribeiro, this museum’s mission is to safeguard film heritage. In the Cupid Room is an exhibit of Magic Lanterns, an apparatus for projecting images onto glass painted in translucent colors. Also there are several collections of sound, lighting, video, decorative objects, and pre-cinema devices. Indie film festivals take place here too. In the bookshop you can find not only film books but also DVDs. And on the same floor, on a nice terrace, you’ll find a restaurant.

If you’re looking for a pizzeria, this is the place; you will find the best pizzas in town—in a perfect location. Pizzeria Casanova was opened by Maria Paola Porru, an Italian woman living in Portugal for 30 years.

With long tables, the chances of meeting a stranger or making a new friend are quite good. There is a nice terrace outside (heated in winter and freshened in summer) just in front of the river, though the view can be blocked when a cruise ship is in town.

Inside, you can see the thin-crust pizzas coming out of the oven, and lamps above your head allow you to “call” the waiter via a switch.

By the way, if you have a desire for pizza at midnight, catch the metro to Santa Apolónia—where the kitchen is still open but you will probably find a line, even at that time.

Santa Luzia offers you a panoramic view over Alfama, where you can make out the Alfama labyrinth. From here, you can see Santa Engrácia Dome (also known as National Pantheon), Santo Estevão Church, and the two white towers from São Miguel Church. Here you can also find two tile panels, one from Praça do Comércio (before the earthquake) and the other one with Christians attacking São Jorge Castle. Stone benches offer a place to sit and enjoy the views while someone plays music nearby. Or you can appreciate the paintings for sale, usually with trams as themes. Also, you’ll find a restaurant with a terrace. To get here, catch Tram N28.

To get to know the neighborhood and its daily life, nothing beats a stroll through Alfama’s streets. It is the oldest and one of the most typical neighborhoods in Lisbon. Here you might see two women chatting at the window (well, screaming) while hanging the laundry; people sitting outside on small wooden benches or the entrance steps to old houses; and, of course, people listening to fado. The sounds of fado can come from a fado restaurant or from an old tavern (here fado is called Fado Vadio since it is sung by nonprofessionals after drinking aguardiente). On the nights of June 12 and 13, Alfama celebrates Santos Populares, when the streets are adorned with colorful little flags, the air is aromatic with smoke and smell of sardines, the beer is flowing, and music is everywhere.

Superstar chef José Avillez’s flagship dining destination is considered the country’s top restaurant. One of Lisbon’s Michelin two-starred affairs (the other is Alma) and fresh off a recent refurbishment, Belcanto is indeed the perfect place to enjoy Portugal’s rich bounty in the most wonderous, creative, and experimental of ways. The classic tasting menu (€165) nets you Avillez’s signature Garden of the Goose that Laid the Golden Eggs (egg, crunchy bread, and mushrooms), his most famous work of culinary art. More experimental is the Evolution menu (€185), where dishes such as sea bass with smoked avocado, pistachio oil, lime zest, and dashi push boundaries of tradition. It’s a tough choice, especially considering the classic menu ends with Avillez’s wicked cold citrus bomb of a dessert, Tangerine. Belcanto rang in at No. 42 on the coveted 2019 World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

In the 20th century, the Church of Santa Engrácia was converted into the national pantheon, in which important Portuguese personalities are buried. The first stone of the present building was placed in 1682; it was the first baroque-style building in the country. The work lasted so long that it gave rise to the popular expression “works of Santa Engrácia” to designate something that never ends. It took 284 years to complete the church, finally finished in the year 1966. Inside you will find the interior paved in colored marble, and outside you can’t miss the giant dome. There is a terrace at the top—you only have to climb 187 steps—but then you can enjoy the wonderful view over the river and the city itself. Among the illustrious personages buried here is the famous fado singer Amália Rodrigues. Sundays and public holidays are free until 2pm. To get there, take Bus 734 (at Martim Moniz) or Tram 28.

Thanks to the grandson of the founder (Manuel Aquino de Azevedo Rua), who now manages the shop, this lovely place is still open. Notable people like Fernando Pessoa and Spain’s King Carlos have been among its customers. Even with fashion changes over the years, the hat shop has been able to keep on going, adapting to new times. It has hats for men and women. Do you need a wedding hat, a beret, or a fancy number with plumes? Take a look at this shop.

This kind of shop has almost everything, and it’s where I go when I need something and don’t know where to look for it. Also, the service is quite personalized. They sell things like beauty items, cleaning products for the house, strong detergents, and the famous WD-40. Also you can find nice gifts for men; if they still shave in the old way, you can get a very nice shaving brush. For women, the wonderful Portuguese soaps are wrapped in pretty packages. Some of the soaps are less expensive here, as this is not a tourist shop. Speaking of soaps, I like one called Mariposa, it comes in a very nice package—a good gift. Don’t be surprised if you see soaps from donkey milk or sulphur!

This royal palace was probably much-visited this year, due to an exhibition of Joana Vasconcelos, a very important Portuguese artist. The palace was built on a hill, after being destroyed at its the previous location (in front of the river) in the 1755 earthquake. But it wasn’t finished, because the royal family fled to Brazil during the French invasion. In 1968, it opened as a museum, with important collections of decorative arts of the 18th and 19th centuries, such as furniture, jewelry, textiles, painting, ceramics, photography, and sculpture. Many important state ceremonies take place here as well.

You will feast with your eyes as soon you enter here. Founded in 1829, this confectionery store is considered one of the best in Lisbon, having won international prizes and serving, in the old days, as the official confectioner of the royal family. The King Cake, a very famous Christmas cake in Portugal, was born here; the recipe was brought from Paris in 1850. You will also find miniature pastries: Try to resist. But there is more than cakes. You’ll find a beautiful interior with a marble counter, carved woodwork, tiles, a mirrored ceiling, and a mural of high historical value. And on the second floor, there is now a tearoom.