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Why we love it: A charming European-style inn right in downtown Clayton

The Highlights:
- The kind of friendly service you only get at small hotels
- Complimentary breakfast with farm-fresh eggs and country bacon
- An outdoor patio with fire pits and heat lamps for colder weather

The Review:
Housed in a Tudor Revival–style building from 1926, the Seven Gables Inn sits in the heart of downtown Clayton, surrounded by quaint boutiques, galleries, and restaurants. It stands out among the surrounding buildings, however, for its sloped roofs, large chimney, narrow windows, and decorative half-timbering. Developer Restoration St. Louis recently bought the property and set about revamping the interiors, so now all 32 guest rooms and suites merge historic charm with modern luxuries (think hardwood floors and stately wall coverings complemented by Bissinger’s chocolates, Jonathan Adler bath amenities, and plush robes).

Mornings here start with a complimentary breakfast of homemade pastries, farm-fresh eggs, and country bacon—a nice touch, as are the warm cookies at check-in and the evening cocktail reception, held Monday through Thursday. The charming courtyard is the perfect place to enjoy an afternoon break, while the Restaurant at Seven Gables is ideal for when you’re craving a cozy setting and upscale pub fare like chicken pot pie and filet mignon.

There certainly are other ways to while away a summer day in Greater Portland, but you’d be hard-pressed to find a better experience than island-hopping aboard a Casco Bay Lines ferry. Sure, you can simply ride out to an island for a look-about and return, or enjoy a sunrise, sunset, or moonlight cruise. But for a real immersion, consider the Mailboat Run. You’ll be among islanders, visitors, pets, and freight to-ing and fro-ing between Little Diamond, Great Diamond, Long, Cliff, and Chebeague islands. The 2½-to-3½-hour working cruise is offered twice daily year-round; bring your own picnic lunch on the morning run or snacks for the afternoon one.

Melbourne’s market culture is obviously very much alive and, in the case of Queen Victoria Market, has been since the 1870s.


Food stalls to try: Börek; Bratwurst Shop & Co.; American Doughnut Kitchen; Gozleme Turkish Café; Le Croissant des Halles; Pizza by Nature; La Cantina; Sushi Kissaten; Pide Bread Bakery; Spanish Donut Van.

This appeared in the May 2014 issue.

Finding a fun bar that’s popular with locals is almost a travel imperative: While hotel bars have their charms, local bars offer travelers a way to explore a destination through its people. This beach bar at the heart of Sandy Ground fits the bill. Mellow by day, the vibe picks up at night, with dancing out on the sand, occasional live music and DJs, plus famous full-moon celebrations. On Sunday afternoons, grab a fish taco and a beer and join the crowd watching the football or basketball game on the huge outdoor screen.

Throughout Mexico in the many colorful markets there are lots of interesting items for sale, from live animals and produce to clothing and all sorts of knickknacks. Food is also plentiful and varied. But nothing seems to have registered more with me than the women in the Oaxacan markets screaming “Chapulines! Chapulines!” A quick peek at the giant baskets they carry and you’ll readily notice that insects are on display. Grasshoppers to be exact. Chapulines are very popular in this region and locals buy them by the bagful and munch on them as afternoon snacks. They are only collected at certain times of the year, and after a thorough cleaning and washing, they are toasted with garlic, lime juice, chili and salt. Skeptical as I was, I just had to see what all the fuss was about. So, I bought a small bagful. I reached in, grabbed one and got completely grossed out. Antennae, eyes, wings - everything was still visible. I took a tiny nibble on a wing. Not bad tasting really, but I just didn’t have the stomach to bite through to the center of the critter. I gave the rest of the bag away to a gentleman who was more than thrilled with my offer.

Anyone who has been to Brazil knows that the country has fantastic open-air markets, known as feiras in Portuguese. They often feature a combination of handicrafts, antiques, live music, dancing, and street food. The market on Saturdays at Praça Benedito Calixto in São Paulo is no exception, but this one is almost unknown to tourists. Older Paulistanos (as Sao Paulo residents are called) sell beautiful antiques that reflect the city’s cultural ties to Europe. Artisans sell colorful woven clothing, handmade leather shoes, jewelry made from açaí seeds, baskets and mobiles made from recycled magazines, and much more. In the center of the market is a square of food and drink vendors, selling food from Northeastern Brazil, dried fruits, coconut water, and other typical Brazilian street food. In the early afternoon, live chorinho music begins and the square soon fills with people dancing. This outdoor market is much more than a place for people to shop—it’s a place for people to relax and have fun. The market runs every Saturday 9:00 a.m.-7:00 p.m. The streets surrounding the market have many good restaurants, and the neighboring street of Teodoro Sampaio is known for its shops selling traditional Brazilian musical instruments. There are parking garages nearby; the market can also be reached by bus or by subway (Clinicas station).

If you like tea, then you must make a pilgrimage to Mariage Fréres, which has been open since 1854. They sell the most amazing teas (my favorites are Marco Polo and French Breakfast) along with teapots, cups, and tea paraphernalia. I recommend staying for a delicious pickmeup in their beautiful tearoom.

While the Monterey Plaza Hotel is centrally located on the end of Monterey’s main tourist drag, Cannery Road, each of its 290 rooms are a comfortable, quiet retreat from the world.

Occupying a 1927 firehouse that was functioning until 1980, this nine-room hotel from the team behind Los Feliz’s Hotel Covell heralds a new era for downtown L.A.’s warehouse-cum-arts-district. The neighborhood’s first boutique hotel, the Firehouse boasts several original details, from concrete floors and exposed wood-truss ceilings to pressed-tin panels and niches originally built to hold statuettes of the Virgin Mary that were intended to protect firefighters. Even the massive red doors that once ushered in fire engines are still intact, though today they open to a light-filled ground floor that houses a café, bar, and restaurant led by chef Ashley Abodeely and pastry chef Rose Lawrence. Also on the ground floor is a retail shop with a curated selection of wares created exclusively for the hotel by L.A.-based designers, including robes and striped tote bags by Clare V, bandanas and pillowcases by Block Shop, apparel by culinary brand Hedley & Bennett, serving pieces by ceramicist Robert Siegel, and furniture from ETC.etera.

Much like when it picked then-up-and-coming Shoreditch for its first London hotel, The Hoxton brand put its Paris outpost in the heart of the 2nd Arrondissement, a booming neighborhood thanks to the arrival of several millennial-focused start-ups and tech firms. The 18th-century building’s position is also convenient for exploring the city, as attractions like the Louvre, the Marais, and Notre-Dame are a pleasant walk away. Back at home base, you’ll find eclectic interiors courtesy of the Soho House team, with original architectural details like spiral staircases and mosaic floors sharing space with vibrant floral wallpaper, mid-century-inspired furnishings, and hand-picked contemporary artwork. It’s all in keeping with The Hoxton’s emphasis on shared social spaces, so along with the comfy lobby lounges, you’ll find guests hanging out in the Rivié brasserie (which serves all-day menus of French fare and comfort food classics in both indoor and courtyard areas) and the cozy Jacques Bar (where Moroccan influences show up in the décor and the drinks list).

Italian food is the specialty at this restaurant at the Four Seasons, with house-made pastas and braised meats from chef Antonio Minichiello stealing the show. Though the dining room is stylish, the best tables are outside on the veranda—as the name suggests. The brunch features fresh cold-pressed juice and, on weekends, a doughnut-making machine. There’s also an afternoon tea service from 3 p.m. to 4 p.m. that includes scones with cream and lemon curd and a variety of finger sandwiches. For those who prefer cocktails, the evening happy hour is surprisingly affordable.

“Founded in 1890, Wang is the best place to experience tea culture in Taiwan. It’s in an elegant building that has red wallpaper and an old-timey Oriental atmosphere. Order a green tea and enjoy the live performances of nanguan, a type of traditional Chinese music.” —KK Yeh

This appeared in the November/December 2017 issue.

Banff and Jasper are top of mind when it comes to Alberta‘s Great Outdoors. Travelers flock to Moraine Lake by the busload for postcard-perfect snaps and zip through the province’s northern parks on the trail of grizzlies, elk, and moose. Waterton Lakes manages to fly just far enough under the radar that it never feels crowded or bustling, even on a wild Canada Day long weekend, which makes it a wonderful alternative for the “been there, done that” crowd. For an iconic view of Waterton Village and Upper Waterton Lake, test your mettle against the Bear’s Hump, a mile-long trek that begins at the Waterton Visitor Resource Center. The trail opens to a grand rocky plateau atop what was once called Bear Mountain by the Blackfoot people. Begin your trek early in the morning or late in the afternoon to have the mountain to yourself, but be warned that the wind atop the Hump can be ferocious. Knock your hat off and dump you off the mountain ferocious. Still, the views of Waterton Valley and Mount Cleveland are worth the challenge. [Flash traveled to Alberta courtesy of Travel Alberta.]

As soon as the ferry pushes away from Kabataş ferry terminal on Istanbul‘s European side, you can feel the frenetic pace of the city slipping away. Sipping a coffee on the ship’s bow, the beautiful scenery and azure Bosphorus waters enchant as the boat makes stops on the Asian side, then on to each of the five Prince Islands (Adalar), just around an hour’s journey away from the city. Büyükada is the largest of the five islands. With no cars on this idyllic and relaxed isle, horse-drawn carriage and bicycles remain the main modes of transportation -- both of which can be hired at the ferry terminal upon arrival. An afternoon’s cycle can cover the whole island, and caters to stopping at the stunning scenic bluffs, hidden beaches, and clifftop cafes along the route at your own pace. In town, mansions boast swaths of bougainvillea and visitors dine al fresco at restaurants serving fresh seafood. Tasty ice cream can be bought near the ferry for the journey home. Go on a weekday to miss the weekending Istanbul crowd, to whom the island’s charm is no secret.

I stumbled along this place on a recent trip completely by accident. We’d been driving aimlessly for a while west of Kardemena looking for the perfect quiet beach to take in the late afternoon when I spied a few umbrellas through the trees between the road and the shore. I was pretty much equidistant between town and some of the huge resorts further to the west, so I figured I’d found my spot! I pulled off the road, unpacked all my stuff, marched through the trees to the beach and was met with a decent little beach, a small bar, those umbrellas I’d spied from the road and a small collection of older couples... Completely nude older couples. I wasn’t expecting this, but hey, I had no interest in spinning on my heal and re-packing up the car, so I assumed the proper attire (none), spread a towel out on a beach chair and settled in. I’m a go-with-the-flow kind of guy, after all. The beach itself is a mix of sand, pebbles and some larger rocks. The water is immaculately clear. And, as it turns out, the whole spot is watched over by one person Mandy — perhaps the nicest British lady on Kos who greets beach goers with an inviting smile and incredibly pleasant accent. I may not have been looking to take it all off, but knocking back a few Mythos beers with Mandy made for a pleasant end to the day.