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While the name translates to the rather simple “dining room”, the experience at Esszimmer is anything but. Since 2004 it has grown to become synonymous with fine cuisine in Salzburg and has been awarded three toques by Gault & Millau as well as one Michelin star. The interior design is modern yet cozy, with a fireplace, warm lighting, and a glass floor providing a glimpse into a water channel from the Middle Ages. Chef Andreas Kaiblinger’s creative plates are visually delightful and scrumptious with bold yet recognizable flavors. Several tasting menus are offered with primarily Austrian and French influences (including excellent vegetarian options), though individual items can be ordered as well.

Hop on the free ferry from the city’s Central Station for the 15-minute ride to the NDSM wharf, an old shipyard that’s transformed into a hipster haven with restaurants, bars, and artists’ studios. The waterfront “beach bar” Pllek is a popular spot here; built out of old shipping containers, the soaring, dual-level space has an industrial vibe, with corrugated-metal walls warmed by bright artwork, an indoor fireplace, and huge windows looking out over the IJ River. But it’s the man-made beach that draws crowds in warm weather, with comfy beanbags and loungers where you can while away the afternoon. There’s a nice selection of beer and wine; the food is simple but surprisingly good, and it’s crafted with fresh, organic ingredients. Pllek also hosts live-music events, DJs, dance parties, films, and morning yoga classes.

There’s no cost attached to one of Istanbul’s most distinctive photo ops, and the only lines are from fishing poles. Cross the historic Golden Horn via the Galata Bridge, where fishermen from every walk of life jostle for space, and tourist restaurants line the lower level (stop in for a drink if you’d like, but the food tends to be overpriced and mediocre). Galata Bridge isn’t beloved for its architecture (fun fact: It is supposedly the bridge for which the card game is named), but rather its views: Topkapı Palace and several domes and minarets in the Old City on one side, and the Galata Tower on the other.

The past is present at Quinta Real, a colonial-style hacienda set in a residential neighborhood 20 minutes from downtown Guadalajara. In keeping with history, the property features soaring stucco ceilings, stone archways covered in crawling ivy, and wrought-iron balconies overlooking manicured gardens and cobblestone walkways. The story is the same inside, where 76 spacious suites are decorated with ornate Corinthian columns, well-curated antiques, and a palette of soothing ochres and greens. Like other hotels in the area, the Quinta Real has a swimming pool, butler and valet services, and a business center, but it’s the international dishes at Tierra Mia restaurant that are truly worthy of the hotel’s five-star rating.

Envisioned by Hong Kong-based architect Andre Fu, the Upper House was designed to give guests the experience of staying in a luxury residence within easy reach of the design stores, markets, and nightlife of the Wan Chai neighborhood. Every detail here has been carefully considered, from the environmentally friendly paint to the arrangement of the hotel’s 400-plus works of original art. As they climb the levels of the hotel, guests encounter sculptures with names like Silence, and Rise, and Lifted, which take them on an upward journey that ends at the 49th-floor Sky Bridge—a candle-lined walkway overlooking the atrium that’s lit by a James Turrell–esque skylight.

All the rooms, suites, and penthouses offer a choice between two color schemes: “bamboo,” with ash flooring, bamboo timber, and lilac upholstery, or “celadon,” furnished in green tea upholstery, limed oak flooring, and creme oak timber. Particular attention was given to the bathrooms. Each is nearly 300 square feet and outfitted with concealed televisions and sound systems as well as open-plan rain showers. Some have soaking tubs carved from Turkish limestone, from which guests can take in views of Victoria Harbour or the surrounding mountains. In contrast to many Hong Kong hotels, the Upper House’s restaurant, Café Gray Deluxe, emphasizes simple dishes prepared from the best local and organic produce. The result is high quality but not pretentious, much like the hotel itself.

John Gaw Meem is considered one of New Mexico’s most influential architects—and that fact alone makes this ranch, designed in 1932 by the so-called Father of Santa Fe style, worth a visit. But Meem isn’t the only big name associated with the property: Landscape architect Rose Greeley designed the gardens and artist Peter Hurd painted a mural on the property. The hotel is set on 25 acres of lavender fields, first planted in 1999 and now used for a line of in-house spa products. There are organic gardens, too, which provide the kitchen with Chimayo chilies, casaba melons, big cheese squash, and other seasonal produce. The look here tends toward clean lines, neutral hues, and quiet elegance over fussiness, though the historic rooms tend to have a bit more New Mexico flair—kiva fireplaces, exposed ceiling beams, local art—than the newer farm rooms. The latter are located in 1930s-style dairy buildings, carefully constructed to feel both of the era and of the place.

The tony suburb of Houghton, whose best-known resident was Nelson Mandela, is home to leafy lanes lined with stately estates. Not too far from the Mandela family manse is the Residence, a stylish boutique property that lives up to its name, evoking a private lair of a chic distant relative that guests are fortunate enough to visit for a spell.

The rooms are plush, with velvet headboards, sumptuous rugs, and glittering chandeliers, but the bathrooms are a sight to behold: the gleaming marble tiles and outdoor showers and tubs merit a special mention. Nods to the nautical can be found in the Boat Lounge, where mini sailboats and life preservers inspire the decor. There’s often a pianist tickling the ivories in the Piano Lounge, where guests can retire with a post-prandial cocktail.

The lines are long (expect to wait at least an hour) at this young barbecue joint tucked inside the Dallas Farmers’ Market—but the tender, perfectly smoked meats are worth the wait says Daniel Vaugh, barbecue editor of Texas Monthly. “They have incredible brisket and giant beef ribs,” he says. Watch for a brick-and-mortar outpost slated to open this spring—menu standbys like bacon-and-chile-flecked mac and the “trough” meat-sampler, pictured here, are sure to make an appearance.

With more than 100,000 items in its collection, the Deutsches Museum is one of the most important science and technology museums in the world. Even though only around a quarter of the collection is on display at any one time, the breadth is nonetheless mind-boggling, ranging from the Stone Age to the present and touching on everything from cellular biology to atomic physics. Indeed, the holdings are so massive—and still growing—that they’re divided between several venues, including a hangar at Schleißheim airfield and the Deutsches Museum in Bonn. Specific highlights in Munich include the first motorized aircraft built by the Wright brothers, the first motorcar made by Karl Benz, and a U1 submarine. Also worth checking out are interactive displays that detail glass-blowing and paper-making, and the live demonstrations and experiments that take place each day. A dedicated children’s area with hundreds of activities caters to younger visitors, but, kids or not, plan to spend at least half a day here—and be pleasant overwhelmed.

Facing the Arabian Sea and the Gateway of India monument, the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel blends Moorish, Florentine, and Indian architecture. The historic palace wing reopened in 2010 with 243 new rooms and 42 suites, including one that houses the sitar on which legendary Indian musician Ravi Shankar composed his Concerto No. 1. George Harrison checked into the Taj in 1966 to take lessons from the maestro.

Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

An out-of-the-way bistro pretty much worth the flight to Italy on its own, Secondo Tradizione flips the traditional osteria on its capo. Experience paper tablecloths and chalkboard menus with gallery lighting, an exposed kitchen, and a Michelin star–worthy menu. The menu riffs off a yesteryear vibe, which is a tag team of classics (like carbonara and saltimbocca) and locavore products via haute cuisine recipes. The Dal Banco (counter) showcases specialty cured meats and cheeses, while Dalla Cucina listings are the daily creations of chefs Piero Drago and Jacopo Ricci.

Who wouldn’t trade an ugly elevated highway for a ribbon of new parkland? Boston’s famous Big Dig dismantled the eyesore John F. Kennedy Expressway that long separated downtown from its waterfront and turned most of its former route into a linear park named in honor of JFK’s mother. The Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy Greenway snakes for a mile and a half from Chinatown to the North End, mostly parallel to Boston Harbor. It’s a pleasant alternative to walking the city’s busy streets to get around, and you can use the park’s free Wi-Fi to plan your visit. Along the way you’ll find seven decorative and interactive fountains; a carousel where lobsters, codfish, harbor seals, and other local animals take the place of horses; and a variety of food trucks for when you need to recharge with a taco, a grilled-cheese sandwich, or a cupcake. The Greenway’s visitor center for the Boston Harbor Islands National Recreation Area has information and ferry tickets.

Why we love it: A three-island sanctuary oozing luxury and exclusivity that’s surrounded by immaculate beaches. The Highlights:

• Spread across three islands, the resort is home to Ithaafushi Private Island, accessible only via yacht
• Terra, a dining destination set in bamboo pods hanging from trees, is just one of 11 restaurants and bars
• A water park, variety of water sports, and PADI dive center

The Review: Perched on three inter-connected islands a 30-minute boat ride away from Malé International Airport, this newly opened (July 2019) high-end resort marks a new pinnacle for Waldorf Astoria and Maldives luxury. 122 villas (all with private infinity pools) are spread across the three islands, with three of them set on the exclusive Ithaafushi Private Island. The private island includes a dedicated chef and personal concierge team, its own overwater spa and gym, five swimming pools, an entertainment center, and pristine beaches.

Not to worry if you’re on the other two islands: there’s plenty of luxury and plenty to keep you busy—or not—the beach and multiple pools are calling. Set aside time for the lavish spa, comprised of ten overwater or garden treatment villas while your kids spend time at the Waldorf Astoria Young Discovery Water Park. The whole family will enjoy the Ocean Pavilion, which hosts a range of activities like yoga and paddle-boarding; has a fully-equipped fitness center; and is home to a combined water sport and PADI dive center. The resort features 11 distinct dining destinations, each more interesting and extravagant than the last. From Terra and its bamboo pods to a grilling spot from Dave Pynt, the Michelin-starred chef behind Singapore’s Burnt Ends. There’s also a wine cellar carved into rocks, Middle Eastern spot Yasmeen, and Glow, which offers interactive garden-to-table dining using the bounty of the on-island garden.

Did you know that the world’s largest spring fed swimming pool is located in the high desert in West Texas? I’d heard of Balmorhea on a previous visit to Marfa, so when the weather got relentless this time, I drove north, in search of cold water to dive into.

Arriving at Balmorhea after an hours drive through the arid high desert felt like a mirage. It’s almost like you don’t quite trust your eyes. The pool is huge and the water a deep color of turquoise. It’s paradise, except for those pesky little black fish that nobody had warned me about. As soon as you stop swimming those little buggers come to nibble at you like a swarm of underwater mosquitoes. It’s funny, and trust me, it keeps you moving!

I only went to Balmorhea for the afternoon to cool off, but they do have overnight options there. Even if you’re only there for a few hours, bring some food–as the options to buy anything good are thin.

Open daily from 8 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. or sunset, whichever comes first
Entrance fees: adult: $7 daily, child 12 years and under: free

>>>Warmest thanks to the awesome team at El Cosmico for another unforgettable Trans Pecos Festival of Music and Love–an annual gathering of friends, music, art, camping, sandlot baseball and a night sky full of stars in Marfa, Texas. Love you guys.