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Milonga references a style of dance intrinsic to the Argentine tango and Afro-influenced in style, known to be less formal and more rustic. This particular evening in Buenos Aires at La Catedral was serendipitous. I sat in awe watching couples dancing tango, spiralling by sexily, while I day dreamed to do as they did. The setting was dark, the atmosphere, artistic and the evening, late. After many bottles of wine and nearly dawn, we experienced a most organic moment of sound and song with the few remaining locals. They surprised us with acoustic guitar, drumming and singing that had us in a trance. It was a beautiful moment of unspoken camaraderie translated rhythmically. Come to find out, this is a typical evening at La Catedral, locals mastering the dance of love to a live band. Lessons are offered as well.

La Recoleta Cemetery is one of the most visited cemeteries in Latin America, mainly because Evita Peron is buried there, among other notable figures. The cemetery is built around a convent and a church, Our Lady of Pilar (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Pilar), that was built in 1732. The order was disbanded in 1822, and the garden of the convent was converted into the first public cemetery in Buenos Aires. Occupied by mostly wealthy families of Buenos Aires. Highly recommended to have a guided map to find some famous graves.

The historic El Porteño building, a onetime grain warehouse made of imported Manchester bricks, was slated for demolition in 1998 before a local cultural preservation group stepped in. Soon after, Argentine fashion designer Alan Faena picked it up and hired designer Philippe Starck to turn the old mill into his outlandish dream of a hotel, the Faena Hotel. It opened in 2004 on the now-gentrifying Puerto Madero waterfront, becoming an anchor for future developments—apartment buildings, international hotel brands, and ritzy restaurants. The Faena dares to be different in every aspect. Guests are introduced to the hotel creators’ own ideas of luxury, where black marble meets claw-foot tubs and red velvet meets white leather. The property has become something of a social center and playground for the wealthy, attracting locals to the funky cabaret with nightly tango performances, now almost legendary, or to the antique book–lined lounge and 1920s throwback decor. Multiple restaurants and a pool bar, fronting one of the largest pools in the city, help maintain a steady stream of activity.

It’s small compared to other capitals, but Panama City’s historical role as a port and part of a canal that brought together people, commodities, and customs from every corner of the planet endows it with a cosmopolitan air. Come visit a tiny giant.

The picturesque beaches along Aruba’s west coast lend the island an air of escapism unmatched in the Caribbean. Amid the white sands and sparkling waters, there are a wide range of accommodations, from supersize resorts to more boutique offerings.

Teatro Colón is considered one of the most beautiful theaters in the world. Though the theater was, to the great disappointment of many travelers, closed for years while undergoing major renovations, the Colón has now reopened and is playing host to a busy schedule of opera, ballet, and symphony. If you can’t get tickets for this legendary theater, try another elegant venue like Teatro Nacional Cervantes or Teatro San Martin. Check out Ciudad Cultural Konex if you’d rather see an edgier contemporary performance of modern dance or theater, or head to La Trastienda to hear live music by some of Argentina’s best young artists.

With a smart and simple chalkboard menu of cheese plates, salads, sandwiches made with homemade bread, good coffee, and Argentinian wines by the glass, Pain et Vin is a lovely venue for lunch or an afternoon glass of Malbec rosado. The Palermo Soho eatery doubles as a tasting space and shop: look for Friday evening events open to the public, or stop by to choose from the excellent selection of boutique wines to take on a picnic to the park.

Bonafide is a classic Argentine café whose roots reach back to 1917 in Buenos Aires. The name stands for “good faith” to reflect his family’s history in the coffee business and a symbol of trust for his clients. They also sell “Bocaditos” (sweet bites) and “Nugaton” (wafers filled with nougat cream), which have become classic Argentine chocolate snacks. Peatonal Sarmiento 102 - Mendoza. Tel: +54 261 423-7915

More than a local institution dating back to the 1850s, the Café Tortoni ranks among the world’s most famous salons. As vintage photos here show, the columned establishment has hosted more literary figures than you can count. Play billiards while you enjoy a latte, or order from the full restaurant menu.

So you didn’t have time on this trip to visit Salta, Jujuy, or other breathtakingly gorgeous destinations in Argentina’s north - put it on your list for next time. At least you can go home with some beautiful handcrafted objects produced in the region’s indigenous communities - and Fundación Silataj, a non-profit fair-trade organization, is the best place to do some responsible shopping. Items at Silataj are divided into four categories: accessories, art, home and textile. Browse through the online catalogue for an overview, or just poke around the store in person. There’s an affiliated shop downtown that’s more convenient for some travelers - Arte de Pueblos (www.artedepueblos.org.ar).

In search of a flightless, sex-crazed, and rarely seen parrot in a land once ruled by birds.

It’s slightly unnerving when you’re seated too close to the next table in a jam-packed parrilla (steakhouse), the clatter of dishes and voices and the televised futbol game in the background, and your stoic waiter, a giant of a man in a stained white apron, approaches your table. As you tell him what you’d like to eat - steak, naturally, and papas fritas (french fries) and a pinguino (penguin-shaped pitcher) of the house Malbec, you notice that he’s not writing anything down - in fact, he’s not looking at you at all. He saunters off and you wonder if your dinner will ever arrive. A few minutes later, he’s back, plonking a basket of bread on the table, splashing the wine on the paper tablecloth as he pours your drink. And then, course by course, all the dishes you ask for arrive, simply presented on white plates, and the roar of the game and the conversation around you rises to a pitch.


This is Desnivel, a bare-bones San Telmo parrilla that’s nearly turned into a caricature of itself. Some days you’ll find more tourists than Argentinians. Other days, it’s a bunch of local guys sitting around digging into the restaurant’s famous deep-fried beef empanadas. Love it or hate it, it’s a Buenos Aires icon.

On every Thursday for the past 40 years, women have walked a picket line around Buenos Aires’s most politically significant plaza. They call themselves Las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo, and each mother present has lost a son or a daughter, presumably “disappeared” at the hands of the nation’s 1970s-era military dictatorships. Some days only a half-dozen mothers lead the march; though increasingly elderly, they are still determined to carry on the fight against all forms of oppression. You’d expect it to be a depressing affair, but in fact it’s quite moving to see the crowd of 50 or more supporters march beside the original mothers as they chant, demanding accountability for one of Latin America’s most shameful and violent historical episodes.

The hot-right-now Fierro Hotel bills itself as the ‘Hotel for the Gourmand,’ and it’s no wonder - the boutique hotel is famous on the foodie scene for hosting special events like ‘One Table,’ the biweekly TFIF Happy Hour brings in the talent of celebrity bartender Fede Cuco, and - drum roll, please - resident chef Hernán Gipponi and his restaurant were recently recognized at the Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards 2013. To see what Gipponi - who honed his craft at Michelin-starred restaurants in Spain - can do, come for the nine-course modern Argentinian tasting menu, or splurge on his classy weekend brunch.

Tucked away on the second floor of a courtyard building in the residential Recoleta neighborhood, the shoe store Comme Il Faut is a magnet for tango dancers. Customers provide their shoe sizes to cheerful saleswomen, and stacks of shoeboxes—in every color and heel height—emerge from the back.