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D.H. Lawrence detested it. Langston Hughes loved it. It’s probably safe to say that no one who has seen bullfighting comes away ambivalent about it. If you can stomach the blood and the inevitable death of the bull (and, perhaps, the injury of the matador), then a Sunday afternoon at Plaza México, the largest bullring in the world, is one place to experience a centuries-old tradition. The Spanish brought bullfighting to Mexico when they arrived in the New World, and though the sport has become increasingly controversial in recent years (it’s even been banned entirely in the Mexican states of Coahuila, Guerrero, and Sonora, and its prohibition has been discussed–but not yet passed– in Mexico City), it’s one of the few places where such formality, pageantry, skill, and–yes, some would say– savagery can be witnessed for the price of a few pesos.

Though it was built in 1968, Hotel de Mendoza reflects its 16th-century surroundings. Nestled in the heart of Guadalajara’s centro historico, the hotel features 104 simple yet elegant rooms, with hand-carved, colonial-style furnishings (some hand-painted by Jalisco artist Alejandro Rangel Hidalgo) and views of Teatro Degollado. Original arches salvaged from nearby Templo Santa María de Gracia’s former convent create architectural contrast in the courtyard pool area, a sunny space lined with terra cotta tiles and cascading greenery. Similarly atmospheric is the on-site restaurant, La Forja, where guests enjoy global cuisine in an elegant dining room decorated with cane-backed chairs and blue-and-white talavera pottery.

The New Mexico Capitol Art Collection is a surprising find: an extensive art collection focusing on nearly 600 New Mexican and Southwestern artists, housed in the State Capitol Complex. This awesome assemblage incorporates paintings, photography, mixed media, textiles and handcrafted furniture. And, it’s free to the public.

Located across from Chapultepec Park in the upscale Polanco neighborhood, this 42-story hotel is one of the toniest addresses in Mexico City, boasting not one but three presidential suites that routinely host celebrities and heads of state alike—including President Barack Obama. All 700 guestrooms were refurbished in 2015 so even standard rooms boast sleek, modern appointments, while suites offer varying levels of space and luxurious amenities. Whichever you choose, be sure to ask for a room on the highest possible floor to better enjoy the jaw-dropping views over the park, skyline, and mountains beyond.

The hotel’s main restaurant, Au Pied du Cochon, is open 24 hours a day, just like the Parisian bistro from which it takes its name. Other on-site dining options include the Palm Steakhouse, a hip Mexican restaurant, and an Italian eatery with an outdoor terrace. Guests are also within walking distance of some of Polanco’s trendiest restaurants. When it comes time to unwind, there’s an intimate, Nordic-inspired spa on the hotel’s 10th floor.

Baja California Sur is less saturated than other Mexican seasides, but some of the beaches, like Balandra, attract a crowd. For a bit of Baha California Sur quiet, take a boat ride or a thirty-minute hike (no flip-flops, please) to Playa La Escondida. The beach is blanketed with white sand, surrounded by mountains, and bumps up against clear blue waters. Remember to bring all food, clothing, and other goodies you might need for your day as there are no shops or services.

As its name suggests, gin is the spirit of choice at this cocktail bar, which is inspired in every way by all things “across the pond.” Mixologists and servers in button-down Oxford shirts prepare and deliver—what else?—gin and tonics in a setting that’s all pinstripes and British kitsch. Live music rounds out the scene; check the bar’s Facebook page for the current lineup.

If you’re shopping for a foodie friend or you want to take some of the flavors of Mexico home with you, Bottega Culinaria is a one-stop-shop for food-related souvenirs. Here, you’ll find sal de gusano (sea salt mixed with ground worms from the Mexican agave) and Ancho Reyes, a chile ancho liqueur that’s perfect for cocktails. There’s also Mexican vanilla, chocolate studded with chiles, and other unexpected treats.

They intended it as their gift to Mexico, and what a gift it is. Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo, two of the most famous artists of the 20th century, worked with renowned Mexican architect Juan O’Gorman to create Museo Anahuacalli, a temple-like structure that houses the 50,000+ pre-Hispanic objects Rivera collected during his lifetime. The museum, whose design was also influenced by Frank Lloyd Wright and his notions about the role of the physical environmental in the conceptualization and construction of buildings, also showcases hundreds of pieces of artisan and craft works representative of Mexico. Note that the museum is not open on Monday or Tuesday.

Mexico City’s Centro Histórico has some fine bars, clubs, restaurants, and hotels where you can enjoy a copa or a cocktail, but if you’re looking for a side of good jazz to go along with your drink, then, the place is Zinco. Housed inside the vault of a former bank, Zinco feels old-school atmospheric and its small size keeps things intimate. Shows feature both Mexican (yes, there’s a thriving jazz scene in Mexico and international artists. Arrive early to ensure you snag one of the few tables and a waiter who will dedicate himself to refreshing your cocktails throughout the night.

Straddling Cancun’s sandy beach in the heart of the Hotel Zone, the CasaMagna Marriott Cancun Resort features 450 re-modeled rooms and suites with balconies with ocean views. The AAA Four Diamond-award winner houses a wide selection of restaurants and bars, offering Argentine, Japanese, Southwestern, Italian or Thai cuisine. La Isla-Pool Bar serves poolside snacks and drinks in a family setting, while Bahia dishes up fresh seafood on the beach. Las Ventanas Lobby Bar is the place to meet for drinks and appetizers and enjoy nightly entertainment, while Las Ventanas Gift and Coffee shop offers “grab and go” and late night snacks. A full-service fitness center, pool and onsite tennis and water sports complete the recreational package. The Marriott Kid’s Club offers entertainment for the younger guests. High speed Wi-Fi is available in rooms and public areas throughout the resort.

My guide, Paco, a.k.a. Francisco de Santiago, 46, is a full time tour guide, and also a former child chess champion and bullfighter (“that was many kilos ago”), orders a flight of artisanal mezcal samples at our first mezcalería of the evening, and instructs me on the proper way to taste the purest of agave drinks. “You spread the mescal on top of your hand, like this, then wait for the alcohol to evaporate, then smell it for citric, floral, or smoky tones.” After smelling, a sip, then another for good measure, you take a bite of orange slice dipped in crushed maguey worms and sea salt. After that, we dive into the city’s tacos and street food, beginning our night with two cups of esquite—boiled corn kernels mixed with lime, chili pepper, and mayonnaise, which we bought from a father-son team who have been working the same street corner for 22 years. I booked my 4-hour “late-night taco and mezcal tour” with Eat Mexico Culinary Tours. Francisco de Santiago of Mexico also runs Every Angle Tours ([email protected], tel. 55-2086-0851, $85–145 per person, depending on tour, includes food, beverage, transport, guide); all kinds of specialty culinary tours, or an all-day Frida Kahlo tour of the city.)

If you’ve never eaten a taco in Mexico, then perhaps you think, “Well, a taco is a taco is a taco.” Not so, as you’ll find out if you swing by Tacos Joven for an order of their tacos en canasta (“tacos in a basket”). Since 1971, this fast-food spot has been turning out what many folks believe are the best tacos in Mexico City. Though a bit more expensive than comparable spots with the same fare, these tacos are stuffed until chubby with either potatoes, beans, shredded beef, or chicharron (fried pork rinds), and their size is outmatched by their flavor. You have to stop by early, as business ends at 4:30 pm each day, and a bit earlier on Sundays.

Years ago when Mexico City’s southern neighborhoods were in fact small, independent cities, the quarter known as San Ángel Inn was a sylvan getaway for well-heeled urbanites. No longer an inn, the area’s namesake—a former Carmelite convent from the eighteenth century—persists as an iconic, country-club-style restaurant and lounge. Its venerable walls, gardens, and fountains call up colonial gentility and ward away the urban chaos just outside the door; strolling mariachis are the sole “disruption.” Sip what many believe is the city’s best margarita amid an impeccable, songbird-serenaded garden.

This used to be a hacienda, but it was turned into a restaurant almost 50 years ago. The food is phenomenal and the margaritas are famous—in fact, they’re my favorite thing on the menu. There is always a band or a pianist playing.

If you’ve had a tough time finding authentic souvenirs, you might find something suitable in an unlikely place: Cabo’s biggest shopping mall. Puerto Paraiso may be the last place you’d think about going while in Cabo, but it has several stores, including 100% Mexico Hecho a Mano and Mi Mexico Magico, that sell handcrafted and artisanal goods made in Mexico. Look for pottery, textiles, toys, leatherwork, and small-batch food products like organic chocolate and local honey.

Enjoy these stunning oceanview and beachside cabanas at The Westin Lagunamar Ocean Resort, a seaside resort in Cancun, Mexico. Enjoy the turquoise blue waters of the Caribbean, a sweet haven for the sun-seekers. A perfect place to soak under the sun, swim or people-watch. $400/night.