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A great relaxed wine bar with a wine happy hour which is extremely popular. There’s a nice wine selection which stretches beyond the bar’s namesake wine, a quirky interior atmosphere, and a very relaxed environment. This isn’t the type of wine bar you have to put a jacket on for, which makes it a perfect fit for Vesterbro and a huge hit among locals. This is the sister location to Malbeck Vinoteria, located in Norrebro. Photo: Malbeck Vinbar

Usually I take a train across the Øresund Bridge, an engineering marvel that connects Malmo, Sweden, to Copenhagen, Denmark. Unfortunately, the train travels below the vehicle deck, which means you can’t actually see the bridge. And this is a bridge worth seeing. The crossing itself is about 10 miles. Coming from the Swedish side, the first five miles of your trip is over a bridge that floats 187 feet above the water before briefly landing on an island and then diving into a tunnel beneath the sea. The girder and cable-stayed bridge section has two pairs of free-standing cable-support towers that seem to grow in height as you approach . . . until they disappear into the sky. Even on a road that is more than 200 feet above the surface of the water, the tops of those towers are still almost another 400 feet above. Rent a car and take a trip across (either Copenhagen or Malmo makes a good day trip), but be prepared to pay a hefty fee for the privilege. The toll is roughly $60 U.S. each way. Øresund Bridge English-language web page has current toll information: http://uk.oresundsbron.com/page/1087

AOC takes a New Nordic–inspired elemental approach to food. Ingredients are sourced locally with a focus on maximizing the complete experience, which includes rich colors, presentation, smells, and flavor. The restaurant is small, with room for roughly 45 people and located in the cellar of a 17th-century building. The design is simple and clean, and it avoids anything that might distract from the food. The restaurant has been awarded a Michelin star. Photo: cyclonebill (flickr)

Sitting in Copenhagen’s prettiest café, you could almost think you’re on the Left Bank in Paris. However, the menu has many delicious Nordic dishes, from Icelandic yogurt with honey to dense Danish rye bread and oatmeal with lots of healthy extras. The only problem with Granola is that, because it’s so charming and inviting, it’s always packed. Try to avoid the weekend crush by coming midweek instead.

Originally built as luxury apartments near the Tivoli Gardens and City Hall, in central Copenhagen, the historic building now housing Hotel Alexandra has been a hotel since early 1890. After World War II, when it became the Hotel Alexandra, each of the rooms was painstakingly reimagined using exclusively Danish mid-century modern design, from the colors and fabrics to the furniture and art. Stepping into the lobby feels like stepping back in time to the Copenhagen of the 1950s and ‘60s, when the designers whose work fills the hotel were in the prime of their careers. Taking this dedication to Danish design a step further, each of the 59 rooms and suites has been decorated with vintage furniture and wallpaper from the ‘50s and ‘60s including works from some of the most famous Danish designers of the era: Finn Juhl, Verner Panton, Hans J. Wegner, Nanna Ditzel, or Arne Jacobsen.

But the hotel doesn’t live only in the past. Its dedication to environmental responsibility is evident throughout, and nowhere more so than in its environmental certification from Green Key, a laudable feat even in eco-conscious Denmark.

Situated in the suburbs just outside Copenhagen, Charlottenlund Beach Park is a small oasis in one of Denmark’s wealthiest areas. The old fortress retains several naval artillery batteries in a space that has been converted to a park and overlooks a small, but beautiful, Danish beach. Just behind the park you can head into the park itself, which is a richly forested area that is absolutely stunning in fall. Head to the nearby Charlottenlund Palace, built by Christian the VI in 1733, as part of your stroll through the park. There’s also a lovely cafe down by the beach which is open to visitors and offers a view over the water.

Great design is everywhere you look in Denmark—in shops, in homes, in public spaces—and the creativity of its people has long been a source of national pride. This museum, located just around the corner from Amalienborg, was founded in 1890, many decades before midcentury modern became an international sensation. It looks at the history of Danish design over the centuries, taking in everything from furniture to fashion to textiles.

I’d like to believe that had my public library been as stunning as the Black Diamond in Copenhagen, I would have spent more time studying at the library and less time doing whatever one does when one is supposed to be doing their reading. But the reality is that I probably would have spent most of the time staring out at the water and at the handsome people who wander through its naturally lit halls. The Black Diamond is the newer annex to The Danish Royal Library. It gets its name from the black granite, tinted windows and trapezoidal design (isosceles I think; perhaps I would be more sure had I worked harder on that geometry homework). When you turn the corner, it peers out like a large warship: dark, massive, and slightly foreboding. But the people and bicycles scattered about near the library’s entrance bely the need for concern. At the library’s entrance there is a cafe perfect for you to steady yourself with coffee, pastries, and more people watching. The library holds an art exhibit, concerts, The National Museum of Photography, The Museum of Danish Cartoon Art, as well as its own collection. But the pièce de résistance is the atrium that overlooks the harbor. Take the escalator up a few floors and turn and seize the view. But don’t gasp too loudly: there are people probably trying to do their geometry homework.

Magasin Du Nord is one of Denmark’s most famous shopping locations. This sprawling department store has a rich history and sits right on Kongens Nyrtov in the heart of the city. While the shopping center is famous for the plethora of items it sells, few visitors realize that there is actually a food court located on the top floor which serves a mixture of reasonably priced Danish specialties. If you’re looking for budget-friendly traditional Danish food in the heart of the city center, Magasin’s food court is an absolute must. The windows also provide an interesting view out and across Kongens Nytorv. Photo: Daderot, Wikipedia

In 1971, squatters moved into the barracks on an abandoned military base and established Freetown Christiania, an autonomous district in the middle of the city. Later, many dwellers built their own homes on the 86-acre property. Although the Danish Supreme Court ruled this year that the state owns the land, the area’s nearly 1,000 residents have yet to be evicted. Today, visitors can bike along tree-lined paths and check out the handmade structures before they disappear. christiania.org. This appeared in the July/August 2011 issue.

If you’re visiting Copenhagen, don’t miss a visit to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. It’s an easy 1/2 hour train ride from the city followed by about a 10 minute walk. Everything about our visit was excellent but a highlight is spending time in the sculpture garden which overlooks the Sound (and you can see the coast of Sweden in the distance). This is a great outing with kids. The children’s wing does a fantastic job of creating interesting ways for the kids to plug into modern art and the museum. On our visit there was a sculpture garden detective kit where kids had to seek out certain sculptures and examine different aspects and make some discoveries. Our kids loved it and it kept them engaged -- and it allowed me to leave them with my husband while I viewed the galleries in peace. There is also a great winding slide near the children’s wing that they spent a lot of time on. At the end of the day we got a bite to eat and and a glass of wine (for the adults) on the terrace overlooking the Calder sculpture garden and the Sound. Don’t miss the gift shop with lots of great modern design items to tempt you.

Danish tobacco dominates the pipe tobacco scene and can be found in shops all over the world. As part of this tradition, Denmark also has a number of extremely skilled pipe artisans who craft handmade Danish pipes. The Danish Pipe Shop is staffed by incredibly friendly folks and has a team of knowledgeable staff eager to discuss the craft of pipe smoking, how pipes differ, and which tobacco they recommend. Prices range from cheap budget pipes (less than US$40) to high-end pipes costing hundreds of dollars. Even if you’re not a smoker, with its walls lined with widely varied pipes it is a great place to pop into for a look around.

Building on the success of AOC, the minds behind one of Copenhagen‘s only 2-star Michelin Restaurants have opened a second restaurant. Søren Selin, co-owner and chef de cuisine at AOC, has overall responsibility for the menus while the resident chef at no. 2 is Nikolaj Køster. Despite being the younger sibling to AOC, Restaurant No. 2 is far from just a clone. It has its own special areas of focus and specialization In their own words at No. 2 you’ll find, “Here you will find the same uncompromising approach to raw ingredients, the same combination of flavours praised by the reviewers and a wine list composed with the same attention to detail as the one that has won AOC several awards. All in a more relaxed and laid-back ambiance.”

Den Blå Planet—the Blue Planet—is one of Europe’s biggest aquariums. It’s organized into three main zones—northern lakes and seas, the oceans, and tropical rivers and lakes—so you can explore typical Scandinavian habitats, or view sea otters, herring, and crayfish, or keep the kids entertained by tracking down more exotic creatures such as piranhas, electric eels, and poison frogs. The Danes take a matter-of-fact approach to their wildlife and often do workshops in which visitors are invited to watch an animal being dissected. Located close to Copenhagen Airport, the aquarium is easily reached by public transportation.

I absolutely love the interior courtyard of Christiansborg Palace. It is the type of place that seems straight out of a Disney fairy tale. Stand in the courtyard and close your eyes, imagining carriages, lanterns, and a steady stream of affluent Danes attending a grand ball—it’s a magical place. Started in 1733, the palace was completed in its present form in 1928. Over the years various stages were added and expanded in response to fire damage, periods of prosperity, and the latest design trends. The Palace currently serves as the seat of the Danish Parliament, the Prime Minister’s Office, the Supreme Court, The Royal Reception Rooms, and the Royal Stables which are the reason that the middle of the inner courtyard is a large dirt space (still used as part of the Royal Stables). You can access the ruins from the previous castle through the Christiansborg Palace museum.