Search results for

The Castelo de São Jorge, is one of the Alfama neighborhood’s most historically significant monuments. Plan a visit late in the afternoon so that you can explore every nook and cranny and learn about the castle’s abundant history. Stay for golden hour so that you can capture the light as it dances on the castle walls, and later to watch the sunset dip below the horizon.

The Pestana Hotel Group has a knack for turning historical properties into luxe hotels; the Pousada de Lisboa is no exception. Situated on Lisbon’s grandest square, the Praça do Comércio, the 90-room property inhabits the elegant former home of the Ministry of Internal Administration. Furnishings combine clean, modern lines with ornate wall moulding and a neutral color scheme dominated by pale greens and whites. Choose one of the mezzanine rooms for views of São Jorge Castle; the high-ceilinged Suite Praça do Comércio offers sweeping vistas of the square and River Tagus from two large windows. The hotel’s RIB Beef & Wine restaurant caters to the expense account crowd, specializing in premium cuts of meat aged for 14, 28, or 60 days and served with a regional touch: Lodosa piquillo peppers. There’s also an indoor pool lined with loungers, and a spa offering a full range of treatments, including a body scrub inspired by the scents of Madeira and the Algarve.

After Carcassonne in southwest France, Visby lays claim to the most important and best-preserved medieval city walls in all of Europe. The town’s citizens began building the original six-meter-high (20-foot) fortified walls in the 13th century, and they eventually grew to over 11 meters (36 feet). Today, the wall still stretches for 3.4 kilometers (2.1 miles). Walk in its shadow and explore the 36 intact medieval towers as well as numerous gateways. The North Gate offers the most impressive view of the wall, providing a sense of its enormous scale. St. Mary’s Cathedral, a few blocks inland, also dates to the 13th century.

Hagios Demetrios is known as the largest church in all of Greece, and while this interior doesn’t look as large as other European churches, the entire building and grounds are a true showing of historic periods coming and overlapping one another. You’ll find ancient ruins with Christian worship, and many relics and antiquities to see.

When hotelier Sean MacPherson opened the Ludlow he totally nailed the unique spirit of Manhattan’s Lower East Side. The 175-room hotel is the perfect mix of gritty and stylish, cool and calm. Rooms are done up in that signature MacPherson style with unique artisan touches including handmade silk rugs, artisan—crafted Moroccan pendant lamps and Indo-Portuguese-style beds. The “and” factor amenities include bathrobes from cult Paris fashion label Maison Martin Margiela and a Rockstar suite with a 1,100-foot terrace with Williamsburg Bridge views. The lobby is always abuzz, no matter what the hour and features a rotating selection of art curated by Vito Schnable as well as an outdoor “secret” garden that’s perfect for hiding away with your laptop or a good book. Breakfast is included for guests and the warm pastry basket should not be missed. Perhaps the highlight of any stay is the fact you’re right above Dirty French, one of NYC’s buzziest restaurants. Being an elevator ride away from the complimentary herb-seasoned flatbread is reason alone to book a stay.

The Royal Hirschgarten, – normally just referred to as the Hirschgarten (Deer Garden) is Europe’s largest beer garden, with seating for an incredible 8000 people! Its’ original purpose was to serve as hunting grounds for Munich‘s nobility. Part of the history is still retained today, with deer in a large enclosure that guests can observe over a choice of Augustiner, Kaltenberger Brewery beers with their King Ludwig brands or a beer from the Tegernsee Ducal Breweries.

Spanning a massive 129,166 square feet, the Pinakothek der Moderne is really four different museums: the Sammlung Moderne Kunst, the Design Museum, the State Graphic Collection, and the Architekturmuseum. As such, it’s one of Europe’s biggest institutions for modern and contemporary art, design, and architecture, offering a sweeping overview of 20th- and 21st-century culture, from avant-garde sculpture to digital installations. Notable for its 82-foot glass dome, the building is bright and airy, with plenty of room for walking around and experiencing all that’s on display. Tour the permanent collections on the upper floors, then head down to the ground floor to see the graphic, architectural, and temporary exhibitions.

Built between 1840 and 1845 by Prince Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, an extremely influential royal family in Europe, the Palais Coburg is a bright and spacious bit of luxury. Opened in 2003 after extensive restoration, the palais has suites (and only suites) that are clean and classy, sometimes even grandiose with antique furniture and vibrantly lit chandeliers. Many suites are named in honor of important members of the family such as Queen Victoria and Albert of England, and King Leopold I of Belgium, so guests will get a lesson in the history of Europe’s intermarried royal families.

Outside is a quiet garden with a water basin, shade trees, and magnolias. The outdoor café provides sanctuary from the city and is a great place to enjoy breakfast. In addition to two marvelous restaurants, Palais Coburg has an excuisite wine cellar with some 60,000 from four different centuries.

If you’re searching for the best gourmet offerings from Europe’s forests and fields, don’t miss the Champigros shop near Place Saint Catherine, in Brussels. The shop’s name comes from a combination of the French words “champignons grossiste,” or mushroom wholesaler. If you are a friend of the fungus, this is your shop. Step inside to discover the best truffles, morelles, girolles, chanterelles and more. Even if you aren’t a mushroom fanatic, there are still foodie delights to tempt you. Champigros also sells beautiful fresh produce and delicatessen treats that are easier to pack in your suitcase than a kilo of Cêpes. The shop is fantastic year round but it is particularly wonderful in autumn when the majority of the wild forest mushrooms are in their peak season.

Driving down an old dusty dirt road near Vila Verde da Raia in the area of Tras-os-Montes in northern Portugal I could imagine the area in the 19th or 20th century.The region probably hasn’t changed very much. I have seen pictures of this road from the 1940’s and I can’t see any difference. The road was not paved then and still isn’t. There are no modern homes or strip malls. I loved the natural vegetation and the peaceful vista. After following the road for about 10 minutes, it curved to the right.There were huge sycamore trees on both sides of the road leading into a tiny tucked away village that dates back about 1,000 years or so. The village of Vilarinho had a small plaza and a well. There was a post office on one side of the square, a beautifully restored church ( I wished that I could have seen the original), and many whitewashed granite and concrete homes. I saw that most homes featured modernized interiors. Past the church was the cemetery and large fields of many crops. At first, the residents were very curious but warmed up and became very friendly offering stories of the village, the farming, and tales of the relatives buried in the cemetery. As I walked the village and farm grounds they kept their eyes on this “stranger”, but they were very happy when I expressed such interest in their lives, homes, and their lovely village. A side trip is always a travel bonus and is one of the rewards of going off on your own to mix with the locals.

No wonder the lines to get inside St. Peter’s Basilica are some of the longest in Europe: It’s home to world-famous architecture (many consider the dome atop St. Peter’s Basilica to be Michelangelo’s greatest achievement), one of the best views of Rome, and, oh yeah, the pope. The best way to visit this legendary site is to stroll in just after its 7 a.m. opening, make your way up to the dome, and look outside: You’ll get the spectacular view practically to yourself. You can take a free English-language tour if you visit between October and May. And keep in mind, there’s a strict dress code.

A residential neighborhood with traditional commerce, and considered to be the most peaceful in Lisbon, this neighborhood brings together the best of life conditions to those who call this home. Taste a chocolate cake at the pastry shop which sells “The Best Chocolate Cake in the World” (Rua Coelho da Rocha, 99, next to the market). Then walk off your calories by visiting Santo Condestável’s Church, an emblematic monument which was designed by Vasco Regaleira, the architect of the “new churches.”

Decorated by Luís Pinto Coelho, who also decorated “A Paródia” and “Pavilhão Chinês,” this historic bar is 40 years old. With an art nouveau décor, the space is very cozy. A piano serves as a table, and shelves are full of sculptures and busts. Journalists and people with connections to politics used to frequent this place, but that was some years ago. Nowadays, it’s a good choice for a conversation with friends, without the chaos of bigger bars like the ones in Bairro Alto.

The Chapel of the Apparitions was constructed on the site of the apparitions of Our Lady at the Cova da Iria, Fatima. The original statue of Our Lady of Fatima rests on a stand ( which covers the holm oak tree on which she appeared to the children) just in front of the Chapel. Construction began in 1918. It was dynamited in 1922 and soon rebuilt. There are Masses and rosaries several times a day at the Chapel. The evening candlelight processions start at the little Chapel. You can get schedules at your hotel desk or at the information center at the sanctuary. I attended services at the Chapel several times during my pilgrimage. I felt awed and I couldn’t keep away from this important religious site.

To get to know the neighborhood and its daily life, nothing beats a stroll through Alfama’s streets. It is the oldest and one of the most typical neighborhoods in Lisbon. Here you might see two women chatting at the window (well, screaming) while hanging the laundry; people sitting outside on small wooden benches or the entrance steps to old houses; and, of course, people listening to fado. The sounds of fado can come from a fado restaurant or from an old tavern (here fado is called Fado Vadio since it is sung by nonprofessionals after drinking aguardiente). On the nights of June 12 and 13, Alfama celebrates Santos Populares, when the streets are adorned with colorful little flags, the air is aromatic with smoke and smell of sardines, the beer is flowing, and music is everywhere.