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AFAR chose a destination at random and sent the poet Beth Ann Fennelly with 24-hours’ notice to a Central American paradise.

Cayo Espanto is one of those fantasy vacation spots, the kind that one might think exists only in daydreams. But this private island actually is the stuff of dreams, with powdery sand and private beaches lapped by the clear Caribbean waters, doting service, and plenty to do—or not. Cayo Espanto, one of Belize’s hundreds of cays (off-shore islands), sits three miles off the coast of another Belizean island, San Pedro, and can boast what few other properties can: a location right along the second-largest barrier reef in the world.


Each of the seven villas occupies its own private slice of the cay, and an excess of amenities is included: airport pick-up service, boat transfers to and from the island, personal butler service, three customized meals per day, snacks and drinks, and all non-motorized activities, including the use of kayaks and a sailboat. Villas are painted in tropical hues and are exceedingly comfortable, with windows that open right up to ocean views. Some have private infinity-edge plunge pools.

To reach this state park off the north end of Captiva Island, you’ll need to travel by private boat or Captiva Cruises ferry. Once there, though, you’ll find 2,400 spectacular acres, including nine miles of pristine beach perfect for shelling and swimming. Keep your eye out for manatees and dolphins, which are often spotted in the surrounding waters. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can even pitch a tent or rent a primitive cabin and spend the night in the real Florida.

One way to see as much as possible of Belize is with a “rain forest to reef” package. Split your week between adventures in Western Belize’s Cayo District and R & R on the North Islands—either Ambergris Caye or Caye Caulker.

Waterfalls, Maya sites, luxury resorts, Belizean cuisine, and colorful markets await visitors to Belize’s Cayo District.

A tiny island in Samaná Bay, Cayo Levantado has three beaches but just one place to stay—an all-inclusive resort that’s surrounded by green. While the island isn’t private, it feels exclusive because the resort facilities and two beaches are just for guests. On the northeast side of the island, a third beach is open to the public during the day, with a small charge for non-guests.

Back at the resort, there are 268 rooms, suites, and beach villas, plus three pools, a spa, and activities like water sports, live shows, and an outdoor club on the renowned Bacardi Beach. Getting to Cayo Levantado from the mainland takes just 10 to 15 minutes by boat and is free for resort guests.

The best of several great Atlantic beaches around Punta Rucia, Playa La Ensenada is made up of a fishing village and 4.5-mile stretch of sand with calm, crystal-clear water. Here, you can snorkel around submerged reefs in waist-deep water, or take a 12-minute boat ride through mangroves to a dreamy sandbar (named Cayo Arena but also called Cayo Paraiso, or Paradise Island) to see even more colorful fish. The size and shape of the sandbar change depending on the currents and season, so you’re always in for a bit of a surprise.

If you’re impressed by the jungles and rivers surrounding San Ignacio, you’ll be in awe of the contrasting landscapes as you head south from town. Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve, a wide-open expanse of jungle, rocks, waterfalls, and caves, is reached by a dirt road lined with towering pine trees. Staying in a remote lodge in the reserve area is as romantic as it gets, but even a day trip has its rewards. Take a dip in fresh water after hiking to uncrowded waterfalls like Big Rock, or swim at Rio on Pools, a swimming hole fed by cool, cascading waters. This reserve is one of Belize‘s grandest wild landscapes.

Centrally located in the heart of the Cayo District, the award-winning San Ignacio Resort Hotel offers guests convenient access to the region’s best sights and activities. San Ignacio Resort Hotel features 24 rooms and has the distinction of being named “Hotel of the Year” in 2012 by the Belize Tourism Board. Room options include a honeymoon suite, regal rooms, deluxe balcony and garden rooms and one spa suite. The on-site restaurant features a number of tantalizing dishes and some of the best traditional food I’ve had in Belize. Check out the on-site Green Iguana Project and learn about San Ignacio Resort Hotel’s conservation efforts in Belize. Be sure to start at least one morning off by bird-watching over breakfast.

Ka’ana is described as a “boutique resort,” and it appeals to guests who want a sense of being in the Belizean rain forest while also enjoying the comforts and amenities of a full-service resort. Rooms and villas here seem to blend into the jungle, but it’s clear that all is carefully tamed to ensure that guests don’t feel overwhelmed by the wildness. Rooms are decorated in earth tones, with textiles and design accents all locally crafted. Furniture is sturdy local hardwood. Master suites have outdoor showers, and there are two spacious, private villas, each with its own plunge pool, garden, and outdoor terrace, among other luxuries. Staff can arrange land and sea excursions to the country’s most popular cultural, historic, and natural sites.

Mountain Equestrian Trails (MET) Outfitter & Lodge exemplifies the best of family-run ecotourism. Anywhere with an address like “Mile 8” off a pot-holed dirt road in Belize’s jungle is guaranteed to be an off the beaten path experience. The car ride in is a bumpy ride but makes arriving a true reward. The small staff of horse-riding adventurers embraces you like family and personalizes your stay with their endless knowledge of the land, animals, history, surroundings and active excursions. Toucans pose in the tree tops, parrots dart through the lush surroundings and horses graze nearby, ready for guests to ride them to nearby swimming holes, waterfalls and caves. The rooms are cozy, kerosene-lit Spanish bungalows topped with palm-thatched roofs and the Cantina serves as the central hang-out spot where farm-fresh meals and drinks are served. The Cantina is also the only place on the property with electricity and Wi-Fi so you’re not completely off the grid, but with views like the one pictured, you could care less even if you were.

The Cayo District is home to many of Belize’s ancient Maya sites, including one of the largest, Xunantunich. Located atop a ridge near the Mopan River and the Guatemala border, Xunantunich’s “El Castillo,” the main pyramid, is certainly the most impressive. Visitors who brave the steep steps to the top are rewarded with unsurpassed views into Guatemala and neighboring areas of Belize. While the climb up can be pretty steep and rough, there are other routes to get down along the backside that make the descent a little easier. It took me multiple visits to finally gather the courage to climb to the top, but I’m grateful I did, as the views were absolutely worth it! Organized tours to Xunantunich often combine with other activities like zip-lining, cave tubing, or even trips to the Belize Zoo. Travelers who wish to explore all of Xunantunich’s six plazas, which contain more than 26 temples and palaces, should plan to book a private tour or visit on their own.

This understated beach bar is one of Ambergris Caye’s best-kept secrets that is quickly getting out. Owned by “Wayo from Cayo”, Wayo’s has become my regular hang out spot over the past two years. Wayo and his wife Dee can be found at the bar every day, often sharing a drink with many of the regulars. They’ve developed longstanding relationships with countless locals and a number of tourists, many of whom come back every few months to see Wayo and the crew. The main bartenders, Ruby and Archie, will not only serve up some great drinks, they are a wealth of information on what to do and see in San Pedro. You’d be hard put to find a more chill spot to relax right on the beach. Be sure to try a local specialty — the Michelada. Made with beer and a mix of spices, this is Belize’s version of the Bloody Mary and the best cure for a hangover! Open daily, 10am to midnight.

Cave tubing is one of the most popular adventure activities in Belize. Like so many things in the country, it is another chance to learn more about Maya culture. In Maya mythology, caves were the entrances to the underworld, known as Xibalba. A rough translation might mean “place of fear,” but there’s no reason to worry these days. Cave tubing requires safety gear and is always done in groups with respected guides who are trained in safety and proper procedure. There are many options for cave tubing companies at Caves Branch and many have been leading tours since 1995. Pick one, go through the safety training, don a slick-looking helmet and life vest, grab an inner tube and you’ll be ready for your adventure down the river into a cave. Best conditions for the experience don’t involve heavy rainfall, so occasionally tours can be canceled, but your operator will judge whether it’s wise to still depart or not. As all companies have to adhere to safety requirements instituted by NICH, there’s no need to worry.

Often referred to as Belize‘s original eco-lodge, Chaa Creek opened in 1981 as a simple rain forest hotel. In the decades since, it has become one of the country’s most popular options for upscale jungle accommodations, winning awards for its hospitality and its practices emphasizing environmental sustainability. Guests have two main options in terms of room types and price points. Luxurious rooms and suites are in the main lodge, featuring polished wood or tile floors and locally made furniture; the simpler, more budget-friendly casitas sit along the Macal River. The latter are sparsely furnished and offer few distractions. Guests of either room type have access to the property’s amenities and grounds, which include a natural history center and butterfly exhibit, a rain forest medicine trail, binoculars for bird-watching, and canoes for paddling along the river.