Search results for

Uncorking Switzerland’s Secret

Hoi An’s iconic noodle dish was tangled in mystery for decades. Then writer David Farley came to town.

After a string of personal losses, a writer heads to Tamil Nadu seeking solace from her sorrows. It takes two temples, a palm leaf astrologer, and the driver of a velour-lined taxi to make her feel whole again.

Located along a stretch of coastline that’s sometimes called the birthplace of jerk cuisine, the Boston Bay Jerk Center is hard to miss. Various meats are cook on open pits using a technique that may explain why jerk never tastes so good at home: Uncured pimento logs are placed over a bed of hot coals, and the meat is laid directly on the green logs. The whole operation is then covered up by a sheet of corrugated zinc and cooked until it’s black on the outside and tender underneath. You can place your order by the quarter, half, or full pound. Don’t forget to add jerk sauce, which you can also buy by the bottle as a souvenir.

This frilly, century-old mosque, with its interesting mix of Victorian and Arabian architecture, is straight out of a Disney fairy tale. Its Corinthian columns, Doric pilasters, cinquefoil arches, and painted-glass cupolas will mesmerize you. When the green-and-cream-colored mosque was built, the surrounding neighborhood was called Kampong Kapor, or “Limestone Village.” The mosque’s staff is very welcoming and friendly to visitors who want to have a look around, and they even loan out robes to wear, as it’s considered respectful to dress modestly inside.

Standing in Plaza Congreso, you might find yourself staring up at the Moulin Rouge-like windmill adorning an Art Nouveau building on the corner. Approaching the door, you’ll see it’s covered in cobwebs - this architectural landmark, once a glamorous cafe where politicians had coffee and tea between meetings, has been abandoned for years. Confiteria El Molino (‘el molino’ means ‘windmill’) has been closed since 1996, though local activists keep pushing to fund its restoration. So far, it hasn’t happened, and the fairy tale-like building on the corner adds an eerie ghostly feel to the busy urban intersection.

This “boutique coffee house” offers various pastries, macarons and croissants with wide selection of teas and coffees. It is a romantic place for coffee!

When you travel to the Cappadocia region of Turkey you have to stay in a cave hotel. Sleeping in a room carved out of the area’s ‘fairy chimney’ rock formations is inherently cool. When you realize that your room is also literally cool—even in the midday heat—you suddenly have a better understanding of the clever ways people managed to live in a challenging environment for centuries. The hotel’s best feature might be the terrace, where you relax on pillows and eat a Turkish breakfast of apricots and yogurt as you watch dozens of hot air balloons rise from the valley below. From $76. This appeared in the August/September 2014 issue.

Jerónimos Monastery, also known as the Hieronymites Monastery, or Mosteiro dos Jerónimos in Portuguese, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Lisbon. This stunning building took 100 years to build and it’s no wonder once you experience the level of detail for yourself. I could have spent an entire day there, with my camera, photographing the stunning architecture. The archways surrounding the inner courtyard look like something from a fairy tale.

Cibo Wine Bar is a contemporary take on an Italian winery, and presents 3,500 bottles of premium wines in a dramatic two-story wine room. The bar is located in South Beach’s South of Fifth area, and there is a second location in Coral Gables. Alongside selections from Tuscany and Piedmont, lesser-known vintages from Sicily, Umbria, Sardinia, Puglia, and many other provinces are available. Cibo is known for its “wine fairies,” who fly around the racks to select your bottle of choice.

A short train or car ride from central Brussels will get you to the village of Gaasbeek, home of the beautiful Gaasbeek Castle (Kasteel Van Gaasbeek in Flemish). This 16th-century chateau looks like something out of your favourite fairy tale. But it’s more than just a pretty face. The Flemish government has owned Gaasbeek since 1980 and, during the summer months, its extensive art and furniture collection is on display. There are regular special exhibitions and even concerts held on the castle grounds. The grounds and gardens are extensive and are a popular spot for family picnics on summer weekends. On Sundays, guided tours of the castle’s medicinal garden are given by one of the gardeners.

Bangkok is well known for being a party town, but not everyone is aware of how nuanced its nightlife scene actually is. The city’s naughty reputation is alive and well in notorious red-light districts such as Patpong, Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza, but there’s a whole lot of life beyond the go-go bars. Well-heeled Thais and expats alike flock to the Thong Lor area where high-concept bars such as the fairytale-themed Iron Fairies rub shoulders with state-of-the-art techno clubs such as Demo. For James Bond-meets-Shanghai bordello flamboyance, try Maggie Choos in Silom, one of the city’s new buzz bars. Another nightlife favorite is RCA, a long strip of nightspots, which encompasses everything from cavernous clubs to intimate, grungy venues such as Cosmic Café.

This stunning white-sand stretch, just a five-minute drive east of Port Antonio, is the only beach in Jamaica with waves high enough to surf. Boston Bay is also one of the few remaining public strands on the island. It continues to attract more locals than tourists and as such is nearly vendor-free. You can watch kids splashing about on their boards, or you can rent your own for a Surfing 101 lesson. Be forewarned: As at many beaches, sometimes the waves are flat, but you can console yourself with a short stroll down the beach to the famous Boston Bay jerk chicken stands.

Castle Ho’s motto, the owner of lovely boutique 1861, is quite simple. “Women who love being women and dressing the part.” Such is the premise of her work, and it definitely transposes into her boutique. The store is decorated in what seems to be a vintage fashionista’s dream: airy space, high ceilings,Vvictorian inspiration, and soft eggshell, champagne and pastel pink hues everywhere. No boys allowed! The multi-brand store focuses on feminine, timeless pieces first and foremost, and incorporates up-and-coming designers into the mix, like UK-based Emily and Finn and Torontonians Pink Martini, along with Montrealers lines Coccolily and Arti Gogna. Don’t be fooled by the perfect, fairy-tale decor; the prices are more than fair and very few things are over $100 in the store. Guilt-free, stylish shopping? I like.

I absolutely love the interior courtyard of Christiansborg Palace. It is the type of place that seems straight out of a Disney fairy tale. Stand in the courtyard and close your eyes, imagining carriages, lanterns, and a steady stream of affluent Danes attending a grand ball—it’s a magical place. Started in 1733, the palace was completed in its present form in 1928. Over the years various stages were added and expanded in response to fire damage, periods of prosperity, and the latest design trends. The Palace currently serves as the seat of the Danish Parliament, the Prime Minister’s Office, the Supreme Court, The Royal Reception Rooms, and the Royal Stables which are the reason that the middle of the inner courtyard is a large dirt space (still used as part of the Royal Stables). You can access the ruins from the previous castle through the Christiansborg Palace museum.