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Like a nautical version of the yellow brick road, illuminated anchors embedded in the floors of Ironside Fish & Oyster lead you to the Emerald City of raw bars, where the bounteous platters come in Big, Bigger, Biggest, and Holy Sh*t. This last assortment might include, say, 24 oysters, 14 shrimp, 14 mussels, two pounds of lobster, two ounces of sustainable royal white sturgeon caviar, a portion of rockfish ceviche, and some kanpachi crudo for good measure (the mix changes daily according to what’s fresh). Not that lovers of cooked seafood will go hungry at chef Jason McLeod’s Little Italy hot spot, where the catch of the day is a perennial favorite. There’s even a small yet mighty vegetarian lineup (think charred broccolini with dried chilis, garlic, and parmesan; and Japanese sweet potato with scallion chimichurri and puffed quinoa). It’s all rounded out by an impressive bar, where 11 categories of whiskey are represented. While the menu occasionally diverges from the strictly seafaring, the decor never does. The interior design features prow figureheads turned lighting fixtures and artful stacks of steamer trunks.

When this wine country–style restaurant opened in the Laguna Hills in 2016, it was instantly embraced by locals. Maybe it’s the hillside location—no bikinis in sight—that allows diners to breathe easy and indulge. Maybe it’s the warm wood-clad dining room with its lively open kitchen. Or maybe it’s the craft cocktails and 25-plus international wines poured by the glass. Regardless, Ironwood is not the place to come while on a diet. The biggest reason: the house-made giant meatball, served with fresh, made-from-scratch herb pappardelle, spicy pomodoro sauce, and ricotta salata. Limited numbers are made each night, so it’s worth going early (the dinner-only restaurant opens each evening at 5 p.m.). The menu also features American Wagyu burgers, mac and cheese skillets, and pork shanks with fried green tomatoes and fresh burrata—plus colorful, palate-cleansing salads incorporating handpicked local ingredients. When the weather’s good, a retractable roof is pulled back from the heated patio to reveal views of the picturesque Saddleback Mountains. Must-order: the warm fromage blanc brownie with Nutella ice cream.

Downtown Denver’s most playful hotel, The Curtis offers whimsy in spades. Guests are encouraged to unleash their inner child with board games, toys, and old-fashioned candy in the lobby, while each level riffs on a different pop-culture genre, from “Sci Fi” adventure to “Dun Dun Dunnnnn!” horror (fittingly on the 13th floor). Standard rooms are filled with pops of color; unexpected elements in themed rooms include green ectoplasm-inspired floors in the Ghostbusters room and a wall-mounted sailfish in the Jimmy Buffett room (perhaps you’ll finally find that lost shaker of salt). The Corner Office restaurant and martini bar is retro-cool, with plaid upholstery and ‘60s-mod light fixtures, and the menu highlights street and comfort food favorites from all over the globe alongside inventive housemade cocktails and Colorado craft beer. There are also 24-hour business and fitness centers, but nothing about the hotel takes itself too seriously—except, of course, when it comes to showing guests a good time.

After years of development, San Antonio’s revived Pearl Brewery district is now a hotbed of activity, with an array of restaurants, shops, and residential buildings, plus an outpost of the Culinary Institute of America housed in a former 19th-century brewery. At its core is the 146-room Hotel Emma, set in the complex’s former brew house, and named for the wife of the original brewer. Envisioned by noted design firm Roman and Williams, the décor melds salvaged items with lots of rich woods, buttery leathers, and handwoven textiles, resulting in spaces that are warm and cushy. Adding to that cozy feel are higher-level rooms that feature claw-foot tubs or fireplaces, a bi-level library stocked with over 3,700 tomes, and the clubby Sternewirth Bar, which serves potent cocktails in an old fermentation silo. Food is also a focus here—in addition to Chef John Brand’s Supper, serving farm-fresh New American fare, and Larder, a café and gourmet market set in the former fermentation cellars, the hotel offers a Culinary Concierge to help connect guests to the best of San Antonio’s booming food scene.

Laguna Beach’s deep connection to the arts goes back to 1918, when 150 local creative residents started the Laguna Beach Art Association (the city’s population was only 300 then). That association went on to launch what’s now the Laguna Art Museum. Although the museum covers countless genres and eras, there’s one thing every piece has in common: They’re all made in California. The 3,500-strong permanent collection spans the early 19th century to present day, from light and space installations to pop art (and also includes pieces by art-world stars like Ed Ruscha and Wayne Thiebaud). It’s rounded out by a handful of new California-centric exhibitions each year. Highly knowledgeable docents—all have completed an extensive nine-month training course—lead lively one-hour walk-throughs at 11 a.m. Friday to Tuesday; groups of 10 or more guests may book guided tours in advance. Must-do: Hit the museum on a Thursday night when it stays open until 9 p.m. and becomes a community hub, with lectures, film screenings, and live concerts in the galleries.

Like many Hudson Valley inns, Wm Farmer & Sons owes its existence to a young New York couple who decided to quit city life in favor of greener pastures. In this case, it was Kristan and William Kirby Farmer who moved to Hudson and transformed a 19th-century structure into a 13-room inn. Spread across two main buildings, rooms feature a mix of dark grays, browns, autumnal oranges, farmhouse reds, and the occasional plaid pattern on the chairs and sofas. A few annexed suites off to the side also include full kitchens with sleek appliances like ovens and stoves. The on-site restaurant is open Tuesday through Sunday and offers a constantly changing menu of meat and seafood dishes, plus a daily happy hour with seasonal cocktails.

Guests at Ultima Thule can rest assured they’re in good hands: The lodge is run by the intrepid Claus family, particularly Paul Claus, the legendary bush pilot and adventurer who is known as much for his skilled glacier landings as his mountaineering exploits (he’s gone as far as Everest and as close to home as nearby Mount St. Elias). Hand-hewn logs from the original cabin built by Paul’s father, John Claus, still form a wing of the main lodge, though much has been added to create the world-class resort. There are now five private cabins outfitted with Craftsman furniture, plush featherbeds and bearskin rugs; a wood-fired sauna; and a large vegetable garden whose harvest—along with local game and fish—forms the foundation of many of the meals. But the real appeal here lies in the unscripted adventure excursions, some led by Paul himself in a two-seater Super Cub, which may take guests from exploring an abandoned gold mine one moment to viewing herds of Dall sheep roaming across vast Wrangell–St. Elias National Park the next.

Dreaming of chasing fresh, untrammeled powder? Then Tsaina Lodge, widely regarded as the birthplace of the Alaskan freeskiing scene, is for you. Its location on Thompson Pass, a gap in the Chugach Mountains known for its record-setting snowfalls (averaging over 700 inches a year), and dramatic slopes combine for epic heli-ski exploits on runs that average a steep 3,500 feet. Come summer, the repertoire of helicopter-assisted adventure excursions widens: Fly out to fish, hike, or glacier trek the seemingly limitless surroundings. Après-activity luxuries await back at the lodge, which is situated on the grounds of what had once been an avalanche-safe roadhouse, built in 1949. The dilapidated building was bulldozed and rebuilt in 2012, and the result is a boutique hotel that stands out for its modern, contemporary design. Floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto either glacier or forest from each of the 24 rooms, and there’s a gym, yoga space, and spa—along with a fine-dining restaurant with a focus on local seafood, meat, and game, and the reopened Tsaina Bar, legendary among early freeskiiers.

Situated in the historic West End—what some consider to be Portland’s prettiest area—this red-brick, Federal-style mansion has housed a Prohibition-era hideout, a boarding school and, for the past two decades, the intimate Danforth Inn. Today, its nine rooms are uniquely furnished with a mix of contemporary European pieces and Asian influences, as well as nearly a million dollars’ worth of modern art.


A small garden blooms with lilacs, fragrant herbs, and edible flowers in the spring and summer, while 13 working fireplaces—there’s one in each room and two in the West End Suite—make for cozy evenings come fall and winter. After a renovation completed in 2015, Tempo Dulu, a 36-seat Southeast Asian restaurant, opened with dishes like grilled lobster with spring onion cake, and dramatic design details such as a live-moss chandelier.


In 2017, the inn expanded on the Asian theme with its Opium bar; decor is meant to evoke a 1920s Shanghai speakeasy, and cocktails include the Danforth Swizzle, a rum-based drink accented with Chinese five spice–infused bitters.

Situated on Northeast Portland’s Alberta Street, smack in the middle of the Alberta Arts District, Caravan is an unique alternative to the same old hotels or vacation rentals. The hotel is comprised of six tiny, individually styled houses for rent, from the cabin-like Skyline (made mostly from upcycled material) to the Amazing Mysterium (a vaguely steampunk affair modeled after a vardo gypsy wagon, with lovely additions such as stained-glass windows and lots of built-in shelving). In true Portland style, the houses are clustered together in a “pod,” similar to how many of the city’s famous food carts are arranged. In lieu of a lobby, there’s a central outdoor common area with a fire pit (s’more-making is encouraged, and supplies are provided). Note that live bands perform for guests and a limited number of community members on Wednesday evenings during the summer months, and the whole area gets busy on the first Thursday of every month, when Alberta Street transforms into a pedestrian-only night market-cum-street party that lasts well into the evening.

The 112-room Surfjack Hotel channels 1960’s Hawaii, with vintage upholstery on the headboards, reed ceilings, and midcentury modern furnishings. The onsite Swim Club, with its outdoor pool bar, hosts music events and movie nights. Don’t miss a meal at Mahina & Sun from celebrated Honolulu-born chef Ed Kenney, whose menu showcases island cuisine and ingredients, or a trip to the Olive & Oliver boutique, whose clothing and accessories line are inspired by Hawaiian culture.

What if you could spend the night in the middle of hundreds of acres of wild scrubland—where large herds of elephant graze, gazelles bound, and elusive leopards patrol—with nothing between you and the canopy of stars but a thin black mosquito net? The Star Beds at Loisaba Conservancy in northern Kenya offer a quirky and spectacular place to wonder at the universe all night long. The camp’s comfortable beds are rolled out onto a private open deck in the evening, allowing guests to watch the darkness set in and the glittering wonder of the galaxy awaken overhead.

Perched 300 feet above the Pacific on 15 verdant acres, Hotel Wailea is a former members’ club that still feels like a hidden enclave of cool. In 2014, new owners invested $15 million in a redesign that left 72 one-bedroom suites with white oak floors, Sub-Zero appliances, and Hawaii-inspired art. Still, it’s the pool that really wins over guests—it’s calm and quiet (thanks to the hotel’s no-kids policy); there are umbrella-shaded loungers and bungalows with fans for when you’ve had too much sun; and the beyond-gracious staff are always at the ready with water, cocktails, kombucha, and coconut water. The hotel lounge offers free wine and appetizers at 5 p.m. on Friday nights, while the farm-to-fork restaurant highlights produce grown in the resort’s own garden. Complimentary on-site activities include yoga, outrigger canoeing, and mixology classes, but guests can take the hotel’s Tesla Model X house vehicles anywhere in Wailea or rent an electric bike and cruise the South Maui coast if they want to get off property.

We are exploring Cheyenne Mountain Zoo on a 24-hour getaway to Colorado Springs. Its brochure proclaims they are “America’s Only Mountain Zoo,” but that only goes part of the way to describing the uniqueness of this place. In only a couple of hours, my daughters and their friends get to feed giraffes, pet a wallaby joey, hand-feed a loud flock of cockatiels and budgies, and get incredibly close to a trio of mountain lions, just a window’s thickness away. Cheyenne Mountain Zoo: admission is $17.25 adults ($5 extra for the Mountaineer SKy Ride), $12.25 ages 3–11. The zoo is located just west of The Broadmoor, open 9 a.m. –5 p.m., tel. 719-633-9925.

At first glance, the lobby is the place to be at this boutique hotel in the Gaslamp Quarter. At check-in guests are offered a selection of local wine and beer—and again during happy hour. Under soaring ceilings supported by leather-wrapped pillars and surrounded by colorful art, you can sip and socialize. But don’t ignore the scene on the roof, either, where you’ll find a pool with oversized, floating pillows; fire pits with food and drink service; and views of the Coronado Bridge, Mount San Miguel, and the old and new architectural icons of downtown. In fact, the rooftop is so special, you may want to book the only accommodation in the 159-room hotel that grants you direct access to it: the Cabana Suite, where a private staircase leads to your own poolside cabana. On the other hand, if you’re traveling as a family, you may find that another option beats private rooftop access: the Star Suite, complete with three king-size beds, two of which form a custom-built bunk bed. Either way, expect ultra-modern furnishings paired with skyline views.