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Palácio Ramalhete has the soul of a historic property—Manuel II, Portugal’s last king, and Britain’s Duke of Windsor were once guests—without any of the attendant stuffiness. Set in an 18th-century palace on the handsome Rua das Janelas Verdes, each of the 16 accommodations has its own unique character. The Oak Suite, for instance, features wood wall paneling with an ornate carved-stucco ceiling, while the spacious Dove Room, which occupies the palace’s former chapel, is lined with original hand-painted blue-and-white azulejos (ceramic tiles).


There are three tiered internal courtyards; the highest has a small heated outdoor pool with a massive palm tree for shade and River Tagus views in the distance. Art lovers, take note: Opposite the hotel is the National Museum of Ancient Art, filled with important Portuguese works that include 15th-century painter Nuno Gonçalves’s famous Panels of St. Vincent.

From a hip up-and-coming art and architecture scene to iconic, tile-covered monuments, Porto has a lot more on offer than port and bacalhau. So take a day or two to explore Northern Portugal’s charming unofficial capital.

This store was originally for Ouriversaria Alianca, an early 20th century jewelry carrier for Portuguese art. Today, the store has changed the brand and belongs to Tous brand, but the Art Deco interior design is still so dominant. The store has a well-kept secret; a fabulous back room, where you can see more jewelry. Located in one of the main shopping streets in Lisbon, Rua Garrett.

Jerónimos Monastery, also known as the Hieronymites Monastery, or Mosteiro dos Jerónimos in Portuguese, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Lisbon. This stunning building took 100 years to build and it’s no wonder once you experience the level of detail for yourself. I could have spent an entire day there, with my camera, photographing the stunning architecture. The archways surrounding the inner courtyard look like something from a fairy tale.

You will be served good Portuguese food by the owner, Mr. Cerqueira, and you will feel like home. He knows the locals who come here often, and he knows already what each one of them likes, making a bit of conversation with them. You can reach the restaurant by catching Lavra Lift. Or, at Rossio look for Calçada de Sant’Ana, near the theater, and go up. Address: Calçada de Sant’Ana, 49

This Lisbon restaurant, more than 30 years old, is known for its creative take on Portuguese gastronomic traditions. An extensive wine list represents the many regions of the country offering opportunities to explore by simply ordering a glass. Other bonuses: the restaurant’s glorious views over the river and its location, behind the Santa Apolónia train station, less than five minutes from the National Pantheon.

A mix of Indian and Portuguese flavors, Goan cuisine can be intoxicating, from the spices and fruit to the fresh fish. Also on offer are French bistros, sushi bars, food trucks and more—a testament to Goa’s history as a stop for traders and tourists.

This square is located in the oldest and one of the most typical neighborhoods in Lisbon. Yes, typical houses, old cafes, and grocery shops can still be found here. If you hear hollering out a window, don’t worry, probably it’s just someone calling a neighbor, it isn’t a fire; it’s just how things are done in the daily life of the Alfama locals. If you’d like to know more about Fado (Portuguese folk singing), visit Fado Museum. If you feel like trying to sing it, just choose one of the narrow streets and look for an old tavern. In these taverns, after some cups of aguardiente (Portuguese brandy), everyone sings Fado—usually Fado Vadio (sung by non professionals) or Desgarrada (between two singers, improvising verses that tell a fun story). Don’t expect great voices, as probably everybody is out of tune!

On August 25, 1988, tragedy fell upon Lisbon: A huge fire turned Chiado to ruins, destroying 18 secular buildings. However, Chiado has come back to become the most elegant and trendy neighborhood in Lisbon. Fortunately, some buildings from the 18th century, a few of them renovated after the fire, still stand, remodeled by the Portuguese architect Siza Vieira. With a location on one of Lisbon’s seven hills, the neighborhood is full of old bookshops, theaters, international brands, and local fashion designers. Also, it’s a popular meeting spot for a dinner or a drink in Bairro Alto. Chiado’s streets are a symbol of the liberty of the revolution, since it was on the 25th of April, in 1974, that the Carnation Revolution would leave Largo do Carmo. Also it’s a neighborhood of intellectual life. The writers Fernando Pessoa and Eça de Queirós were habitués of the cafés.

This stone building, called the Mother-of-Water Fountain, is an old cistern where Lisbon locals used to fetch the water that flowed to the city along the monumental Águas Livres Aqueduct. Now, inside the cool walls, a wine bar has been constructed. Journalist and wine critic João Paulo Martins has selected the 300 labels stocked in the wine cellar (some stored in bottles along the stone chutes that used to rush with water). Small plate selections like carpaccio, seafood, cheeses, and different kinds of cold cuts can be ordered to accompany your wine. During happy hour, between 6 and 8:30 p.m., several wines are available by the glass or in curated flights.

Whoever doesn’t like the smell of cheese should think twice before entering this shop. Not only do they sell a wide variety of Portuguese cheeses, they also dedicate the shop to national traditions from all over the country. Besides cheese, you can buy olive oil, cakes, liqueurs, charcuterie, and more. And there is a daily tasting menu. The shop is hard to miss, in downtown just in front of a tram 28 stop, in an 18th-century building.

There is a fado song proclaiming that all artists and fado singers come to A Tendinha, here in one of the oldest areas in Lisbon, founded in 1840.


At Rossio, between the old cafes like Suiça and Nicola and on the other side of the D. Maria II National Theatre, next to Arco da Bandeira, you will find this little tasca. Here you can eat ham or fresh cheese sandwiches, bifana (pork sandwich) or some fried petiscos (snacks) like the Pastel de Bacalhau, a codfish cake, and shrimp croquettes. Ask for a beer or red wine from the house to accompany.

In spite of a world where nowadays every street is full of huge chain stores, we can still find treasures like this tiny shop. In the romantic Largo do Carmo, this charming shop is decorated in ‘50s style with red velvet sofas and classical stacked boxes. It sells exclusive and unique handmade shoes. The great quality of shoes made in Portugal is well known abroad. (The singer Rihanna designs shoes that are manufactured in the north of the country; Shakira wears Portuguese shoes; and, if you are fond of royalty, did you know that Princess Kate wore Portuguese shoes at her wedding?) Women can find heeled shoes or Oxford shoes (also known as men’s shoes). Men can find timeless classics. Everything sold is unique, trendy, and bold. After belonging to the same family for three generations, in February 2012 the shop was sold. But luckily, it was sold to another family!

Back in 1992, Portugal hosted the Presidency of the European Union, which was the reason for building this center that nowadays holds conferences and professional meetings. It is also a cultural center, with three rooms of different sizes equipped to host theater, dance, jazz, opera, film, and classical music concerts. Speaking of classical music, a festival called “Dias da Música” lasts a whole weekend and is the biggest annual event taking place here. But there is more. You’ll find art at Berardo Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, and stores in the building include a bookshop and a Portuguese-design shop. And for dining, you have a restaurant/café with a terrace outside overlooking the river.

There are so many places to visit in this neighborhood, but I don’t see a lot of tourists strolling here, maybe because it’s located in one of the seven hills, Santana. But this is a neighborhood with more than 400 years of history, so if you’re not into climbing those steps, just use Lavra’s lift, it will take just few minutes. Stroll around Casco Velho (meaning “old town”), visit the ancient parish of Campo Santana that in old times served as a bullring and flea market, and skip the tourist trap of restaurants next to Coliseu dos Recreios. Here in Pena neighborhood, you will be among the locals, tasting Portuguese food and enjoying views over Lisbon.