Search results for

For a relatively quiet town, Tlaxcala (population 73,000) boasts a booming and bustling municipal market that can occupy you for hours. Under the modern cantilevered metal roof you’ll find perhaps a dozen stalls making tortillas on the spot, and scores upon scores of vendors selling cooking utensils, dried chiles and beans, shoes and clothing, souvenirs, fresh vegetables and meats, and more. We picked up a pair of comals and a couple of wooden spatulas for the pesos equivalent of a few dollars. The market is just a short walk from the town-center zocalo, where you can take a break on a bench under huge shade trees or settle into one of the cafes that border the square.

One of the capital’s most popular bars (which becomes a nightclub in the wee hours), Bar Constitución feels like the inside of a factory warehouse. The walls are graffitied, and it’s got a refreshing mix of people from Santiago hipsters to foreign expats and university students. Bartenders pump out well-mixed cocktails and there’s room to hang out or dance to eclectic music from house to funk to ska. Constitución 61, Bellavista Phone: 56 (2) 2244 4569

The hike up Cerro de la Gloria in General San Martin Park is a steep 45-minute trek but worth the panoramic city views. Make sure you bring lots of water and go early in the day before the weather is too hot and the views too hazy. At the top, you’ll also be rewarded with an impressive bronze monument honoring the Army of the Andes led by Argentina liberator General San Martin, a battalion he marched from Mendoza to Chile to free the country from Spanish rule. The memorial was built to commemorate the Argentina Centennial of 1910. If you’re too tired to climb back down, you can take the public bus, but will need exact change to ride (check current price at the tourist office).

Glück is a genius combination of café and kids’ playroom. Parents pay for each child’s entry so that the kids, supervised by café staff, can amuse themselves with a full array of toys and games while the parents relax, have coffee, and wedge in some adult conversation. Tables come with electrical outlets so harried moms and dads can plug in and catch up with everything they should have done two days earlier. The menu features coffees and infusions, sandwiches, and pastries, all done nicely. Private babysitting is available at extra cost.

Seattle is mysteriously blessed with an abundance of excellent Oaxacan restaurants. If you love the savory fare at Ballard’s La Carta de Oaxaca — but not the long weekend wait for a table — La Cocina Oaxaquena, at the edge of downtown-meets-Capitol-Hill, is a welcome alternative. At happy hour (4–6pm and 10pm–12am), grab a patio table, enjoy a half-carafe of sangria, and snack on sizable small plates such as tacos dorados (rolled and fried tortillas with chicken or beef, guacamole, black beans, dried chile sauce, Oaxaqueño cheese, and crema), molotes, and pozole. If you’re not feeling adventurous, they also offer tacos al pastor and chips and guacamole. There’s a full dinner menu and the kitchen is open until midnight, so you don’t have to settle for chain-restaurant food downtown when this place is just a few blocks up the hill.

Most of Oaxaca‘s better restaurants are quite new, but La Catedral has been around since 1976. It is a Oaxaca institution, and besides reliably tasty food, you can also expect a lovely atmosphere and seamless service. You can pick a spot in one of the indoor dining areas, or in the lovely back courtyard next to the fountain. The menu at La Catedral is extensive and includes Oaxacan specialties such as mole negro and mole amarillo, as well as chiles rellenos and sopa de guias (soup made with zucchini shoots), but my favorite dish is the huitlacoche crepes. They also offer a buffet on Sundays from 2 to 7 pm that is popular with well-to-do Oaxacan families.

Oaxaca is known for its moles. The most famous is mole negro, the black mole—a thick, rich mixture of ground chiles, nuts, chocolate, and other ingredients. But that’s not the only type of mole you’ll find here. Los Pacos specializes in these rich sauces and you can sample seven different kinds to compare and see which you like best. If you find one you really love, they sell mole paste to take home with you, so you can prepare Oaxacan mole yourself. Los Pacos has two locations. The original is on Belisario Dominguez in the Colonia Reforma (north of the city center). This location is more popular among locals, and has an outdoor children’s play area. The other is on Abasolo in the historical center. The centrally located one has a roof terrace, perfect for enjoying warm evenings in Oaxaca.

The W Santiago is where the cool kids stay. Which other hotel would dare to have a sign reading “WHATEVER” at the entrance? Since opening in 2009, the hotel has earned a strong following, both from locals and visitors. Dimly lit with a color scheme of purples, greens, and black, the rooms are modern, with full-length windows overlooking the city. Located in Santiago’s financial district, officially known as El Golf, the W is part of a large skyscraper (hotel reception is on the fourth floor) filled with restaurants and shops. The 196 rooms reach to the 21st floor, and the W has arguably the best roof terrace in town (Hotel Noi Vitacura being a close contender). The roof terrace has an infinity pool, knockout city views, and a heli-pad for those who want to whiz off to wine country or hit the ski slopes in speedy style.

Come to “El Güero Canelo” if you’re in southern Arizona. It’s a Tucson institution where you can get the best “Sonoran/Mexican hot dogs” north of the border... But what’s a Sonoran hot dog? It’s a wiener wrapped in bacon(!), served atop beans in a bolillo roll, topped with tomatoes, mustard, mayo, onions, and green chiles. That is, if you get it “con todo"—with everything. Some say these were invented in the city of Hermosillo, about a half-day’s drive south of Tucson, in the mid-20th century. They’re hard to find in most of the U.S. A tamarind soda washes it down nicely, and at “El Güero Canelo” you can get all the salsa, pico de gallo, roasted jalapeños, and grilled green onions you can eat to go with it! (Tacos and burros—not “burritos"—also are available, as well as “caramelos,” the Sonoran term for quesadillas with meat.) For more info: elguerocanelo.com

Le Rêve rises up like a dollhouse from a street lined with bars and restaurants in the leafy neighborhood of Providencia. Completely renovated in 2011, this pretty boutique hotel works on a B&B basis, the idea being that guests make the most of the surrounding eateries. However, tea, coffee, and snacks are always available, and there is an open kitchen so guests can poke their head in the fridge when peckish. This gives the hotel a unique, homey feel.

Behind the white shuttered windows, communal areas include a lounge area with an honesty bar and a library stocked with international books. The dollhouse feel continues inside with details such as an elegant green velvet sofa, blue and white ceramics, and waitresses dressed in French maid outfits. Rooms are equipped with wireless Internet access.

Atop towering Cerro San Cristóbal, there are two municipal pools where many families go to cool off during the summer: Tupahue and Antilén. Conveniently, these all have fabulous views of the city below. However, they do come with a price tag of US$12 for the lower-elevation Tupahue, and US$15 for Antilén, which keeps crowds to manageable levels in January and February.

“Café con piernas”, or coffee with legs is an institution in downtown Santiago. Founded originally as Italian-style espresso bars decades ago, bar maidens serve steaming cups of frothy “cortados,” pumped out by macho men manning the coffee machine. While many patrons are men who must enjoy the mini-skirts, today, office workers and those running errands stop in to experience this classic coffee--Santiaguino style. There are locales all over the downtown although the largest location is on Paseo Ahumada and Moneda.

On the central coast north of Valparaíso, the beach resort town of Concón is popular with Chileans for its boardwalk, great restaurants, and, most of all, the 52 protected acres of monumental sand dunes that cascade down from high bluffs all the way to the sea. In addition to hikers, the dunes draw sandboarders who climb to the top, wax their rented boards by rubbing them with candle stubs, and then slide or sled down the slopes to the sound of the sea lions barking in the waters below.

White Rabbit has caused a clamor among Santiago foodies for its stripped-down approach to good, wholesome food. Using all organic ingredients on a short but sweet menu, this is the kind of food that your soul craves. Mac n’ cheese with black truffle oil and a touch of smoked pancetta. Classic steak tartare. Artisan fresh mozzarella in a Caprese salad. A gooey chocolate brownie for dessert, or even baked Alaska! All served in a small, modern restaurant with a young, cool crowd. Reservations essential. Antonia Lopez de Bello 118, Bellavista Phone: 56 (2) 2503 4246

What started as a hobby by Fred Koehler and his wife back in 1975, has turned into something that we all now reap the benefits of. Lynfred Winery was founded in 1979 in Illinois, of all places. Urged by some to take his talents to California, Fred refused to leave his roots and set up shop in Middle America. Over the years Lynfred has produced some award-winning vino, some of which you can sample in their tasting room in Wheeling. Grab a glass or a bottle and make yourself comfortable on the grassy lawn outside, or settle into a comfy chair in the tasting room/wine shop inside. Varietals range from Pinot Grigio to Viognier all the way to Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Grapes are sourced from all over, with an abundance from California, and even a few from Washington and Chile as well. A visit to Lynfred Winery is the perfect way to while away a couple of hours over a nice glass (or two) of wine.