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For serious wine enthusiasts, this is the closed-door dining experience of choice. On Wednesday through Saturday at at Casa Coupage, a pair of sommeliers serve a seasonal tasting menu with wine pairings to nine tables inside their elegant Palermo apartment. In this intimate environment, dinner doubles as an informal wine course - the sommelier talks you through everything you taste, discussing the grape, terroir and winemaker, answering your questions, even helping you choose a few bottles to take home with you.

I can think of worse places to be stuck than Bozeman, Montana. And when my flight was recently cancelled, stranding me there for two days, I decided to venture downtown and check out Plonk Wine Bar. Plonk is a term that refers to a poor quality wine. But the 600-plus bottle wine list here was full of surprising selections, like the Celler Cal Pla Black Slate—a blend of Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a bit of Merlot and Syrah from Spain‘s Priorat region. Equally impressive are Plonk’s cocktail and craft beer selections. I snagged a seat at the bar, took in the cowboy-meets-wine country ambiance, and ordered a glass of Torrontes from Argentina. The bartender suggested I pair it with a decadent dish of seared scallops with foie gras and braised short ribs. It was exactly what I needed to make my travel frustrations disappear.

The hot-right-now Fierro Hotel bills itself as the ‘Hotel for the Gourmand,’ and it’s no wonder - the boutique hotel is famous on the foodie scene for hosting special events like ‘One Table,’ the biweekly TFIF Happy Hour brings in the talent of celebrity bartender Fede Cuco, and - drum roll, please - resident chef Hernán Gipponi and his restaurant were recently recognized at the Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards 2013. To see what Gipponi - who honed his craft at Michelin-starred restaurants in Spain - can do, come for the nine-course modern Argentinian tasting menu, or splurge on his classy weekend brunch.

Tucked away on the second floor of a courtyard building in the residential Recoleta neighborhood, the shoe store Comme Il Faut is a magnet for tango dancers. Customers provide their shoe sizes to cheerful saleswomen, and stacks of shoeboxes—in every color and heel height—emerge from the back.

Standing in Plaza Congreso, you might find yourself staring up at the Moulin Rouge-like windmill adorning an Art Nouveau building on the corner. Approaching the door, you’ll see it’s covered in cobwebs - this architectural landmark, once a glamorous cafe where politicians had coffee and tea between meetings, has been abandoned for years. Confiteria El Molino (‘el molino’ means ‘windmill’) has been closed since 1996, though local activists keep pushing to fund its restoration. So far, it hasn’t happened, and the fairy tale-like building on the corner adds an eerie ghostly feel to the busy urban intersection.

Touring this one-of-a-kind urban villa and archaeological site allows a unique insight into the city’s history. The beautifully restored urban mansion was once the residence of a wealthy Spanish family; they fled for higher ground when yellow fever struck San Telmo, and the abandoned building later served as tenement housing for countless immigrant families. When a new buyer purchased the property in 1985, he discovered layers of historical objects in the subterranean tunnels. Today, knowledgeable local guides take small groups through the grand villa and its underground maze, pointing out the old water cistern and display cases filled with antique children’s toys, old hairbrushes and beautifully painted dishes, reminders of an era gone by.

The Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires, which opened in 1992, is really two hotels in one. The more historic of the two is the three-story, Belle Epoque mansion, built in 1920 as a wedding gift from Félix de Álzaga Unzué, a member of a prominent local family, for his bride, Elena Peña. There are mansard ceilings and toile de Jouy wall panels, and many suites are housed here. The other building is a modern 12-floor tower, which holds the bulk of the rooms. These feature double-glass windows, private bars, and armoires with HD TVs. Every cushy amenity expected of a Four Seasons property is found in both styles.

In 2013, most of the common spaces underwent a $49 million renovation, completely overhauling the lobby and the spa, and adding two new restaurants. There’s still the Roman-style outdoor heated pool overlooking La Mansión, but to complement it, more of the outdoors has been worked into the hotel: lavishly landscaped gardens, a rooftop garden, and a glass-enclosed asado-style restaurant that can be opened up to fresh air.

This small, chic hotel came into being after an Argentine PR director and her English record producer husband couldn’t find the perfect place for their visiting guests to stay during their Buenos Aires wedding. They needed a place with a bar, a spa, a nice pool, good cocktails in a friendly environment—and so in 2005 they opened Home, one of the pioneer boutique properties in Palermo Hollywood. Strategically located within blocks of much of the city’s nightlife, Home has become something of a base for those coming to the city looking to indulge in it.

Generally though, Home’s reputation is quite positive. Few modern design elements have been left out, from Knoll furniture and vintage wallpaper to the Chilean wool rugs and tech-friendly amenities like iPod-ready stereos and LCD TVs. A spacious walled garden area is the focal point of the property, holding the heated swimming pool plus deck chairs and ferns, alongside a bar and restaurant.

It’s slightly unnerving when you’re seated too close to the next table in a jam-packed parrilla (steakhouse), the clatter of dishes and voices and the televised futbol game in the background, and your stoic waiter, a giant of a man in a stained white apron, approaches your table. As you tell him what you’d like to eat - steak, naturally, and papas fritas (french fries) and a pinguino (penguin-shaped pitcher) of the house Malbec, you notice that he’s not writing anything down - in fact, he’s not looking at you at all. He saunters off and you wonder if your dinner will ever arrive. A few minutes later, he’s back, plonking a basket of bread on the table, splashing the wine on the paper tablecloth as he pours your drink. And then, course by course, all the dishes you ask for arrive, simply presented on white plates, and the roar of the game and the conversation around you rises to a pitch.


This is Desnivel, a bare-bones San Telmo parrilla that’s nearly turned into a caricature of itself. Some days you’ll find more tourists than Argentinians. Other days, it’s a bunch of local guys sitting around digging into the restaurant’s famous deep-fried beef empanadas. Love it or hate it, it’s a Buenos Aires icon.

For a little old-school San Telmo atmosphere, you can’t do much better than this classic corner bar. Dating from 1864, the antique building started out as a pulpería (general store), the seedy center of a gambling ring and even a brothel before it was converted into the popular restaurant and bar it is today. On your way in, check out the antique cash register and the gorgeous vitraux (stained glass) over the long bar: it’s no wonder this place has been used as a film set several times over. Then pull up a chair at one of the rustic wooden tables, preferably by the windows for maximum people-watching potential. If it’s morning or time for merienda, ask for a cortado with medialunas; otherwise, order an ice-cold chopp (draft beer) and a monster-sized lomito (steak) sandwich.

More than a local institution dating back to the 1850s, the Café Tortoni ranks among the world’s most famous salons. As vintage photos here show, the columned establishment has hosted more literary figures than you can count. Play billiards while you enjoy a latte, or order from the full restaurant menu.

Milonga references a style of dance intrinsic to the Argentine tango and Afro-influenced in style, known to be less formal and more rustic. This particular evening in Buenos Aires at La Catedral was serendipitous. I sat in awe watching couples dancing tango, spiralling by sexily, while I day dreamed to do as they did. The setting was dark, the atmosphere, artistic and the evening, late. After many bottles of wine and nearly dawn, we experienced a most organic moment of sound and song with the few remaining locals. They surprised us with acoustic guitar, drumming and singing that had us in a trance. It was a beautiful moment of unspoken camaraderie translated rhythmically. Come to find out, this is a typical evening at La Catedral, locals mastering the dance of love to a live band. Lessons are offered as well.

A celebrated artists’ colony an hour north of Cabo San Lucas, Todos Santos was named a Pueblo Mágico by the Mexican government in 2006 because of its natural beauty, historical relevance, and cultural riches. These riches are on display in artisan shops and artist-operated galleries that dot the former sugar town. Among the artists with studios or galleries in Todos Santos: Tori Sepulveda, Arturo Mendoza Elfeo, Jill Mollenhauer, and Michael Cope. There are several arts and music events throughout the year, including the annual Todos Santos Open Studio Tour each February, at which you can meet the artists in their studios and purchase their work. It’s also easy to do a one- or two-hour self-guided art walk through Todos Santos, including a stop in the charming if misleading Hotel California; the property is not the one featured in The Eagles’ hit song.

Dolcezza is an artisanal gelato company with several locations in the Washington, D.C. area. What makes Dolcezza unique in the world of gelaterias is that the gelato it serves up is made according to the Italian traditions in Argentina. I’m no expert in gelato to be able to tell you what the difference is between Italian and Argentine gelatos but I can tell you that what they serve at Dolcezza is truly scrumptious—creamy and smooth with intense flavor and not overly sweet. The ingredients are locally sourced and the flavors change frequently but there is something that will be sure to tantalize your palate—from the classic gainduia to grapefruit and even avocado and Thai coconut milk! Go for an affogato if you really want to treat yourself. Even if you’re not in the mood for gelato, you can pop into Dolcezza for a cup of coffee and a one of their unique Argentinian sweet treats sitting under the glass domes on the counter. Everything is baked in-house by a Dolcezza employee so it truly feels like you’re eating something home made. Some days you’ll find churros filled with dulce de leche. On my last visit, it was alfajors—dulce de leche sandwiched between two round biscuits made of corn flour and dipped into grated coconut. Yum!!

This super-exclusive private club opened recently in the chic Palermo Soho district. Members or friends of members can go to the garden bar for poolside drinks. It’s all the buzz in Buenos Aires. 54/(11) 4832-5276.