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It’s all about the view at Villa Dubrovnik, a divine hotel built into the cliff across the bay from the Old Town and Lokrum Island. The restaurant, rooftop bar, spa, and most of the rooms feature the same breathtaking vistas over the Adriatic, deep blue at depth and turquoise closer to shore. Done up in sleek, Mediterranean style, the hotel includes glass-walled balconies and external walls that merge into the golden stone of the cliffside. Those balconies are perfect for morning coffee or sunset drinks, but consider having breakfast on the restaurant terrace, under the shade provided by wind-bent pines. The spa features an indoor pool, and just outside, stone steps lead down to the Adriatic’s edge, where guests can relax on sun beds or step directly into the sea. Should you ever want to leave, the hotel’s private motorboat will zip you directly into the Old Town port.

Barba offers a fresh take on fast food, serving tasty items like octopus and shrimp burgers, anchovy sandwiches, and fried calamari, all made with today’s catch. Located on a small side street off Stradun, the shop is tiny and friendly—the perfect pit stop during a day of Dubrovnik sightseeing. Snag the prime table by the front window and watch the rivers of people entering town through the Buža Gate as you eat. Then, be sure to contribute to the restaurant’s growing collection of wooden forks, on which customers from all over the world write messages commemorating their travels.

Long lunches on sun-dappled terraces, wine tastings in rolling vineyards, dinners created around the freshest possible fish: The Dalmation Coast is blessed with a bounty of local products – peppery olive oil, Istrian ham, artisan cheeses, and of course the seafood – and the perfect setting to enjoy them in.

The Palace is located on the Lapad Peninsula, two and a half miles from Old Town. The 308 rooms all have balconies with sea views.

A city of red-tiled rooftops, pine- and cypress-shaded hills, and sparkling turquoise waters, the Old Town of Dubrovnik stuns with both its architecture and scenery. Its surrounding stone walls, built between the 11th and 13th centuries to protect the city from war and epidemics, stretch for a full 1.3 miles, comprising an immense system of forts, bastions, and walkways that offer breathtaking views. Hike along them, then be sure to check out the Lovrijenac Fortress, built atop a 100-foot rock looking out toward Venice (Dubrovnik’s historic rival). The Old Town’s main street of Stradun, known locally as Placa, is also worth exploring. It’s especially nice in the late afternoon, when the sun shines off the historic buildings and swallows soar in the blue sky above.

If you’re looking to escape the tourist hubbub in Dubrovnik’s historic core, follow the locals to Lokrum. Just a 15-minute ferry ride from the Old Town, the island offers magnificent nature walks through botanical gardens and olive groves. Paths climb up to sites like the oldest Benedictine monastery in the region and Napoleon’s Fort Royal at the very top, passing native peacocks along the way. Come for a relaxing stroll, a picnic in the shade, or a refreshing dip in the sparkling Adriatic.

The Old Town’s main street, Stradun, also known as Placa, can’t be missed—it’s the biggest and widest of all the thoroughfares, and you will probably walk it several times during your stay here. It’s especially nice in the late afternoon, when the angle of the sun makes the pavement shine and the swallows soar overhead. Continue down to the old port and along the waterfront to the far end. Porporela Pier, built courtesy of the Austrian administration’s rule in Dubrovnik during the 19th century, is today somewhat of a lovers’ rendezvous. After your stroll, the benches along the pier provide a simple relaxing moment to take in the views of Lokrum island and Cavtat in the distance.

This iconic restaurant in the Old Town of Dubrovnik stands out, even against the backdrop of lively Gundulić Square and its innumerable pigeons. From the blue-and-white-striped chairs on the outdoor terrace to the fresh seafood coming out of the kitchen, everything about Kamenice delights. As such, the affordable spot has earned a devoted local following. Settle in for dishes like mussels buzara, black risotto, fried small fish, and just-caught calamari. If you’re a fan of oysters, you’ll also want to order the succulent ones on offer here—sourced from nearby Ston Bay, they’re so fresh you can still taste the clean, salty Adriatic with each slurp.

The Adriatic Luxury Hotels group offers a number of lodging options in the city. The landmark Excelsior is a short walk from Old Town and faces the Adriatic. A recent renovation updated the 158 large guest rooms with natural tones and dark-wood furnishings.—David Farley

This appeared in the March/April 2018 issue.

One of Dubrovnik’s oldest fortresses stands atop a 100-foot rock, guarding the western land entrance to the Old Town. Vigilantly turned toward Venice, it serves as a monumental tribute to Dubrovnik’s foresight, encapsulated in the motto of the Ragusan Republic engraved above the main entryway: “We do not sell our liberty for any gold in the world.” After entering the Old Town through the Pile Gate, walk down to Kolorina Bay and climb the stairs to the fortress. Because it’s far less busy than the city walls, the theatrical space offers a more intimate way to experience Dubrovnik’s history and charm, with breathtaking views to boot.

A tribute to the zinfandel grape, which originated in Croatia, this restaurant and bar features a zin-centric wine list but also showcases regional favorites like Plavac and Dingač. Of its 100 wines, it offers about 30 by the glass, encouraging guests to taste their way through Croatia’s wine heritage. Pair your drinks with one of the restaurant’s three-tiered platters, which come loaded with Dalmatian bites, then settle in on the terrace for some live music. If you’re hungry for a full meal, opt instead for the five-course “Taste of Dalmatia” menu, which includes everything from seared Adriatic tuna and homemade oxtail ravioli to calamari stuffed with ricotta and sun-dried tomatoes. Come morning, Zinfandel also serves breakfast, which diners can pair with champagne or fig-flavored travarica, a local herb grappa.

Facing the impressive Jesuit complex in the Old Town, Kopun is just far enough from the tourist hot spots to elevate its already good food with a pinch of serenity. The menu here focuses on traditional delicacies from the region, including a buzara stew with mussels and a capon prepared from a 16th-century recipe with Eastern spices, honey, and sour orange (there’s also a 19th-century version sprinkled with porcini mushrooms). The wine list boasts several lesser-known local producers, so be sure to ask your server what pairs best with your meal.

Hidden away in the hamlet of Velika Plana inside the Velebit Mountain Biosphere Reserve, this ranch retreat is the perfect place to discover Croatia’s rugged Lika region. Either book a stay in one of the units (which range from teepees and river tents to mudhouse-style casitas and en-suite rooms with private porches) or pop in for the day to take advantage of the many activities on offer. The ranch specializes in horseback riding—guests can enjoy lessons, two-hour trots, or day-long rides that roam the range—but also features canoe expeditions, archery, and Jeep rides through the wilderness. For those who choose to spend the night, the spa compound has a pool, a Siberian cedar hot tub, space for yoga, and an outdoor treatment room.

A contemporary take on a classic 1970s Adriatic resort, Hotel Lone is Croatia’s first and only member of the Design Hotels network. The gleaming-white, Y-shaped building may sit amid the forests of Zlatni Rt Park (a 10-minute seafront stroll from the Old Town of Rovinj), but its five-story lobby forgoes nature for flowing golden fabrics, rich murals, and a suspended steel sculpture. The Scandinavian-style accommodations are decidedly more minimalist, with lots of wood and natural light aplenty—plus plunge pools on park-facing terraces in the 16 Jazz rooms. Facilities include an 18,300-square-foot spa with an indoor pool, eight treatment rooms, and a unisex sauna complex, as well as the stellar ResoLution Signature Restaurant.

A stone’s throw from downtown Split, Marjan is a hilltop park about the same size as New York City’s Central Park. Known as “the lungs of the city,” it’s the ideal urban escape, offering places to run, bike, swim, and even rock-climb. A serene path through fragrant pine forests leads up to Telegrin Peak, revealing charming chapels and sweeping sea views. Along the park’s waterfront, there are also several popular beaches, Kašjuni Cove being the favorite.