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Raise a Glass in Moda
When the crush of 14 million people (and what seems like infinite number of rude taxi drivers) gets to you, Istanbul has a cure for what ails you: a peaceful ferry ride across the Bosphorus and a seat in the leafy garden at Viktor Levi wine house. The son of a fisherman, Viktor Levi started bringing his favorite wines from the Aegean islands more than a century ago, and his namesake restaurant now has more than a dozen house varietals (with most are under 100 lira). Tucked into a side street in Moda in Kadikoy, a meal by the fountain or inside the restored townhouse might inspire your own trip to Bozcaada, or just a return trip on the ferry.