When he was training in Michelin-starred restaurants, chef Dominique Le Stanc dreamed of opening a small place where the art of cooking was more important than efficiently running a restaurant. La Merenda is that place—no phone, no credit cards, the only business being the food. The chef’s skills shine with dishes like fried zucchini blossoms, a zingy pistou-laden pasta, and, for dessert, melty sautéed figs. Guests, many of whom are locals, are seated elbow to elbow in the tiny dining room with a clear view of the gifted chef at work in the open kitchen.

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