In the low light of the evening, warmly lit sconces lead down a pathway framed with pink bougainvillea and gnarled olive trees into a complex of dwellings that is the Kapsaliana Village Hotel. Once an 18th-century village tucked quietly in the hills above Rethymno, it was eventually abandoned and left to crumble. In 2008, however, it was carefully renovated into a hotel with 18 guesthouses and 10 suites with fireplaces. The hotel is surrounded by one of the largest olive groves on the island, and in the middle of the property sits a magnificent turquoise pool that stretches toward the Aegean. Nearby, couples gather on the restaurant terrace over a glass of rosé or licorice-scented raki. Pitharia, or large clay storage vessels, are nearby, as well as other historic elements that are interspersed throughout the property. It's the best of two worlds: an ideal place to disconnect and travel back in time, but with plenty of modern comforts.