If London had an ambassador, it would be Paddington Bear. The Peruvian immigrant, who finds home here in a series of eponymous children’s books, seems to understand the city better than many born here. “In London, everyone is different,” says Paddington. “And that means anyone can fit in.”
No exaggeration, this is one of the most thrillingly diverse and culturally vibrant capitals on Earth. It’s also big. For a successful visit, you need to embrace its (excellent) public transport system—and pace yourself.
Cloth has wowed most of the capital’s food critics for what the Times of London calls “elegant, modern British cooking”.
Courtesy of Cloth Restaurant
Day 1: Explore the City within the city and uncover Southwark’s riverside entertainments
The City of London—the financial district in the borough of Southwark—is a square mile of concentrated history (founded in 47 C.E. by the Romans). Instead of being among the crowds at St. Paul’s Cathedral and the Tower of London, opt for the quiet streets in between that offer a treasure trove of architecture ancient and modern. “I always point people to All Hallows by the Tower, the oldest church in the City,” says tour guide Jack Chesher, author of London: The Hidden Corners for Curious Wanderers. “It was established in 675 A.D. and bombed in the Blitz, so there’s all these layers of history.” Explore the area’s Roman past at the London Mithraeum, a mystical temple, and the amphitheater in the basement of the Guildhall Art Gallery (both free).
Italian cafés have long served sandwiches and pasta salads to the worker bees—Chesher recommends La Forchetta on Cowcross Street—but the archetypal “City lunch” is a little more indulgent. Marshall Manson, a City exec who runs foodie newsletter “Professional Lunch,” loves the classic French fare, such as garlic snails and sausage cassoulet, at Luc’s Brasserie in elegant Leadenhall Market. (The 19th-century arcades doubled for Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter movies.) But his favorite tip is Sweetings, the seafood restaurant established by an oyster merchant nearly 200 years ago: “old-school service, beautiful wines, great desserts—and for the quality, the prices aren’t crazy.”
To walk it off, head across the river to Bankside, where the Low Line trail is reclaiming and regenerating arches and courtyards beneath an old Victorian viaduct. Grab a Danish-style macchiato at Hagen Espresso in Borough Yards, or perhaps pause for a pint at 17th-century coaching inn the George, which Chesher describes as “everything you want from a pub, from its creaky floors to its courtyard with wooden balconies and balustrades.”
The Tate Modern is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, while the Golden Hinde—a replica of Sir Francis Drake’s ship, which operates as a museum—has had a major refit. It’s a short walk or an even shorter bus ride back up to Clerkenwell, London’s design district. In the past two years, the streets around the revamped Farringdon Station have filled with hot new bars and restaurants. If you’re there on a weekday, sample the house pickles and buffalo mozzarella at Cloth.
The National Gallery is free and open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. On Fridays, it stays open until 9.
Courtesy of the National Gallery Photography
Day 2: Discover world-class art in the West End and eat alfresco on the South Bank
You can’t truly say you’ve visited London without spending time in its West End. “Soho’s having this amazing resurgence,” says Manson. “Locals like to complain because its once-grotty areas are fading away, but it’s one of the coolest places to visit right now.”
Start your day with a Scandinavian cardamom bun at Söderberg or the sausage-and-egg muffin at Nessa before hitting the indie boutiques along Brewer, Berwick, and Lexington streets. Wend southward to the National Gallery, whose epic collection of medieval and Renaissance art is particularly eye-catching after its £85 million (more than US$114 million) rehang. Make sure to pop next door to the National Portrait Gallery, too, which has had its own recent refresh, including a fabulous throwback of a basement bar: Larry’s does everything from brunch and cream teas to evening cocktails and live jazz.
Head down to the river (saluting Nelson on his column as you pass) and cross over to the South Bank, long the favored entertainment hub of the cognoscenti. If you can’t find something that appeals at its multiple theaters and concert halls, its film institute, or its contemporary gallery, you can always install yourself at Forza Wine. The “Italian-ish” wine bar made its name in Peckham before opening on the National Theatre terrace; now its cauliflower fritti is the preshow snack of choice.
Instead of following the crowds to the London Eye, Chesher suggests overtaking them and making for the Garden Museum, hidden in a deconsecrated church 15 minutes’ walk south. Alternatively, get an eyeful of the Leake Street Arches—aka the London Graffiti tunnel—beneath Waterloo Station, and pop out on Lower Marsh, with its centuries-old street market and proper Lambeth vibe. And if the food stalls have already packed up, there’s still plenty good to eat here, from the Korean hotpot at Gogo Pocha to the brika (fried egg pastry) at Tunisian Street Kitchen.
Oak & Poppy offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner—and even has a pair of one-bedroom apartments available upstairs for stays.
Courtesy of Oak and Poppy’s
Day 3: Live the high life in Hampstead and eat like a local in Queen’s Park
London’s parks are key to its identity, and every Londoner has their favorite. For Chesher, it’s Hampstead Heath, where the city seems to melt away: “You can really get lost in the different terrains, from the meadows to the woodland.” Don’t forget your swimsuit for a dip in the bathing ponds or lengths at the Lido, then hit up Hampstead village for a pick-me-up, like Heath Street Bakehouse‘s kimchi three-cheese toastie, or Oak & Poppy‘s banana bread with figs and pistachios.
You’ll want to saunter along its cozy High Street, where designer boutiques and gourmet groceries sit alongside thrift stores: I can’t get enough of the secondhand books and bric-a-brac at Keith Fawkes’s antique shop. With so many Queen Anne and Regency buildings, this whole area screams period drama: channel your inner romantic with a visit to a historic home like Keats House (where poet John Keats lived) or Fenton House, with its picturesque walled garden.
Queen’s Park, an eight-minute journey west on the Mildmay Line (an overground train line), is London’s most up-and-coming foodie destination. “I like to say it developed gradually then suddenly,” says restaurant owner Daniel Land, whose acclaimed new joint, Don’t Tell Dad, is a short walk from his front door. “The northwest has traditionally been an uncool quarter, but what started out as a great scene for locals is now the best of London.”
Walk south through Paddington Old Cemetery (Paddington Bear’s creator, Michael Bond, is buried there) and you’ll come to Lonsdale Road. Its charming row of buildings were once stables; today, they’re home to a delightful alfresco dining scene. There are Aussie brunch staples at Milk Beach, charcoal-grilled veg, fish, and shawarma at Carmel, and during the day, Don’t Tell Dad’s bakery attracts long lines for its hazelnut croissants.
Near the tube station on Salusbury Road you’ll find two more of Land’s favorite eateries: Sudu, serving home-style Malaysian dishes, and Michiko Sushino, a Japanese restaurant created by the avant-garde fashion designer who owns the office above. Wherever you end up eating, be sure to take a turn in the lovely park, where you’ll find a bandstand, a children’s farm—and perhaps a few local celebrities.
Soho Theatre has long entertained Londoners at its Dean Street location. Profits are put back into supporting new artists.
Photo by anastas_styles/Shutterstock
Day 4: Uncover the East End’s past, present, and future in Stratford, Leyton, and Walthamstow
East London vibes are no longer all about Dalston and Shoreditch. Stay on the tube a couple more stops to Stratford, pick up a boba tea with the in-crowd at the London College of Fashion’s East Bank café, then stroll around the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. You can now order objects to view at the V&A East Storehouse—a working archive that’s reimagined how a public museum functions. (It also includes the largest David Bowie collection in the world.)
Sporty types should make the most of London 2012’s legacy: Book a sample cycling session at the Lee Valley VeloPark or tour the London Stadium, now home to West Ham FC. Nearby music venue Soul Mama serves up jerk chicken and Trini Doubles from noon—and live Motown, reggae, and Afrobeats in the evenings.
Your next stop is Leyton, a 10-minute bus ride north, which Aimée Madill, owner of Phlox Books, calls a “reinvigorated community.” Find her bookstore/bar on Francis Road, whose independent businesses can keep you occupied for hours. “People will go to Marmelo Kitchen in the morning for a croissant, then they’ll pick up something from the florist, Edie Rose, and stop by the vinyl store, Dreamhouse Records . . . the old, established businesses here sit side by side with the new creatives. This area’s kept its integrity, which is part of the appeal,” says Madill.
Pick up a picnic from Yardarm, the provisioners and wine shop, and you can enjoy it on the outfield at Leyton Cricket Ground, before wandering up to Tilbury Road. Madill loves the bars now ensconced in the railway arches: microbreweries Gravity Well and Libertalia, natural wine at Swirl, and a tropical-themed cocktail bar, Leyton Calling, that has a weekly drag bingo night. Should you require ballast for all this, there’s Texan barbecue at Burnt.
Back on the bus—you’ll be getting the hang of them by now—for another short hop to Walthamstow, which was named London’s best place to live in 2025 by the Sunday Times. Soho Theatre just opened an outpost of its comedy venue here and you won’t want to miss the arts-and-crafts delights of the William Morris Gallery. But you’ll still find the traditional sights and sounds of the East End at Europe’s longest outdoor street market, which runs daily on Walthamstow High Street until 5 p.m.—and you can’t leave without spending time in a proper boozer. We suggest the Nags Head, because after your pint you can saunter round the corner to Orford’s for fish and chips.
Broadwick Soho says it draws influences “from Jazz Age opulence to travels around Italy, with a healthy dash of English eccentricity and a sprinkling of Disco fabulousness”.
Courtesy of Broadwick Soho
Where to stay
London has no shortage of hotels—many of them super stylish and under $300 per night. Other options include NoMad London, which has transformed the historic Bow Street Magistrates Court into a true Covent Garden retreat, with rooms arranged around a leafy atrium. Broadwick Soho’s rooftop bar, meanwhile, is a perfect spot to spy on city life in comfort. Both are solid choices if you want to be central. If you’re planning late nights in east London, try the Rookery, which offers period-furnished rooms in a Georgian townhouse.
