When summer hits, visitors flood nearly every strip of sand from Portugal to Croatia. What, then, is a beach lover to do? Plan a trip to go beach hopping in Albania.
I’ve thoroughly traveled this welcoming western Balkan country, Greece’s neighbor to the north, as a guidebook writer, and I’ve seen countless stretches of its beautiful 300-mile coastline populated by few international tourists. Every time I visit Albania, I’m left confounded as to how this country remains off the radar for so many travelers, despite its immense natural beauty—and despite it being a much more affordable destination than summer hot spots in Italy, Spain, and Greece.
Now, don’t get me wrong: Albania is not “undiscovered,” as I’ve heard many travelers say. Beaches in Ksamil, on the southwestern coast near the hub city Sarandë, are just as swarmed with tourists in July and August as the more famous European sandy spots. Stretches of coast fronting Himarë, Dhërmi, and Durrës, located 40 miles up the coast from Ksamil, are well on their way. But if you know where to look—and, ideally, if you can travel during off-peak season, in May, early June or, best of all, September—there are plenty of Albanian beaches where you can soak in the sun without the crowds. Here are some of my favorites.
Gjipe Beach
- Location: Southwest Albania, between Dhërmi and Himarë
- Come for: A hidden paradise accessible only on foot
Hike 20 minutes from the parking lot and you’ll find yourself looking down at arguably Albania’s most stunning patch of sand: Gjipe Beach. The hike follows a wide path and is rather easy, but it still keeps Gjipe sheltered from the largest crowds. There aren’t many beach vendors, which brings down the noise level, but also means there isn’t much you can buy besides drinks. Bring lunch.
Where to stay: Zoe Hora
- Book now: zoehora.com
Perched high above the coastline in Dhërmi’s church-filled old town, roughly five miles from Gjipe Beach, Zoe Hora showcases views of the sea, as well as a spa and a restaurant that serves delicious Albanian fare.
Aquarium Beach
Aquarium Beach is a small, rocky, and secluded stretch of sand.
Photo by Kieri Kennedy/Shutterstock
- Location: Southwest Albania, 20-minute drive from Himarë
- Come for: Crystal-clear dips in a small pool
I hesitate to share this one because it’s so small (and it’s my personal favorite), but Aquarium is too special not to mention. This tiny cove, a 25-minute drive from Livadi Beach, has transparent water and waves that gently swoosh beneath white rocks—a soothing sound you can hear all night if you use one of the campsites above the beach. (Please, leave no trace.)
Where to stay: Wait ’n Sea
- Book now: booking.com
This clean, midrange hotel is built directly into the cliffside in Himarë. You can even see the white rock peeking through the lobby.
Lumi i Shales (Shala River)
Not all of Albania’s great beaches are seaside.
Photo by Casandra Cecchini/Shutterstock (L); Ivan_Shamkii/Shutterstock (R)
- Location: Northern Albania, in the Albanian Alps
- Come for: A hidden river beach with turquoise water
Lumi i Shales isn’t a coastal beach; rather, it’s dried patches of riverbed along the turquoise Shala River, located between canyon walls in the Albanian Alps, also known as the Accursed Mountains. A visit here sure feels like a trip to the seaside on a warm summer day, though, as you can go for a dip in the refreshing water and sip Birra Korça on beach chairs.
Get here via small boat from Koman, or as a full-day trip involving a minibus transfer from Shkodër. The drive to Koman is windy and narrow, so many choose to play it safe and do the full-day trip from Shkodër.
Where to stay: Agora Farmhouse
- Book now: agorafarmhouse.com
Located less than 12 miles from where the boats leave for Lumi i Shales on the way to Koman, Agora Farmhouse features cute, wooden A-frame cottages that can fit up to four people, plus a northern Albanian restaurant that sources from the property’s garden.
Borsh Beach
- Location: Southern Albania, between Sarandë and Himarë
- Come for: A long, spacious stretch of sand and a spring festival
There’s plenty of room to lay out a towel at 4.3-mile-long Borsh Beach, and a calm, family-friendly vibe in contrast to the party vibes at Ksamil and Dhërmi. Or if you’re looking for some action, come in late May for the South Outdoor Festival, which combines live concerts with activities like kayaking and trike flying.
Where to stay: Les Villas de Qeparo
- Book now: lesvillasdeqeparo.com
The three stone villas at this property, less than five miles from Borsh Beach, hover nearly a thousand feet above the coast in Upper Qeparo, a former ghost town known for its olive groves.
Seman Beach
- Location: Western Albania, 25-minute drive from Fier
- Come for: Kitesurfing
In Vlorë, the turquoise Ionian Sea meets the royal blue Adriatic Sea, leading to rougher, windier conditions and a northern current. Because of this, Albania’s northern beaches aren’t as popular for sun seekers, but they’re mouth-watering for kitesurfers. Come catch some wind on long Seman Beach, and take classes with experienced coach Artur Sulejmani at Kitesurf Albania.
Where to stay: Bohemian Suites
- Book now: bohemian.al
Stay in Vlorë, 27 miles from Seman Beach, at this boutique hotel in the coastal city’s pastel-colored historic center. It balances its relaxed, bohemian decor with modern comforts such as flat-screen TVs.
Rana e Hedhun
Rana e Hedhun translates to “thrown sand” in Albanian.
Photo by Marisha_SL/Shutterstock
- Location: Northern Albania, 10-minute drive from Shëngjin
- Come for: Sand dunes and vanlife vibes
Winds coming up from the Adriatic blow sand north, causing it to pile up in remarkable dunes on the beaches west of Shëngjin. Rana e Hedhun, in particular, has become a summer destination among the alternative crowd, with cool hangout spots like Bar Ledh and a carefree sensibility accentuated by those touring in camper vans.
Where to stay: Hotel Tradita
- Book now: traditagt.com
Stay at this hotel in an impeccably preserved Ottoman-era residence with vintage artifacts spanning hundreds of years. It’s in the colorful northern city of Shkodër, 23 miles from Rana e Hedhun.
