You might have seen the news: This summer, Copenhagen is trying to reduce tourism’s environmental impact by rewarding visitors who add sustainable activities to their itineraries. Bike to a particular café, get a free cup of coffee; help weed and harvest vegetables at an urban farm, get a free meal (a biodynamic one, of course).
Was there ever a more Copenhagen-y promotion? This, after all, is the city that became the first in the world to set a zero-emissions goal; the place that converted 90 percent of the food served in its public kitchens to organic; the capital that not only built a municipal power plant that runs on waste but also turned that plant into a massive ski slope. Bringing tourism along for the sustainable ride seems right on brand.
The tourism initiative is more than good publicity. What I’ve realized after a decade of living in Copenhagen is that the Danish capital’s regular emphasis on sustainability is a big part of what makes the city such a joy. From the abundance of parks to the nearly 400 kilometers of bike lanes, the clean harbor waters that turn the entire inner-city harborfront into a beach, and the organic produce and natural wines that form the building blocks of the city’s thriving restaurant scene, Copenhagen is a rare metropolis that ensures fresh air and nature are never too far from its vibrant urban life. Here’s how to make the most of four days in Copenhagen.
Design Museum Danmark has a storied history. It was built in 1751 as the country’s first public hospital and has hosted Kaare Klint’s design studio and furniture school.
Courtesy of Design Museum Danmark
Day One: Grab a bike and explore the harbor
First things first: You’re going to need a bike. Not only is cycling the quintessential way to get around this city, it is also the most efficient and fun. There’s no shortage of bike-lending options, but to contribute to the local economy instead of an international tech company, skip the apps and rent from a brick-and-mortar bike shop like Baiskeli. Mount up and head toward the harbor for lunch and a tasty introduction to one of Denmark’s great culinary contributions: the open-faced sandwich. For Martin Ho, who grew up in Copenhagen and owns the insanely popular natural wine bar Pompette, Lumskebugten is the smørrebrød purveyor of choice, noted for its refined approach to classics like smoked eel with scrambled eggs. “They peel the tomatoes—that’s how much they care,” he says. “It’s the kind of place where you want to become a regular.”
After lunch, you can go see The Little Mermaid statue if you must (she’s about a minute away by bike), or get a beautiful view of the harbor by walking around the top of Kastellet, a still-active, oddly adorable military base that functions as a city park. Then, choose your entry into different parts of the Danish experience: Visit either the Museum of Danish Resistance, whose fascinating interactive exhibitions tell a gripping but nuanced story about the difficult choices the country faced during the Second World War, or the recently renovated Design Museum Danmark, which helps explain why so many homes are filled with sleek Danish modern chairs. Whichever you choose, make your way afterward to the nearby wine bar Lille Blå, whose Yves Klein–blue walls offer a striking backdrop against which to refresh yourself with a glass of Grüner Veltliner. The cobblestone streets and long rows of ocher-colored houses make the Nyboder neighborhood, with its smattering of appealing design shops—like Frama for clean-lined housewares or Hanne Bertelsen for lusciously colored ceramics—ideal for strolling on the way to dinner. At Alouette, newly installed across from the effusively floral King’s Garden, American-born chef Nick Curtin brings punchy flavors to pristine Nordic ingredients and relaxes the fine-dining ambitions with warm, laid-back service.
Tivoli Amusement Park offers rides both whimsical and thrilling.
Photo By Tony Moran
Day Two: Cardamon buns and peaceful parks
Though they are native to neighboring Sweden, Copenhagen has become the city of cardamom buns, and you might as well start with the best: Juno, in an eastern part of the city known as Østerbro, is worth the inevitable lines for those and other stellar pastries, and in good weather, the terrace is a prime breakfast spot. From there, cycle past the lakes to SMK, the national art museum, which combines rooms of works by Europe’s greatest artists with Danish galleries that always seem like a discovery—and, pro tip, an enticing gift shop. But it’s what’s outside that most entices Lars Hinnerskov Eriksen, a culture journalist for Denmark’s largest newspaper, Politiken. “To alleviate the stresses of a busy workday, I take a stroll through the parks of central Copenhagen,” he says. “Along the paths around the lake in Ørstedsparken, then a quick inhale of the produce in Torvehallerne’s food market, and onto the bucolic oasis that is the botanical gardens.” Or you could do the reverse; start at the botanical gardens to take in their leafy winding paths, the Victorian glass house filled with tropical imports, and the wondrous butterfly house. Then hop over to the market just in time for tacos at Hija de Sanchez or charcuterie and cheese at Omegn & Venner.
It sounds corny, but if you’ve never been to an old-school amusement park, Tivoli is a delight. One of the few located smack in the middle of a city, it is a true European pleasure garden, with whimsical rides, beautiful flower gardens and, in summer, a serious lineup of artists performing on Friday nights. You could stick around for dinner at one of the guest pop-ups; this year, the acclaimed Faroe Islands restaurant Koks will be cooking. Or you might ride a bit west to Surt, in Carlsberg Byen, to eat a meal that Ho—who geeks out in amazement over the well-hydrated sourdough base that the owner, Peppe, turns into perfectly chewy, charred crust—calls “some of the literally best pizza anywhere.” After that, choose your temptation: luscious ice cream at the newly opened Aurora right around the corner, or luscious cocktails and sweet-sounding vinyl at Bird, a quick bike ride away.
Kadeau serves up dinner from Tuesday to Friday, and lunch and dinner on Saturdays.
Photo (Left) By Soren Reed, Photo (Right) By Marie Louise Munkegaard
Day 3: Tour a graveyard before hitting up the beach
Another morning, another bakery. Rondo, in Nørrebro, makes a beautiful, orange-scented morning bun (think brioche with a lot of sugar). From there, take a short stroll through Assistens Cemetery . . . which sounds like a weird place to visit but is delightful: The graveyard is not only Hans Christian Anderson’s final resting place but also an urban refuge. Exiting on the north side will bring you to Jaegersborggade, where you can get a pour-over coffee from one of the original Nordic revolutionaries, Coffee Collective, and shop for delicate ceramics, Scandi-chic clothing, and homemade chocolates on a street loaded with independent shops. On weekends, Baka d’Busk, with its wildly creative all-vegetable cooking, raucous dining room, and funky wines, is a great place for lunch.
In the afternoon, ride to Amager Strand, a long, sandy beach where you’ll find Danes swimming regardless of the weather (those feeling a bit less Viking can escape the elements by continuing on a little further south to the aquarium). After, swing by Josephine, which manages simultaneously to feel like both a cozy neighborhood bar and the most insidery wine spot in Copenhagen, for an aperitif. Christiania may no longer host an infamous open-air cannabis market (the city closed Pusher Street for good earlier this year), but its imaginative DIY homes and green setting still offer a glorious backdrop for a stroll. After, head to neighboring Christianshavn for dinner, either at Kadeau, a New Nordic standard-bearer whose creative cooking and warm, polished service is inspired, or the more casual Donda, where bright, Latin-inspired seafood and cocktails fill the menu.
There’s plenty of space in Copenhagen Contemporary for larger art projects, “art that can often be entered and sensed with the whole body”.
Photo Couresty of Copenhagen Contemporary
Day 4: More pastries and a quick sauna
It’s your last morning in Copenhagen, so of course you’re going to want one last bike ride and pastry. Ride out to Refshaleøen for breakfast at funky, friendly Lille for fresh, cream-filled berliner and spicy sausage rolls. It’s a short jaunt from there to Copenhagen Contemporary, a sprawling gallery in a raw, industrial space that once comprised the former shipyards—a space that Eriksen loves not only for its ambitious installations, but also because it has “an interactive playground for kids to paint, build, and dream their way around the themes of the artwork.” At La Banchina, built into an old boathouse, you could round out the day with a sauna and a dip in the harbor or with a light bite and one last glass of natural—of course—wine.
Guest activities at Hotel Kanalhuset include yoga, crochet and knitting, and a running club.
Photo courtesy of Hotel Kanalhuset
Where to Stay
Try Nobis Hotel, which is entrally located near the central train station, Tivoli, and a cluster of museums. The elegant hotel walks the line between stately and Nordic cool. Or Kanalhuset, a small, canalside hotel in the Christianshavn neighborhood whose cozy rooms and café embody hygge.
