This Medieval City in Europe Is Flowing With Chocolate and Lakeshores

Geneva is compact, comfortable, and delivers on history, architecture, and delicious things to eat and drink.

Yellow boat on Lake Geneva, with city buildings lining shore in distance

Since 1897, the Mouettes have been criss-crossing Lake Geneva via four lines.

Photo © Switzerland Tourism/Andre Meier

Switzerland is best known for its jaw-dropping mountains, but the city of Geneva is majestic in a more cultural way. This destination distinguishes itself for its diversity—it’s a hub for international diplomacy—and its history. The result is a cultural milieu as rich as the fondue.

The steep, winding streets of Old Town invite travelers to slow down and admire the melange of medieval, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture. An efficient public transportation system whisks visitors from an 18th-century neighborhood built by a Sardinian king to a riverfront restaurant serving the city’s first omakase, but green (and blue) spaces are never far; the city’s beating heart is its beautiful namesake lake.

Read on for six things to do in Geneva for every type of traveler.

Aerial view of medieval church with two towers and a steeple, surrounded by other historic buildings

Climb the 157 steps to the top of the Church of St. Pierre for a sweeping view of Old Town and Geneva.

Photo © Genève Tourisme/Loris von Siebenthal

Travel back in time in Old Town

Geneva’s Old Town has a long history that spans from Roman settlement to its newfound reputation as “Protestant Rome” following the Calvinist Reformation in the 16th century. The greatest artifact of this latter period is the 12th-century St. Pierre’s Cathedral, which was renovated in the 16th century and has retained its original tower; climb the 157 steps for a panoramic view of the city and Lake Geneva. On your way out, make a detour to the basement, where you’ll find remnants of 4th-century churches and the former cells of monks.

A few steps from the Cathedral is the International Museum of the Reformation, whose nine rooms house paintings, manuscripts, books, and pop culture memorabilia that survey the history of the protestant movement, spanning from the 16th century to present day. Within a 15-minute walk, discover the outdoor Passage des Templiers and indoor Passage des Lions, two of several secret passages that both the military and residents used as far back as the Middle Ages. End the journey back in time at Place Bourg-de-Four—the city’s oldest square is filled with bustling patios perfect for people-watching with a glass of wine.

Woman sitting on a wooden boardwalk overlooking lake, with tall fountain in distance

The Bains des Paquis, a jetty on Lake Geneva, is the most popular place to hang out in nice weather.

Photo © Genève Tourisme, Gauvin Lapetoule

Swim in Lake Geneva

After a stroll or cycle along the Quai Wilson—a nearly four-mile long waterfront promenade decorated with public art exhibitions—take a dip in Lake Geneva (also known by its French name, Lac Leman). You can simply wade into the lake or head to Bains des Paquis, a jetty where locals sunbathe in the summer and steam in the on-site sauna and hammam in the winter. You could while away an entire day here, especially in summer when there are daily happenings such as philosophy workshops for children, cold water swimming lessons, and morning yoga classes. The snack bar serves proper restaurant fare, such as a smoked salmon salad or a classic fondue. This is also the ideal swimming spot for taking in the 460-foot-tall Jet d’Eau fountain across the lake. A nicer option for anyone who prefers a sand beach is Plage des Eaux-Vives, also known as Baby Plage, which is across the lake from Bains des Paquis and accessible on foot or by a ferry from the Mont-Blanc stop.

Five-level chocolate fondue fountain at Kiosque Des Bastions’ buffet, with blue and white horizontally striped walls in background

The chocolate fondue fountain at Kiosque Des Bastions’ Sunday brunch buffet is one way to enjoy Swiss chocolate.

Photo by Anna Haines

Eat Swiss specialties, as well as international dishes

No trip to Geneva would be complete without trying Switzerland’s two most prized foods: cheese and chocolate. Cheese fondue is certainly easy to find in Geneva, but for a real medieval feel in one of Geneva’s oldest period rooms, head to Restaurant Les Armures, where the menu is said to have remained the same since the 17th century. Chocolate lovers can make their own sweets at La Bonbonniere, a century-old chocolate factory in Old Town. Or just cut to the chase and indulge in the chocolate fondue fountain at Kiosque des Bastions’ Sunday brunch buffet.

But Geneva doesn’t just do the Swiss classics well; you’ll find food from around the globe here. More than 40 percent of the city’s residents are from countries other than Switzerland, and this diversity is reflected in its restaurant options, from omakase by Nobu-trained chef Mitsuru Tsukada at Sachi to colorful Ethiopian and Eritrean stews served atop spongy injera at Nyala Barka.

Swiss wine is overshadowed by that of its neighbors, but thanks to a unique microclimate created by their proximity to Lake Geneva and the Rhone River, vineyards around Geneva produce world-class gamay (red) and chasselas (white) varieties. Taste these and other Geneva wines like pinot noir and chardonnay on a 20-minute tuk-tuk ride from the city.

Antiques on display under small tents and on tables in flea market in Plainpalais

Look for antique watches at the Patek Philippe Museum, or hunt for your own at the nearby market.

Photo by Anna Haines

Lose track of time in the Plainpalais neighborhood

Switzerland’s reputation for exceptional craftsmanship extends to its high-quality watches. Just look at the vast collection of 2,500 watches, enamel miniatures, and musical automatons on display at the city’s Patek Philippe Museum. Covering five centuries of Genevan, Swiss, and European horological art and housing a library with over 8,000 publications about time, visitors can easily lose track of time here. Their ‘Rare Handcrafts’ models showcase the delicate art of hand engraving under a binocular microscope, creating a newfound appreciation for the meticulous work of jewelry and watchmakers.

A few minutes’ walk from the museum is the more than 50-year-old Plainpalais Market. On Wednesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays, it’s a flea market filled with antiques, jewelry, and clothes; on Tuesdays and Fridays, it’s a farmers’ market, the offerings rounded out with food trucks serving a range from regional Thai food to Colombian empanadas. If you miss the market, the neighborhood has plenty of shops to explore: Check out Les Recyclables for second-hand books with a side of coffee, Pourquoi Pas for womens wear and sneakers, and cozy Librairie Atmosphère for all kinds of books, stationery, and home goods.

Entrance of International Museum of the Red Cross and Red Crescent, with two red and white logo banners overhead

Created in Geneva following the Second World War, the Geneva Conventions is part of an interactive experience at the International Museum of the Red Cross and Red Crescent museum.

Photo © Suisse Tourisme/Andre Meier

Visit the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum

Geneva played a historic role in putting humanitarianism on the world stage when the Red Cross was founded here in 1863. Learn more about the history of humanitarian aid at the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum, where at least an hour can be spent exploring the permanent and rotating exhibits, as well as checking out events like cooking classes and art workshops. One artifact in the permanent collection not to miss: the Geneva Conventions—a set of treaties and protocols that govern international laws for humanitarian treatment in war.

Downhill from the museum is the Broken Chair, an over-12,000-pound, 39-foot-high wooden monument honoring populations harmed by armed violence. From the Broken Chair, continue along the long row of flags to the European headquarters of the United Nations—the Palais des Nations. One of the largest diplomatic conference centers in the world, the grand building is an impressive example of 20th-century architecture.

Ornate white ceiling of Eglise Saint-Croix Church in Carouge, with large organ in background

With sights like the 18th-century Eglise Saint-Croix Church, Carouge is a far cry from the North American conception of a “suburb”.

Photo by Anna Haines

Explore an 18th-century village within the city

In the 1760s, the King of Sardinia—which didn’t become part of Italy until 1861—built Carouge with the intention of making it a separate city that would rival Geneva. While it remains a separate municipality today, locals consider it a suburb of Geneva, as it’s an easy 20-minute tram ride from downtown. With its cobblestone streets embellished with stucco facades, ornate doorways, and decorated moldings—signature characteristics of Sardinian architecture—it’s no surprise Carouge is protected as a Swiss National Heritage Site.

Must-visit spots include the 18th-century Eglise Saint-Croix, a Roman Catholic church, and Cinema Bio, an art-house movie theater that opened in 1912. Nearby, the lines at Gelatomania and Manu Gelato are worth the wait. Head to one of Carouge’s oldest bistros, Bistrot du Lion d’Or, for refined French Swiss cuisine with Mediterranean flair (such as red mullet fish stuffed with fregola and Iberian chorizo), or go for something warming at Indian Rasoi, whose drinks menu focuses on wines from the Geneva region.

Exterior of the Mandarin Oriental beside water at dusk

While there are plenty of charming old hotels in Old Town, rest up at the Mandarin Oriental for something refreshingly contemporary.

Courtesy of Mandarin Oriental

Where to stay in Geneva

Mandarin Oriental Geneva

Set overlooking the Rhône River, the 178-room Mandarin Oriental, Geneva, offers views of the area against the snow-capped Alps both from guest rooms (many have private terraces) and the impressive Royal Penthouse, which comes complete with a private hammam.

The hotel upholds Geneva’s high level of care for sustainability by eliminating single-use plastic, getting 100 percent of its thermal energy from Lake Geneva, and donating its soaps to be recycled and distributed to the needy and unhoused.

Citizen M Geneva

In the Old Town (a short walk from Cathedral St. Pierre and five minutes’ walk from Lake Geneva) is the thoroughly modern CitizenM Geneva, housed in a late 17th-century building. Its 144 rooms, flooded with light from a wall of windows, are pleasingly minimalist and make good use of space, with drawers under the bed and a desk with a work chair tucked against a wall. This is a popular hotel with people working remotely, as there are Mac desktops available for guest use and plenty of comfortable public spaces to post up with your own computer.

This story was originally published in 2023 and was most recently updated on July 23, 2025, to include current information. Sophie Friedman contributed to the reporting of this story.

Anna Haines is a journalist and photographer. She currently writes about wellness, style, and beauty for Forbes and was previously a travel writer for Buzzfeed’s Bring Me! vertical.
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