You could easily miss the entrance to Desolation Hotel Hope Valley as you round a scenic bend along Route 88 in Alpine County in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. You might be too busy staring at the beautiful quaking aspen trees that line the bumbling West Fork Carson River that runs alongside the road. Or you might not spot it because the property is tucked into such an unassuming corner of Hope Valley, away from the crowds and congestion of Lake Tahoe, that it sneaks up on you from its remote location among the tranquil scenery. There’s not much else around—and that’s a good thing.
Hope Valley is an idyllic slice of mountain life just south of Lake Tahoe, where it’s easy to get lost from the world for a bit, as I recently did with my family during a long weekend getaway from San Francisco’s Bay Area. It has all the beauty of the Sierras that makes nearby Tahoe such a popular vacation destination, minus the masses. The region is filled with alpine lakes, forests, and peaks to hike to and around and has access to biking, fishing, and skiing; and it’s just a 20-minute drive from world-class slopes at Kirkwood. So, while the Bay Area crowds flock to Tahoe in the spring, summer, fall, and winter, this quieter mountain paradise is better suited for those seeking more solitude.
Each time we’ve visited Hope Valley, the most recent outing being this past spring, we’ve been able to blissfully disconnect from our busy lives back home and truly be in the outdoors in a beautiful and immersive way. And yet, if we’re itching to grab coffee or a meal, hit some shops, or see some sites in South Lake Tahoe, it’s a mere half-hour drive away, offering the best of both worlds, the healing benefits of nature and a bit of socializing and bustle if and when needed.
Where to stay in Hope Valley
The updated cabins and cottages at Desolation Hotel Hope Valley can sleep between two and eight guests.
Courtesy of Desolation Hotel Hope Valley
Desolation Hotel Hope Valley
Book now: Desolationhotel.com
Desolation Hotel Hope Valley is really the only game in town for the more secluded Hope Valley, but you can’t go wrong with a stay at this nearly 100-year-old, 165-acre mountain resort that reopened in Summer 2020 after an extensive update; it was recently purchased and rebranded as Desolation Hotel Hope Valley (there’s a sister eco-hotel, Desolation Hotel Lake Tahoe, located in South Lake Tahoe).
The Hope Valley property consists of a unique and charming mix of standalone, freshly renovated cabins; newly built yurts; a vintage Spartan trailer; and RV and tent campsites. All are nestled into the hillside among the aspen forest and a rolling river. The cabins feature distinctly cozy and modern Scandinavian-style decor that evokes major hygge vibes and full kitchens (complete with stove, oven, microwave, fridge, and pour-over coffee setup). And each can sleep between one and eight people depending on the layout. Or opt for a luxurious yurt with a freestanding soaking tub and overbed skylight ideal for stargazing.
There are hiking trails along the property as well as a small general store and front desk, where you can get additional information about outdoor activities, such as snowshoeing and cross-country skiing in the winter (my husband borrowed some snowshoes while we were there and spent a beautiful, crisp morning exploring a meadow nearby amid some extremely photogenic freshly fallen snow). There’s also an on-site sauna, perfect for warming up after a day in the snow.
All dining, besides cooking you might do at your cabin or campsite or quick trips to South Tahoe, happens at the onsite restaurant Sorensen’s, which serves American fare like a classic burger alongside cozy alpine dishes like burgundy stew and venison stroganoff; the selections change seasonally. There’s a kids’ menu, along with beer, wine, and craft cocktails. You can also pick up some basic snacks and drinks in the reception area. If you want to cook in your cabin or at your campsite, definitely bring food from home or grab groceries on the way or in South Lake Tahoe. There isn’t much in the immediate vicinity.
If it’s the forest you want (plus riverfront relaxing), it’s the forest you shall have at this idyllic A-frame.
Courtesy of Airbnb
Riverfront A-frame Airbnb in Kyburz
Book now
If Desolation Hotel Hope Valley is booked up or you’re looking for something that’s even more removed from the world—with your very own private riverfront beach—just 30 miles west you can rest your head at this charming three-bedroom A-frame cabin nestled into the woods. There’s an in-ground fire pit for post-river-rafting s’mores and a gas BBQ for some grilling and chilling. The wraparound deck offers views of the surrounding pine trees. Both pet- and family-friendly, this cabin is a wonderful oasis in summer or winter, as there are several ski resorts within 20 to 40 minutes away by car.
Things to do in Hope Valley
Head to the small but charming Kirkwood Lake for a secluded and scenic jaunt.
Photo by Michelle Baran
Mountain and lake hiking
Hope Valley is truly a hiker’s paradise. With no cell or Internet connectivity at Desolation Hotel Hope Valley, you will need to rely on printouts from home or old-school trail books or pamphlets, or you will need to download trail information in advance. Some options: Fallen Leaf Lake, an easy 20 minutes in each direction that ends with being able to dip your toes in the crystal clear water; Echo Lake, a beautiful destination with a wide range of hiking options from easy to more challenging; Snowshoe Thompson’s Cave, a short 1.15-mile hike filled with lore; Kirkwood Lake, an easy and serene lake loop, great for tackling on the way to or from Hope Valley; and Jobs Peak, a more difficult 4.4-mile trail near South Lake Tahoe that includes a 2,000-foot climb.
Skiing and snowshoeing
In the winter months, you can tackle the trails in showshoes. Desolation Hotel Hope Valley offers complimentary showshoes to guests and also has guided snowshoeing experiences. Skiers and snowboarders can head to some of the nearby mountain resorts to get in some runs, including Kirkwood and Heavenly, which are both within a half-hour drive.
Hope Valley is just as beautiful (if not more so) in winter as it is during warmer months.
Lisa Parsons/Shutterstock
Cycling and mountain biking
Whether you want to just tool around on some flatter terrain or catch some speed on the hills, there are plenty of opportunities for two-wheeled adventures. You can bring your own bikes or rent some from the shops in South Tahoe.
Where to eat and drink in Hope Valley and South Lake Tahoe
Sorensen’s
As mentioned, Desolation Hotel Hope Valley is really the only option in Hope Valley for accommodations, and the same goes for dining. The on-site restaurant, Sorensen’s, serves breakfast and dinner, both for dining in and taking out. I can personally vouch for the delicious käsespätzle (a German-style mac ‘n’ cheese with bacon and caramelized onions). The menu changes seasonally.
Outside of Sorensen’s, if you want to stay in Hope Valley, you’ll need to do your own cooking (you can pick up groceries at Whole Foods in South Lake Tahoe). Otherwise, head into South Tahoe for these restaurants if you’re looking for a bit of variety or a break from cooking.
Frescana Mexican Bistro
Whether you’re craving a hearty breakfast burrito or chilaquiles to fuel up before a day of hiking or skiing, or like the idea of ending the day with some crispy fish tacos or a burger relleno (a burger smothered in enchilada sauce), Frescana in South Lake Tahoe has you covered. The cuisine and ambience here is just sophisticated enough to make it feel special without being stuffy—there’s also a kids’ menu.
Coachman Hotel
Yes, this renovated 1960s-era motel is a cool place to rest your head in South Tahoe, but the lobby and check-in desk at Coachman Hotel also double as a coffee shop and bar, serving breakfast sandwiches, burritos, cappuccinos, and lattes in the mornings, and transitioning to grilled cheeses, tomato soup, flatbreads, local craft beer, and wine in the evening. There are cozy couches with board games for guests (and nonguests) to enjoy in a very relaxed setting.
Drink Coffee Do Stuff
Another great place for a morning brew is Drink Coffee Do Stuff (formerly Black Cabin Coffee). They serve drip, cold brew, espresso drinks, and some interesting latte creations, plus breakfast sandos (including a lox option on an everything bagel), pastries, toasts, and smoothies.
Base Camp Pizza
When in the mountains, pizza night is a must. Order take-out from perennial South Tahoe favorite Base Camp Pizza; its gourmet pies include a pear and gorgonzola pizza, a Thai chicken curry pie, and a Mediterranean pizza.
How to get to Hope Valley from the Bay Area
Take Highway 80 into Sacramento, then Highway 50 toward Lake Tahoe. Upon approaching South Lake Tahoe, you will turn right onto Highway 89, then left onto Highway 88. Desolation Hotel Hope Valley will be on the right on Highway 88. It’s a roughly 3.5-hour drive from the Bay Area.
Take Highway 4 through Antioch, then merge first onto Highway 160, then onto Highway 12 East. Briefly get onto the 5 North and then take Highway 88 all the way to Desolation Hotel. This southern route is also roughly a 3.5-hour drive from San Francisco and its environs.
This story was originally published in October 2020 and was updated on May 20, 2024, to include current information.
