PHOTO COURTESY OF LITTLE PARK
New York chefs are rethinking the classic steak tartare (and there's even a version for veggies!)
The classic steak tartare is well-covered territory when it comes to New York City menus. Good news: A new legion of young chefs is looking to take the dish beyond its classic capers, watercress, and toast point origins. Here's how to find the version that best suits you.
For the traditionalists: Beef tartare with smoked cheddar, Wildair
One of last year’s most acclaimed new restaurants is also home to a great new-school tartare. Wildair chefs and co-owners, Fabian Von Husk and Jeremiah Stone, hand-chop beef with pickled ramps, fresh horseradish, toasted buckwheat, and a dusting of house-smoked cheddar cheese.
For the umami-lovers: Dry-aged beef tartare, Casa Mono
Look no further if you like your tartare with an extra dose of umami-laced funk. Dry-aged ribeye is paired with a creamy mustard sauce infused with flavor-boosting ingredients like mustard power, dried porcini mushrooms, and a super-concentrated tomato paste.
For the modern set: Lamb Tartare, Rebelle
From its gamey central protein to the green chickpeas and olives paired with it, there’s nothing classic about this tartare despite its restaurant’s heavy French bistronomy influences. It gets finished with a cool dollop of crème fraiche and a scatter of crispy onions.
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For the veg-heads: Beet “tartare”, Little Park
Chef Andrew Carmellini ignores meat entirely for the version at his vegetable-focused downtown eatery. Whole-roasted beets get the same hand-chopping treatment as their meaty brethren before being soaked in a dill and red wine vinegar marinade. Combine that with a tangy horseradish cream, crispy rye crumble, and smoked trout roe and you won’t even miss the protein.
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