For a Cooler Summer Escape in France, Head to This Gorgeous New Hotel on the Country’s Northern Coast

At Les Bassans in Brittany, travelers will find cool sea air, Nordic-inspired spa rituals, and unfussy hospitality from the French-owned Fontenille Collection.

The seaside Les Bassans has a pitched roof and is surrounded by green landscaping

The seaside Les Bassans is set within the former Manoir du Sphinx hotel.

Photo by Tiphaine Caro

The vibe: A historic waterfront villa with sea views from every room

Location: 67 chemin de la messe, Perros-Guirec, France | View on Google Maps

Rates: From $300

The Afar take

Originally built as a private home in the 1920s and run as a hotel for decades, this French seaside villa in Perros-Guirec was restored and reborn as Les Bassans, the first property in Brittany from the French-owned Fontenille Collection. Although it opened in June, Les Bassans was years in the making for hoteliers Frédéric Biousse and Guillaume Foucher, who scoured the peninsula before they landed on this historic retreat on the Pink Granite Coast along the English Channel.

The bones of the hotel feel anchored to the destination’s history while the interiors have a timeless style with contemporary comforts that travelers expect. The restoration spotlights original features, like slate roofs and decorative granite cornerstones, along with modern additions, including dark wood-paneled walls, mosaic floors, and brass fixtures. With waterfront views from every room, Les Bassans gives travelers a new reason to explore this northern slice of Brittany’s windswept cliffs and dramatic tides. And given that this is one of only a few upscale boutique properties in the area, and the most recent, it’s likely to be a draw for its other services too: a sea-to-table restaurant and sea-facing spa with Nordic bath, saunas, and treatments by French clean-beauty brand Alaena.

Who’s it for?

Les Bassans is an ideal spring and summer destination for nature lovers and travelers who struggle with the heat and humidity in France’s more well-known seaside destinations. I count myself among these travelers after one too many uncomfortably warm summers in southern France’s Luberon. Outdoor temperatures here rarely exceed the mid- to high 70s°F, and the water, at an average of 57°F, makes it well-suited for cold plunges. (Follow the locals—they’re all doing it!) Connecting rooms, garden space, and a swimmable beach a five-minute walk away make it ideal for families. Les Bassans is not for travelers who expect more formal service—the staff is young and very relaxed—or for those who want recreational equipment to be provided, such as bicycles and swim gear. The on-site, sea-facing spa, with its Nordic bath and sauna and two treatment rooms, wasn’t finished when I stayed at the hotel, but it’s likely to draw wellness seekers.

White guest room at Les Bassans, with modern furnishings and art (including small sculptures) and floor-to-ceiling windows facing sea

All guest rooms at Les Bassans have views of the sea.

Photo by Tiphaine Caro

The location

Brittany, home to 3.4 million people across approximately 13,000 square miles, is most associated with the scenic beaches and wild landscapes along its southern and western coasts. That’s what I had in mind when I boarded the train from Gare Montparnasse in Paris, where I’ve lived for 19 years, to Guincamp station. But as the taxi passed through small towns and hydrangea-lined roundabouts en route to Les Bassans, I sensed there was something particular about this stretch of the Côtes d’Armor department.

As the Fontenille cofounder Frédéric Biousse puts it, “The way the light hits in Perros-Guirec is very special.” That has almost everything to do with its location on the dramatic coastline of pink-hued granite boulders, which give the Pink Granite Coast its name. Just off the coast is the Seven Islands (Sept-Îles) nature reserve, home to one of France’s largest seabird colonies, including puffins and gannets. (For those who want to see them, the hotel can recommend bout tour companies in nearby Perros-Guirec.)

Coastside large granite rocks with small lighthouse in distance

Large granite rocks line the coast near Les Bassans.

Photo by Tiphaine Caro

These hulking rock formations around Perros-Guirec and nearby Ploumanac’h—one of only three sites in the world with them—are composed of a rare type of feldspar-rich pink granite, sculpted by sea and wind, that intensifies in color depending on the time of day. The combination of pink stone, green vegetation, and blue-gray sea creates a painterly palette unlike elsewhere in France. You’ll see visitors sailing off the coast, bird (and dolphin) watching by boat, picnicking on the rocks of Ploumanac’h, and trekking the Sentier des Douaniers, a two-mile, primarily flat footpath along Brittany’s coastal G34 long-distance hiking trail.

Given Perros-Guirec’s history as a holiday destination for Parisian and British travelers since the late 19th century (when railway lines extended beyond Brest into nearby Lannion, turning the town into a chic coastal escape), plus as a go-to for thalassotherapy (marine spa treatments), you can expect to share beaches and trails with both groups of vacationers.

For the opening year of 2025, the property will be closed seasonally from November to March.

Les Bassans gives travelers a new reason to explore this northern slice of Brittany’s windswept cliffs and dramatic tides.

The rooms

Each of the 25 pared-back rooms and suites is done up in neutral, sandy tones with fabrics from Pierre Frey and Caravane Paris. Ceramics by local artist Valentine Benoist and contemporary furnishings honor the local design vernacular from the Breton design house Ker. The bathrooms are spacious and well-lit and are decorated with mosaics made from local marine sediments.

To be sure, the setting does most of the decorative heavy lifting here. As a result, some rooms have balconies, others bay windows, but all face the water and rows of blue, green, and violet hydrangeas. While all rooms come with sea views, what varies is their orientation: due north toward Rouzic island; due east with views of the sun rising and falling on Trestrignel beach; or due west toward the Sentier des Douaniers. Room No. 4, for example, is set up with the bed jutting into the bow window, like the prow of a ship.

The food and drink

I found it hard to pry my eyes away from the water, which is visible from almost every angle in the dining room. But 26-year-old chef Paul Dumez’s seafood-forward menu offered a welcome distraction. Fish and vegetables sourced from small local producers might include marinated or smoked oysters, clams, grilled fish, and plenty of buckwheat galettes and chips. The drinks menu runs the gamut from the owners’ Fontenille Collection wines (produced in the South of France) and Breton colas to cocktails that combine seaweed, citrus fruit, and local spirits. A daily breakfast buffet in the main dining room is well-stocked, protein-heavy, and big on local dairy.

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Staff and service

The team is young and motivated—if still ironing out a few first-month wrinkles. On my visit, some small but noticeable details were missed at check-in, such as the fact that the hotel was still awaiting bottle openers (though you could borrow one from the bar) or that garden drinks service wasn’t yet in place and I needed to request libations from the bar. These kinds of early-stage hiccups are likely to smooth out as the hotel comes into its own. True to all Fontenille properties, however, the welcome is warm—especially to four-legged guests. Dogs stay free and are treated to thoughtful amenities, including an in-room dog bed, ceramic bowls, and a goodie bag filled with toys and treats.

Accessibility

The hotel has an accessible entrance and elevator access to all floors. Reaching the outdoor loungers and garden may present a challenge for travelers with reduced mobility. At the time of opening, the path to reach these areas was rocky and upaved and included uneven steps.

Getting there

The most direct option is to take a high-speed train from Gare Montparnasse in Paris to Lannion (approximately 3 hours). From there, the hotel is a 15-minute drive away by rental car (which I would recommend for exploring the region) or taxi. The hotel can arrange a transfer service in advance for an additional fee.

Based in Paris since 2006, Lindsey Tramuta is a culture and travel journalist and the author of several books about Paris, including The New Paris, The New Parisienne: The Women & Ideas Shaping Paris, and most recently, The Eater Guide to Paris.
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